So I’m walk into my office to another printer that just failed. I assume it’s the nozzle that’s broken again so I start taking apart and putting it back together as usual. But when I try to load up new filament… To my surprise it’s actually the motor that’s brokenBecause instead of spinning clockwise it’s twitching in place. Cool so I’ll just order a new motor… The new motor had the same problem, twitching in place. I thought it might be the extension cord so I took it out and plugged the motor directly into the printer… and like a cartoon it started to work perfectly but in the opposite direction. I believe it’s the extension cord but I couldn’t find one online and I wanted the experts opinion on it before I buy another thing.
GeneralDiscuss on the "General" forum for the Creality Ender 3 group on Thingiverse.
So I have my Pi hooked up to my ender 3. When I am done printing and turn off my printer power supply it still receives power through the mini USB port that's coming from the pi. This is bad because it makes a horribly Noize and isn't enough to fully power the printer. The only thing I can do is unplug the USB cable from the printer and replug it when I am ready to print again. Doing this is one extra step and I would like to just be able to turn on the power supply and start printing.
Any help is much appreciated-printingjunkie
The title say it all to be honest.
I start by auto homing, then I get a post it note and level it. The nozzle isn't too far from the bed, and it is equal everywhere. However, the moment I go to print the nozzle is quite far from the bed (enough that adhesion is a problem)
There is one reddit post on this exact issue (https://www.reddit.com/r/ender3/comments/apt7d2/nozzle_too_high_during_printing_but_height_ok/). The Top comment says it could be the z axis stepping too far. Is there anyway to check this?
It could also be some sort of offset, but I can't find any mention of this in the gui.
Is it worth resetting the EEPROM to make sure?
I have provided two images to show. The images that shows the hight while printing is approximate. I didn't want to try and capture the height while it was printing, so I went by memory. It is probably slightly lower than shown (nowhere near as low as the other image shows though).
I just saw an old question about ABS prints on ender 3, and decided to write a few words. It may be helpful, since I learned everything on my own mistakes.
First, good old question about magnetic bad, default one. Everyone say that you shouldn't go over 80 degrees, or it will stop sticking. It's not entirely true. Probably it would loose some magnetism, but it's more likely that you'll destroy sheet itself. Since I wanted to go for glass bad, I didn't care too much about destroying it. So the most important thing about magnetic bed - do not remove until it's cold, and never use spatula or anything similar to remove model, and more important - do not use acetone to clean surface (I did...). About temperatures, I was printing ASA on magnetic plate for one week with 100 degrees bed temp (just a little hairspray over it.) What actually started damaging is magnetic bed - while removing magnetic plate, small parts started chunking out (never under 100 degrees). So it is possible to print on magnetic bad, but only if you wait for glass so you don't care about destroying default bed.
When I got Creality glass, I decided to remove magnetic bed, but not before I tried it first. It is possible to print with glass on magnetic bed, but it's dam hard to remove glass, even after cooldown, so I removed magnetic bed (heat on 110, and carefully remove it from one corner to the another). After that, I removed alu plate and washed it with some stuff used for cleaning car engines. It wasn't perfectly flat, so I used alu tape over one side of the bed and got perfect results. After setting up everything, the biggest problem was bed leveling. I fixed this problem with printing this: https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:4078927, with default springs, I level my bed every 1 month, with few models printed every day. But I was able to print small models, bigger ones started to wrap after 5 cm on Z axis. I tried to dissolve plastic in acetone, to use tape or hairspray, but at the end, hairspray works best for me. I spray only one layer from about 15 cm distance, away from printer, and wait few minutes to dry. After printing, I wait for it to cooldown to about 50 degrees, then I put it in the fridge. After 5 minutes, I remove model easily with just touching one edge with spatula.
All of this worked great, and I found online that you can wash glass bed with alcohol - but I didn't found that you MUST NOT wash it with acetone. After washing with water and soap, I noticed small parts of plastic, and used few drops of acetone for that. It turned out that acetone make damage. It wasn't anything big, just some places started whiting a little. What actually was the problem, is what came after that. ABS/ASA is known to make dmg to glass, sometimes it's possible for small pieces of glass to just pop out. That's what happened to me, on that places where I used acetone. I turned glass on other side, sanded it a little with 1000 and 1500 sand paper ( sand it in circles, without pressure, so it's not visible without a light). It also worked great, but after some time it started to pull out new chunks of glass. It's really small, and you can still print on that without any issue, even surface on bed print same. But that's only for some time, because that spots will become deeper, and then you'll notice on model small shadow and uneven surface. I continued to print on this test models, or something small that do not touch weak spots.
I found some BuildTak PEI sheets on discount, so I ordered 2 pieces 10 x 10 inches. That's 254 x 254 mm, so I cut it to 235 x 235 mm (cutting PEI is easy with razor blade or similar). Since my glass was damaged a lot on front size, I decided to put one layer of aluminium tape over glass. BuildTalk PEI sheet come with adhesive, but since I have some tape that leave glue on surface when removed, and there's alu tape on my glass, I used it too. After I tried it, I putted PEI sheets onto two other glass beds I use. It's that good for ASA plastic. No need for any adhesive, and models pop out after cooldown (few drops of water or fridge do the job for models that don't want to remove from plate).
About enclosure, that was first what I did with printer. Since ASA need equal temperature during print, I used styrofoam with glass on front side so I can see what happen inside. Styrofoam keep temperature equal, so when I print with 235 and 105 degrees for bed, temp inside is 40 degrees of celsius, no matter on outside conditions. I use 12 mm fan with flexi aluminium pipe for ventilation, with 3d printed active carbon filter. For higher temperatures just slow down ventilation fan speed, and it go to 50, or 60 degrees. Printer stay on table in corner, and drying box is under the desk, same as electronics). I drilled holes in desk so filament go directly to printer without touching outside air (I used tubes from medical infusion, 0.3$ for 3 filament spools). I printed parts for 20l box and used silicone on connections to seal it properly.
I am still working on drying box, in next days I will upload model together with photos of my printer. Now it's time to do some upgrade on printer itself.
I got some linear rails and I am waiting on new X, Y, Z extrusions. That's all for durability of printer, but I also want to increase quality, so any opinion on what to buy/make is highly appreciated. I want all-metal hot-end and dual Z axis, but not sure what to do after that (with other bearings).
Okay had my Ender 3 (not Pro model) since 2018 and have fixed a few things here and there, upgraded a few other things, it started acting up so had to do a little "tune-up" a while back after which it went right back to working just fine for quite a while and now "Twitchy" is once again living up to its name. And doing the oddest thing - the Y axis has a "drag" in one spot when I move the bed manually when it's off and then when it gets far enough into a print, the Y axis will "lock up" and the bed will refuse to move on the Y axis. The X and Z axis will work with no problem but the Y axis is pretty much locked down and not working. So I shut Twitchy off and let it cool off, cussing it all the while and once it's completely cooled off, I can finally move the bed on the Y axis - with a slight drag in one spot.
Now Twitchy is in a nice glass/wood enclosure me and my other half built so unless I really listen hard, it's not easy to hear the printer running but it's never really been that loud anyway so I don't know if it made any noises on the first print that it started doing this on. And the only thing I've done to it before it started doing this is move the cable connecting the hotend to the motherboard under the bed a little farther away from the bed. I've seen some people add a printed "chain" to move that cable away from the bed but I just added a Command hook to the back of my case and it holds the cable slightly up and away from the bed.
So the first time I saw this happen was on an 8 hour print and it printed the first 5mm fine then the Y axis locked up and Twitchy hasn't behaved since. I've attempted three other prints that I have successfully printed before this and each one has the Y axis lock up after a while (random timing too) and it won't unlock until the printer is completely cooled off. I've gone over the belt to visually check it for any messed up teeth (and the drag spot has now changed places after this) but I only flipped it over while on still on the axis and I haven't taken it off but I didn't see anything wrong with it. I've also cleaned inside the case and on the printer everywhere my vacuum hose could reach on the axis and around it so I'm 99% sure there isn't any debris on the axis or the belt. I've also visually checked the teeth on the motor end and those also look fine. The nuts on the wheels under the bed are tight like they should be and I also can't see anything wrong with the wheels themselves.
Now I don't mind replacing the motor or the belt or the wheels but I need to know which one to replace (and which kind I should buy) before I go fiddling around with the one of the few things (the Y motor) that came pre-installed on my Ender as I got the one I assembled myself.
So does anyone have any idea what is wrong?
I am having some bad layers and blobbing on the skin of the print. Could it be bad(wet) filament? Is my nozzle not tight and blobs are dripping down and ruining the quality? Are my Z screwS(I have the dual z motor setup) misaligned or problematic? I need help.
Just done a nozzle change and levelled bed.
I altered filament temp to 200c and bed temp to 60c, scrolled back to store settings and got the beep, I then switched off, went to filament temp it had returned to 0
For some reason I think it has reverted to default settings ?????
Can I ask, am I doing something wrong ?
Any advice gladly appreciated
I am Running a generic SN04 bed leveling sensor and need more distance. i ran it on the 5 volts from the main board, then i tried running it on the PSU's 12 or 24 volts(Does anyone know what it is?) and the distance did not change. The max voltage is 36 volts, has anyone run that and did it change the distance? also, does amperage matter and what is the max amps? I need help with this bc I changed some things and the sensor catches on a part bc the sensor is too low, and so my printer is currently inoperable. I need to raise it up. i have the stock Ender 3 flexible plastic(non-magnetic) bet with aluminum tape on the bottom.