XYZPrinting Da Vinci 1.0 PRO troubleshooting

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As I was one of the first owners of this printer, I found out a lot of things not mentioned in the manual of this printer. Some of them really stupid, some of them really an issue for the people at XYZPrinting to work on. However, I found a solution for almost any problem now. Here are my tips.


  • Calibration returns FAIL
    If the calibration returns fail, but all 4 points are measured, the bed is so much out of level, It can't do the right measurements. Turn the knobs clockwise 7 quarters and try again. If the result is still a FAIL, go counterclockwise 14 quarters and try again. Repeat this in bigger increments until you get a result and hints on how to calibrate on the screen of the printer.
    if less then four points are measured, the measuringpoint left of the nozzle is dirty, or the last meassured point is dirty. Clean it with rubbing alcohol and try again.
    If you tried all this and still get a fail, something else is wrong. Try contacting XYZPrinting and ask for help there. In the mean time you can calibrate manualy (see bottom of this post).
    Reaction of XYZPrinting: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=Q3Or2cpvueQ

  • When using non XYZPrinting filament, XYZWare says cartridge empty or not enough filament to complete the job
    This was a problem in one of the early firmware releases and this problem is solved. If you have this problem, make sure you have the latest firmware on your printer.

  • Ticking noise while printing (multiple problems possible)
    1) When you take a quick look in the printer while printing, you will see the feeder cable is slamming against the top of the printer. The only way to stop this happening is by doing a modification to your printer, but if you don't, the feeder cable will damage. This is a design problem, so people of XYZprinting, If you are reading this, provide us with a solution from your side please. Read the comments from Bromego (Dec 14 2015) on this topic for a solution.
    Reaction of XYZPrinting (You can see their cable is on an angle):
    2) When you gently hold the filament going in to the printer and you feel the ticking also in the filament, the problem is comming from the extruder. I happen to have this problem only in the first layer of my print. After the first layer, the ticking sound stops. Some other people reported that the ticking continued the whole print. I don't know what the problem is then, but you should contact XYZPrinting for a sollution on this one. (if in the future flowrate control would be build in into the printer, this might solve the problem).
    Reaction from XYZPrinting: Clean the load filament motor gear:
    3) Look inside the printer at the upper left side. There is a plastic guard on the aluminum frame to protect the cables from getting cut. This guard comes loose and hits the side of the printer with a loud clicking sound. Fasten it and the ticking noise is over.

  • SD Card Error
    1) There is a SD card slot in the printer as memory for the printfile XYZWare sends to the printer. Sometimes the XYZWare software is not able to write it's file to the SD card. Switch the printer off and on again, now it will problably be fixed. If the problem persist, remove the backpanel of the printer and remove the SD card carefully. Re-insert the card and try again.
    2) After the firmware update 1.2.3 some users report they don't have this issue anymore. This might be coincidence, or.......
    3) If nothing works and the error repeats... See the comment of sfraden at December 28 2015. He has the tip to replace the micro SD card for a new one from a better brand. I have done this myself and my problems are gone!

  • Firmware update fail (Screen says to call support)
    A scary message, but there is a fix. Switch off the printer and press and hold the up and down button while switching the machine on again. This brings the printer in it's bootloader and now you are able to try the firmware upgrade again. If the problem persist, remove the backpanel of the printer and remove the SD card carefully. Re-insert the card and try again. Now repeat above steps.

  • ABS not sticking to printbed at 90 degrees Celcius (highest temperature)
    1) Use a good tape on the aluminum printer bed. I use Kapton tape and that works extremely good. There are also other good tapes, like the one provided by XYZPrinting when you buy the printer, but in my opinion, Kapton is the best tape you can use.
    2) You read a lot about glue stick, don't you? But not every glue stick is good. For example here in the Netherlands we have a brand called Pritt (biggest supplier of gluesticks here), there gluesticks are no good for 3D printing because they are to moist for this application. I have had very good results with UHU gluestick. You can buy them around the world and they are really the best I have found so far. If the glue gets to hard on the printbed, use a moist, warm towel and place that on the printbed for a few minutes. The glue becomes soft and can be removed easily.

  • top of the print bed comming loose.
    While I was removing some tape from the print bed, I noticed that the top layer of the aluminum bed came loose from the actual bed itself. Then I saw what caused some layer movement in my prints. This was due to the fact that the top of the print bed could easily be moved while printing. The solution was a simple self made holder at the front and back of the plate that holds the plate in place. You can't do it from the sides because the printhead can reach the sides and could hit your holder, but at the front and back you can safely mount something to the bed to hold it in place.

  • Printer counts meters from installed cartridge while using external filament
    When you are using external filament, you MUST remove the original cartridge with Da Vinci filament, otherwise the counter will count down the meters filament you are using as if you are using the cartridge. The fun thing is that your own printer settings for the filament are being used, so for example, the installed cartridge is PLA and you are using ABS then the printer knows your heat settings are from ABS, but still it counts down the meters from the PLA cartridge.
    (if you just remove the chip from the cartridge, the thing doesn't know there is a cartridge installed anymore)

  • Settings on the printer don't match settings in the software
    Since the 1.2.3 firmware, you can't set unreachable temperature settings in the printer anymore, like 120C for the bed. This was possible only in previous firmware versions.
    Still, the settings are a bit odd. You can set the bed temperature, the nozzle temperature and the unload temperature, but when giving the printer a printjob from XYZWare for Pro, the settings from the software are used. Then I thought these settings are for printing with Microsoft 3D Builder. In that software you can't set temperatures for your printer, but the printer can be controlled from 3D Builder. Funny enough this also doesn't work, because both the nozzle and the bed won't be heated when giving a print job from 3D Builder.

  • Not being able to place normal filament at the back of the printer
    While the Da Vinci 1.0 Pro is an open filament printer, you don't get a spool holder for placing a filament spool near the printer. Therefore I designed one, you can download the thing here: http://www.thingiverse.com/thing:1234196
    Make sure to read the instructions AND to remove the top cover of the printer prior to installing the holder. U can place the cover back after it is installed. Da Vinci 1.0 Pro users can use the .3w file I provided, but only if you use ABS plastic. If you use PLA, slice the part yourself.

  • Some users reported problems with the Feeder Engine on the printer, making ticking noises or having problems with parts that are not aligned correct.
    Thingiverse user Thaamike received a Dutch language manual how to get to the Feeder Engine of the printer.
    He uploaded this document to Thingiverse. You can find the link in the comments, or attached to this topic.
    Also, some other users replaced their hot ends and Bowden extruders for E3d V6 kits. They have great results with that. As soon as there is a link with instructions, I will place the link here.

  • Manual printer bed leveling
    If, for some reason, you want to level the bed manualy, this is not very difficult to do if you follow this guideline. Before you do so, place tape over your printbed (blue painters tape for PLA, Kapton Tape for ABS), then:
    1) Go to the menu of the printer, point the cursor at UTILITIES and press OK
    2) Go to Z OFFSET and press OK
    3) Set the Z OFFSET at 1.35 and stay in this menu
    4) very gently slide the printhead over the bed WITHOUT FORCE. If the nozzle hits the bed, use the thumb screw to lower the bed. Make sure you can freely move the nozzle over the whole service area of the print bed.
    5) Take an 80 grams piece of paper and place the nozzle above the front thumb screw
    6) Slide the paper between the nozzle and the print bed and turn the thumbscrew to raise the bed. When you feel the paper having friction, you are done.
    7) Repeat this for the other thumb screws. Place the nozzle above them and do the same procedure.
    8) After you have finished all three thumb screws, repeat from step 6 one more time. The leveling of the thumb screws in the back also adjusted the front just a little bit, thats why you do all screws a second time.
    9) You are done. The leveling is complete. Press the HOME button in the right top corner to go to the top level menu.
    10) because you now can't place glue on the print bed, you have to manualy lower the bed with the JOG MODE in the UTILITIES menu. Use the Z axis 010mm to lower the bed. If this won't work, you first have to select HOME AXES in the same UTILITIES menu to let the printer determine it's homing position.


at 2-february-2016 XYZPrinting released software version
This version includes the option to use Gcode, made by Cura or Slic3r. This means we no longer MUST use XYZWare for Pro to slice our prints, but we still have to use this program to upload the Gcode to the printer.

  • Cura
    After my first tests with Cura, I found out that the sliced Gcode imports perfectly in XYZWare for pro and gets uploaded to the printer very fast (faster then I was used to). When the file is in the printer, the printer raises the bed and starts heating up, but then something strange happend. I had the temperature in Cura set to 240C for the nozzle and 45C for the bed (Nylon settings). The printer heated both the nozzle and the bed at the same time (never seen that before) but at 45C for the bed, it didn't stop. It went all the way up to 90C and at that time the nozzle was 200C and there it stopped.
    What ever I did, I couldn't get the temperatures right, so I had to cancel this print job because my Nylon got stuck in the nozzle.
    (I will continue to try to get Cura working...)

  • Slic3r
    WhoopWhoop... Succes :-)
    I sliced the same part as I did in Cura and I gave it the same settings. I made the Gcode with Slic3r and then I uploaded it to the printer via XYZWare for Pro. The bed raised to the top, the temperatures went up (one at a time, as I am used to in XYZWare) and then the printer started printing.
    Everything is faster, the slicing, the uploading, I was flabbergasted. Even the temperature went down after the first layer, exactly as I told Slic3r to do. After this experiment, I am in love with Slic3r, and I must not forget to mention, the display of the machine keeps working and the estimated time is the same rubish as it was before :-)

Thanks XYZPrinting for this great update, or may we call it an upgrade. This makes the printer so much better then it allready was.

The guys at XYZPrinting (sometimes) give great support and also the users in this group share a lot of perfect information, so I am happy with this excelent printer. No other printer in this pricepoint beats it when it comes to quality.

If you also have issues with this printer you are willing to share, please do so.
Sorry if my English is not that good, I am Dutch.

Happy Printing.

Da Vinci 1.0 PRO filament holder Large spools

Hallo Brian,
Thanks for your articles.
After playing 2 years with a davinci Mini, I bought a Pro 3in1 2 weeks ago.
I noticed that the „auto“ (assisted) calibrate was not repeatable. Many times I needed 3-6 iterations. Repeating the autocal and the message was again „not leveveled“.
Very carefully and intensively clleaning and brushing the contacts on the extruder and the bed and especially as last step clean them with wd-40 make things better. However doing a manual calibrate afterwards changes everything again...
My question is, how important is that in auto calibrate the bed and the nozzle are heated. In manual calibration (via the z-offset menu point) they are not heated.

Question: do I have to recalibrate when I change from ABS to PLA and viceversa?

With XYZ brand filament ABS and PLA the results are OK. With a third party ABS filament I have no good results. It looks that the filament is not transported equally, especially the first layer either does not come out or will not stick to my blue tape. Also irregularities in higher layers.

I also own a Pro 3 in 1 for about for about 2 months now. The auto leveling work the first week and hasnt work since. I tried everything and just gave up, been doing Manual ever since. I havnt had any problems with filaments, I used XYZ ABS, 3D Solutech PLA and ABS and Hatchbox ABS. However saying that I did add 2 fans to cool my PLA prints.



With that bracket it lets you use a zip-tie to hold bracket and fan in place. I have wired it with a external power supply. Reason I still have a warranty and if I have to send if back for repair I just cut the zip-tie and fans are off and its back to factory spec.

Da Vinci Pro Extruder Fan support
Da Vinci Pro bracket for fans
by Giet

Thanks for your answer.
From the beginning I had problems with auto calibrate. Sometimes up to 8 iterations before it said "Perfect level".
Lately I noticed that when the auto calibrate goes to the last point (Left/back) the quick release lever of the printing module hits the back frame of the printer causing the extruder module to move up a little. I have not seen this before, or did not notice it. I cannot see anything wrong or moved in the frame, also I have not done anything inside the machine except mounting the laser engraver once. The printing module looks as if it mounted OK. As far as I can just the homing sensors also look mounted OK and working

When I calibrate manually, I move the extruder sequentially above the 3 adjusting screws and adjust them (approx 3 iterations), even then the distance is not equal overall over the bed. IMO this means that my bed is not straight. The question is how straight is acceptable?

My other problem is warping. I am using 3M blue tape. I noticed that the warping does pull up the object from the tape but pulls the tape from the be. IMO I have good bonding of the object to the tape but the glue of the tape is not strong enough?????
Printing with rafts (created by Simplify3D) the rafts are coming up, pulling up the tape....

I have now done one test with an UHU glue stick directly on the bed. The first layer is very squeezed, but still comes loose.

I am glad for any suggestion.


I use a pro too

I never use the calibration
When i start a print i dop a test print and set the bed level 10 - 15 degrees higher
(Before i start i lower the bed manually )
When the print start i turn of fthne machine and do the rest with a buisiness card!

Brian. your insights were very helpful. And your english is very good too. for what its worth, I found that my printer was constantly failing the calibration process, because for some reason my Z offset was off. I used your process to get the Zoffset close, then calibration process ran fine. How it happened I dont know. but I never would have thought of checking it without looking at this thread

Hi, I'm hoping you can help me out because I am quickly becoming frustrated. I recently bought and began using my da Vinci 3D 3-in-1 printer. I finally got the calibration down and after a lot of printing errors, I was able to print a demo of the heart pendent it comes with. it was successful and I was happy, but when I tried to print another model (a PS4 controller stand) it get barely past the first label then it warps and all the filament gets clogged around the nozzle to which I have to cancel everything and clean the filament off.

I have turned off the heated bed thinking too much heat it warping it, I even tried lowering the temperature on the nozzle but it won't let me. I have gone through the same model 3 times but each time its the same failure. I even adjusted the Z-access plate but nothing seem to be working. Can you please offer me some suggestion? I was hoping this printer would make up with the connectivity issues I kept having with my da Vinci Jr 1.0

HI Brian
I have the same printer and I want to use a different slicer like Cura or Slic3r, what start and end Gcode do you use in slic3r to get your prints to work?

Hello everone I have damaged my cable that goes into the nozzle (the white one with the 14 pins.) I get no response from XYZ Printing so can tell someone me what the name of the cable is so that i can order it elsewhere?

Please let me know

Hi Brian,

i need your help.

I cant print anymore. I can start printing and the first layers looks fine, but then the filament flow goes down and finally the nozzle goes on, but there is no more filament.

I got a Da Vinci 1.0 pro this week and i successfully finished 2 demo prints and 1 own print. So ich still using the original yellow xyzprinting ABS filament.
But then i tried to print a very small object and the printed object started to stick at the nozzle. After this, i unloaded the filament and cleaned the nozzle with the little nozzle-wire. I also tried to clean the feeding role.

Now i tried to read much about troubleshooting with 3d printing and the da vinci printer.
I would say, that i got melted filament in the nozzle. But i don't know how to fix it. When the filament stops flowing, i can not unload the filament at the first time. I had to run the process at least twice, until the filament comes out.


Take a look here.
On this website you can find almost all my video's regarding maintenance and tinkering the Da Vinci Pro 1


Hi Brian,

Thanks for all the info above. I've got what I think is a serious issue with my brand new Da Vinci 1.0A......fresh out of the box, with all the packing & shipping materials removed, when I power it on, the extruder head moves all the way to the far right rear position, actually aft of the correct parking position. It should park over the tray, but mine travels beyond that and hits the right rear stepper motor where it stops and starts trying to snap the belt. Is there a fix for this that I can do, or am I going to have to ship this thing back to XYZ? I've got two other Da Vinci 1.0's and didn't have any issues with those out the box. Any comments or help on this would be appreciated.

It sounds like your Y-axis limit sensor isn't working. In the left-rear of your printer there should be an optical sensor which a plastic tab on the left Y-axis carriage should enter when it reaches the rear position. Can you tell if the tab is properly entering the sensor? If so, you may have faulty wiring or a faulty sensor. If you are lucky maybe something is just out-of-place and you can adjust it.

Another thought: sometimes the Y axis is known to get out-of-place in shipping. The easy fix for this is to manually pull the Y axis to the front of the printer. If one side touches the forward stop before the other side, then you can force the side that isn't touching by pulling hard on it. Carefully, of course.

Hi Brian, i think you're a pro on the da vinci 1.0 pro. :-)

I bought the pro a week ago and first i had no problems, leveling was very fine and i could do a perfect calibration.

After printing some parts i want to prepare the printer for the next print-procedure (after cool down and 6 hours off-time).

So i did re-calibrate the print bed and everything was fine.

I wanted to print your designed spool-holder, but the extruder crashed on my print bed and destroyed my kapton layer, thx god there no visible scratches on the alu-bed after cleaning with aceton.

So tried to manually calibrate the thing, z-offset was at 1.75 and i tried to set it down on 1.35 and did the manually calibration procedure.

Is this the right way?

Looking forward for your reply!

Thx and best regards,

Hi Mike,
Thanks for the nice words :-) Appreciate it.

I never use the automatic calibration anymore because that fails to often. The manual way works perfect and really gives you a better calibration. I made a video about it where I explain everything.

Hope this shows you the exact way I level my bed. Good luck printing !!!

I've recently bought a Davinci 1.0 pro and wanted to use third party filament and due to the space available around my printer it would be difficult to mount the external filament holder.

So I investigated putting the spool inside the rear of the printer ..... I bought a reel of 750g filament instead of 1kg as this is on a thinner reel

I then made up the reel supports I found on thingiverse (can find a link at the moment) these sat at the bottom of the cartridge slot and the reel sat on them and it turn on the ball races just fine, I've printed several things so far without a problem.

Brian, Hoping you can help me. I, well my son, has a Da Vinci Junior and despite most feedback we love iT. However currently we have an issue whereby it states "printer busy" after it slices a files and send to print. I can find reference to this on google but no solution.

Hi Bobbob02 and son,
I wish I could help you, but the Da Vinci Junior is a complete different printer from the Da Vinci Pro machine.
It seems like the printer is busy with something, which might be communication on the serial port (over USB, that is). Have you recently updated the firmware or slicer software? This can be the reason...

I hope you find the problem and find a workaround for it.

I had the same problem, the probe wasn't able to touch the front right corner of the plate by a few millimeters. I by watching the machine from the top i saw that the rails where the extruder mounts on weren't parallel to the plate, this meant that when it would come all the way to the front the left side would touch but the right wouldn't causing the problem. I solved the problem by unplugging one side of the rails from the tractor belt, positioning them parallel to the plate, then mounting the belt again. I think the belts were just off from one another by 1 or 2 dents.
After this easy fix I had no further problem with calibration.

TL;DR take the tractor belt off from one side of the extruder then mount it back making sure the extruder rails remain parallel to the build plate.

Thanks for good advises, while sitting here with a 1 hour old machine :-)

Would you be able to share your profile settings for Da vinci 1.0 pro in Slic3r ??

I could use some help. I have a pro and needed to change the nozzle up by the filament feeder. I got it fixed. but while I was dismantling the printer to get to the nozzle, I dislodged the sticky pad sensor from the top door sensor, and now it just displays top door open, close top door on the readout. It still prints, but you can't get an idea of what percentage is completed, time and etc. on the display panel. If anyone has a good photo of where I am supposed to attach the wired sticky pad, I would be forever in their debt.
I also have the issue of the calibrate fail......I have tried everything and nothing has worked. I am getting it to print, so I guess it is not a big deal, just irksome.
Thanks for any advice, Stacy S.

The sticky pad is actually the WiFi antenna. The top door sensor is a micro switch in the U shaped black plastic cover. I actually detached the switch from my cover and taped it in the always closed position then stashed it in a corner of the printer.

This is a great solution for the clicking noises: http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/282347555325?ssPageName=STRK:MESELX:IT&_trksid=p3984.m1555.l2649

It made a huge difference to our printing quality ...and of course the clicking is eliminated!

Looks like a good upgrade to the extruder clicking. However it is important to clearly identify the source of the clicking before you start tearing a machine apart. I have had two Pros with clicking noises both of which were bearing issues NOT extrusion related.

hello guys.
I need your help!

Today i bought a Da Vinci Pro 1.0... after 10 prints... i still have big issues.

I'm Using XYZware Pro (latest version)... with big quality problems!

please take a look at this photos.. and please help me :'(



So I recently received my Da Vinci Printer 1.0 Pro and it won't let me print models unless I update the software of the printer which fails anytime I do so. I've tried taking the SD card out and putting it back, I've haven't replaced it yet though. Any tips to get past the failing firmware update? My current firmware on my printer which I received yesterday is vers. 1.03 I believe. Thanks

Have you already downloaded and installed the latest version of XYZware Pro?

Yes i did, and I just fixed it due to the help of another forum. What I did to fix the firmware was to try a different usb cable and I ran the XYZ Pro software as a administrator, and that allowed the firmware to update.

Glad you got it to work, and thank you for posting the resolution -- it may help someone else in the future.

hey guys. I've got a 1.0 pro and having calibration issues.
when I got it about 3 weeks back i ran calibration fine and it's been printing great, but this week I noticed that my bed seemed a little off. I could see the first layer on my prints was better at one side than the other.
So ran calibration and FAIL. cleaned everything.. FAIL. I can't get it past the first corner.

SO I did the manual calibration following the instructions on here (thanks Brian for the FAQ)
But I'm confused over the Z offset, what it's doing and why change it?.
when I go to that option mine says 1.69
I changed it to 1.34 which was the closest I could get to what the guide said. Then did the manual calibration and when I select home all axis the nozzle ends up a fraction lower than the print bed. I didn't attempt to print like this.
I moved it back to 1.69 and it seems to be working OK so far.
my guide line at the edge of the print bed cause some clicking, but the rest of the print seemed fine.

But I don't feel as though I've done the calibration right as there was nothing in the guide about putting the z offset back. so can anyone clear up what I've done wrong?

I'm sure you will get a million responses on this...
when I do the manual calibration, I use a business card.
I usually home the axes first, then go to z offset.
When the hot end moves forward and stops, that when you can grab it and slide it around your print bed by hand. Just grab it and move it. I will start in the center, move the hot end by hand to the center of the bed, then slide a business card between the nozzle and the bed. I want to feel it, but not to tight. If the gap is wrong then I adjust the z offset accordingly. Then go to all 4 corners. Between the z offset and the bed leveling screws I can get it pretty close, almost perfect.
My bed is warped like a taco front to rear. The left and right edges are higher than the middle of my bed by about a half a thousands or so. So I set my z offset so it's correct in the center, where I will be printing.
Make sense?

OK thanks. I wasn't looking at the z offset to set the bed height. I was tightening the bed leveling screws to give me more clearace.

Just ordered by DaVinci Pro last week. Since receiving it too many problems to count. Took it out of the box the hinge to the door was broke off, not a huge deal but annoying. Plugged everything in and set up xyz ware printed something it went well. Then I updated the firmware to 1.3.3 and BOOM everything started breaking. I can no longer connect via wifi. When i plug my pro directly into the computer via usb it causes xyz ware to lock up (did this on two different computers). I was restoring defaults on the printer and it just hung and is stuck saying please wait. I think everything would have been fine if i didnt update firmware. Can anyone help or share if they are experiencing problems with this new firmware?

Hi Brhodes8,
I have installed the new firmware to see what happens and for me no things have changed that much.
It's sad to hear you have had so much problems with your printer. I have had that to on my first two machines and only the 3rd was really perfect.I had to send them back and I think you should do so to.

When you have a good working machine, you will love it.

Totally agree there! I have about 650 hours on my 6 month old Da Vinci Pro 1.0 and (with regular maintenance), it's a lot of fun to work with. Best $500 spent in the past year!

I am having major problems with printing. I had to switch filaments when the cartridge was low. I am using PLA filament. When I tried to load new PLA filament, nothing came out of the nozzle. I tried several times with no results. I also tried cleaning nozzle, but no effect. I tried printing and nothing came out. I have tried 2 days and no results. Any thoughts? Jud

Looks like you have a big clog in your nozzle of the printer.
Take a look at this video I made about it to see how to solve this:

How do I remove it so that I can clean it thoroughly?

On the printer go to the menu and select Load Filament, then set your settings for the nozzle to extremely hot (240C).
The printer now warms up and you can pull back the filament out of the hot-end when the printer is completely warmed up. Now let the printer cool down again, and you can remove the carriage.

If you have never removed the carriage, you must squeeze the handle upwards to unlock the carriage before you can take it out.

Good luck unclogging the nozzle. It's a delicate thing to do, but get used to it, you will have to do it from time to time, no matter what printer you own. Once you have done it a few times, it only takes you about 5 minutes.

I tried a suggestion from nuggyblake. They were suggestions leading up to what you suggested. Thank goodness it wasn't a bad clog. I am very leary to do actual repairs on the printer, but will hopefully try your suggestion so that I can make sure the nozzle is really clean. I would feel more comfortable if XYZ would have an instruction manual with a parts list for home repair. Definitely can't imagine shipping the printer for repairs.
I was amazed that it would get clogged: especially when it is so new. I don't like how hard it is to contact XYZ with 3 day reply window and no availability especially on weekends. It is great having support from you and other 3D printers. It keeps me from giving up.
Thank you.

Hi Roberto,

In XYZWare for pro you don't have control over your infill to outline overlap but you can set the extrusion multiplier. The only thing in this slicer you can do is increase the extrusion multiplier a little, like 10% and see if this helps you.

I don't know about other slicers because I don't use them, but I know that in Simplify3D there is an option to give the exact setting for the outline overlap. I normally have this set to 15% and that gives me a good bonding versus no visible infill marks on the outside of the print.

Good luck with this setting and happy printing,

Good to know - I wasn't aware Simplify3D was compatible with the DaVinci pro. I'll give this a go when I try a new slicer.

UPDATE: I set my extrusion temperature +15C (to 225C) and the prints are coming out perfect again using XYZware

Good to hear it works !!!

225C for ABS is a pretty normal temperature to work with.
If the prints look good, then all's going fine.

Happy printing.

Comment has been deleted

Hi Brian,

Have had my DaVinci PRO for 2 months now and have had great results - I refer to your post whenever I run into issues. Very informative, thank you.

Recently I completed a long (30+ hr) print while away on vacation, and it printed perfectly. However, after returning and printing new parts, the shell/infill width seems to be too narrow to fuse properly with the adjacent layers. I'm printing black ABS at 210C nozzle and 90C printbed (same filament spool as the long print).

Things I've tried: cleaned the nozzle, adjusted the print head speed down to 20mm/s, and adjusted extrusion ratios up to 110%
Things to try: reduce layer height down from 0.3mm, increase extrusion temp, re-calibrate bed, and use Slic3r for additional control (I've been meaning to switch from XYZware to slic3r for awhile now, but want to get my printer back to printing well before doing so)

Any ideas?

Hi Brian,

i'm gonna change my hot end in my Pro for a E3D v6 hot end. Is it wise to change to a lower nozzle size like 0,3 or 0,2 instead of the 0,4 nozzle.
I print mostly ABS for now.

Thanx for your answer

If you want more fine detail, but a slower print speed, you can select the 0.3mm nozzle, but you also have to adjust some settings in the slicer as well. If you have Simplify3D, this is no problem, in other Slicers, I don't know the correct steps as I don't use them.

Going to 0.2 is not really recommended in this type of printer because the play in the X and Y axes is to big to have a real improvement. There are things you can do to minimize this but that would mean that you really have to rebuild the printer a lot.

Mine is the opposite. My pro prints great at .2mm and ok at .1mm. Im having problems with printing .3 and .4mm. I guess its part of the fun.

My Bag. I mis read the post.

Hi Otha,

He doesn't mean the layer height, but the size of the opening in the nozzle.
At the standard nozzle that comes with the printer, this is a 0.4mm nozzle. He is going to install another hot-end from E3D and then he can change his nozzles. Then he can also select a nozzle from a different size, like 0.3mm or even 0.2mm. The thinner the nozzle, the more precise the printer can print, but there is a limit to it because of the play in the carriage construction.

Hello, I am new to this group and have read through several posts but can't find what I'm looking for and hope you all can help:
Have 2 Davinci Pro 1.0 and LOVE THEM, have had ZERO issues with 90% of my prints until recently.... I purchased a couple rolls of Meltink3d ABS and am having issues with extrusion stopping... acts like a clog and the extruder strips the filament but when I heat the head up and remove the filament there is no clog, trim the line, reinstall and feed, runs clear. I restart the print and it runs just fine then just stops. What I think I've found is the filament gets a little ball on the end during retraction and then this gets stuck inside the tube just enough to bind the feeding. I have tried several things but am starting to pull my hair out....
Bed 90deg
Print temp 225 deg - will print 30-45% then Stop, 230-235 ill get 60-70% and at 240 ill get 80-90% then it stops extruding. What has printed is beautiful, crisp and very clear.
I have tried speeding up the print, 30-35mm/sec and slowing it down 20-25mm/sec with no change
I have tried reducing the retraction length to 2mm from 7 in small increments which actually seems to make it worse
I have Transferred filament to a different roll, thinking maybe the spool was binding on its post
My only successful prints have been 3-5mm high and all of the failed prints are 45-80mm high
Normally I use WYZ Abs and have NEVER had these issues (But they don't make the color I want) and run at 225-230deg

Thank you in advance for any recommendations

What slicer are you using?
Are you able to set your retraction speed, instead of the length? If so, increase the retraction speed, but keep the length at 6mm.

Also, note that some filaments just won't work that well on the Da Vinci Pro printer due to it's stock nozzle. That's why a lot of people changed it for an E3Dv6 Hot end.

Thank you, I upgraded the nozzle to the E3d, and this corrected a lot of the issues, overall a much improved piece. Recently tho, on my still stock printer I suddenly began getting "Ringing" marks on the X axis. Printer has 1845 hours on it currently. I checked everything over mechanically and can't see anything that stands out as Off or worn. Not sure where to start
Thank you

Hi. I got my Da Vinci 1.0 Pro Printer and was able to print 2 things (the preset key chains) but recently I've noticed two problems.

1) On one of my own creations, it didn't print any of the letters I had embossed onto the surface.

2) It no longer will print anything; even after many attempted calibrations, the nozzle appears to be too close to the platform and instead of releasing filament it rips up the mat I previously laid.

I'd appreciate any ideas you might have to solve these problems.

I think your Z-offset (how close the nozzle is to the bed) is way off either in one area or all over the place. In the Printer under Utilities perform the Z-offset. When the head comes over the front right side, increase the z-offset so you can gently move the head assembly with your hand over the bed (so it is clear at every point around the bed). Use a business card (or something of a similar thickness) and place it under the nozzle at the center of the bed near the front and lower or raise the Z-offset to the point that the nozzle begins to touch the paper but you can still pull the card back and forth (you should have some resistance, but not much). I would check this around the bed (center, rear right and right left). If its tight in the other areas, your bed is unlevel. Run the calibration again. I have noticed on my PRO that the bed is slightly bowed in the center (paper is bit closer). Im not sure if that is normal, so Im waiting on XYZ to respond about that.

Good luck. If you read Brian's post, you can see this Z-offset info also. Also on youtube.

Very well written exactly what one should check
it can not be normal that it be slightly bowed in the center
you can never get a good Z-Offset I swapped out the entire bed to
this bed for da Vinci 1.0A, 1.0, 1.0SA, 1.1 it is now the same
Z-offset height over the bed.

That is a good idea about changing the bed. Can you source the bed's from XYZ ? Brian had also mentioned to me about using glass. Thanks

I have had the PRO for a week and I have noticed a couple of things that helped me.

  1. In terms of the wifi, it is finicky but if you have a home network at different Ghz, but the same name, I noticed that the XYZ connected at 2.4 Ghz but not my 5Ghz. My various mac's typically connect at 5Ghz (less interference, but I could not connect to the Pro. When I manually connected to the 2Ghz (same name), I could see the PRO !
  2. Once XYZ slices it often fails to upload. I noticed if I click on Print 2 - 3 more times (over wifi), it sends.
  3. Glue on the masking tape makes it like cement ! I only use Elmers if the object has large face on bed.
  4. Brian's tip about adjusting extruder temp for PLA (after using ABS) is brilliant. Worked like a charm.
  5. I am checking calibration daily (which is probably overkill), and it fails every day. I clean nozzle and sensor with wire brush and wiper corners of bed with 99% IPA and it works great. I am checking z-offset after each calibration and move it around the bed to check it is accurate (this also makes sure bed actually is level. I have noticed that aluminum bed is very slightly higher (bowed in center,), but unless you are as anal as me, I doubt you would notice it.

Thanks Brian. So far so good

Hi nuggyblake,
Great to hear you are busy with your printer.
The calibration is a thing that drives a lot of people nuts. I calibrate my printer manualy (in Z offset mode) and I do this only once a month or so. When correctly calibrated, I only check calibration again when I notice things going wrong, which is almost never.

Good luck printing.

Thanks for that. I have a tendency to be too cautious. I will do the manual calibration as you suggest once a week at first and see how it is. I see that you recommend kapton tape, I was going to try PEI (it is on my Prusa and its amazing). Do you think this is too much ? Should I stick to tape for the PRO ?

There are more types of adhesion plates out there. Kapton is just one type that works. PEI, BuildTak and PrintinZ are others. They all have some particular benefits and downsides. PEI is perfect for both ABS and PLA and also NGEN and PETG work well on it. I think there is no real downside for using PEI no the Da Vinci Pro.

I stick with Kapton for the next coming months because I happen to have more then 20 sheets and I want to use them before I buy something else.

Hey all
I have tried adhesion plates of various kinds BuildTak, Tape and gluesticks but the one that works best is the PEI sheet is available in 0.8 mm and 1.0 mm.
And a warning hairspray and other spray stuf dont belong in a mechanical machine, it will just sit anywhere and destroy the 3D printer faster.

Getting another da vinci pro tomorrow as first one was faulty after 2 days,

The xyz software is buggy I tried to transfer an object in gcode from cura whenever I insert it into xyz software it stops responding on both my laptops is anyone else having this problem

When selecting an stl it opens fine for editing the the XYZMaker software. When it is time to print the print preview shows a blank screen. It prints fine, none-the-less.

I absolutely love my Da Vinci 1.0 Pro, I have had great success printing in both ABS and PLA. One of the recent updates to the software is a Repair Model Dialogue box. I printed the http://www.thingiverse.com/thing:1134277, this articulated robot, when I first got my printer and it printed perfect. I tried to print the same robot over the weekend and there is a small support to give the front of the face something to print on, the repair model when slicing is removing that. Is there a way off turning that feature off or is there something else removing that support?

Wip: Tiny articulated bot


I'm printing ABS again and i noticed that while printing the BRIMS look like a mess and also during printing, the nozzle hits printed ABS now and then. I have the original xyz abs cart and i set the temp to 225 and looks a little better. Anyone have an idea? I tried simpler objects and they do not have the problem. Maybe the the xyzpro slicer is the problem also?

Hi there,

I just finished my first print and the first layer seems to have melted through the tape and onto the glass, preventing easy removal. Any ideas of what went wrong and what I could do?


Most probably there is something wrong with your Z height. You should check your bed level and height before you make your next print.

To get the print from the bed, make it wet with a little bit of water (spray) and use your supplied tools to carefully take it off the bed. If you use to much force, you will damage the glass.

BTW. If you have a glass bed, I don't think you use the Da Vinci Pro printer.... Unless you changed the bed your self.

Discussion with a friend who uses glass and glue stick (on a Solidoodle) thought I could do the same on the Pro to avoid adhesion issues economically. However, I am concerned about clearances around the metal corner access for the print head Z-bed position probe. Do you know of anyone successfully putting a sheet of single thickness glass over the aluminum? If it can be done without clearance problems, is the extra thickness accommodated by adjustment of the Z-offset? What do you think?

Sorry for the beginner post above...I see that this has been discussed already. I watched, in fact, the fellow on YouTube who illustrates printing on the glass obtained from the hardware store. He uses a couple paper stationery spring clips to hold the glass down. I will try to contact him but I will also ask here, I didn't see the corner calibration process so it isn't clear if the glass or the clips get in the way of the print head as it goes through the motions, corner to corner. Any insights? Thanks.

I print on glass. In fact, I use this glass which is perfectly sized to sit on the daVinci Pro build plate: https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00QQ5Q3BI/

I use an E3D V6 hot end with no replacement for the bed leveling probe, so I do not use the printers auto-level calibration function at all. In fact, I gave up on the auto-leveling feature within a week of getting my printer because it would take me hours to get a "pass", and then if I ran the routine again as a check it would tell me I was off again. So, I manually level my bed -- takes just a couple of minutes, and I only have to do it maybe twice a month with very minor changes, if any.

Thank you BD! The amazon deal is...quite a deal and borosilicate at that...excellent.
It also occurred to me as I read your post that it is getting late here and my brain is not as sharp as it ought to be: I'd been worried about the corner calibrations as though they were happening all the time! It's just during leveling, of course, and if one does as you do, then there is no problem (even with the stock extruder, I think).
So, if you are doing like others....at worst spraying some Aqua Net or spreading some stick glue...I guess I have everything I need to know then. We do have a couple folks in the local meetup group who print on very clean glass, no glue, and maybe I will get there sometime but I am OK with the "adhesives."

If you really like the auto-level feature you can always do this when you need to:

  1. Remove glass
  2. Adjust z-offset for glass removal (-3mm)
  3. Run auto-level
  4. Readjust z-offset for glass (+3mm)
  5. Reinstall glass

I can generally print PLA onto clean glass (I use alcohol/lens wipes to remove any skin oils). For ABS I use Elmer's Washable glue stick on the glass.

And like others I use small-ish binder clips to hold my glass in place. I have a couple pieces of the glass so I can swap them and get printing again quickly while I take the used one to the sink for cleaning (every 5-10 prints depending on glue build-up).

Has anyone tried polymaker pla on the davinci pro? I was looking for ABS alternative and polymaker pla could be interesting. I never tried pla before and am printing a fan mount (yes Brian, i am printing yours). But i wanna no if anybody every tried it before and what settings they used.

Hi Thaamike,
Nice to hear you are printing the fan mount.
Make sure to set your temperature for PLA about 10C higher then normal if you are going to cool while printing.

I tried first without the extra cooling form the fans. I contact 3dninja.nl and they told me i would not need an extra fan for polymaker pla. And so far so good. I orderd a roll and also buildtak.


With regards to the new firmware and Slic3r - I seem to be having a problem with speed control. No matter what speed I set in Slic3r, the printer goes really fast. Other than that - Slic3r is excellent. Any ideas ?


hi, have you a guide on how to access the feeder tube guide, the short tube just above the hot end? i think mine is restricted :-(

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I just had this problem, so did my brother-in-law who has the same printer. The problem seems to come from the sharp edge of the filament when it is first loaded. I have found that the filament gradually cuts its way through the side of the feeder tube. In my case the filament jammed in the cut and stopped loading and I couldn't get it to go into the extruder head. In my B-in-L's case the filament actually broke through the side of the tube and exited into the printer itself, causing a bird's nest inside the printer.

The solution is simply to replace that section of feeder tube. Cut the tie wrap that holds the feeder connector and just pull the whole feeder fitting out, including the short feed section. The short section (about 5cm) is connected just like the other feeder tube connectors. Push the black collar and pull the tube out. Replace the tube, put the fitting back into the extruder head, replace the tie wrap and job-done.

You can get feeder tube from e-bay.

Hope this helps.


Thanks so much, thats helped a lot :-)

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Ahoy everyone. Brian thanks for all the great info you've put together, and nice youtube channel as well you're a very informative guy!

So I started getting the 0040 error and ended up swapping out for an old microSD card I had laying around. And Yep it fixes it....But there's more.

So the first thing I noticed when I took out the old card was that it felt a hair thinner then my spare card. The SD card holder in the machine is a press fit with sliding latch to hold the card against the connections to the board. My guess is the slight vibrations in the machine over time are causing read write errors on the card. (long term, corrupting the data/format)

So I popped the original card into my phone (s7e) and noticed under settings/storage/SD card it said it was corrupt! Bingo! it all makes more sense now. So the phone had an option to format the SD card,I did that and removed the files the phone default puts on it. Popped it back into the printer and its back to working order.

You might be better off getting a new card in the long run, but if you don't have one on hand and don't feel like waiting, try formatting the card.

•○Possible fix would be to put a small piece of masking tape on the backside of the card to make it fit slightly tighter in the holder but please proceed with caution. You don't want to bend/stretch the card holder.○• I have not tried this myself yet

tl;dr - Printer throwing 0040 ? Don't have a spare on hand ? Format original card its more then likely just corrupted data and will work again.

Hi Jimbobareno,

Thanks for your comment.
I didn't actually notice this first, but now with your comment and me still having the old card around, I took my calipers and measured my old card to compare it with a brand new one.

The card supplied by XYZprinting has a thickness of 0.69mm (or 0.0275 inches) while a Lexar card I have laying around here measures 0.74mm (or 0.029 inches).

The funny thing is that the SD Association, the organisation that made the definitions for all the SD cards, says it should have a thickness of 1mm (0.039 inches).

I am a bit confused now because also the Lexar, that fits perfect in my Da Vinci Pro without ever having a problem, is thinner then the specs say it should be. Nevertheless it's thicker then the supplied micro SD card.

I have a whole bunch of these cards because of my work and when I am back there I will measure them all to see how big the variations are.

Heya Brian,

Nice you measured the sd card! That's great I wanted to measure the original with my calipers but it was back in the machine and printing when I thought about doing so.

I knew it had to be a little off (I read some where the human touch can sense differences down to 13 nanometers). I just measured my spare microSD (Kingston) and it came out to 0.74mm as well. I'm going to guess this is standard and within the tolerance the SD Association allows.

I had gotten the 0040 error about 5 or 6 times prior and a power cycle always fixed it until yesterday when It would throw the error every time right away. Which must be the point when it corrupted.

By any chance did your original SD card that came with the machine corrupt ? I'm wondering if the format will work for others that run into that problem, as well as the masking tape fix. I have the original back in my machine now so as soon as it errors again I may try the tape method.

I don't think ADATA is necessarily a bad brand , and xyz probably gave them a budget they had to work within to produce enough cards for their machine production run maybe that resulted in slightly less plastic being used in the mold or die. I'm just speculating here , and I'm guessing the silicon that stores data probably all comes from the same place. Many times products will all be made in the same factory with the same materials with only slight differences and branding.

I'm not sure if my theory of SD card thickness/vibration/corruption is correct , I've seen talk about interference and missed steps on CNC machines from vibration as well so I don't think its too far fetched.

I just bough a da-vinci 1.0. I was excited at first, then I started reading reviews. I heard of having to buy and upgrade to print pla, and having multiple extrudes if you want to print pla and abs. I heard that abs is not good for detail parts. I dont mind sticking with just one type of filement. what i dont want is to have to buy an upgrade for pla. I have not even found said upgrade. If anyone has any information please let me know. Other wise i plan on taking back the printer as soon as it arrives. Those far the promises of multiple material and easy uses are turning in to pipe dreams.

Hi Koski,

First of all, this post is all about the Da Vinci 1.0 PRO printer, and that's not the same as the printer you ordered. In fact, the normal 1.0 is a complete other machine then the 1.0 PRO.

That said, when you enter the world of 3D printing, you step into a world full of tinkering, maintenance and things you have to know. There is no such 3D printer that just prints the exact same thing you want to have. You need to be willing to learn about material properties, about types of printers, about designing, etc.

The characteristics of ABS or so much different to the characteristics of PLA that you must know why you should be using one or the other. The moment you understand that, you also understand that ABS extrudes a bit different from PLA and therefore some people will advice you to use another hot end. For me, I don't use another hot end, I clean the one I use and start using other material. It takes a bit of time to do this, but I am not in a hurry.

If you are going to look for another printer you will find that in this price range, you won't find one that complies to all your needs. One is missing a heated bed, the other has Z axis problems, yet another misses a closed box around the printer, etc. There are many reasons for every printer to be negative and say that maybe you better take it back and look for another one before you ever used it. Well, in that case buy yourself a $10.000 machine and find out it uses to much energy to be happy with it. There is no such thing as the perfect 3D printer.

I hope you will have any printer shortly and start learning about the beauty of 3D printing. Then you will see that it's a constant renewing field of expertise and that you do have to tinker your machine from time to time, any machine.

Good luck,

my friends i have a strange issue with my printer today
the nozzle extruder was clogged with PLA so i took it out and i fixed it and returned the extruder to the printer but after switching the printer on the bed was going up until it reached the maximum and hit the nozzle extruder then very noisy sound coming up as the bed still trying to go higher and i was thinking that the bed will return to it default position but nothing happen even after many restarts :(
i tried then to move the extruder far from the bed but i couldn't as the bed pushing the extruder very strong and after new restart same issue came up but this time with the error message number 0030
please i need your help urgently

While the bed is going up, there is an optocoupler that detects if a flag is coming in between the sensor. The bed should stop going up when the optocoupler senses the bed.

If this is not happening, then the optocoupler might be defect, or the wire is loose. I would check that first.

today i received the new sensor from xyzprinting and i installed it but still the same problem so i rechecked the 3 pin wires and its working too so now i can say i cant understand anything and am really pissed of this shity printer
i need someone to tell me this : if i installed any other firmware will it work well ? also if i did that i will change the extruder to hot end e3d v6 because i hate this printer extruder and the feeder from the back and many others problem

today i tried switching the Y Sensor with the X sensor and it look like both are working well but still the same problem exist as the bed start at the highest point and even when i go to jog mode the maximum lower level i go to is just 10 mm then i will be able to go up again 10 mm
it looks like the bed had lost its original home axis
by the way this happen after start print with PLA XYZ cartridge for 7 hours and when i came and saw that the print was soooo bad i canceled the printing process then i went to clean mode to clean up the nozzle head then switched off in the 2nd day when i start it up the bed was raising as usual until it hit the nozzle head with very noise sound and from that day am trying to return it to its original status

so now after confirming that the sensor working well what is the 2nd way to fix the bed?

HI there,

I just started printing again after i while and i noticed something. I made a simple design in 123d from autodesk. I import this in the new xzy for pro and the the size is correct. But when the design got printed i noticed that it somehow is scaled down. I miss 2 mm here and there. I updated the firm ware before i printed. Anyone got the same issue ?

Nope, never had that issue.

I Made a simple frame that is 168 x 104 outer dimensions. The frame is 2mm thick so the inner size should be 164x100 but it is not. The outer size is 167x 103 and the inner size is 162x99

update: I calibrated and made several attempts with several 3d drawing tools but get the same result. Tried slic3r but get the same result. I have the feeling something in my firmware is messed up. Posted pictures in the link.

update: Still not a solution. XYZ tells me i need to use scaling option in the program.......... That is not the problem. I trie to get older firmware and see if that is the problem. Anyone has a older firmware ?

I am getting desperate. I have no futher reply from XYZ and also no reply from the company i bought it from, they dont call me back........ What next?

After 2 weeks of contact today i have been told that they will pick my 3d printer up and will check it at their place. I hope i get it fixed fast....

Thanks for the great post. I just got my Pro 1.0 and it refuses to connect to wifi. I'm following the instructions to the letter. The printer can "see" numerous SSIDs so I know the wifi system is capable of receiving. When I enter my password the printer just sits there saying it's trying to connect. This goes on for 2 minutes or so then stops trying. XYZ sent me a link to a video to do the wifi set up but I was already doing that process anyway so it didn't help. I haven't heard from them for a few days now.

Any one else have a similar problem or heard of a fix ?


My last option worked. It was the security algorithm on the router. I did not change it because too many devices already connect to it without a problem. I added a repeater/extender to the network. It's under a separate subnet and assigns IP addresses with a simpler algorithm. I chose WEP personal. The printer connected the the extender and took an IP address just as the instructions and video describe. I sent a print via wifi and it worked.
Good luck

Hi, wish I had a solution for you. I have the same problem and got the same reply form XYZ support. Got my Pro 1.0 four days ago and printer first model the following day via USB. I'll keep trying to connect to wifi (I have only one idea left) if it works I'll re-post.
I see you just got yours recently too. Hope it's only a coincidence and not some batch problem.
Have you had any luck since your post?

Hello ChatToBrian.

Thanks for you post! It's very useful !
Since 2 weeks i try to use slic3r but i don't understand why it's doesn't work for me.
Do you have added something in the Start G-Code and End G-code settings for slic3r? (I have a DaVinci Pro too).
(sorry for my english... it's too bad).

Svereal time tried to load filament in da Vinci all in one without success. ny tips?

Still problems ?

Sorry, no.
But I do know there is a Thingiverse topic on that printer as well.

Hi, I'm stuck and I am really hoping someone on here can help me out. I have owned my da Vinci 1.0 AiO 3d printer for about 6 months and it worked perfectly until when I was printing a model airplane propeller and it came unstuck from the printing platform and got jammed up into the long skinny belt that moves the print head left to right causing the belt's little black plastic tensioning device to shatter ripping out the little white nylon belt return pulley leaving the belt hanging down. I contacted XYZprinting right away on their website and ended up having a very bad experience with them because I am in Canada and they told me they won't ship warranty parts there for free and they don't accept visa credit cards or paypal for payment and demanded I send them $50 dollars for shipping by ways of a bank wire transfer. I called my bank and they told me there was a $57.00 service charge for this. This is when I got really upset when I realized that even though my printer failed under warranty I was going to have to pay XYZprinting $107.00 for a little black plastic part the size of a sugar cube! I ended up being lucky because a machinist buddy of mine took my broken pieces and used them as a guide to make me a perfect fitting aluminum replacement and I got my printer back together.

Now my problem: After putting everything back together I did a platform calibration and it failed badly, so Ifollowed the calibration procedure as I had a few times before and got a pass on the test. But my printer will no longer get through a complete print without the print head nozzle hitting the previously laid down filament pass knocking it loose from the printing bed. You can actually easily see and hear this happening. Do I need to do a different more involved calibration procedure to stop this? If you know of an internet link where I can find the info to resolve this please let me know.


BC, Canada

i am facing a problem that after the 3d printer started to print like 10% the filament stopped coming up from the nozzle and the back feeder tries to push more filament to the tube without luck so every ti,e am stopping the print process then i go to unload filament winch will not work as the filament stuck inside the print head so again am taking off the print head to find that the filament had melted inside the head and i clean it again and return it to the printer then make the load filament process that success every time when i see the melted filament coming out of the nozzle and after many other test i have no problem at all but when i move to printing process at the beginning everything goes as it should be then after 10% or little more the same problem happen again :(
i did try to fix it now more than 7 times and every time same issue
any suggestion or recommendation to solve my issue?

What filament are you using and what temperatures?
The plastic tube that is used inside the print head is not of very good quality, and you may need to replace it with a better quality PTFE tubing (or brass, as others have done). When I did this, I replaced it with PTFE tube with an inside diameter of 2mm. This helps stop the filament from buckling as it is pushed through the hot end.

See https://www.thingiverse.com/groups/da-vinci/topic:6363

thanks for the fast replay
am using HatchBox ABS filament 1.75mm
i thing i will go and try the brass tube but am afraid to break something when am trying to fix it :)
by the way how can i takeoff the big black cap on the top of the extruder?

thanks for the fast replay
am using HatchBox ABS filament 1.75mm
i thing i will go and try the brass tube but am afraid to break something when am trying to fix it :)
by the way how can i takeoff the big black cap on the top of the extruder?

I'm having an issue I hope you can help me with, and I hope I can describe it right:

The connector at the feeder wheel that holds the white feeder tube, the black retention ring keeps popping out. This makes the wheel keep feeding the filament, but nothing is coming out of the extruder. My machine came with 2 spares, and I've already changed out one of them, but it keeps happening. I've removed the printer head and cleaned it and I'm using a proprietary cartridge refill, so all the heat settings should be preset in the programming, right? So what would cause the feeder tube to pop loose from the fitting?

YES!!! Thank you! That is EXACTLY what's happening. Is this normal? Maybe a design flaw in the printer? In any case, thanks for the link. I've already ordered a batch.

Is it normal, well.... Yes and no.
It happens quite often on this printer, but on the other side repairs and maintenance are something that is pretty normal on machines with moving parts.

I think that you could replace some parts with better, more expensive, parts to make sure it will take longer before a new failure occurs. That said, if they would have done so from the beginning, the machine would have been much more expensive.

You get what you pay for.

After I cleaned out the nozzle on the printer and replaced it, the loading loading and unloading process works just fine. When printing though the filament pools around the nozzle and makes a blob. Recalibrating the table keeps failing. Any ideas?

Try manual calibration, because that really is the best method.
If possible, try 0.20 to 0.25mm nozzle distance from the bed (use a feeler gauge to measure this) or do it with a piece of paper and use Z offset to finetune the distance.

Thank you ChatToBrian.

Your post is very helpful for me.

I use Da Vinci 1.0 Pro 3in1, and it have many problems also.

Hello. Do you have the Start G-Code and End G-code settings for slic3r?
(Da vinci Pro)

I just picked up a da Vinci 1.0 Aio. Software loaded and updated Without a problem. Loaded the filament as directed and the extruder pushed some filament out. Went to print the preloaded prints, the lion, and the first layer went down without a problem. All other layers failed to print. The heads moved. The extruder didn't push any filament. I cancelled he print. Unloaded and reloaded the filament extruder pushed out. Reprinted. Same problem. Any ideas?

Thank you in advance.

Well after much thinking and digging I ran a calibration test just on the off chance and my goodness. Whoever the expert is that levels the print platform definitely doesn't work for NASA. it was off by about 70 points on the "B/2" corner. After about 10 calibrations I got the sucker to work :-). We shall see how the lion prints now.

Hi Brian!! I was about to calibrate my printer manually and was reading your guidelines, which are great, the only problem that I have is that my printer does not have a 1.35 setting. It goes from 1.33 to 1.38... Is my printer defective? or can I get away with using 1.33?

Hi Frederick, You can get away with it.
After calibration, your printer determines the offset values. Those are not the same for every printer. So you don't calibrate with my values, but in the same way I do it, with your own values.

Let me know if you don't get it right.

Hi Brian.

In this troubleshooting post you brifly mentioned that you had some clicking noises on the first layer of printing.
What did you do about that?

My bed is calibrated to be perfect and i only get the clikning noise from test print(those two lines in the right hand side) it makes before the real print. On the real print i don't get those clicking noises if the calibration is perfect.
But I find that if i off-set the Z-axis a little bit i remove the clicking noise of the first layer and i still get a very nice print.
My thought is that the aluminum plate is not a 100% level.

Am i totally wrong i doing this or do you have a better suggestion?


Hi Ronni,

There can be numerous things that create the clicking sound and to be honest, In the two test lines, I still have this sound.

First it's important to understand where the sound is coming from. It happens when the extruder motor tries to feed more filament then the nozzle can spit out. This can have some reasons, which I will go through.

  • If you have a perfect calibrated bed, and the bed is straight AND the clicking happens the whole first layer, then most probably the Z axis is not set correct. If you increase the gap between the bed and the nozzle in the Z axis adjustment, you will be able to set it high enough to remove the clicking sound... BUT...
  • If the above is set correct, and raising the Z offset makes the print not stick to the bed anymore, then there is another problem, Over extrusion. You can set the extrusion percentage and you can lower this in 5% steps until you don't hear the clicks anymore. If you use this setting, be sure to check the print quality because under extrusion gives a bad quality print.
  • Another problem can be a not perfect calibrated bed. If the bed is lower on the left side and higher on the right, then this clicking can happen only in the test strip and not in the print, that is more in the middle of the bed. This can happen because the calibration check corners can be a little out of line so there can be a slight difference in the hight for each corner. This is why I always calibrate by hand.

This are the most common reasons why you can have the clicking sound.
I found that in XYZWare it is almost impossible to get rid of this clicking by setting the right parameters. Since my switch to Simplify3D (paid and expensive), I have no problems anymore with the clicking.

Good luck.

I started running into a problem last night with my printer (1.0 PRO). Have had it a few months, but haven't had time to really use it. Finally ran out of the stock filament so I stuck in a roll that I had from a flashed 1.0. Printed a small, thin part relatively pain-free. Quality wasn't great, so for the next print I tweaked some temps. Then it wouldn't feed. It was like the nozzle was jammed and the feed motor was clicking. So i fiddled with it for a while until I got tired and went to bed. Get up this morning and try to feed the filament back into the printer and it seems to be going well, until I notice that the filament isn't coming out of the hot end, but has instead busted through the feed tube after the connector at the top of the heating cartridge and is snaking it's way back upwards. After much fiddling and a bunch of zip-ties, I was able to get reinstalled and am currently running a test print. Any idea as to what cause the filament to actually bust through the feed tube? And is this a problem XYZ is aware of?

Just got my pro a few days ago, and noticed that the upload of large prints is very slow. I printed this gear cube last night: http://www.thingiverse.com/thing:10483. It was sliced with Cura, with a layer height of 0.2 and infill of 20%. The gcode file was 16.6mb. The 3w file was 5.5mb. It took about 15 minutes just to upload the file over usb. Is this normal? Can it be fixed with a faster sd card? It seems crazy that it would take this long to upload and unzip/process this file.

Screwless Cube Gears
by emmett

I'm not using anything but the stock software and have yet to have a process time above 3 and a half minutes.

Hey Brian,

I´m having an error on temperature readings. The display shows 67 when I´m sure it´s 37. It goes on an infinite loop of not printing because it stays forever heating.

any clue for this? I checked the wires and everything seems ok...

What reading goes wrong? The bed or the nozzle?
It looks like a damaged thermistor or something similar.

The bed. My first thought was some bad sensor but the problem fixed itself... Who knows...

Please take a good look and see if a sensor has come loose or broken. If so, The readings could be wrong and the bed could heat up without stopping, resulting in fire !!!

Look it up on the Internet, you wouldn't be the first where the printer catches fire because of a sensor failure and a nozzle or bed being heated up for too long.

For everyone who has to remove the print head of the Da Vnci Pro to get in un-clogged or any other repair, this is how the thing works and looks:

One thing I have run into is that on three occasions the extruder has jammed and was unable to fix it and had to send it back to XYZ. Has anyone else encountered this or am I the only one?

hello everyone, been absent for a few months with other projects in the garage. but just a update, I preordered my Pro and received one of the first ones released (early October) and am still extremely happy with it!!! in the beginning there was a few issues with the feeder gears making the clicking sound by skipping on the filament and the very common issue of the feed tube quick connect braking.
my at 700hrs on the machine I got tired of waiting for someone to do the hard work and fit a E3D full v6 so I was the first to have it in the printer and working. so as a update to the hot end swap, my printer now has 2133 hours on it. WITH NO ISSUES!! I have still yet to experience any kind of issues such as the SD card read error I've seen. even today the bearings have held up wonderfully!!
I have to say the pro is far more reliable in the fact it has never left me stranded, I cant even say when the last time I actually watched it start printing. I have a MPCNC setup with e3d lite and Original Prusa i3. both combined don't compare to the pro, haven't even had a failed print in months! wish I would have just bought a 2nd pro instead of the i3.

Hi Bryan, Good to have you back here again.
I also think the Pro is a great machine, but I must say that the last few weeks I experience some issues with it. Nothing I can't handle, but like any machine, it needs some maintenance from time to time :-)

I have not swapped the hot end yet, but that will be done somewhere next month I think. I already have two E3Dv6 hot ends laying around and all the printed parts and two PCB's are coming my way from bdWalker. The only thing I need now is time... :-)

So I seem to be having a problem. My bed refuses to not heat, no matter what I set it to it heats up to 40C. I have tried setting the user filament bed temperature as well as the bed temp in the print settings.

Neither of these things have worked, nor has restarting the printer.

Using the 1.0 pro

Have you unchecked the box for heating the print bed?

41C is the minimum IF the print bed is turned on.

Indeed I have. Xyzware doesn't seem to like respecting my check boxes in general, so i think I will give reinstalling it a try.

It's the strangest thing, because for the past few weeks it was working fine, then suddenly I can't turn off the bed heating.

Reinstalling didn't help. Is there anything else I can do on my own, or is it time to contact support?

I vaguely recall we had pretty much exactly the same problem as you are experiencing with one of our older Da Vinci printers. The extruder would heat up some way (40 degrees), and the bed would not heat at all. Then it would just sit there doing nothing. I figured there was a problem with the heater bed or the bed tempeature sensor. There were some pretty shoddy looking connectors for the temperature sensor bed heater and logic suggested that the controller may have a routine to preheat the extruder to a particular moderate temperature and then wait until the bed started before continuing to heat the extruder to the operating temperature.
As it happened the printer was still covered by Warantee, so we sent it off and it was duly fixed. The comment back from the agency who fixed it was that yes, the connectors on the sensor (and heater bed) are a bit crap, and all they needed to do was replace the connector.
Anyway, this may be what has happened for your one.

Unless you did something with your wires, and there is a possibility that you made a mistake, I think you should contact support.

If you have some tester, it would be nice to know if the heated bed is really turned on, so if there is really 12 volt going to the bed. If there is some voltage going to the bed, but it isn't a stable 12 volt, it could be some current leak because of a part on the motherboard which is defect.

Has anyone had problems with the extruder not heating. I check all the connects and measured voltages. The extruder voltage is only at 9 volts, which should be 12v to heat up. I have 12v going to the board from the power supply but only 9 going to the extruder. Tested the extruder with a 12v power supply and it works. I can not tell if this is a firmware or hardware issue. Any thoughts???

Comment has been deleted

What printer are we talking about? The 1.0 Pro?

I measured (with a scope) on my printer and while heating it reads 11.8 volts without any PWM.

Yes it's a Pro 1.0

In that case I don't think you have measured it wrong because there is no PWM (Pulse Width Modulation) going on while heating up. On a multimeter you must read the exact same as when using a scope. My readings gave me 11.8 Volt stable, so there must be something wrong with yours

Any idea what on the board controls heat up

I can only find one picture of the Pro's main board online. In this picture the wiring harness for the hot end is on the bottom edge of the board toward the left side. It looks to me like there may be a MOSFET to the left of the connector. That is probably what controls the power to the heating element.

Pro Board

Out of curiosity, have you updated to the latest firmware? If not, perhaps new firmware will fix this issue.

Brian, I know you have a good relationship with XYZprinting. Do you think they would require shipping the printer back to try to fix this problem? Or do you think they could help solve it remotely? It sounds like a mainboard problem.

Ehhhum, my relationship with them is not as good as you think :-)
Because I told in public (YouTube) what I didn't like about my printer, XYZPrinting in the Netherlands was threatening to sue me. The fun part was that while this was happening, XYZPrinting in Korea gave me a huge amount of filament and so on because the liked the way I was helping people who had bought the printer.

But, I really don't know how good there support is and if they are willing to send a new motherboard. I think it doesn't matter if I ask it or someone else.

For a company to threaten whoever criticizes them constructively is just insane! It's plain wrong and it should be enough of a reason to never buy their products again.
i'm pretty disappointed with XYZprinting support myself, the straight push fitting on the inside of the carriage broke, twisting the piece of angled PFTE plastic inside, making the feeder gears slip and pushing the filament out of the carriage from the top, So I called customer support and whoever answered was very confused but advised me to start a support ticket online, So I did but now they take too long to respond and are generally not helpful, you're usually better off buying aftermarket parts from a third party, now in the case of a faulty motherboard, let's just wait and see, please keep us posted @Midncoco.

Oh well... Their printer is just great for the money, so...
This is the part you mean?

It's really cheap, only 0.45 Euro's at the link above... The only down side is you have to order 10. Lol.

Sure you can buy these in any country.

Thanks Brian, but I've actually order them already, I just kept going with the support ticket because we are supposed to have a warranty and customer support, fortunately in my case I can buy the parts, but, what if it was the mainboard or some other critical component only they have like the cartridge PCB? I'll follow up on my request as I think everyone should, otherwise they should tell you the printers are sold AS IS too keep the cost down.

I'm sorry to hear they did not appreciate your honest criticism, but I'm glad they did not go through with a lawsuit.

Have you used an oscilloscope to see if the voltage to the extruder heater is really 9V and not a pulsed 12V signal that might register on a multimeter as ~9V? Even with 9V I would think you should see some heat from the heater cartridge.

Also, is this a new issue or has your printer never heated up properly? If your printer used to work, did anything happen just before this heating issue appeared? I remember some users mentioning heating problems after they accidentally shorted the heater cartridge leads with the wire cleaning brush.

its solid at 9 volts, I measured as I tried to heat up for a calibration. the cartage does not heat up with anything less than 10v. This is how I got the printer believe it or not. XYZ has not been very responsive, surprise surprise!! Best I can think its man handled during shipping or possible firmware problem

everything else and heater bed work fine

hi there, new to the forum, have a question, had a power cut during a print, now the table is up and doesn't go down after powerup? any idea how to get table down? cheers Ron

There are more than one way to handle this. I often find the easiest way it to start a small print job, and as soon as it is in heating mode cancel the print and it will lower the print bed. Another method is to use the JOG MODE to move the Z axis -- this may require first doing the HOME AXES function so the printer can start from a predetermined position.

as I said, new to the printer / printing in 3D , starting printjob brought bed down but leaves it up high after finishing job, how to use the job function? cheers Ron

Ron, If your print bed lowers toward the bottom of the printer when you start a print job and stays near the top when it finishes cooling down after a print job then I am afraid the power outage may have done some permanent damage to your printer. At the beginning of a print job the printer should raise the print bed to the top and then start heating the bed and/or extruder. If you cancel the print job at any point -- including during the heating phase -- the printer should lower the bed after the bed temperature drops below a certain temperature (or immediately if you are cancelling right away -- before the bed has warmed up).

I do not know which model of da Vinci printer you have, but I suggest you familiarize yourself with the options available via the printer's LCD display. If your printer is similar to my da Vinci 1.0 Pro there should be a UTILITIES menu with a JOG MODE option that will allow you to move the X, Y or Z axis using the arrow buttons on the printer. The printer may refuse to move one or more of the axes if you have not first used the HOME AXES utility -- this is because if the printer has not recently homed the axes then it doesn't know how far it can move without exceeding its limits.

I hope this helps. If you need more help after you play around in the printer's menus don't hesitate to ask more specific questions. There's usually someone here willing to lend a hand.

Best, Bruce

Hey Guys,

A new issue pops up on my printer, anyone had the same error?
'PLEASE REFER TO USERGUIDE & xyzprinting.com FOR ISSUE 0040'

The only thing working is the lights flashing inside the printer...

Just uploaded Episode 3 of my series on 3D printing on YouTube. This time I talk about problems with slicing in XYZWare for Pro when the print is less then 2mm in height and if it is smart or not to use multiple parts on one print bed.


Anyone Having Issues With 1.2.6 Firmware, i cant calibrate anymore. its stopping 1-2mm short of the pad.

1.2.8 FW is out. Anyone tried cailibration improved?

To answer my own question. Something has changed in 1.28 but the issue remains. It still just misses the right front pad.

The calibration function has changed: Now it failed 3 times on the first pad without going to the next pad. Haven't seen this before. After cleanup of the pad it looked like a "regulair calibration FAIL" again ;-)

I haven't done the newest firmware update, but mine did the same thing after the last firmware update. It would not touch the front right pad anymore. Worked fine before the update. I ended up having to put a little piece of lead tennis racket tape on top of my blue tape right by the pad up to the height of the pad for it to work. I works now most of the time with the lead tape

Same here. Mine is stopping is stopping barely short of the front right pad. All other corners are touched as they should be. Calibrated fine under the previous version. Well fine is a relative term really..... :) But now it is definitely failing to reach that front right corner pad.

Have calibrated my bed without issues, except that the calibration is off due to warping of my aluminum bed.

well mine isnt even 30 days old so no warping and i use a glass topper

Does your glass stick up above the metal pads on the corners of the bed? If so, you'll probably have to either:

  1. remove your glass, adjust your z-offset for the standard bed and then run calibration. After calibration replace glass and re-adjust z-offset.

  2. Or... Place your glass such that you can use the metal calibration tabs to hold it in place. This would bring the metal up to the top of your glass so it will touch the calibration probe.

my glass is sized to be under the pads, was working fine before the 1.2.6 firmware with 200+ hrs of print time, it hasn't worked its the y axis that is not working not the Z

Same problem here. Managed to do it manually using Z-offset and a businesscard. Interesting to know it has been working. Would like to have it fixed then.

I had the same issue that some others did earlier in this group, where my plastic tube going into the extruder got kinked and kept leading to clogs and other issues. Every time I reattached it/reconnected it, it would eventually work it's way loose or kink again.

I saw suggestions about using a copper tube instead, but have neither the equipment nor experience to solder another brass piece on to keep it in place. Instead what I did was went to Lowes and got a 25 cent 1/8" cable clamp. Put the copper in, bent it like suggested, and then right where the copper leaves the top of the extruder assembly, bolted on the cable clamp. With that securely to the copper tube, you can then just use a single longer zip tie to keep that in place. I did that all yesterday and back to printing and working beautifully! So just an idea for an alternative solution if you don't want to solder.

Here are a couple pics to explain (note: I'm going to go revise this and cut the copper a little shorter -- it's sticking out a tad too far, but you get the idea)

What guide were you looking at? I followed this guide by BDWalker1 and simply needed a Dremel (and of course the extra parts), no soldering required.

Thanks for posting this information, and thank you to everyone else for adding to it.

I got my printer on Thursday (2 days ago) and am beginning the learning curve. I've ordered up a roll of kapton tape and plan on using hairspray instead of the glue stick as I've had poor results with that so far - only 2 totally good prints out of 4 or 5 done so far.

Does anyone know of a good alternative for Aqua Net hair spray? My local CVS didn't have it. There are several other pharmacies and beauty supply stores nearby that I can try, but just in case I'd like to have a backup plan.

I found Aqua Net at the Walgreens across town so the alternative isn't necessary. I was skeptical about it, but not any more. Wow, it worked like a charm and held my quick test build fantastically.

New to 3D printing, so don't troll me if you have covered these before. Have had the D 1.0 Pro for about a month now, couple of observations:
-The clicking noise is caused by either the nozzle too close to the bed or the filament isn't coming out of the spool because it is stuck.
-the Cheap AquaNet Hairspray works the best, I have tried all the tape and glue sticks, and hairspray is the best!
-If you bed will not calibrate (failure), take a small fingernail file or emery board, and file down the tip next to the head, seems ABS is a great insulator, and even a micron worth of ABS will prevent the contacts from connecting.

OK, so now for my problems:
-Having problem withe the printer connecting wireless and keeping the connections, one day it is there, next day I have to set it all up again. Suggestions?
-Globing, it will print a line and then leave a little glob as it goes to the next line, so then when it prints the next layer, the nozzle will hit it, and thus chaos from there (Yes, totally cleaned it multiply times, using XYZ ABS)
-Does anyone else have problems with XYZ ABS Black layers not sticking together?
-Do you need to re-grease the rails, is so suggestion on type of grease?
-Suggestions for Tip temp and bed temp? Mainly using XYZ ABS.
-Been getting my ABS from Amazon, cheaper anywhere else? (I haven't found it cheaper, but thought I would ask)

Finally, Amazon has the Laser Attachment, my just shipped on Friday, so FYI.


Hi Jerry,

Loosing connection can have a lot of reasons. Most of the time this is network related, not printer related.
For example, when your router finds out channel x is busy and if changes to channel y, your printer gets confused because it doesn't connect, re-connect like i.e. a phone does.

Globing... Stop using XYZ ABS. My problems got away when the spool of XYZ filament was gone and I started to use Verbatim.

ABS layers not sticking, same thing... Switch to a good brand ABS, like Verbatim. Problems solved.

Re-Grease, I have not done that yet. 1400 hours of printing so far.

ABS settings, I use 220C for the hot end and 90C for the bed. 20mm/ sec as fastest speed.

Cheaper ABS is not always bad ABS, but most of the time it is !!!
I lost al my problems when I started using good ABS.

wow, that is an outstanding post. You just added value to the whole internet

I really want to give a try to Cura and Slic3r but I don't know what settings do I need to set for Da Vinci Pro machine.
Can any one help me please? maybe a screenshot of your Da Vinci Pro settings?
Thanks in advance.

I suggest making another thread for this, if you can't or don't know how I'm happy to do it for you as I am also interested I trying out Cura.

I just got my da vinci 1.0 pro yesterday. It came with xyzprinting kapton tape. No uhu glue. I ran the sample part and it stuck like crazy just to the kapton. And idea what I can try? I heard purple aqua net hairspray. But does that go on the aluminum or on the tape. I'm brand new to this. This was that best thread online. Hope you guys have some suggestions.

i use the purple aqua net hairspray right on the bed. no problems

Thanks. I went and bought the 2090 3m tape. Same thing Makerbot uses. Then I put on a thin layer of Elmers glue stick.(goes on purple clears dry) it has been working perfect! The tape that came with the printer was way too course I think. My material kept settling down in the lines and sticking causing it to tear the tape.
Thanks for the advise. I'll try the. Aqua net on the bed sometime..

WOW excellent information! Thank you so much!

I’m having another problem with the tube. When starting printing the black tube receiver comes loose. I’ve pushed it back in and it clicks. The tube is a bit broke at the end. It looks like when printing starts the broke part pushes out the black tube receiver. Can it be correct or has the white tube stick on the black tube receiver?
If it is the tube which pushes it out can it be a solution to cut this little part off? Or has the tube remain a certain length?
Hope you can help me with this!

Sara, I am not quite sure what you are describing. If you could provide pictures of the issue we might be able to better help you.

To answer your question about tube length. I do not believe it is important that the tube be a specific length. Trimming a small portion off the end would probably not cause a problem. However, I would try not to take more than 5mm-8mm off. If the tube is too short it will introduce strain/binding of the filament path when the print carriage is at the forward corners of the print area.

Thanks for the answer! I have a picture, although, I’m new here and I do not succeed in embedding the picture here.

I don't believe there is any way to directly upload a picture to a forum topic here. You can use another web file hosting service (e.g. DropBox, imgur, iCloud, Google Drive, etc.) and you can post a link here. If you want to embed the image you can use the MarkDown syntax:

![Alt text](link)

Ok, so I am writing this for a second time because the page randomly reloaded when I was about to submit. This has been a fantastic night, Anyways.

@bdwalker1, I started a new comment thing due to this, while I guess being related, still is a new issue.

I tried to print something in ABS but forgot to put glue on my masking tape (Yeah, I currently hate myself). I left and came back after a while to find that it printed a few layers good but then (my guess is due to warping) the ABS spiraled all over the nozzle.


Sorry for it not being the best picture, but you get the idea. So I unloaded the ABS without issue and reloaded PLA. It loaded in and spewed out the nozzle smoothly.

I then attempted to print something in PLA only for it to start ticking. While still printing (although not very good) the auto feeder was occasionally jerking back, as if it was clogged. So I did everything, recalibrated, redid masking tape, cleaned nozzle with brush and clean stick thing. I then tried to print the calibration cube, it clicked for a while then seemed to stop.

The print came out pretty good and I thought it had maybe resolved the issue itself. I went back to my original print and the ticking came right back. I attempted to unload the filament only to find it was stuck.

So I removed the feeder tubes and took hold of the filament in the extuder with pliars and turned on the CLEAN NOZZLE. No success,

So I managed (It was not fun and took a while) to get the extuder out of the carriage and tinker with it. I took most evertyhing out and found the filament was stuck inside the heat sink down to the nozzle.

So I unscrewed the heatsink to see if I could get at it.

The filament was indeed stuck all throughout the tube. So I followed these instructions given to me by XYZ for my previous jam. (Note they just replied today)


I couldn't really get the filament out and I pushed so hard that the entire tube came through the bottom and the thermal paste slipped and the heat sink disconnected from the extruder. I just slip the heatsink back on the thermal paste but I dont think thats going to do the job (Air bubbles?) Not sure how good it needs to be applied for an extuder, I do have more thermal paste If I need to use it.


Should I slide the heatsink back up? I dont know.

So honestly, I have about lost my mind. I don't know what I should do. Is there anyway I can send just the extruder back and get a new one with my warranty? I dunno, I'm about delirious at this point. (I'm very tired, thought this wasn't going to be a big deal).


Although I did cause a clog in the extruder (Which I now see I could have solved a different, SIGNIFICANTLY easier way), I found out it actually was the feeder tube which connects from the main feeder tube to the extruder. Basically, when I had to take it out and put it back in during an earlier jam, I bent it bad.

Picture of Tube

Yeah. So when I take the entry part and zip tie it to the side like it came, it bends to the point where the filament will go in ticking, and won't come out at all.

So should I just let the tube stick straight up, or would that cause issues with the feeder tube? Anywhere I can get a replacement tube?


Believe this is similar to NICEdesign's issue above.

Having that tube come straight up to the top of the carriage is definitely better for the filament feed path. That kink you see is unnecessary friction.

However, due to the printer's dimensions it introduces extra noise due to the Bowden tube hitting/rubbing the top cover. If you want to see my solution look at: http://www.thingiverse.com/groups/da-vinci/topic:4985

Well. I tried just putting the tube straight up but the end of the tube seems broke and wont lineup with the extruder.

See Here

Should I just do your mod? Do I need that tube for it?

That tube actually needs to go down into the metal "funnel" on the extruder a bit (maybe 10mm give or take, I don't recall exactly). Find a thin tool to get in and line the tube up with the funnel then you'll be able to shove it in.

You definitely want some tubing there to guide the filament. Or, like I and some others have done, come up with a solution that uses another material like a piece of copper tubing.

The kinked tubing is certainly not a rate issue. Here's a video of someone who straightened their Bowden connection without changing the stock components: http://youtu.be/q0MWmKbRI_Q

Having issues with getting the tube to stay in. I cant get a picture right now but the end of the PTFE tube is split, so I think the filament is catching something and pushing the coupler up. I'm probably going to do the copper mod, any other suggestions before I order?

I wouldn't worry too much about air bubbles in the thermal paste. The extruder (aka hot end) is not as sensitive as a microprocessor or other solid state device. You can go ahead and slide things back together and tighten them up. The first time I removed the heat break (or "nozzle throat adapter" as XYZ called it) I also had my heatsink slip out of place. I just put it back together and tightened things back up.

Thank you, since XYZ's instructions didn't work, do you have any suggestions for getting the filament out?

Acetone does the trick.
I use a injection needle to put the acetone where I need it, then wait a few minutes and remove the ABS with a toothpick.

Well, the jam is PLA. Will Acetone still be good?

I don't think acetone has the same effect on PLA

Did you try unplugging the heater and thermistor wires and unscrewing the brass nozzle from the nozzle throat adapter? If you separate those concentrate on clearing any clog from the throat adapter. Plastic in the nozzle side should just melt next time you heat things up.

Will try when I get a chance.

I believe I have been having some problems with over extrusion on my prints using <.3mm layer height. During the print some of the abs will kind of clump up and then if it gets really bad the printer head may contact the "clump". I am printing at the default speeds using either hatchbox or XYZ filament at 240C. I found that the higher temperature hasn't affected the prints but gives me better quality at .3mm.

Has anyone had a similar problem or is there a way to adjust the extrusion speed. Any help would be very appreciated! Thanks

I have the same problem Bryan mine over extrudes like crazy if I don't stick with .2 height

If there a link to video for taking apart the print head? I'm pretty sure my nozzle is clogged and I can't find instructions on taking it apart. Woke up to find the filament broken off and a mess instead of a completed print. Removed the feed tube and cleared the broken piece but getting very little flow from nozzle after it was reloaded. Thanks

Try referring to my post a bit further down, BDWalker replied to it giving well written institutions.

Hi Remy,

I don't think there is such a video yet.
At least I have not seen anything like that.

My heating element cord has a short in it giving me an error code 11 when it connects without emergency shut down. the spare part on the xyz store is for the 1.0 and has a different cord than the pro any ideas on how to fix

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re-wire it. or replace the heating element. I wouldn't wait on xyz for help, they are useless.

Having a major issue that I believe is due to jamming. I went about 5 or 6 prints without a single fault until something strange that I haven't seen anyone mention happened to me. Somewhere, the filament got stuck (By the way the print turned out fine, but instantly as I started another print this happened)and the auto feeder began to grind it. Wish I had taken a picture. Basically, it went into the gears straight but on the side that takes it to the extruder, it jumbled up on itself. Due to this I couldn't get the filament to print or remove. So I heated up a piece of metal and sliced it at both ends, successfully removing it. However, now I had filament stuck in the extruder and in the feeding tube but making no contact to the feeding gears. I understand this probably wasnt the smartest move now, but I loaded more filament in hope to push the already there filament out. At first, it was working and the filament was spewing out fine. However, when It got to the end of the filament that was originally stuck (or at least when the end went into the extruder) the printer no longer spews out any filament and the gears cant push the filament at all. Unloading the filament also does not work. I believe this to be a jam, but I'm not sure how to go about fixing it. I imagine taking out the extruder and cleaning it out would be the case, but I cant seem to get the extuder out of the holder. Im not sure if filament is stuck somewhere or if Im just not pulling the extruder out hard enough. I think this is possibly a similar case to the question down below by ryan. Thanks.

Braden, When you were trying to get the filament cleaned out did you disconnect the feed tube from either or both ends? Both the end near the feed motor and the end on the print carriage have quick-disconnect fittings that you can push in then pull the tube out.

To get the extruder unit out I suggest disconnecting the feed tube at the carriage end, cutting the filament where it enters the carriage and then pulling hard to get the extruder unit out. You'll need to use a fair amount of force because the filament will need to bend where it goes from the feed funnel on the carriage into the filament sensor on the extruder cartridge. Unfortunately there isn't really a way to get in there and cut the filament at that point. Of course, you can try pulling the filament straight up out of the extruder before you cut it at the top of the carriage.

Thank you for your reply. I will have to attempt this tomorrow sadly. As for disconnecting the feeder tube from the carriage (carriage referring to the apparatus that holds the extruder, correct?) I attempted it but was scared at the amount of force I was using without gaining success. Is that normal? I can and have easily disconnected the end near the feeder gears.

If I can disconnect the feeder tube, I will of course attempt to pull the filament out directly. I would heat the extruder up first, correct? If that doesn't not work, you said there isn't really a way to cut the filament after pulling the extruder out. What would I do after that then?

Again, thank you.

Once the extruder cartridge is out of the printer you can try heating it up using the CLEAN NOZZLE function and pulling the filament out. Be very cautious of the hot end of the extruder -- no one wants to go to the ER just trying to clear a clog.

It's possible your clog is in the heat break (the threaded tube connecting the brass nozzle to the heat sink). If so the clogged portion of filament may not get hot enough to melt. You can let everything cool back to room temperature then disconnect the heater and thermistor wires and use appropriately sized wrenches to unscrew the nozzle from the heat break.

You'll notice the nozzle has two short flat sides for a wrench to fit. You'll also see two flat sides on the heat break's flange where it meets the heat sink. Those are what you use to unscrew the nozzle -- lefty-loosey.

Once the nozzle is off see if you can clear anything left in the heat break. It's possible filament may have been insufficiently melted when it was pulled up into the heat break. Use nails, small drill bits, etc. to clear the heat break. Try not to actually damage the metal as you don't want to reduce the smoothness of the metal or risk creating burrs/filings that may later clog your nozzle.

You're probably also going to find plastic in the nozzle side. Generally the nozzle side isn't an issue as that plastic will likely melt the next time it heats up. That said, if you want to be extra sure things are clear you can clean the nozzle with a filament appropriate solvent or use a small torch to melt/burn the plastic out. I don't have details for these methods. Just be sure not to damage the heater, thermistor or the leads for either of them.

Update. I got the feeding tube out but the filament broke off a bit inside the carriage
PIC; http://imgur.com/aNXWNRe - You can faintly see inside the 'feeder tube holder'

As for pulling the extruder out, I applied force enough to start bending the carriage. There is a tube similar to the feeding tube that contains the broken off filament. Is this normal? Is this blocking it?
Pic with the easy release tab flipped up: http://imgur.com/4OWW7rZ

Thanks, sorry it took me a while to get a chance to start working on it.

If you cut the zip tie that holds the wire loom to the feed tube connector you will be able to pull the feed tube connector (and the short piece of tube connected to the other side of it out of the printer. Then you should be able to get a good hold of that piece of filament with some pliers and yank it out. At that point you should be able to get the extruder cartridge out of the printer and get a better look at it.

Great News! I did what you said (By the way, just want to reiterate how awesome you have been and how I could not have done any of this without you.) and here is what I have come up with.

I cut the zip tie allowing me to take the feed tube connector and slide it facing upwards. I then pulled it out, exposing the filament
PIC: http://imgur.com/xFIyCsr

I was then able to use the CLEAN NOZZLE function to heat up the extuder and EASILY pull the filament out.
PIC: http://imgur.com/8Ncw0Nl

Finally I took the extuder out painlessly. But now, I'm not sure how to go about this. Is there a way I can check for jams? Or is it unlikely due to how easy the filament came out? Just wanted to make sure before I put everything back together.
PIC: http://imgur.com/PRnAObT


Well, if you haven't put things back together yet you could go through the instructions I provided below for nozzle cleaning. Here they are again:

As for cleaning the nozzle, did you try to clean it with the supplied wires while it was hot? I will assume yes, but had to ask. You can unscrew the brass nozzle from the extruder by:

  1. Unplugging the thermistor and heater wires from the extruder's PCB (you may need to snip a zip tie to loose them from the fan wire, and be careful with the thermistor jack. I inadvertantly pulled the white jack housing halfway off and didn't realize it until I was trying to plug the thermistor back in and it wouldn't stay connected).
  2. Use correctly sized wrenches (or good pliers) to hold the heat break (the threaded tube that goes into the heat sink) and then turn the nozzle counter-clockwise. Be careful not to damage the wires for the heater or thermistor.

Once you have the nozzle off you can verify if there is any material stuck in the heat break. (This would surprise me.) And you can get better access to both sides of the nozzle.

I would suggest putting the nozzle in a vise, heating it (i.e. with a butane torch) and trying to clean it with the cleaning wire while it is hot. Of course, while you are working on the nozzle always be careful of the heater and thermistor wires. If you inadvertently/unknowingly damage either of those components you'll probably have over or under heating problems.

While the nozzle is off you could also try cleaning with a material-appropriate solvent. For ABS filament people often soak the nozzle in acetone. I'm not sure what solvent(s) is(are) best for PLA or other materials.

Of course, if you have put things back together and successfully loaded/extruded filament then the extra nozzle cleaning is not necessary.

Obviously I didn't want to do a full cleaning, so I hoped for the best and attempted to give it a go (It loaded fine). I printed a test print that I have done before the jam. From the results, I believe it's jammed like you said (or as I feared ;c).

Print: http://www.thingiverse.com/thing:1019228
On the left (the obviously better looking one) is the print I did before the jam:



It seems to be spewing out more filament than normal and being much less accurate. The newer print also has strange white spherical dots all in it. Whats weird is when I loaded it, it seemed to flow unjammed. (Very smoothly straight)

So would you suggest doing the full cleaning? Im sure thats what is wrong, but just in case I guess.


Test your 3D printer! v2
by ctrlV

What kind of filament is that? Have you tried a different filament?

XYZ Brand PLA. Ill try XYZ ABS.

I was curious because the most temperamental (or perhaps just bad) filament I have tried so far was a transparent ABS from Gizmo Dorks. The first time I printed with it I got a small test print out fine. Then I tried a bigger print, and disaster ensued. After I got that mess/clog cleared I printed fine with a different filament. I eventually got back to the transparent filament and by using higher extruder temperature I was able to complete the print I had tried before. However, that experience has made me gun-shy to try that filament again.

Of course, you're using both XYZ filaments so that shouldn't be an issue.

Interesting. Had some issues unloading the first time, it was making a chopping noise, seemed to be stuckish. Second time worked flawlessly. Loaded up some ABS.

Loading: http://imgur.com/4gzMBYV

That doesnt look jammed... does it?

Should I start the test print with ABS?

Looks like that is flowing well. I say give it a try.

I'll admit, I'm anxious to know... How is the print in ABS looking?

Being that ABS takes longer than PLA, it still has about 20m left on it sadly. It pains me to say, but its not looking fantastic. But I dont have a ton of experience in ABS or really printing period so maybe im wrong. I pray!

Sorry to hear it.

The ABS seems to have lifted or warped off the masking tape. I printed in abs a few times before the jam and this is the first time its happened. Doubt its going to turn out well.

10m left.

Any suggestions if it doesn't work out?

Since you are using XYZ filament, is the printer setting the temperatures automatically for you? If not, what temperatures did you use for the extruder and bed for this print? Warping with ABS is not at all unusual -- especially in a piece like the test object you are doing that has a lot of direct bed contact. Did you put any glue stick or other adhesive down on the painters' tape before the print?

Unfortunate turn out. What to do? Should I try a full cleaning or a bigger print? I have only have 3 actually usable prints! Very disappointed with XYZ.




Mostly the problem with that print looks to me like the nozzle dragging through previous layers due to the warping. It looks like the end where the dome and cylinder are stayed stuck to the print bed and turned out the best. Would you agree?

Also, that is a fairly complicated object to be printing. What I would suggest you do it print something simpler like a calibration cube: http://www.thingiverse.com/thing:45225

If you print it with the ABS I definitely suggest putting a layer of Elmer's Washable glue stick (goes on purple, dries clear) on the painters' tape before printing.

If the calibration cube stays stuck and comes out okay then I would suggest moving on to something a little more complex like a calibration pyramid: http://www.thingiverse.com/thing:8757 And a cylinder: http://www.thingiverse.com/thing:111120

Seeing how your printer does on these simpler objects will make diagnosing any particular problem easier. That Test Your 3D Printer object is more of a torture test for a printer that is already producing good prints. Its complexity makes it a difficult object to detect printing issues on.

25mm calibration cube with empty top
by jotape
Hollow Calibration Pyramid
Simple cylinder

Ok, is it fine if I print these in PLA? True, the ABS did warp and the dome and cylinder were great, but the after jam PLA print didn't do nearly as good as the before jam and it obviously didn't warp. Calibration?

Yes, doing the test prints in PLA would be fine. Go ahead and print the cube. If it looks pretty good move on to the next. If it doesn't look good hold off on additional prints. However the cube comes out, post some pictures of it. Someone can look at them and give some advice.

I'm about to head to bed, but maybe someone else will be up to give advice. Otherwise I will take a look tomorrow.

All I have to say is wow. I don't know why the test prints are failing but the Cube and Triangle came out great! Working on the cylinder now. The only issue I had was the outline of the first layer (should have taken pic) didn't stick properly so I ripped it off for both prints. However, at least for these prints, you couldn't tell a difference.

Cube - 0.3mm LH, 10% Infill



Triangle - Printed at 1.5mm LH, 20% Infill


Cube - Printing at 2mm LH, 10% infill Will update with pictures when It finishes.

Those prints do look pretty good.

Out of curiosity, how long have you had your printer, and when did you print the Test Your 3D Printer thing the first time (the one that looks pretty good)? I'm curious if it was before the updated version of XYZWare came out or not. Maybe the changes they made to the slicing routines are affecting the print.

I got my printer February 13th, and yes, the original test was my very first print and it was on the older software that was on the CD. The newer ones are on the updated software. I can't remember exactly what version I was originally on but it looked significantly different.

I think I've noticed some problems printing detailed objects since they updated the software. I'm going to try printing that Test Your 3D printer object with the current software and then with the older software for comparison.

Also, I think we need to move this troubleshooting session to a new topic since we are filling up this one. I'm going to start a new topic soon recapping our back-and-forth. Watch for that topic and let's continue this discussion there.

Hm, strange.

Will do!

Don't blame you. Printing now w/ 0.3mm layer height and 10% infill. See you tomorrow, can't thank you enough for your help, rare to come across people as helpful as you.

Yes, they are correctly set. No, I didn't think to use glue as I haven't had issues before. Will keep in mind for later. It hopefully will be recognizable to the point where I could tell "Oh, yeah even if this didnt warp it would have been bad/good"

Thank you for your help, will attempt tomorrow!

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Need some help... Extruder assembly seems bound with filament. Woke up this morning and found that a 12-hour print had broken filament at the loading gear about 1-hour into the print. The filament is necked down so I suspect it was some how pulled in tension. Regardless, neither the "load" or "unload" function resolves the "jam". I removed the filament guide hose to expose the filament. Tried to run a sample print. No joy. Any suggestions?

what filament are you using?


take nozzle out n soke in acetone

Thx. I was able to clear the jam. Removed the extruder assembly and cleaned it up. Having issues getting the short segment of filament guide tubing from pulling out out the extruder assembly. I need to see if there are pics online of how it's supposed to look when properly installed.

Real quick... What is your factory default Z-Offset value?

Thx. I thought perhaps I had miser order my default value.

Hi ChatToBrian,
I am new to slic3r and would like to learn to use it. Do you mind to share with me your config bundle?
I want to see how did you set the many parameters :)


Hi Luca,
I am not that good with Slic3r I guess... I am willing to help, but I don't get that good results out of Slic3r my self.
I get a lot of stringing in every print. Easy to sand away with some sandpaper, but I don't have that with XYZWare.

The only reason for me to use Slic3r from time to time is because sometimes XYZware refuses to slice an STL.

Hi ChatToBrian,
I have made a preset that seems to work reasonably for me.

I am sharing here if you want to give it a try: https://dl.dropboxusercontent.com/u/10719885/Slic3r_config_bundle_luca.ini

Open Slic3r and select Load Config bundle.

The only thing you may want to change is the bed temperature and the noozle temperature accordingly to the material you are trying to print.

Hi Luca,

Thanks again for the settings.
I have printed a small thing I normally print with XYZWare and which then comes out perfect.
Now I is tearing strings all over the print.

I have used the same temperature settings, 215C for the nozzle and 90C for the bed. The printer also gave this settings on my screen, so I know they were right.

See my picture here to see what my problem is:

Hi Brian,
it looks very messy indeed.
I tried to print another object and I had the same problem!

I guess I found one possible cause, the retraction settings were all wrong.

I have created a new setting file copying the setting from the XYZWare, this will probably fix the problem.

I will try tomorrow again and I will let you know.

If in the meantime you want to take a look the new file is here: https://dl.dropboxusercontent.com/u/10719885/Slic3r_config_bundle_luca_V2.ini

Slic3r looks great, just too many thing to tweak :)

Found a way to download it. On my PC it was grey, so I couldn't download it, but on my macbook it was no problem at all. Thanks, I am now doing a test print.

Hi Luca,

Thanks very much for your file but I don't seem to do the right thingh.
As I open your link, I see the written code. I can't download it as a file, so I have to copy and paste in Notepad++ and then save it to my computer. Then, if I try to load the config file in Slic3r, the program stops working and closes.

I guess it must have to do with the way I save the file from notepad++, but I don't see another way to get te file to my computer.

Do you have any idea?

Brian, Try right-clicking on Luca's link and choosing the "Save file as..." (or similar) option. I'm on an iPad right now so I'm not sure the exact wording; it may also vary depending on your browser/OS.

Hi bdwalker1,

Normally I have that option and that's the way I should do it, but it's grey... I can't choose it.

If anyone can let me know how to manipulate RAFT settings? What I need is to set how longer/bigger than printed sample RAFT will be. Unfortunately I cant add jpg here, but in some cases, RAFT is not printed and it causes peeling off ABS from table. JPG is here: http://infocentre.pl/prv/NO_RAFT.jpg but I need everywhere inside too. Someone could let me know what I missed?

What kind of bed is that? a closer look not a bed but carpet?
Is it a heated bed?

looks like there is a raft under all the parts
is are you using , abs slurry, glue ,tape , nothing ?

Are you using XYZWare for slicing? If so, I don't believe you have any control other than on or off for the raft.

In your picture it appears all the object parts have rafting under them. Are you wanting rafting across the open areas as well?

Yes, standard XYZWare. I need raft in open spaces too. All samples are the same. Why raft on the bottom exist and why above not? As I suppose, raft should stabilize printed object, but if I can't make it bigger (eg. 15%) than sample it will not meets requirements. What to do? Other software will work better with Vinci?

I don't know what you are trying to make , but will the brim work?

personally I hate the xyz raft I haven't tried it in the newer versions because non of the release notes have info on improving it.

I need to have control of raft. I need raft under all structures, empty places too. I need to have possibility to set size of margin out of structure.

Ok I can only say if that's what you need .
I would have to see what you are making to understand .

I was thinking, that jpg is readable for anyone, isn't it? This photo show samples for tensile strength tests. Problem is because no raft over samples and they have differ thickness. The situation occur when material can't 'catch' table hard and material peeling off the table during printing which results in lifting part of the element and differ thickness. Hope it is clear.

If you want that much control over the raft have you considered just designing the raft into your 3D model? That way you can get exactly what you want.

I got a problem. I came back to my Pro 1.0 with a mess of a job. It was all over the place and the plate was all off kilter. Come to find out the back right (as you look at it) white knob had come completely out and the nozzle had pressed the bed alot. I can't get anything into the nozzle to clean it. I took the entire assembly out, cleaned from the top and tried to get something into the bottom (tip of the nozzle that touches the plate) and i got nothing. I'm wondering if some of the aluminum plate got into the nozzle or if the nozzle got warn down and warped or what. Anyone have any good options? Of course I was attempting to print something I need now, but that will have to wait. i'll post some pics as soon as i figure out how :).

Pics available here: https://www.icloud.com/sharedalbum/#B0YGJDfWGhQvtX

Hi Carl,

Damn, the print came out ugly, but you are not the first to have this problem and you won't be the last.
The things bdwalker1 said are good tips. Also, when looking at your pictures I don't see the tape damaged. I think that meens that there is not that much damage of the plate on the heated bed that there will be aluminum in your nozzle.

If you happen to have acetone, you can try to poor a little drip inside the nozzle to unclogh it. The plastic will melt and get loose while parts of aluminum won't. This means the plastic won't hold the aluminum anymore and you can easily get it out.

As for the leveling knob, I don't get it how that could happen. Was it near the end because of leveling the bed? How are the settings of your Z axis and how are your other knobs positioned?

Good luck with returning your printer in it's normal state. Hope you don't have to much damage.

I pulled it apart, thanks to bdwalker and chattobrian for the help, and the nozzle was clogged with lots of pla. I worked at it for about 30 minutes with acetone and got it cleaned out. Its purring like a baby now! Thanks guys for the help and i hope to be able to offer some in the future as i become more experienced with this.

I added some pics with the pulled apart clog and the after shot. Check it out. https://www.icloud.com/sharedalbum/#B0YGJDfWGhQvtX

Thanks. I'm going to see about removing the nozzle tomorrow. I was wondering about that and I think I have the way to do it now.

Wow, sorry you have to deal with a down printer in addition to cleaning that mess up. I'm surprised your bed leveling knob came right off like that -- are your other knobs near the end of their threads, or did that back-right one just come that loose on this print job?

As for cleaning the nozzle, did you try to clean it with the supplied wires while it was hot? I will assume yes, but had to ask. You can unscrew the brass nozzle from the extruder by:

  1. Unplugging the thermistor and heater wires from the extruder's PCB (you may need to snip a zip tie to loose them from the fan wire, and be careful with the thermistor jack. I inadvertantly pulled the white jack housing halfway off and didn't realize it until I was trying to plug the thermistor back in and it wouldn't stay connected).
  2. Use correctly sized wrenches (or good pliers) to hold the heat break (the threaded tube that goes into the heat sink) and then turn the nozzle counter-clockwise. Be careful not to damage the wires for the heater or thermistor.

Once you have the nozzle off you can verify if there is any material stuck in the heat break. (This would surprise me.) And you can get better access to both sides of the nozzle. I would suggest putting the nozzle in a vise, heating it (i.e. with a butane torch) and trying to clean it with the cleaning wire while it is hot. If you are afraid some bed material has gotten packed into the nozzle orifice I would suggest first trying to stick the wire through from the size of the nozzle that threads onto the heat break. Of course, while you are working on the nozzle always be careful of the heater and thermistor wires. If you inadvertently/unknowingly damage either of those components you'll probably have over or under heating problems.

I hope this helps you.

Thanks a lot. I'm going to give it a shot tomorrow and see. I needed to know how to remove the nozzle and u gave me what I needed, thanks for that. I'll see what it looks like and report back. Not sure how it popped off. It's a 6 he job, 3 of 7, and i came back and found it like that. The pic was actually I tried to put it back on and I couldn't see so I snapped a pic. But it's representative of what happened.

I tried cleaning the unit before removing it and nothing goes into nozzle. I can get barely in there but no movement.

I hope to do some work obit tomorrow.

Thanks again everyone.

question on the plastic nut , does it have a metal nut in the plastic or does it thread on the screw?

Not sure, have to look but I'm guessing there is metal in there.

Hi Brian,
sorry to bother you, did you had some time to make a new model for the spool holder?


p.s. you videos are super helpful.

Hi Lucapinello,

Yes it's there for more then a week allready:

It's the filamentholderXXL you can choose.

Da Vinci 1.0 PRO filament holder Large spools

Fantastic! I have missed it.
I am printing now :)

Thanks a lot!

Guys, On request of XYZPrinting, I made them a few video's on the problems described in this thread. As an answer, they made and uploaded a few video's on their channel to answer what we can do to solve the problems.

A big thumbs up for the guys at XYZPrinting. Their reaction came only 1 day after I gave them my video's. It helped me a lot.

Here are the video's:

Thanks for the video of changing out the back feeder connector. That's my project for today. It went from pulling out the small tubing in the carriage (Zipped tied it in more securely now) to pulling the tubing out of this top one. Hopefully after this I will be back to printing. I bought more tubing as well since I tried trimming off the ends for the connectors to get a better grip and that did nothing for me.

I've had issues with the calibration and now I do the set it to print, turn it off, move head around the bed and adjust screws. Its worked well so far


You should ask them to add those videos to their "da Vinci 1.0 Pro" series on their YouTube channel. I'd also love to see more videos about solving/diagnosing common issues with the 1.0 Pro.

Thanks for the videos, nicely done.

Updated the post with first results in software version and some Cura and Slic3r tests.


Can you share the gcode you are getting from Slic3r that is actually working? I'd like to compare it to the gcode I'm getting out of S3D to see what is different.

Nice to see new Windows release allows gcode import. Simplify3D support next, please!

"New features and improvements:
 XYZware for Pro supports importing G-code format files created by Cura & Slic3r."

I see a new iMac release has happened.
Much better than the last, but we now also have the splash screen advert, lol.

like we windows users also have :(

like we windows users also have :(

Yes, but the iMac version popup can be closed immediately, so it's not too bad.
This new version is MUCH better. Lets hope XYZ will keep improving the software as it has a long way to go.

I have bought a Da Vinci pro like 1 week ago already have a lot of problems with it.
To start of with a strange noise like a vibrating noise very loud I already contact the shop i bought it they send me a new one.
I got this new one Saturday and try to use it but it's not working its push the head to much on the building place witch makes the abs flat and its get stuck on the extruder head.
I try to calibrate the bed like 10 times its keep saying change this change that like 8,2 turns or 3,7 turn and afther so many trys its says it failt.
Also I have a problem that almost all of my build in the front of the bed get curves and so the extruder will push the object making the look of the object very bad or I get a lot of fail prints becaus of it, I had this when I was using the tape sheets xyz gave me with the printer in the box.
And the last but biggest problem I have is with the software slicing a object taking very very long and if I change layer hight to like 0,1mm or 0,2mm I always get sliced failt.

I am using a MacBook Pro with the latest version of OS X and I have download the latest version of xyzware for pro.

If somebody have a idea for any of my problems I would love to hear it.

Greats Dahley

Ps: I am Dutch so sorry for my bad English.

Calibration: 1. Check the sensor on the extruder is actually reaching the metal plates on the front sides of the heated bed. I had this problem. 2. You must adjust the Z offset in the menu to raise the print head so that you can get two sheets of paper between the print head and the heated bed.
Curves (warping of the ABS print piece): This is common to all 3D printers - you need to read up on how to reduce this.

The MAC software is worse than the Windows version. However, I also find the slicing unbearably slow on both platforms.

For me the easiest way to get rid of warping was using a glue stick. I use a glue stick from BISON and it works like a charm.


It seems that we all have problems when we first get the printer home.
I have broken plastic clips on the front panel, and I had to adjust the Y Axis on one side to allow the front auto level tabs to be reachable. I also increased the length of the tongue that interrupts the Y Home switch so that the auto bed level would reach all the auto level tabs. My printer also "hums" when it is homing. Still not sure why, but I guess it may be that the stepper motors are driven too hard. It's a whine that starts loud and then fades away.

Having said all that, the biggest problem I have is the software! It's awful.
I have to decide whether to keep it, or try another make. Is there anything else out there at the same price?
I suppose if Simplify3D can make their software compatible SOON, the it might just sway me.
What I have printed (not much) so far has looked good.

The other printer to go with is the Prusa I3
The problem is, this printer comes as a kit and like the Da Vinci Pro, it comes with a lot of problems that have to be solved before the printer gives desent prints. Sure the software you can use on a Prusa is better, but if you don't have the skills too build a Prusa, you won't get to the software as well.

The thing is, you have to learn the workarounds for every printer, whatever the brand is. 3D printing comes with a very steep learning curve and once you start to understand all the bits and pieces, you can work with the Da Vinci Pro even as good as with any other printer.

I for shure think, other printers might be more easy to opperate, but then they are more expensive. So what way you want to go? Pay $2000+ for an easier printer, or go with the flow, and start to learn and master the Da Vinci Pro?

I can say from my own experience that after hating the printer for 2 full weeks, I started to make friends with it for the next 2 weeks and now we are in love... The prints it can make are very good considering the price of the printer. For less then twice as much, you won't find a better one.

Yes, I guessed that :-)
I currently have a Cube3D 2nd Gen that I replaced the motherboard with a RAMPS board; the extruder with a hexagon extruder; and modified marlin software to run on it. It wa quite successful, albeit with PLA only due to no heated bed (I did do some ABS prints, but I could not control the warping... so I bought a Da Vinci. I toyed with getting the 1.0 or the 2.0, and flashing with repetier, but this Pro caught my eye. I have only had it a few days, and so my comments may have been premature. As I was used to using Simplify3D, the XYZPrinting software was a bit of a shock to me. Now that the new iMac version is out, it seems more usable. I am currently testing gcode created in Simplify3D, at 50mm/s, so much faster that std. I will post my results.

Thank you for being a XYZ Pro 3D Pioneer, then coming back to share your "adventures" with the the "not so brave" - 3D Printers using XYZ 1.0 Pro machines. I think there must be about TEN of us around the World now.
Thank you so much, again for sharing...

Whahaha, no problem.
Like to share my experiences with this machine. I had to find out a lot and with the help of great people here at Thingiverse I learned a lot about this machine and 3D printing in general.

Reworked the text in the topic.
Some errors are solved within the latest firmware and also some new workarounds are now better described.

oops.. posted in the wrong group.... Please delete..

Very nice group!

I got my Da Vinci Pro 2 days ago, I upgraded from the Da Vinci 1.0.

I have updated the firmware and I was able to print with the provided ABS cartridge and with Hatchbox PLA with 185C for the nozzle and 4C1 for the bed. I am using right now the provided tape. What do you use for PLA?

@ChatToBrian: your filament holder is great! The only minors problems I have are:

1) You cannot load very big spools (the arm is a little bit too short): like this http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00IEZH8IA or this: http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B007X0QBOO
2) When mounted you cannot open anymore the top panel completely.
3) You have to remove the filament holder to install back the cartridge

Otherwise I am already very super happy with it. Thanks a lot for sharing.

In general so far so good with this new model, the only annoying things are:

1) With the new firmware sometime the jog mode for the Z axis does not work properly. I cannot move down the bed, but I can move it up and then again down, but now twice or more times down (I am using the maximum step of 10mm). In order to fix this I have to start a print and then cancel so than the bed will go all the way down. I guess this is a bug of the new firmware. Do you have the same problem?

2) There are some vibrations from the feeder engine and some strange noise, this is what I am talking about: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=ftkVgiofAcY. This is not my printer, so I was wondering if this is the normal sound. I hear the same sound also after a print while the printer wait for the bed to cool down.

3) It seems we cannot print with flexible filaments without mods. Has anyone tried/had success to use a flexible filament without mods?

Thanks for creating this page. It is really helpful!

Brian's Filament holder works fine IF -

You MODIFY the TOP REAR LID HINGES: tools= head lamp, tiny files, Dremel (just useful, not required)...

While facing the printer door, I CAREFULLY pushed and slightly wiggled the 'RIGHT HAND back lid HINGE PIN' until it released from its "TRACK". Then I GENTLY pulled it up and forward (about 30 degrees max in both directions). It will then "pop out" of the outer right hand "frame trim" surround. This makes sense while you are doing it.

as you HOLD the aft lid at this peculiar angle, notice the TRACK on the left side (use a FLASHLIGHT) - it has CAPTURED the left side HINGE PIN. Mess with it until the ENTIRE AFT LID is loose in your hands with no apparent damage to ANYTHING. Don't worry if it all happens as a mysterious event.

we're ready for some work. There are at least TWO ways to do this, modify the lid's protruding hinge pins (DANGER of BREAKING) or, modify the "tracks". I chose a bit of both. At any rate after a good hour with a Dremel, tiny files and sand paper (lots of test fits), I was able to re - install the lid Left side first, then the 30 degree angled "wiggle wedge" for the right side pin. DONE. It now does an Aft First Up and Open to install Brian's filament hanger. OR, just lift the front "handle" area for a "normal opening.

WHY? -
The "PRO" started life as a potential Food decorator and "Laser" etcher. Accessing "stuff" thru the top would therefore be handy. But as a 3D Printer (rushed into a placated production unit per Chuck Hellebuyck' speculation and I concur) anyway 3D printers don't need the top to come off so the little "foulers" were cast onto the Hinge Pins. Once the PINS / TRACKS are modded, the lid becomes VERY useful.

Happy printing...

Wow, that sounds like a good modification.
Do you mind sharing some photo's of what you have done?

Brian - Soooo sorry I have no photos.However, when I'm done printing today I'll pop the lid off and take some.
It does work so sweet - printing with an XYZ cart now and your Spoolhanger is hangin' with NO issues.
Thanks for asking...

Dear Lucapinello,

The filament holder is made for the biggest 2KG spools I could find, but if there are bigger ones out there, I will be happy to create a bigger holder. Could you provide me with the correct size you would like to have?

When the holder is mounted, you can still open the top panel completely but to do so, you have to slide the panel a little to the front. Take a look inside your printer at the corners where the top panel is mounted, then you see what I mean. There was no other way to design the holder because it needed some strength, so it had to be this thickness.

Yes you have to remove the holder when using cartridges, but why using cartridges ;-)
They are tripple the price of spools, thats the whole idea of this excellent printer.

If you have the Z axis problem, go to the HOME AXES function in the UTILITIES menu. The idea is that you learn the printer where the steppermotors are at this moment. After you have done that, you can use the Z axis again. If this function would not have been inside your printer, you could easily damage your steppers when bringing the bed down.

As for the noise, this is normal. It could be better, but the printer would have been more expensive then. This is a very cheap Bowens type extruder and that's what you get. Build in a better extruder and the noise is gone. :-)

I have done some testing with flexible filament, but without succes. The Bowens type extruder is not made for flexible filament. You want the extruder to be right above the nozzle if you want to work with flex filament.

Thanks a lot for the detailed response!

Very happy to be part of this really active community.

I have made measurement for my largest spool is it 10cm X 18cm.
So if you make the arm a little bit more than 18cm it should work perfectly.

About the flexible filament on the stock extruder, I guess we have some hope: http://www.ninjaflex3d.com/products/cheetah/

Many thanks again!

Wow, this Cheetah filament looks great. I will pre order a roll.
Thanks for sharing.

It will be sunday or monday when I am going to rework the spoolholder, but I will let you know.

Fantastic! Thanks a lot!

Has anyone had the issue with the LCD screen giving you the two solid black bars during a print?

It only happens to me if I go to check on the print and press the home button. The printer finishes the print just fine, so I am not too worried about it, and after powering it off/on it goes back to normal.

After putting in a ticket they wanted me to send my printer in. I sad no. My printer isn't perfect, but it could be a lot worse lol.

Hi Bromego
Yes. Unfortunately the printer I am wrangling has the LCD screen showing the two solid black bars permanently. The lights are on on the motherboard but there does not appear to be anyone home. I am keen to hear if anyone else has any suggestions for fixing this. Here is what i have done so far.
I have checked the power supply, it reads 3.3V, 5V, and 11.8V in all the right places.
I have pulled the microSD card and looked to see if it was un-corrupted. I appears to be fine.
I have tried starting it with up/down buttons pressed.
I have pulled most plugs and attempted to start it (I have yet to pull all plugs).
If I use an Arduino interface or Pronterface I cannot get a peep out of the motherboard.
I hooked it to my Linux to see if it detected if it could detect anything on the USB connection, but I'm not convinced it recognised the printer board as being there. I think I need to test this a little more thoroughly.
I have yet to start swearing at it.

Because I am not the user of this printer I do not know what lead up to this error/failure appearing. Nor do I know what the firmware is. The XYZware in use at the time appears to have been version

What I intend to do is reflash the firmware into nonexistance, and load an old firmware to see if that gets it to turn over and start putting meaningful things on the screen.

Any ideas are welcome.

I just got off the phone with xyz tech support, finally fixed my calibration failing for mine the front right metal tab with the screw the sensor probe should touch was missing it. after trying various fixes it turned out that the print head carriage wasn't straight when it was all the way foreword, the two black plastic clamps? that hold it onto the side rails weren't even, the left side would make contact with the white belt wheel, but the right was about a 1/4 inch away from the right side. had to take the side panels off and loosen the screws holding the wheels and manually getting the black clamps to jump forward on the belt teeth so it would also touch the front right wheel it now will calibrate but its very close to not hitting the metal tabs in the front a design flaw.

Just curious, has anyone that's updated firmware continued to have the SD card error? I had the error every time for the last maybe 10 runs on two of my machines but since the update have not seen it. Did they actually fix something or is it just coincidence?

I have never had any errors what so ever. So I'm scared to do the firmware update. I keep saying no

I was the same way. I didn't have any trouble before the update. I had an issue where calibrations only failed after I did the firmware update. I did a calibration right before the update, and it was fine. After the firmware update I kept getting calibration failed, and I discovered it was no longer touching the front right edge when calibrating. I had to put a little piece of foil taped to the bed for it to finally calibrate. I have opened a ticket with XYZ, and have received a response that they are forwarding to the engineers to test. I also suggested they open a forum on their site. It's a shame they don't have one.

Have this same issue. The head does not come forward all the way. When I gets to the front of the bed I grab the bars and pull, it clicks forward and makes contact. Probably not good that I'm popping the belt like that but it seemed to be the only way to get the head to come forward all the way. Sucks.

I am with you bud, don't fix what ain't broken.

I did the software update (reluctantly) and have had no issues so far.

I noticed after the software update that if I convert to inches, and then try to scale the item the software crashes. It seems to scale fine when I just stick to mm. Sucks for us US type people. My brain can only picture an items size when it's in inches. lol I just switch to inches after I scale now to check the size so I can picture it.

My brain is slowly turning to metric.

Mine never got used to inches :-)

After changing the card to aLexar card, I never had the issue again.
Don't know if the firmware did any good in this regard.

Been using my Pro for some weeks now.

Till now no real problems except the FAIL when calibrating and getting none XYZ filament to stick.

Re: FAIL: Cleaning the metal corners and little contact on the head always fixed it for me!
The calibration does work, but I'm way better of now doing it manually (with paper). It is way quicker and easier!

Re: XYZ filament to stick: I've had a hell of a time to get filament to stick. I tried about every heating combination possible. Still fails. Problem was the glue! I used some cheap Pritt glue imitation... When I changed to the real deal, all worked fine!
I'm now even printing on a glass plate. Printing on glass works perfect, ease to clean, and no more need for sticking tape on the bed!

Anyone here figured out how to keep the light on during printing?
Sometimes it does stay on, and sometimes it does not?
I'm sure it's some kind of combo.. Push home xx times, or push it for x seconds, or do something when door is open!
I need the light as I'm monitoring with a camera.

The light is controlled in the energy settings of the printer.
When you switch off the energy safe mode, the lights will stay on.

(Sorry, my printer is at home and I am not, therefore I can't tell how the function is really called in the menu)

As for the sticking on the aluminum bed... I use Kapton tape and UHU glue. Best solution ever for ABS. For PLA I use blue painters tape and also for Nylon and PetG I use the painters tape.

Found the light control. Thank you.

re: sticking.
Yes. I still have a roll of +20 meters Kapton, and this works also great. Same with painters tape.
However putting it on (especially the 220mm wide Kapton) and removing it without having to realign the bed is a pain in the a$$

Give glass it try! You will not go back :-)
If so, do not forget to adjust the z-offset accordingly!

kapton tape is really easy to apply if you are using the wet method, zero bubbles every time


I also use Aqua Net Hairspray (unscented). much better adhesion than glue sticks, goes on easier, and more even (in my opinion)

I use kapton tape directly on aluminum bed, then spray Hairspray.

I tried glass before, i bought a 3mm thick piece but couldn't get good adhesion (I think too cold) do you mid sharing what you did?

For printing on glass I followed this howto: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=RjxPnECQ7_E (I'm n03l in the replies)

Bed temp is set to the max (90c).
I use a business card to measure the distance between the bed and head. (like the paper trick, but with a business card)
No warping what so ever on the ABS. (like printing on Kapton tape)

When done printing I need to get the project off the glass before it cools down to much.
I still need to put a lot of force into it to get if off. When it's cooled down it's almost impossible.

that is surprising. I used to own a Da Vinci AiO with glass and found the abs would shrink when it starts to cool down and you can hear the cracking. Once fully cooled it wasnt that big of a deal to remove.

Maybe use a different glue, I used to use the purple elmers glue sticks, It was great because I could see it go on purple and then it would turn to clear once heated.

Thanks so much for your post, it is super helpful! I have been getting the calibration fail message and have been trying to adjust the print bed to as close to the right level as possible. I have tried your method as well as adjusting using paper, and it prints pretty good, but it just not as good as when it was perfectly calibrated. It still measures all 4 points, but it doesn't give me any number, so I cannot further calibrate it anymore. Any advice?

The calibration function on the printer is absolutely useless I promise you are better off ditching it and just get more comfortable with the manual calibration method. You will get much better results. I haven't ran calibration on my printers in months I have three of the PROS I run them 24/7 with the exception of stopping to do a mod or repair and they run beautifully with the manual calibration.

Where's the printing options? I am using a MacBook with XYZWare Pro. I execute the app, import an STL and execute the print. However, the 'Printer' menu is blank and I see no option to affect print quality, fill or she'll thickness. What am I missing?

I think what you are missing is the Windows version of XYZWare.
Not that the Windows version is that special, but as I have heard, the Apple version is even worse.

This weekend I am going to buy an Apple Macbook Pro, So I will test it out and write my comments here.
As for now, I don't know what is different, but I am soon to find out.

Just got my da Vinvi Pro last week and I'm new to the group, hello everyone! Not sure if this'll be worth creating a new post over, so please let me know if I should do so.

So far the machine has been working great with the ABS it came with and my spool of Hatchbox PLA. But I'm having some very odd issues with a print job I've been attempting since last night, I'm thinking a problem with the XYZware (of course). It starts out fine, printing up the brim and the rest of the first layer. But then it gets to a couple of support towers and seems to print the exact same spot 10-20 times, causing the plastic to just make a big crater and inevitably ruining the whole print. I have absolutely no idea why it's doing that, but the machine is clearly following the instructions it's being sent.

Here's a video I managed to catch of what's happening: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=sHkQiTfMMOs

And here's some more information about the print.

Screenshot of XYZware for Pro highlighting the problem spots: http://imgur.com/WoPdEOj

Original model: http://www.shapeways.com/product/84MB527W3/blue-dragon

Exported .3w file: https://onedrive.live.com/redir?resid=B1B5E35B76B7CF46!395326&authkey=!AHe-DHyUDbsLa1s&ithint=file%2c3w

Okay, there could be a few reasons why this is happening.

  • The original file could be telling the printer hes to use another extruder with a different layer height, for example because of dissolving filament.
  • The original file has errors and you creat a .3w file out of it, copying the errors
  • The slicer of XWZWare doesn't understand sh*t about this file (I guess this is the problem)

You could try to place the object somewhere else on the printbed, or try rotating it. This sometimes helps.

Otherwise, I don't know...

I don't think it's either of the first two, since the problem is on the support structures that XYZware adds.

This was my 4th attempt at this particular model. The earlier ones I was having trouble with adhesion or it messed up the raft (new to using PLA, didn't have my temps down). The 3rd time I tried I moved it to a different location on the bed since the tape was undamaged there, but it did this repeat layering thing there too.

I've been toying around with using slic3r as detailed in a couple other threads here, but I haven't had much luck yet. When I import the file into XYZware it seems to think the origin is at the corner of 100x100 instead of 0x0 in the center of the bed so only a quarter of it is even in the print area, and I can't move the already sliced model around the bed.

I'm really liking the printer, but man this software they use sucks...

take the file into meshmixer, and check to see if there are holes in the file (ones even you cant see) although something may look good to us, ones and zeros of a 3D file to a computer are much different.

I personally use meshmixer supports, much less waste, but there is a learning curve how to get good prints.

Below is a link to repair files, maybe try these? I have found when XYZware slices something wrong, even if I simply load and save the same file in meshmixer and then export it, I get a better slicing result.


I'll give that a try, thanks!

I did eventually get a good print out of it. I accidentally opened the STL file with Windows 10's built in 3D Builder program and it popped up a notification about auto-fixing some stuff. I figured why not, let it do it's thing and saved it as a new STL file. After that it sliced and printed just fine in XYZware.

Is the calibration test using a continuity measurement between the bed targets and the extruder cal probe? If so, has anyone traced the wires that carry this signal?

Yes, it are the blue ones
They carry the signal, but ohms law comes in place here. The resistance is the main issue here.

Right. Cleanliness of the contact points. How "abrasive" do you get with the wire brush? Any recommended detergents or solvent?

No sorry. I just calibrate the old school way.
Just bring up the print bed with the Z axis menu and then use a piece of paper to calibrate the printbed.

This works way better than any other method.

Might want to edit your printer settings bit. See the printer settings are used when you are loading and unloading filament, so if you have the temp set low and are trying to load ABS, you could run into a huge issue with the printer not extruding properly. Also PLA users can turn off the bed and make calibration really fast.

Just received the Pro yesterday. Initial print done under the firmware that came before 1.2.3. I followed the video tutorial and calibrated the bed, receiving instructions to turn each of the three screws. A couple minutes later I had "Perfect" level. Printed beautiful. Updated to 1.2.3 firmware and now the calibration "Fails" every time. I performed the procedure outlined in the first bullet above, no joy. I used the wire brush and visually inspected the nozzle assembly and bed targets, all clean (I even used a methanol wipe to clean any residual hydrocarbons from these surfaces). Still no use, "Fail". Any suggestions? What is this Old" calibration procedure I see mention of (using a business card)?

I had the same issue, I guess why keep recalibrating if the last time you got a perfect calibration.

I just got the pro also and got the same error I found that it was missing the front 2 metal peaces of metal for the so to fix this i just put tin foil across it

I just got the pro also and got the same error I found that it was missing the front 2 metal peaces of metal for the so to fix this i just put tin foil across it

Zen prophet, I'm not tracking. Can you post a pic or video of the areas where the metal is missing? I'd like to compare the visual condition of yours to mine.

Im out of town right now. ill post the pics as soon as i get back.

Nice to find a group about this printer. I Believe it will be a great printer once the kinks are worked out. Mine came with a broken door over the power switch/ usb/ power plug, area and the front panel's clip is broken on the right side. I've also been having that knocking sound ever since switching to pla by hatchbox, now I know what it is I will be calling support about it. Also my calibration no longer works. Fails no mater how much I clean it. Also had a print today fail at the 12 hour mark, it just started printing the next layer a half a cm over. the print was firmly attached to the bed. taking it off was a challenge. So I have no idea why it did that other then it decided the X/Y was now different half way. Any idea how I'd box this up? it came with biding straps to keep it in its box I doubt tape will be strong enough.

I am printing abs with speed of 30mm/s and it maken more mechanical noise. Does anyone also have that ?

Added some new problems and solutions in the main text.

I've created a public Facebook photo album showing my PTFE tubing repairs, as well as a push-in connector replacement. Some of you might find the photos useful... some may not. I show the DaVinci 1.0 Pro in various states of disassembly, and there are quite a few detailed photos. Feel free to check it out, if you're having issues.


Wow, I missed this posting a few days ago...
Thanks for posting this. Very Usefull !!!

Does anyone have played with other programs then the xyzware for pro? I want to print something but it does not finish its slicing.
It takes more then 15 min and still not finished. When i try Slic3r it takes a few seconds. I tried a online gcode converter to 3w but i do not really trust it because you can not see the settings for the printer.

slice with slic3r
save gcode
open gcode in notepad++
delete the slic3r header
add this header-
; filename = composition.3w
; machine = daVinciAW10
; material = abs
; layer_height = 0.4
; total_layers = 30
; total_filament = 501.40
; extruder = 1
G21 ; set units to millimeters
M190 S90 ; wait for bed temperature to be reached
M104 S210 ; set temperature
M109 S210 ; wait for temperature to be reached
G90 ; use absolute coordinates
G92 E0
M82 ; use absolute distances for extrusion
G1 F1800.000 E-1.00000
G92 E0

change the temps here to what you want them at
select all
plugins tab-> MIME Tools-> Base64 Encode
then save as (Filename).3w
open in xyzware for pro

let me know how you make out

Does this still work in firmware 1.2.3?

I don't know I don't ever upgrade

Okay, I just managed to slice a hollow 20mm calibration cube stl I found on here with slic3r and changed the heading to the above. It's printing now and seems to be making the cube as expected, but the LCD never changes from the 'Initializing' screen. Am I missing a code that tells the printer to switch over to that monitor mode? Also, it doesn't print the two strips on the side of the bed to get the nozzle flow started. Are those also lines of gcode that the XYZ slicer adds to the start of the job?

just as Brian stated below, however in Slic3r you can print a ring around the object, this dose the same thing as the strips from XYZ but you can choose to print more rings to prime your hot end.

This is a normal thing.
If you work with Slic3r, you won't get normal info on your printer LCD. Also, the stripes on the side of your print bed are generated bij de XYZWare slicer and will therefore not be available in any other slicer.

Okay...but...the XYZ Software slicer is just creating gcode and sticking it inside the .3w file before transferring it over to the printer (where it's pulled right back out of the .3w file and processed as gcode). That means the code that's printing the nozzle flow strips AND switching the printer over to the temperature monitor mode lives inside that gcode created by the XYZSoftware...which means it can be added to the top of a slic3r gcode file.

if you really want to. you can pull the SD card out and stick it into you computer and open the gcodes that are saved on it (the printer TEST PRINT files) in notepad++ and cut out the header your looking for... but you will also have to fill in the information for every print you do like number of layers, etc.

Interestingly I've already done that...but there were no gcode files. The three samples on the sd card were .3w files. I need to figure out how to convert those back to gcode files again. They're no longer just base64'd versions of the gcode. :/ Someone in another thread on here posted a more complete header replacement that includes the code to switch the machine back over to the temperature monitor screen. I'm hoping I can give that a shot tonight.

That sucks. The old machines had just g-code files on them...

I would be very interested in that code.
It would be nice to have the temperatures displayed while printing Slic3d prints.

Here's the post: http://www.thingiverse.com/groups/da-vinci/topic:3950

The header that displays the temperature and time information is in nobber's post from the 29th. From what I gather, the 'time left' portion is still not correct. I suspect that the printer is using the layers information (layer height, number of layers) from the header to figure out the time left, so I think a possible solution might be to figure out a way (if possible) to get slic3r to provide the number of layers so that calculation can correctly be made.

You can always view the current real time temps threw xyzware on your computer

I would be very interested in that code.
It would be nice to have the temperatures displayed while printing Slic3d prints.

Here is a guy side loading 3rd Party GCode files into his Da Vinci 2.0 3D printer: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=iktQqZ-EYVc
He was also going to do this for the Pro.

True, but it seems to be so diffucult that the best software engineers of several Slicer manufacturors are not able to re-generate the G-code needed for the Da Vinci Pro...

I guess it is a bit more difficult then normal Gcode

Do also not need to change total layers and layer_height?

I never did but I did have a tall print stop n say it was done before, this is a hack job, so weird stuff will happen, I changed the height way higher and it worked fine so yeah give it a try n see what happens... also doing this you loose the display on the printer so u don't know how long till its done and you cant cancel, you have to flip the power switch

What tamperatures for the bed have you been using allready.
I use 100C a lot, but don't dare to go higher :-)

With the default masking tape it ships with, I've never had to go above 90C for ABS, and that's with no glue stick or anything else. I've had no issues with the first layer not sticking. If anything, my prints are kind of hard to get off the bed after they're done. I've actually dropped it down to 87 and 85 on the last couple of prints with no issues.

I have been using 85, heats fast and I have not had any warping, ive actually been damaging my z axis trying to remove prints... I have to replace my leveling screws they are so bent I cant turns them anymore... I have the printer ripped apart, working on a little upgrade ;) should be done by next Thursday and posted!

Sounds good, can't wait to see it.
Sounds a bit like... new hot end maybe?

I don't want to risk damaging my printer yet, but i will for sure do some upgrades after my other printer i am working on is finished.

Yea. My design is going to be bolt in. No firmware changes or rigging it to work. Just drill two 4mm holes and bolt it all back together and plug it in. Then when simplified3d releases support for the xyz pro in their next update (I already use simplified3d on my prusa i3) it will be the XYZPrinting DaVinci PRO 2.0 Baker Edition. And with all the extra room and weight loss on the X&Y carriage print speeds will be doubled with the addition of a print cooling fan.

Beat Group Yet! I just got my printer yesterday and have not been able to complete a print. The printer came with the sample cart and I have used that. Today I unloaded the sample cart to load some non XYZ PLA I purchased and when going back in to load the non XYZ PLA it says the cart is not loaded, it does not give me the option to use a non XYZ cart. Any input or idea would be appreciated!

Also printer is running latest firmware 1.1.2

Have you told the printer you are not using a cartridge?
In the setup procedure for the filament, it asks the question if you are using a cartridge or not. If you said YES on this question, the machine goes on the lookout for the cartridge and if it doesn't find the chip that belongs to a cartridge, it says you don't have one.

Just say NO if it asks if you use a cartridge and now you are good to go with your own filament.

Hope this solves your problem, good luck.

The printer no longer gives me that option. When I select LOAD FILAMENT it goes directly to the "NO CARTRIDGE PLEASE REINSTALL". It did give me that option when I first turned on the printer out of the box but since then I have not been able to get that option.

I contacted support on the issue and I am waiting to hear back.

Also, when powering the printer with the UP & DOWN buttons pressed, I do not get a bootloader screen. Is there any way to factory reset the printer? Perhaps something on the board?

Make sure you removed the cart from XYZ form the machine. If you do not it keeps trying to load the cart even if you tell the printer to use a non xyz filament.

wheres you manual to get to the feeder engine

Yes the cart is removed from the printer. Is this what you mean?

Yes that what i mean. Can you "Unload" or is that also not possible ?

Yes I am able to unload the XYZ Filament, once I unload the filament I pull out the XYZ Cart. I go into the utilities menu and hit load and the only thing that is say is reload the cartridge. Does not give me the option to choose whether I want to use XYZ or Manual load. I will attach a photo in link.


This is XYZ Cart Removed from printer and at the LOAD FILAMENT MENU

And you tried putting the xyz fillament in again? Does it load the xyz cart or also not?

Yes it will load the XYZ Cart again with no issue at all. It is frustrating

if you remove the cart and then click on cart info in the menu? Maybe that helps? I see that other also had problems with the printer thinking that a empty cart was loaded.

I did try that as well

And reading the printer with xyzware ? You can read the status and stuff

Loading Third Party Filament Issue Solved!

Thanks to thaamike for making it aware that there was a software update released today, just loaded it and was able to load my 3rd Party PLA!

I sent you message, do not wan to flood the thread

Actualy, you allready tried that.
Powering down the machine for 15 seconds and then switching it on with the up and down buttons pressed should indeed bring you in the reset state. You don't see it though. It looks like a normal boot, but it isn't. This kind of boot also works when for example flashing the firmware failed.

Must be something else going on then. I will wait to hear back from XYZ, thanks for the input, I will update once I have found the issue.

I just unpacked and set up a new Da Vinci 1.0 Pro and I'm troubleshooting a substantial "platform wobble." The platform shifts from side to side at certain points along its z-axis travel resulting in alternating offset layers. In aggregate the effect produces a pronounced "ridged" effect. I know this is abnormal because if I print something tall enough it goes away; ridged turns into smooth as the platform travels down. I'd like to know if anybody has any suggestions.

Some googling suggests that this problem has cropped up before in the non-pro version. My current theories are:

  1. misaligned z-axis motor.
  2. warped z-axis rod / bent motor shaft
  3. loose z-rail bushings

These modifications are on my to-try list:

This one didn't help:

I would very appreciate any wisdom from the community.

DaVinci 1.0 Adjustable Z-Axis Motor Mount
DaVinci Bushing Retainer
by neua
Da Vinci 1.0 Z Axis Anti Wobble Bushing Simple
by neua

I had this problem and it was the aluminum bed that shifts, I put 2 little metal shims on front and side and the prints are perfect now...the bed is not glued or held in place very well so it moves a couple of mm in each direction... hope this helps... I so love my Da vinci Pro... the 2.0 is collecting dust...even if I changed the extruders for the new ones...

I also aligned the Z rod...

More than likely its NOT the z-motor shaft, the threaded one. On mine the shaft is not perfectly straight, kinda has a tiny bit of wobble at the top end you can see when its spinning. Its the other two shafts that are smooth, those guide the bed up and down, and are supposed to be fixed and 100% straight. The left one is in a grommet, the right is in sort of a U slot. The side with the grommet is what provides the smooth movement up and down. If that rod is dented, bent, or the grommet is damaged, it can cause what your describing.

Sorry to say, but you really should ship back the printer and get a replacement. XYZ's printers are either 100% perfect when you get them, or they arrive broken.

Hi achevrier,

There are more people talking about this problem here on Thingiverse.
Personaly I think that when the printer is brand new, you should bring it back and go for a new undamaged one. I had a good one when I got the third printer, the other two were crap.

The other people I heard mentioning this problem, told that there Z axis rod was bend a little, resulting in a wobble. One person I know has replaced the rod for a new one.

The modifications you listed are new to me, but I think they can be of great help also for other people.

Good luck with your printer, hope the problem gets solved soon.

How do i get the print bed all the way down? i want to lube the z axis but with jog it wil only go down 10mm max

Keep the button pressed... It will do 10mm each time.

i tried that but somehow it does not want to go lower then 10 mm in total.

It is a software bug. I cleaned the nozzle so that the bed is all the way down. Then the jog function works like it should be .....

Strange bug :-)

for those who are interested, i have uploaded the manual i got from xyzprinters on how to get to the feeder engine. It is in dutch but i think that the pictures say a lot.


To Bad...
When clicking on the link it says I have reached the end of the Thingiverse...

I am interested though...

I have mine for less then a week and I have feeder problems.the auto loader makes strange noise and it looks like one of the weels that feeds the wire is not centered. I have no idea how to fix this

My printer makes a knocking noise usually when it's printing the double line in the front right, but it's gotten worse lately and has ruined a couple of prints because the filament isn't feeding correctly.
I cleaned the feeder per instructions. Still knocks and miss-feeds.
As I was printing ChatToBrian's Da Vinci 1.0 PRO filament holder Large spools with XYZ filament I got a finished product.
As I was installing the new holder in the back I noticed that the hole where you insert the filament is worn down, not nice and round anymore.

this might be enough to cause the filament to snag and make the thumping noise.

It's something mechanical and xyzprinters are sending me a new part. And that after just 1 week

Can you discribe what the problem is or maybe make a short video and upload it to YouTube and link it here?
There are a lot of people here in this community who may be able to help you then.

Have you allready tried to feed manualy?
You can see a little metal part at the inside of the printer where the filament starts feeding through the flexible pipe. If you push that metal part to the left, you can manualy insert the filament through the pipe. I always push my filament all the way to the extruder, always without any force.

In your extruder there is a sensor that sees the filament, so you don't have to be affraid that something goes wrong with the auto feeding.

By the way, It looks the same on my printer.

I do not know if you see it in the video but the weel that is connected to the leaver is not centered. It moves around like a egg. Even without filament it makes some noise.

To be honest, mine looks the same, but it doesn't make weird noises.

I think you better contact XYZPrinting support or your local dealer then.

I will call them Monday morning and want to trade it or anything. I will let you know

Wise thing to do. Good luck.

Well i called the webshop i used and they said i need to contact XYZprinting in the Netherlands(country i live). I called them and they did see i already made a support ticket and they will look into it. They will call me back today. I hope it is easy to fix.


I called the seller and he could not help me and told me to go contact xyzprinter. I did not like that answer but ok i called them. I already made a ticket last Saturday and told that to the person. She sold me that should would look into the problem and would call me back today. I s not called still at 16:15 so i called them. The man that answered me told me that they do not use the phone to solve the problems but the tickets and that i was on his list tomorrow.

I am very disappointed in handling my problem so far to be honest. Will be continued ...


I received a part from XYZprinters that i need to replace. That after a week of waiting .........
I hope that this evening i can replace the part and that it is solved. I do already see that the weel is centered on the new part. The weel that i have now has a hole for a bearing that is not drilled in the center.

Update: I replaced the part and everything is ok now. Lets start printing again.

Still waiting for simplify 3d to work with this printer

Also, this link may be helpful. It's a complete carriage that allows you to use an MK8 extruder in the Da vinci 1.0 printer. (Not sure if it would work on the 1.0 Pro, but I believe it should.


This is BY FAR the best group about the 1.0 PRO that I've been able to find, so far. I've had mine for almost a month now, and it does give me a lot of fits. Straight out of the box, the machine's Y axis would not stop at the home limit switch... so I had to fiddle with the limit switch in order to solve that issue.

Then, of course, there is the calibration issue. It will tell me X turns to the right, then re-check everything and tell me X turns to the left. It sometimes calibrates 4 or 5 times, with very odd numbers of turns each time.

I have also had the machine simply stop printing, several times. I was doing a 17-hour print that failed at about the 11 hour mark, so that was quite frustrating. When it does this, it simply acts like the print is finished... saying "Print Done... Please Remove Object", like it's proud of itself for wasting all of that filament.

My machine also recently suffered from the filament guide tube issues mentioned here. I was able to temporarily fix the problem with the short tube inside the extruder, but now the top end keeps popping out of the black plastic plug near the stepper motor. So far, I've not found any fix for this... so my printer is simply sitting here doing nothing. I love the copper tube fix, and will most likely be doing the exact same thing. (My printer makes popping sounds a LOT, especially at the beginning of each print.)

Anyhow, this is a GREAT forum for 1.0 PRO owners, and I'm so glad I found ya'll! Thanks!

"My machine also recently suffered from the filament guide tube issues mentioned here. I was able to temporarily fix the problem with the short tube inside the extruder"

What did you do to fix the problem listed above? All the details please, because i'm new to printing, but learning more each day. I'm currently having a problem with this. I have to load the filament by hand down to that tube, and force it through until it gets to the hot end.

I had to do the same thing, until I removed the short tube and found that it had developed a kink and a small hole at the kink. My filament was getting stuck in that hole, of course, and it caused horrible popping noises while the stepper motor tried to force filament through.

All I did was pinch the kink out with some pliers and reinstall the tube "upside down", since I noticed the shape of the tube might actually work better that way. And it did work for me. I haven't had a problem with that tube since. But now the long tube won't stay connected at the top end, so I have yet another problem to fix. :/

I'm seriously thinking about removing the entire extruder and using an MK8 extruder with a custom carriage. I DO NOT like that the Da Vinci pushes filament into a tube. This is the first printer I've had that does this, and it's not a good design at all.

Good luck! :)

Has anyone figured out a fix for the filament guide tube issues at the top end of the filament coupler (black plastic plug ) mentioned by clintkc. " but now the top end keeps popping out of the black plastic plug near the stepper motor. So far, I've not found any fix for this... so my printer is simply sitting here doing nothing". I don't think the copper tube mod will fix this issue since the the other end of the coupler is defective and not connected to the copper tube. Thoughts?

I haven't seen any fix for this problem yet. The black plug acts like a "Shark-Bite" plumbing fitting for PEX (or the quick-connects on a lot of modern faucets)... but this doesn't seem to work well on the Da Vinci. I've been tinkering around with a design that uses a compression ferrule and an aluminum mounting block, but this is something I'll have to do in the machine shop (not on a 3D printer). If this works, I'll share my results.

Hey guys - sorry I'm late to the party.
I had the black plastic lock break inside the coupling also, several times.
I fixed it by searching on Ebay for
Pneumatic Brass Push In Connector Quick Release Fitting M5
the all metal connectors have metal locks. I am still on my first one, it hasn't broken yet.
problem solved
As far as how to get the connector out - I didn't dis-assemble my entire machine like I saw on the video. I was rolling! I just got a pair of needle nose pliers, stuck one jaw inside the fitting and the other jaw on the outside of the fitting, on a flat, and spun it right out. Getting the new one in this way was kind of hard, but I'm sure it was easier and faster than taking the whole printer apart!

mine push to connect fitting broke on the end coming out the stepper motor, I just ordered a bag of 10 of them on amazon.. replaced it.. on the hot end side I drilled a whole in the black top very close to the edge to keep it about the feeder tube inside the hot end, and screwed the fitting into the whole... did that about 2 months ago and I haven't not had a problem since... as for the loud clicking sounds is the filament skipping on the driver, this happens when you have to much resistance (clogged nozzle or to low temp or kink or hard bed in the feeder tube.

That's what I am doing, too... instead of machining a custom bracket for the filament tube. I have all of the body panels off of my machine, and I'm making several upgrades while I've got it opened up. On my machine, several of the small metal gripper teeth inside the push-in connector got bent (and/or broke off completely), so the tube was free to slip out of the connector when there was too much force inside the tube. (And you're right... that can only happen when filament is jammed at the extruder end.) I also bought some new PTFE tube along with the connectors, so I'm hoping that both are of better quality than what came with the machine.

Eventually, however, I believe that I'll be replacing the factory extruder with an Mk8 extruder. I do not like the idea of pushing filament through a tube... that's ridiculous. It should be pulled in at the extruder, right before the hot end. :)

I am having this same problem and have ordered the parts suggested for the patch. However I can't for the life of me figure out how to remove the panels surrounding the extruder motor any suggestions.

Runaak, that is tricky to explain. First, you have to remove the side panels, which isn't hard at all. Of course, the top lid will come off when those are removed. I also loosened the top/front panel and removed the front door, so I could access the U-shaped black plastic panel that covers the lid.


This photo shows 2 small screws that are in the black plastic cover on the front side of the filament drive motor. They cannot be accessed without removing the U-shaped black plastic panel. (Or making small access holes, which I did). You can probably replace the push-in connector and the PTFE filament tube without removing the small front panel, but I removed it anyhow. The screws also hold down a small circuit board, so be careful.

It's really not that hard to do all of this... it's more difficult to explain it, actually. :)

Comment has been deleted

I'm thinking on implementing a similar solution. Frustrating, the printer is just sitting idle.

I ordered these from Amazon in an attempt to create a new coupler (Push-to-Connect Fitting) to fix (band-aid) the issue just to get the printer working again until permanent solution is found. Frustrating, I thought about returning it for another one, but will probably run into the same issue with the replacement.



BTW, don't buy this, one side of the connector is to big for the filament tubing.


Hello Banks7,
the second one you ordered, does that fit in de Davinci ??
Does it have the same screw-threath as the original in the Davinci 1.0 PRO, or did you make adjustments??
Does it tighten the tube enough to make filiament-transport possible??



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Wow, thanks for your compliments.
I am just a frustrated 1.0 Pro owner who shares his problems, nothing more than that... I found the help of other Pro owners extremely helpfull, so all the credits go to the other people here with their great comments.

The sudden stop issue without error seems to be the same as the issue that gives the SD card error. I have read from other people that replacing the SD card by a good quality card from a big brand, helps to solve this issue. I use a Lexar card, and I don't have any problems.

The calibration... Well, don't bother to have the thing telling you how to calibrate. Do it the old fashioned way with a piece of paper or a buisinesscard. When my machine says the bed is correctly calibrated, I know I have a big error :-)

My longest print took me 31 hours and is 17 centimeters high. It looks perfect. The Pro is a great machine, you only have to learn to master it :-)

31 hours! I assume you were printing with supports.

If so, I HIGHLY recommend downloading meshmixer (free software) to slice off overhang areas, move them to just above the print bed, and then glue them back together. I was able to make a 17 hour print in just 6 by printing the 17 hour piece in two pieces.

Meshmixer also has a support feature built in that uses much less filament than the way XYZ Ware does. If you do use Meshmixer's overhang support feature, just make sure you add a couple more support columns. One isnt enough.

Hey guy's have you seen the new video on youtube xyzprinting channel? it shows how to use the laser engraver add-on.
so if it's out that means the laser is coming soon I hope...it looks very easy to change also just one cable... cant wait to try it...

sorry you guys are having so much trouble with prints sticking to the bed...mine works great and rarely has a problem yet...lol... have not tried my kapton yet... this forum is just great for us...no xyz haters... thanks for all your info...

That's an upgrade I wil definitly buy...
Can't wait for it.

I will note as well that within 3 days of using my new PRO, I got the SD Card Fail error. I opened the back and looked, found out its using a really cheap ADATA Micro SD Card. I took it out, copied the files off it to a new 8G San Disk Micro SD and out that in. Problem solved, now been nearly a month of printing and the error has not ever returned. I highly suggest everyone do this, as ADATA is one of the cheapest pieces of Junk when comparing Micro SD Cards....

Found where the Micro SD card is. Any tricks on getting it out to replace? mine seems to be stuck.

The card does NOT pop out, rather you have to take the top cover and slide that gently to the rear of the card, it will then unlock and swing upwards (away from the board) and let you take out the sd card.

Is it as simple as copying over all the files on the micro SD to a new one, or is there something else?

Yes, its that simple. The card is merely fat16 formatted and has 3 files on it, which are the sample stl's. It may or may not have another file which is the last item you printed; that file is erased each time you start a new print.

can you use one larger than 8g

can any of the other printers use a 32gig sd card

I just used a 4 gig I had laying around, but you prolly could use up to 32 gig, it would not hurt the printer to try it out. But I wonder why you would want to? 4 gig is way more than any STL you would ever print could fill, so anything over 4 gig would be wasted space never used...

I would say quality over quantity in this case."Class 10"


I've owned a 1.0 for about a year now (not a PRO, i know, but i believe they have the same / similar print beds + extruder).

I get calibration FAIL every time I try to calibrate the machine - the bed is so high up that the twisty things are almost at their limit, however if I have it any lower, the nozzle is just toooo far away from the print bed. What can I do about this?


The height of the bed is set by de Z value in the software of the machine. I don't know if this is the same for the 1.0 as for the pro, but the twisty things are not ment for rising or lowering the bed, they are only used for leveling so that it is straight.

Set those twisty things somewhere in the middle and if the bed is not high enough, adjust the Z value. Then level the bed with the twisty things. (screws, screwnuts, I don't know how to call them).

Ooh, how do I change my Z offset?

this may sound like a dumb question but have you cleaned the extruder and the metallic plates the calibrator touches?

The Da Vinci uses current to calibrate the bed, so if the surface is dirty it might be able to recognize when its touching.

Yea, I clean them quite frequently. However when it tries to calibrate the bed comes up to the sensor and then keeps going, pushing down the spring. it's almost as if the sensors have never worked - i've always calibrated my bed manually.

Then try this. Take your wire brush and start the calibration sequence. When the extruder goes to touch the bed, touch the extruder with the wire brush. This will short the calibration sequence "thinking" it has touched the plate. If that doesn't work it then you might have a loose wire somewhere

Thank you ! :)

Will give this a shot.


If that doesn't work you could change your Z offset to be lower/higher so that you are not at the end of your screws

Ooh, how do I change my Z offset?

On my Pro its Utilities >> Z Offset

Ah, if you mean in the printer menus, that doesn't seem to be an option on my 1.0 :(

thanks anyway though, i'll see if I can find another way around this! :)

This is such a great post. I had a lot of these figured out but the ones I didn't are VERY helpful! Thanks ChatToBrian!

Your Welcome.
If you have any suggestions to complete this story, please share along.

I got the usb card error but at midprint...had to cancel and i will try tomorrow... What a strange error to get, i hope they fix these little problems in the next update...

I have had this error several times now but luckily never midprint.
I have removed the backplate and removed and re-inserted the SD card and after that the problem was gone.

I have also had this problem while updating the firmware from 1.1.1 to 1.1.2 and that scared me a lot.
Called the support of XYZPrinting and they told me to switch off the printer and press and hold the up and down button while switching back on. The printer then starts in it's bootloader. After that I could again update my firmware to 1.1.2

Scary as hell, this kind of problems... But up to now, I could always find a workaround.

As soon as there will be a non XYZPrinting firmware for this machine I will switch. Hope that will include normal Gcode as well.

Thanks! Brian... very helpful. did you try flex filament yet? I will when it gets here...

No, have not tried Flex yet.
Have played with PLA (witch is perfect with blue painterstape) and ABS (with the same tape and some glue stick).
That works fine now and all the prints come out perfect.

I want to try Nylon and Flex, and also Woodfill, but I haven't done that yet.

Regards, Brian.

I have no trouble whit abs sticking to the masking tape that came with the pro, it sticks very well.. I am used to using glue stick with my 2.0... can we print on the aluminum plate with just the glue stick... and I have purchased Kapton tape... and taulman t-glasse... trying PLA tomorrow... thanks...

Wauw. Just saw a video about the T-Glass filament and that looks great. Let me know how that came out?

printed with the t-glase and it was almost perfect at 235c and 80c bed 4mm retraction. will continue to fiddle with the settings . but all in all very pleased with the results...never was able to with my 2.0... have not received my ninjaflex yet...hopping to try during the holidays... cheers! also got some xtc-3d and that's very nice also...

thank you for info, very useful!

No thanks, you are welcome,

Hey Brian,
Does the filament bug (hack) still work or has XYZ fixed the bug?
Thanks, Carter

It's not yet fixed.
Your Welcome, Brian.

The Da Vinci 1.0 PRO is my first 3D printer. I was a little dismayed at how little documentation there was.
Most of how I learned to use it was from watching the videos for their other products. Hopefully they'll get around to updating the site info and support sections.

Calibration issues:
I found that using the glue sticks residue would prevent the calibration points from working correctly,
Using a warm moist microfiber towel laid on top of the platform softened what ever was on the corner contacts, and a good scrub seemed to help and several attempts at cleaning the silver post on the print head also helped in some cases.

ABS warping:
When working with ABS I definitely found out that ABS juice is your friend. https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=3BdFAv0nHCo
a simple solution of 100% Acetone and ABS scraps, makes a thin slurry.add a thin layer of it on the masking tape and the first layers consistently stick.

ABS Juice (or Slurry) is perfect.
Sometimes you realy wonder how to get your object from the plate :-)

I use dental floss to get tough prints off my print bed, works every time without scratching or ruining your print bed.

My experience was similar and after having the AiO, this printer was no cupcake.

  • The black coupler is a joke, my guide tubes always were coming out ruining my print, and the guide tube from the coupler the extruder was too short. This required me to manually load filament every single time I changed filament. I fixed that with this mod, I HIGHLY recommend it!

  • I also had many issues getting the prints to stick to the print bed, or they would stick too much ruining the tape. I have since switched to Kapton Tape and Aqua Net hair spray. No more delamination or warping what so ever.

Now it runs like a dream, and I am very happy with it performance. I have gotten the SD card error twice now, but only at the end of the print (so i must count myself lucky) assuming the slicer didn't copy over the "END.gcode". If you find a solution let me know. I dont want it to throw up the error mid-print like you.

bromego, thanks for your advise, I had this problem just a couple days ago, I did something similar but using the same plastic tube that the printer came with. anyways, after I fixed this issue, the filament was still blocked by something else which I wasn't able to figure out, but the problem that this caused was that the filament tube was poping out of the push fitting that is on the filler motor.
I tried gluing this tube to the push-fit didn't work, the pressure from the filler motor is so strong that pops out the tube over and over, basically I couldn't even get to load the filament.
I called XYZprinting (took me about 10 tickets, and 20 calls till they finally answered). They basically said, you are under warranty still, so pack it up and send it back.
Now I'm thinking about buying a different brand, can you give me some advice please?

bromego -- thanks for sharing that fix. my printer has essentially had the issue from day one (I've yet to get a reliable print out of it). What's weird is that it actually has fed a couple of times, then during the printing the feed somehow got messed up. I would have thought that once the filament actually made it into the last "hole" it wouldn't misfeed -- but somehow even after printing the entire outline of the "Demo" print base, it works its way out of the tube and I've got a mess... Can I assume that after making this mod you've had no issues?

Also -- question on the Kapton tape -- I've gone to their web site - can you tell me exactly which one you're using?

Thanks gain for the advice...this is the ONLY place I've found that actually points me into a fix for what appears to be a sound design flaw on XYZ's part...


  • yes, after the mod I have had absolutely no issue. I have had to use a couple zip ties to secure the new metal feed tube to the print head, (like in the link) but other than that. absolutely no issues.

As for it coming back out, that may be something with the feeder gear system, maybe your filament is stripped? (try cutting off a 1 meter) or your retraction is WAY too far. The filament feeds a good 20mm into the print head after the last "hole". I have my retract length at 6mm, "Activate Threshold" at 2mm In the print settings.So it should never come back out.

Try downloading something and printing something else besides the demos, they could have settings that may not be desirable. (ie retracting lengths too large)

I bought it off amazon. I do have to cut a little bit off the top where the print bed sensors are at, but other than that, its a perfect fit.

And i recommend using this method to apply. Makes a big difference! I use a credit card, and leave the print bed attached inside.


Ok -- so, was able to get the filament to feed with some help from XYZ support (completely other story on how hard it was to actually talk to someone there today...).

I still think I'll try to use that modification you've designed, but for now, i'm printing. Printed the sample first, then 2 designs I'd created -- but noticed the first layer isn't sticking that great on just the tape (supplied in my printer box).

Couple of additional clarifying questions -- the amazon link you provided is extremely helpful I'm planning to order a couple of 10 packs. Just to be clear...is that more or less a masking tape (like was supplied with the printer -- 3 sheets)s? Or is it really that sepia looking film as shown in the YouTube video? It looked like masking tape from the photo, but I'm not sure. Anyway, the question I've got is are you saying to get a glass platform for the top of the aluminum deck? Or just apply that square directly to the platform? I'd rather apply straight to the platform so I don't have to worry about an offset (and it seems like it would work better with keeping the temperature consistent).

Also -- I see you mentioned the use of a hairspray -- Aqua Net -- on the tape? I assume that would aid in the adhesion for the first layer?

Thanks again for the tremendous advice...for a while today, I thought I was returning this printer and searching for a replacement -- the da Vinci price point is just too good to pass up though!

It is completely different than the masking tape provided with the printer. Yes it is the Sepia looking film in the video. Kapton tape is thermally stable tape used by my 3D printer owners.

I applied mine directly to the aluminum print bed in the printer, and yes the aqua net helps hold down the print. (Very well)I was having horrible luck with masking tape too, that is why I switched to kapton tape.

Before every print I quickly spray the print area with the hair spray and cover the back screws with a piece of printer paper. Just so that overspray doesn't coat them. Probably no necessarily I just figure might dry them out, and I prefer to keep them lubricated.

If you get the aqua net, make sure it's the unscented. I dont know why I just read somewhere the unscented works better.

Learned this from a hair stylist friend. Scented is less sticky because to make it smell pretty extracts or essences are used and contain a percentage of oil distilled in alcohol.
it's the oil that you don't want on your print bed.