Hello,
I have done a few mods, filament guide, bearing and housing for leadscrew,fan guard, glass bed, new springs etc.
I am now at the stage, thinking about new main board and possibly control panel
I ask, control board, I will have no problem installing, what I have never done, is update or flash firmware !!
I see many boards out there, I think I am swayed to creality
I welcome anyones advice please
Hello,
I have done a few mods, filament guide, bearing and housing for leadscrew,fan guard, glass bed, new springs etc.
I am now at the stage, thinking about new main board and possibly control panel
I ask, control board, I will have no problem installing, what I have never done, is update or flash firmware !!
I see many boards out there, I think I am swayed to creality
I welcome anyones advice please
So i use it's stock heatsink fan, and CR10_VOLC_MANUAL_BASE from https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:2759439/files on my ender 3 pro
And i keep getting heatcreeps. Is it due to the retraction distance of 5.8? As i was told it could be the retraction distance as i can print 3 or 4 30mm tall benchies for my GF for a game she's making, then it clogs. should i go direct drive instead?
Temps: 215 PLA
Bed: 76 (glass bed on thermal pads)
Speed: 35mm's
Retraction: 5.8mm and 38mm's peed with bowden
Hello,
I have done a few mods, filament guide, bearing and housing for leadscrew,fan guard, glass bed, new springs etc.
I am now at the stage, thinking about new main board and possibly control panel
I ask, control board, I will have no problem installing, what I have never done, is update or flash firmware !!
I see many boards out there, I think I am swayed to creality
I welcome anyones advice please
Hi. I just got a v2 for my E3, and installation went fine, it starts up with the installed Marlin 1.0.1, but that's where i'm stuck. My only means of putting a .bin on an SD is using my phone, then placing that SD card in the v2.
After inserted then printer turned on, it just starts as usual with the already loaded software. At this point, if i pop the SD in and out, it registers inserted or removed, but i get "No TF Card."
If quicker/easier, updating the Firmware via USB is fine, too, i'm just not technical, eager to get back to printing. :) I've tried three different SD cards, no luck.
Thank You for any help.
I was having chronic problems trying to print a retraction test with my Ender 3. I had recently replaced the stock extruder with a Micro Swiss all metal hot end. Being a bit "ham-fisted", I managed to break the thermistor soon after that. While changing that, I learned a bit (maybe not enough) about thermistortable11.h, calibrating thermistor profiles and configuring Marlin. Long story short, I got myself deeper and deeper into trouble until I could not print anything without clogging up the heat break by the time the printer started layer 2.
I found a useful thread on the same issue in another group and the mystery was solved.
Since I don't see a similar discussion here, I thought I would post the link: https://www.thingiverse.com/groups/i3/forums/general/topic:6463
Basically, one tradeoff of using the all-metal hot end is that retraction distances more than 4mm are likely to pull softened filament up into the cool end, the extruder may then "jam" the soft filament in the heat break, when it pushes back down.
I have still to investigate how much stringing this limitation is going to leave me dealing with, but at least restricting my retraction distance to 1.5mm in Cura has resolved that clogging problem.
BTW - The Cura 4.3.0 end G code for Ender 3 also retracts the filament at the end of a job. For some reason, two successive commands each retract by 2mm, for a total of 4mm. Hoping I don't regret it, I have removed one of those retractions, thinking the worst case will be when a print job ends with a retraction command, followed by the end Gcode retraction command(s).
So I am kind of a noob to 3d printing but had an idea that i have yet to see for bed leveling. if u got a thin say 0.01mm sheet of metal then put it on the print bed, connected it to ground, had a led connected in series with the hot end and connected to positive. that when z axis is all the way down u could raise the bed till the Led turns on? or u could have a nail level with hot end or something stick down to touch the bed? would cost only a few bucks and u could use the 24V from power to run led.
I just got a glass bed cover for my ender 3, but even after leveling the bed, the printer seems to be skipping the bottom few layers of the print. I've tried to relevel the bed multiple times, and it's getting hot enough to adhere to the base, but it still doesn't seem to work. If anyone else has had this issue and can offer some advice, it would be greatly appreciated.
So.... I just bought two Ender 3 V2's for work. This isn't my first 3D printer. We have an Ultimaker 2E at work, but it is old and lonely. And I have a Qidi X-One at home.
We were running into annoying "traffic jams" with the UM2E. Sometimes we needed to print something, but the UM2E was in the middle of a 24 hour print, or it was down for maintenance. We needed some redundancy and extra bandwidth.
I debated for a long time about what to get. I could have gotten another Ulitmaker2, but I could get a lot of E3V2's for $3,000. And LOTS of people seem to have great success with the E3 family. I didn't need a giant printer, we are printing "fist-sized" PETG parts.
What are the DAY ONE upgrades you would recommend? I know that I could go crazy and turn it into a monster if I wanted to, but what are the more basic necessary mods I need to make? 3D printed? Purchased?
So far I have bought:
I plan to get a new extruder. Which one? Ezstuder? Plain Jane All Metal Extruder?
I plan to add the squash ball feet.
Thanks.