I just bought some clear MakerGeeks PETG to test with an e3d v6 mod on my 1.0. 250/100*, 50mm/s - bed gap @0.1mm and ABS juice on the bed, ran great. I turned the bed down after a few layers as it was a bit too sticky & the part seemed a bit too jello-y to keep it going.
I was running 0.3mm layers to see how clear I could get it. I could see it having bed adhesion issues at lower layer heights, but I usually run 0.3mm first layer anyway.
Printed REALLY nice - better surface & dimension than ABS. I'm planning to buy more.
Just a hunch, but I don't know if my stock hot-end would have liked PETG. It feels 'soft' on the finish & when I had ABS that felt similar, it would clog after 30-45 minutes of printing time. Same ABS is fine on the e3d (same temp/speed settings as before, same Gcode, actually).. I think it had something to do with the heat break & nozzle shape.
Thanks for the info. I have found a really good write up http://forum.makergear.com/viewtopic.php?f=11&t=2593 but I am specifically looking for the settings in S3D. I need a starting point because reading around, settings are all over the place.
How exactly is it failing?
I use S3D as well (via Octoprint rather than USB from the laptop).
I started with the same ABS profiles that I've used for months, just upped temps & dropped speed. I saw 240-260, so I started with 245. It worked fine until I tried to up the speed - needed 248-250. I started with 95 bed, adhesion wasn't great, so I went to 100.
It extrudes at the beginning of the print fine. It prints a couple of layers then it starts to click. Not sure if temps are too low and its jamming up (had temps anywhere between 230 and 255) or if its trying to retract too far. (Retraction is 3mm). I will work a little more on it tonight. I was just hoping someone had some known good settings to start off with. As you know.... its not just the hot end temps its kind of a complete system approach.
I suspected I knew your issue, but wanted to make sure.
3mm Retraction seems a bit long, but see my hunch above. I used 2.4mm with the stock hotend & 1mm now with the e3d. I had some MakerGeeks red & some hatchbox Gold/Silver that would do just as you said (I have many other colors/spools from both makergeeks & hatchbox that do not have this issue).. Sometimes 3 layers, sometimes it would go for 2hrs, then it would click/strip & air print. It had the shiny, soft feel to the outside of the filament that PETG does. I tried retraction, temperature, speed, etc & nothing seemed to work. 270* and 20mm/s worked the longest, but it also is rough on the machine & was discoloring the filament..... It got worse as my nozzle wore out / got smoked from hitting it with a torch to clean the jammed filament.
e3d with same settings as other 'good' filament works fine with the red/gold/silver now (printing the silver right now actually, gone through half a spool this week).
I think the heatbreak/nozzle design on the da vincis is a limiting factor. It's cheap, but it also doesn't have some features that other hotends have. I have not had a click/strip/clog/air print with the e3d.(Probably 60+ hrs of print time). I correctly guessed that the e3d would fix my problem with those filaments. But then again, I just put an almost $100 hotend on a printer that I got for $400. Being able to print PETG was a nice surprise & I'm glad I spent the $.
Jinxed myself, had a bed adhesion catastrophe with the crappy silver ABS last night..... Shoulda kept my mouth shut :)
Heh. so I boxed up the PETG and gonna return it. I think my extruder cuts off at 250 and goes back down and turns back on around 210. The filament no longer comes out and then it starts stripping the filament. Until I upgrade my extruder, printer or both. I will stick to ABS. Thanks for trying to help though.
I also print with Maker Geeks PETG on my 1.0. I have a MK8 style setup with Chinese E3D V5 style tip.
I print at 250/70 on gluestick.
It works so well I can print at anything between 0.3-0.1 without having to look. After loading the filament, I can print like I'm printing a Word Doc. "Print" via OctoPrint and go.