Creality 3D Printers and Accessory Deals
Creality 3D Printers
Creality3D Ender-3 - Banggood
The infamous Ender 3 has become the new standard in quality FDM printing with a price that is easy to swallow.
It features V-Slot bearings, fast printing, and large build volume (220x220x250mm). The Ender-3 is suitable for beginers and the go-to machine for pros.
$9.99 off with code: En33D02
Creality 3D Ender-3 with glass bed + 5x nozzles - Gearbest
The Ender-3 with a tempered glass build plate and 5x 0.4mm nozzles.
Creality3D Ender-3 Pro - Banggood
This is the Ender-3 with a few upgrades including more ridgid 40x40 Y-Axises and removable cMagnetic platform.
$14 off with code: En3P01
Creality3D Ender-5 - Banggood
The newest member of the Ender series. A large build volume of 220x220x300mm, a box frame, (power) resume printing function, detachable Cmagnetic build plate, east leveling and 350W Landy power supply.
$20 off with code:en3d501
Creality 3D CR-X - Banggood
Color touch screen, larger printing size (300x300x400mm), dual extrusion system with a single nozzle and three fans to help cool extruded filament and improve consistency in layering.
$50 off with code:en3d501
Creality 3D LD-001 Desktop - Banggood
Desktop LCD Light-curing 3D Printer, 120x70x120mm, 3.5" color touch screen, WiFi and automatic leveling
$30 off with code:LD3D01
3D Printer Accessories
Upgraded Long-Distance Remote Metal Extruder Kit For Creality CR-10 3D Printer - Banggood
Replace your plastic Creality 3D extruder with this Metal Aluminium Anodised kit to improve performance and print quality. It has 5 star rating from more than 200 reviews of this product.
Creality 3D BL-Touch Heated Bed Auto Bed Leveling Sensor Kit (upgraded version) - Banggood
No more dorking around with trying to level your build plate when you install this unit.
$7 off with code: crmb01
BIQU TL-Smoothers Addon Module For 3D Printer Motor Drivers - Banggood
While protect your motors and electronics while delivering smoother movement with less vibration for better quality prints.
Creality 3D Flexible Magnetic Build Plate - Banggood
Say goodbye to prints jobs that stick to the build plate. Throw your scraper away with this upgrade.
$2.41 off with code: crbs3D01
Prices and delivery times are dependent upon the warehouse selected so choose accordingly.
Creality3D Ender 3 Thingiverse group
Having problems with your Ender3? See Ender 3 Troubleshooting
For the latest deals visit Creality 3D Printers and Accessory Deals
Visit Banggood or Gearbest for a huge selection of affordable products and components for the Maker.
maybe you can help me. I have an ender 3 v2 for 3-4 weeks now. I've dug into the topic like a madman and know quite alot already. I adjusted each and every screw, checked belts, tensions and everything.
Overall i'm really happy with the printer and the results / quality.
But.. I have an issue and i hope i can express that clearly... whenever something breaks a monotonous extrusion, like a hole in a wall or some Text and stuff.. i get a very visible line - always at the beginning AND ending of those layer changes. I cant seem to find an answer on the internet. I have quite clean extrusions in generel.. so there is no general z banding or hopping or anything else - at least i think so.. its only when there is a change in layer extrusion or a lot of top layer, like that one special line on a benchy where the boat floor is printed.
Just as im writing this little article and look at the pictures, i realise there are regular small lines too.. i try to show them with arrows..
Do you have a clue how i can fix this?
I just got a glass bed cover for my ender 3, but even after leveling the bed, the printer seems to be skipping the bottom few layers of the print. I've tried to relevel the bed multiple times, and it's getting hot enough to adhere to the base, but it still doesn't seem to work. If anyone else has had this issue and can offer some advice, it would be greatly appreciated.
The title say it all to be honest.
I start by auto homing, then I get a post it note and level it. The nozzle isn't too far from the bed, and it is equal everywhere. However, the moment I go to print the nozzle is quite far from the bed (enough that adhesion is a problem)
There is one reddit post on this exact issue (https://www.reddit.com/r/ender3/comments/apt7d2/nozzle_too_high_during_printing_but_height_ok/). The Top comment says it could be the z axis stepping too far. Is there anyway to check this?
It could also be some sort of offset, but I can't find any mention of this in the gui.
Is it worth resetting the EEPROM to make sure?
I have provided two images to show. The images that shows the hight while printing is approximate. I didn't want to try and capture the height while it was printing, so I went by memory. It is probably slightly lower than shown (nowhere near as low as the other image shows though).
I just saw an old question about ABS prints on ender 3, and decided to write a few words. It may be helpful, since I learned everything on my own mistakes.
First, good old question about magnetic bad, default one. Everyone say that you shouldn't go over 80 degrees, or it will stop sticking. It's not entirely true. Probably it would loose some magnetism, but it's more likely that you'll destroy sheet itself. Since I wanted to go for glass bad, I didn't care too much about destroying it. So the most important thing about magnetic bed - do not remove until it's cold, and never use spatula or anything similar to remove model, and more important - do not use acetone to clean surface (I did...). About temperatures, I was printing ASA on magnetic plate for one week with 100 degrees bed temp (just a little hairspray over it.) What actually started damaging is magnetic bed - while removing magnetic plate, small parts started chunking out (never under 100 degrees). So it is possible to print on magnetic bad, but only if you wait for glass so you don't care about destroying default bed.
When I got Creality glass, I decided to remove magnetic bed, but not before I tried it first. It is possible to print with glass on magnetic bed, but it's dam hard to remove glass, even after cooldown, so I removed magnetic bed (heat on 110, and carefully remove it from one corner to the another). After that, I removed alu plate and washed it with some stuff used for cleaning car engines. It wasn't perfectly flat, so I used alu tape over one side of the bed and got perfect results. After setting up everything, the biggest problem was bed leveling. I fixed this problem with printing this: https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:4078927, with default springs, I level my bed every 1 month, with few models printed every day. But I was able to print small models, bigger ones started to wrap after 5 cm on Z axis. I tried to dissolve plastic in acetone, to use tape or hairspray, but at the end, hairspray works best for me. I spray only one layer from about 15 cm distance, away from printer, and wait few minutes to dry. After printing, I wait for it to cooldown to about 50 degrees, then I put it in the fridge. After 5 minutes, I remove model easily with just touching one edge with spatula.
All of this worked great, and I found online that you can wash glass bed with alcohol - but I didn't found that you MUST NOT wash it with acetone. After washing with water and soap, I noticed small parts of plastic, and used few drops of acetone for that. It turned out that acetone make damage. It wasn't anything big, just some places started whiting a little. What actually was the problem, is what came after that. ABS/ASA is known to make dmg to glass, sometimes it's possible for small pieces of glass to just pop out. That's what happened to me, on that places where I used acetone. I turned glass on other side, sanded it a little with 1000 and 1500 sand paper ( sand it in circles, without pressure, so it's not visible without a light). It also worked great, but after some time it started to pull out new chunks of glass. It's really small, and you can still print on that without any issue, even surface on bed print same. But that's only for some time, because that spots will become deeper, and then you'll notice on model small shadow and uneven surface. I continued to print on this test models, or something small that do not touch weak spots.
I found some BuildTak PEI sheets on discount, so I ordered 2 pieces 10 x 10 inches. That's 254 x 254 mm, so I cut it to 235 x 235 mm (cutting PEI is easy with razor blade or similar). Since my glass was damaged a lot on front size, I decided to put one layer of aluminium tape over glass. BuildTalk PEI sheet come with adhesive, but since I have some tape that leave glue on surface when removed, and there's alu tape on my glass, I used it too. After I tried it, I putted PEI sheets onto two other glass beds I use. It's that good for ASA plastic. No need for any adhesive, and models pop out after cooldown (few drops of water or fridge do the job for models that don't want to remove from plate).
About enclosure, that was first what I did with printer. Since ASA need equal temperature during print, I used styrofoam with glass on front side so I can see what happen inside. Styrofoam keep temperature equal, so when I print with 235 and 105 degrees for bed, temp inside is 40 degrees of celsius, no matter on outside conditions. I use 12 mm fan with flexi aluminium pipe for ventilation, with 3d printed active carbon filter. For higher temperatures just slow down ventilation fan speed, and it go to 50, or 60 degrees. Printer stay on table in corner, and drying box is under the desk, same as electronics). I drilled holes in desk so filament go directly to printer without touching outside air (I used tubes from medical infusion, 0.3$ for 3 filament spools). I printed parts for 20l box and used silicone on connections to seal it properly.
I am still working on drying box, in next days I will upload model together with photos of my printer. Now it's time to do some upgrade on printer itself.
I got some linear rails and I am waiting on new X, Y, Z extrusions. That's all for durability of printer, but I also want to increase quality, so any opinion on what to buy/make is highly appreciated. I want all-metal hot-end and dual Z axis, but not sure what to do after that (with other bearings).