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Cannot update Firmware to new v2 board.

by e47b

Hi. I just got a v2 for my E3, and installation went fine, it starts up with the installed Marlin 1.0.1, but that's where i'm stuck. My only means of putting a .bin on an SD is using my phone, then placing that SD card in the v2.

After inserted then printer turned on, it just starts as usual with the already loaded software. At this point, if i pop the SD in and out, it registers inserted or removed, but i get "No TF Card."

If quicker/easier, updating the Firmware via USB is fine, too, i'm just not technical, eager to get back to printing. :) I've tried three different SD cards, no luck.

Thank You for any help.

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Dual Extruder Troubleshooting (Slipping, Thumping)

by dmgraciano

Hey all,

I recently got a dual extruder for my Ender 3 Pro (IDEX dual extruder) and I'm having trouble printing with the second extruder

The second extruder has a habit of failing mid print. It can’t extrude the filament, and makes a slipping, thumping sound when printing, causing there to be incomplete infill. Here's the strange thing though, when I stop the print to check the filament, it's not clogged. If I extrude some PLA after stopping the print it comes out just fine.

I’ve tried increasing the temperature, changing the nozzle, and slowing down the print, but it continues slipping. I tried doing a test print file with two different color blocks and that file printed successfully, but this other file continues to fail. Both files use the exact same print settings. Something interesting to note is that even in the test block print, I hear occasional slipping, but the print still comes out successfully

I’m thinking it has something to do with either the extruder motor, or the print settings, but I’m not completely sure. I’ve ordered another brand of bowdin tube as well in case that’s the problem. I’ve also attached the file I'm trying to print, the test file I made, and some pictures of what the failed print looks like. You’ll be able to see the weak infill the higher the print goes and stringing in the photos

Please let me know what you guys think, I feel like I'm reaching the end of ideas I've got. Thanks

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Not seeing correct voltage on parts cooler/mainboard fans

by jakedeloera

Had a mainboard fan die on me the other day, so I decided to upgrade to some quieter Noctua fans on the extruder head while I was ordering fans. Replaced the mainboard fan with a 24V BTT fan, and the parts cooler/hot end fans with Noctua 4020 12V fans. I went to install and calibrate the buck converters, and got 24v fine off the hot end fan leads, but I'm getting mixed readings on the PC/MB fans. For whatever reason, upon setting the fan speed to 100%, I'm only getting a max of 10.5V that will peak at that upon turning on that setting, but then usually slowly drops to around 9~V where it'll stabilize. The MB fan is small enough to start with this voltage, but the Noctua fan won't even start spinning until it sees 12V. I upgraded to a V2 screen as well, and when setting the fan speed to 150%, it'll show 12V. I tested the power supply voltage and got 24V, tried swapping the mainboard, kind of at a loss here. Any insight would be appreciated!

Update to this already: it looks like swapping back to the old screen and flashing firmware for that results in it putting out the correct voltage when the fan is set to 100%. Right now it looks like the V2 screen/firmware doesn't call for the same voltage when set to 100% as the stock screen and I'm not sure how to address this particular issue

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BIGTREETECH SKR Mini E3 V2.0

by dawg645

Hi,

I just ordered the BIGTREETECH SKR Mini E3 V2.0 to replace the Creality 1.1.5 board that I toasted the other day. This SKR version (2.0) seems to be fairly new so I was wondering if anyone has had any experience setting this up with Octoprint and BLTouch.

Thanks.

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Upgrading stock Ender 3

by bossblue

Hello,
I have done a few mods, filament guide, bearing and housing for leadscrew,fan guard, glass bed, new springs etc.
I am now at the stage, thinking about new main board and possibly control panel
I ask, control board, I will have no problem installing, what I have never done, is update or flash firmware !!
I see many boards out there, I think I am swayed to creality
I welcome anyones advice please

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Upgrading stock Ender 3

by bossblue

Hello,
I have done a few mods, filament guide, bearing and housing for leadscrew,fan guard, glass bed, new springs etc.
I am now at the stage, thinking about new main board and possibly control panel
I ask, control board, I will have no problem installing, what I have never done, is update or flash firmware !!
I see many boards out there, I think I am swayed to creality
I welcome anyones advice please

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E3Dv6 heatcreeps.

by Duckers_McQuack

So i use it's stock heatsink fan, and CR10_VOLC_MANUAL_BASE from https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:2759439/files on my ender 3 pro

And i keep getting heatcreeps. Is it due to the retraction distance of 5.8? As i was told it could be the retraction distance as i can print 3 or 4 30mm tall benchies for my GF for a game she's making, then it clogs. should i go direct drive instead?

Temps: 215 PLA
Bed: 76 (glass bed on thermal pads)
Speed: 35mm's
Retraction: 5.8mm and 38mm's peed with bowden

Petsfang Duct for CR10 MicroSwiss/Stock/E3Dv6/Volcano/TevoTornado /Tarantula Hot End/E3Dv6 CNC Mount & 5015 fan Bullseye Blokhead
by dpetsel
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Upgrading stock Ender 3

by bossblue

Hello,
I have done a few mods, filament guide, bearing and housing for leadscrew,fan guard, glass bed, new springs etc.
I am now at the stage, thinking about new main board and possibly control panel
I ask, control board, I will have no problem installing, what I have never done, is update or flash firmware !!
I see many boards out there, I think I am swayed to creality
I welcome anyones advice please

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Chronic Clogging in MicroSwiss Heat Break solved

by WhatWouldAnEngineerDo

I was having chronic problems trying to print a retraction test with my Ender 3. I had recently replaced the stock extruder with a Micro Swiss all metal hot end. Being a bit "ham-fisted", I managed to break the thermistor soon after that. While changing that, I learned a bit (maybe not enough) about thermistortable11.h, calibrating thermistor profiles and configuring Marlin. Long story short, I got myself deeper and deeper into trouble until I could not print anything without clogging up the heat break by the time the printer started layer 2.

I found a useful thread on the same issue in another group and the mystery was solved.
Since I don't see a similar discussion here, I thought I would post the link: https://www.thingiverse.com/groups/i3/forums/general/topic:6463

Basically, one tradeoff of using the all-metal hot end is that retraction distances more than 4mm are likely to pull softened filament up into the cool end, the extruder may then "jam" the soft filament in the heat break, when it pushes back down.
I have still to investigate how much stringing this limitation is going to leave me dealing with, but at least restricting my retraction distance to 1.5mm in Cura has resolved that clogging problem.
BTW - The Cura 4.3.0 end G code for Ender 3 also retracts the filament at the end of a job. For some reason, two successive commands each retract by 2mm, for a total of 4mm. Hoping I don't regret it, I have removed one of those retractions, thinking the worst case will be when a print job ends with a retraction command, followed by the end Gcode retraction command(s).

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