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How to replace the printbed on the Da Vinci Pro, swappable!

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In this topic i'll give you a step by step guide on how to remove the printbed in a Da Vinci Pro 3D printer, and how i made mine to be easily swappable.
Everything is of course at your own risk.

Tools needed:
1: Cutting pliers
2: Philips head screw driver
3: Small tiewraps
4: T10 Torx screwdriver
5: Some heatshrink or a marker
6: Sharp scissors

Step 1:
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Jog your printbed to lowest position, and unscrew the 4 corners. (T10 torx)
Then put it in the highest position.

Step 2:
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Remove the back cover, using the T10 torx.

Step 3:
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CAREFULLY cut the tiewraps place by XYZ. Remove the plug with blue wires gently and the red/black on the right hand side. Again be GENTLE. The connectors are not the sturdiest you'll ever find on a PCB. Unscrew the wires for the heatplate and then remove the ferrite clamp on the loom. You can put that aside for now.

Step 4:
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Gently work the loom through the hole into the chamber of the printer.

Step 5:
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Unclip this connector, underneath your printbed. Now your printbed should be completely free and you can take it out of the printer with the loom still attached to the printbed.
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(I was forced to take it out due to a print not coming off.

Step 6:
Undo the loom of it's plastic 'shell' (i'm not sure about what's it called, so if anybody knows the word let me know :))
This might require you to cut some tiewraps. Just be carefull when doing so.

Step 7:
As you have marked one of the cables, you can now cut this cable and then connect it with a connector of choice, as long as it's completely isolated. Cut through with cutting pliers, then to strip them, use some sharp scissors and make some rotations on where you'd like to strip the wires. This is easier then with cutting pliers and will leave the internals intact.
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While doing this, make sure that you put the 'female' side of the connectors on both wires going to the mainboard. And then use the 'male' part of the connector on the printbed sides of the wires.

Step 8:
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Place back the plastic shell of the wireloom.

Step 9:
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Work the side to be connected to the main board back through the same hole.

Step 10:
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Reconnect the wires as they should. Remember which cable you marked and where to place it on the connector for the heating elements. I placed one tiewrap just before the ferrite clamp so i'm sure it's stuck and won't be slamming around.

Step 11:
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Reconnect this plug.

Step 12:
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Place your printbed and connect the newly placed connectors.

Step 13:
Turn on your printer and lower the printbed.

Step 14:
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Screw back the printbed holders and don't forget to thread the blue wires through the screws on the back side of the printbed.

That's it!

Now if a print is stuck, you can quickly change the printbed and start printing again, while taking your time to carefully remove the stuck object. Also this allows you to switch between alu/glass/other printbeds to meet your requirements.

Since polarity of the heater wires does not matter, you really should have a fully insulated connector on both ends that come from the control board to make sure they can't short if the power is mistakenly turned on while the bed is unplugged.

My printer had two black boots on the wires, the replacement bed I received as warranty also had two black boots. Power can flow either way, the heater doesn't care.

Comment has been deleted

Ah ok, i was thinking that but not 100% sure and didn't want to take a chance so i marked them

Your suggestion for the 2 fully isolated wires is logical as well in that scenario. I've changed the tutorial accordingly :) Thanks for the advice!