General

Hey guys,
maybe you can help me. I have an ender 3 v2 for 3-4 weeks now. I've dug into the topic like a madman and know quite alot already. I adjusted each and every screw, checked belts, tensions and everything.
Overall i'm really happy with the printer and the results / quality.

But.. I have an issue and i hope i can express that clearly... whenever something breaks a monotonous extrusion, like a hole in a wall or some Text and stuff.. i get a very visible line - always at the beginning AND ending of those layer changes. I cant seem to find an answer on the internet. I have quite clean extrusions in generel.. so there is no general z banding or hopping or anything else - at least i think so.. its only when there is a change in layer extrusion or a lot of top layer, like that one special line on a benchy where the boat floor is printed.

Just as im writing this little article and look at the pictures, i realise there are regular small lines too.. i try to show them with arrows..

Do you have a clue how i can fix this?

The title say it all to be honest.

I start by auto homing, then I get a post it note and level it. The nozzle isn't too far from the bed, and it is equal everywhere. However, the moment I go to print the nozzle is quite far from the bed (enough that adhesion is a problem)

There is one reddit post on this exact issue (https://www.reddit.com/r/ender3/comments/apt7d2/nozzle_too_high_during_printing_but_height_ok/). The Top comment says it could be the z axis stepping too far. Is there anyway to check this?
It could also be some sort of offset, but I can't find any mention of this in the gui.

Is it worth resetting the EEPROM to make sure?

I have provided two images to show. The images that shows the hight while printing is approximate. I didn't want to try and capture the height while it was printing, so I went by memory. It is probably slightly lower than shown (nowhere near as low as the other image shows though).

I just saw an old question about ABS prints on ender 3, and decided to write a few words. It may be helpful, since I learned everything on my own mistakes.

First, good old question about magnetic bad, default one. Everyone say that you shouldn't go over 80 degrees, or it will stop sticking. It's not entirely true. Probably it would loose some magnetism, but it's more likely that you'll destroy sheet itself. Since I wanted to go for glass bad, I didn't care too much about destroying it. So the most important thing about magnetic bed - do not remove until it's cold, and never use spatula or anything similar to remove model, and more important - do not use acetone to clean surface (I did...). About temperatures, I was printing ASA on magnetic plate for one week with 100 degrees bed temp (just a little hairspray over it.) What actually started damaging is magnetic bed - while removing magnetic plate, small parts started chunking out (never under 100 degrees). So it is possible to print on magnetic bad, but only if you wait for glass so you don't care about destroying default bed.

When I got Creality glass, I decided to remove magnetic bed, but not before I tried it first. It is possible to print with glass on magnetic bed, but it's dam hard to remove glass, even after cooldown, so I removed magnetic bed (heat on 110, and carefully remove it from one corner to the another). After that, I removed alu plate and washed it with some stuff used for cleaning car engines. It wasn't perfectly flat, so I used alu tape over one side of the bed and got perfect results. After setting up everything, the biggest problem was bed leveling. I fixed this problem with printing this: https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:4078927, with default springs, I level my bed every 1 month, with few models printed every day. But I was able to print small models, bigger ones started to wrap after 5 cm on Z axis. I tried to dissolve plastic in acetone, to use tape or hairspray, but at the end, hairspray works best for me. I spray only one layer from about 15 cm distance, away from printer, and wait few minutes to dry. After printing, I wait for it to cooldown to about 50 degrees, then I put it in the fridge. After 5 minutes, I remove model easily with just touching one edge with spatula.

All of this worked great, and I found online that you can wash glass bed with alcohol - but I didn't found that you MUST NOT wash it with acetone. After washing with water and soap, I noticed small parts of plastic, and used few drops of acetone for that. It turned out that acetone make damage. It wasn't anything big, just some places started whiting a little. What actually was the problem, is what came after that. ABS/ASA is known to make dmg to glass, sometimes it's possible for small pieces of glass to just pop out. That's what happened to me, on that places where I used acetone. I turned glass on other side, sanded it a little with 1000 and 1500 sand paper ( sand it in circles, without pressure, so it's not visible without a light). It also worked great, but after some time it started to pull out new chunks of glass. It's really small, and you can still print on that without any issue, even surface on bed print same. But that's only for some time, because that spots will become deeper, and then you'll notice on model small shadow and uneven surface. I continued to print on this test models, or something small that do not touch weak spots.

I found some BuildTak PEI sheets on discount, so I ordered 2 pieces 10 x 10 inches. That's 254 x 254 mm, so I cut it to 235 x 235 mm (cutting PEI is easy with razor blade or similar). Since my glass was damaged a lot on front size, I decided to put one layer of aluminium tape over glass. BuildTalk PEI sheet come with adhesive, but since I have some tape that leave glue on surface when removed, and there's alu tape on my glass, I used it too. After I tried it, I putted PEI sheets onto two other glass beds I use. It's that good for ASA plastic. No need for any adhesive, and models pop out after cooldown (few drops of water or fridge do the job for models that don't want to remove from plate).

About enclosure, that was first what I did with printer. Since ASA need equal temperature during print, I used styrofoam with glass on front side so I can see what happen inside. Styrofoam keep temperature equal, so when I print with 235 and 105 degrees for bed, temp inside is 40 degrees of celsius, no matter on outside conditions. I use 12 mm fan with flexi aluminium pipe for ventilation, with 3d printed active carbon filter. For higher temperatures just slow down ventilation fan speed, and it go to 50, or 60 degrees. Printer stay on table in corner, and drying box is under the desk, same as electronics). I drilled holes in desk so filament go directly to printer without touching outside air (I used tubes from medical infusion, 0.3$ for 3 filament spools). I printed parts for 20l box and used silicone on connections to seal it properly.

I am still working on drying box, in next days I will upload model together with photos of my printer. Now it's time to do some upgrade on printer itself.

I got some linear rails and I am waiting on new X, Y, Z extrusions. That's all for durability of printer, but I also want to increase quality, so any opinion on what to buy/make is highly appreciated. I want all-metal hot-end and dual Z axis, but not sure what to do after that (with other bearings).

Ender 3 v2 hot end assembly intermittently vibrating shaking on the x axis. Checked belts are okay and hot end assembly moves freely when machine is off. Appreciate some help please

Here is a video showing the problem which starts at 1:33
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=-PC9HrSQckE

I have had this issue for a while now and can't figure it out. It just started one day. When I begin a print from the home point it will move up the Y-Axis but not across the X-Axis. If I use the control options to move the X-Axis it will move back and forth by .1mm, 1mm, and 10mm no problem. I tried pushing the wires in to make sure they weren't loose, but if they were then I wouldn't think the manual Move options would work either. Any ideas?

This is my first print using ABS. The layers started splitting. My setup is 235 degrees in the head and 75 degrees on the bed. 20% fill rate. I have no problem using PLA filament. This is my first Enden 3 Pro. I had a DaVinci Jr. which only print PLA. They are trash system. No way you can modify. Pulse you can only use their filament. Can anyone help me with this.
Thanks
David

Ender Pro 3 (Marlin 1.0.3), slicing with Cura 4.10.......

I am trying to program the printer to stop at given layer # (to change filament color) then resume (after changing the filament color) with a knob press (or turn). I have tried everything I can think of and watched every applicable YouTube video.

The closest I got was inserting "Pause at Height" gcode with Cura.
The print will pause and I can change the filament. HOWEVER the LCD display reads "PRINT PAUSED" and I can not restart it with a knob press or turn.

If I use the LCD menu and choose "Pause Print" and then "Resume Print" the print will end.

On the YouTube videos, the LCD reads... "Click to resume" (I don't see this)

I've tried a plethora of settings on Cura and can't get it to work this way.

Thanks, in advance for any suggestions, tips or GCODE.

So posted this topic earlier, and had to figure out the file thing. So just would like some thoughts on how to make the center "shaker section" easier to print? The rest I think will print ok but not sure if the threads will match, and the threads aren't printing that great.

Thank you!

I have a strange thing with the ender 3. Using CURA for all my prints. I setup a normal not complicated print. 2hours and 2min into the print it stops. No error message on the screen. It stops like its finished? I dont know how that happened and I can not get that file to print, Is there even a setting in cura that will tell a printer to only print a part of a print job?

Thank you for any advice,,