by ejredding

So my dog test print prints perfect but when I slice things in cura with the settings everyone on YouTube said to use it seams to be under extruding when I slice my own prints but the test dog prints 100% perfect i don’t know what to do any replies would be greatly appreciated

Help Troubleshooting
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HELP Broken Part on X axis assembly

by Ghemor

I recently got an ender 3 and while building it i noticed a small silver paddle over a red button on a board on the x axis assembly had broken off. (picture) i tried to re-attach it stupidly with glue on the top so that the metal piece could still hit the button. too much glue, boom messed up the button. i'm trying to replace the part but cant find what its called... any help?

broken broken_parts creality_ender_3 Ender_3 Help
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Retraction Settings?

by Threop

Hello, I've recently noticed that some of my prints' infills aren't very strong as a result of the printer not retracting properly. I've turned combing on/off, as well as z hop settings on Cura. However, they just don't seem to work. My perimeters are doing ok, and the printer hasn't had any major issues. Could it be that I need to calibrate my printer? I'm not sure. Thank you.

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Ender 3 power connectors

by TheDarkSun


I am relatively new to 3D printing and I was looking at some helpful videos when I came across a video (https://youtu.be/4yDp9frWkcg) about some faulty ender 3 power connectors that were crimped instead of soldered, and so were leading to fires. I can clearly see that my power connectors have been crimped (see attached photos). I do want to be able to do longer prints and so is it worth soldering them myself? And if so, how should I do it?

Any help would be greatly appreciated.

dangerous Ender_3 Help power_connector soldering
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Printing with Filkemp PETG; Experiencing Difficulty with tuning

by creative_username

I recently received an Ender 3 Pro for Christmas and have had outstanding success with Hatchbox PLA. The only modifications I have done on the printer are a Vent Ring V2 Lowered, Beeper Silencer, my Camera Mount (Coming Soon), a lowered filament guide, and cable chains for the gantry and the bed. All of which were printed with Hatchbox Performance PLA (Black) and HBx White PLA. For my birthday, I got a 1kg spool of Filkemp Translucent Red PETG, a spool of NinjaFlex Water TPU (I have not tried this filament yet), and an E3D v6 0.4mm Hardened Steel Nozzle. All things regard hardware are stock, and the warranty is still valid (as in I have not made any modifications that would void it, i.e., BLTouch). Additionally, I am running Marlin v1.1 and slicing with Cura 15.04.06 (32-bit, yes my laptop is from 2009, came with vista, now runs on Win7 Home Premium). I will add pictures of my somewhat successful prints later when I can get them.

So, the reason for this post:

The Ender 3 is perfectly capable of printing PETG temperature and precision wise, however, I am having trouble with things such as first layer height for the raft, raft extra margins, print resolution, printing speed, and some of the "Fix Horrible" selections in Cura. I am aware of what the Fix Horribles do, but do not know which ones are most applicable. As for the Print Speed, the only way I have a chance for a successful print is the following Settings:

First Layer Speed: 20mm/s
Infill Speed (@ 30% infill, 15% overlap): 50mm/s
Top/Bottom Speed (@ 0.4 mm wall thickness and 0.4 mm Top/Bottom Thickness): 35mm/s
Outer Shell Speed: 35mm/s
Inner Shell Speed: 40mm/s

Retract distance: 4.5mm
Retract speed: 50mm/s

Extruder Temp: 237C
Bed Temp: 74C
Print Speed: 40mm/s
Travel Speed: 75mm/s

These speeds are extremely slow compared to what I am able to print PLA at (i.e., Travel: 150mm/s, Print: 125mm/s, Infill: 100mm/s, T/B: 50mm/s)

The Real Question:

What am I doing wrong?

I feel like I should be able to print quite a bit faster with higher reliability than this. I don't know if it is the temperatures I'm using, if it's the bed height (The bed is NOT warped and is 100% level, Auto-Leveling with 2 Arduino R3's coming soon!), or if I'm missing something else entirely. I am using a stock Creality Magnetic bed cover, and a stock Mk10 Hotend with stock bowden extruder setup.

If I am a completely missing something, TELL Me! You won't hurt my feelings! Only restrictions I have are that I DON'T have to use Smoothers (voids warranty), BLTouch directly w/ motherboard (voids warranty), or void the warranty in any way. I am open to all other suggestions for PETG and TPU settings though.

Thanks and keep creating!

bowden_extruder creative_username Ender 3 pro Heated_Bed Help hotend mk10_extruder PETG problems stock
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