Scratch all that. I just finished a major update regarding supports. Tree supports have now been tested and enabled, and I've made a few other tweaks for better printing as well including a retraction speed of 25mm/sec on CHEP/Elproducts reccomendation.
Oh, and also, I now realize that there is no such thing as a perfect profile; thus the change in the topic's title.
Just tweaked something to help with an issue some users were having and changed the name of the printer from "Creality Ender 3" to "Ender 3".
So... I've been tuning my Ender for well over six months now, and have consistently gotten good prints from it over the past week. I have tried several online profiles with no success so I thought I'd post mine here. You are more than welcome to make derivatives of it and post them if you find a way to improve.
Maxed out on fan speed
Changed retraction speed to 30mm/sec
Changed default temperatures for hotend/bed to 200c and 50/60c
Changed support distance to 0.165mm
My apologies, everyone!
It appears the integration of the Creawesome mod into Cura screwed with the file import. To get around this, create a new printer with the same settings as the Creawesome Ender 3 and import the profile to that printer.
For now, this is out of my hands. I'm getting in touch with the developers ad we'll see if they can fix this for the next release.
These are the setting from your profile, if like me you want to import them all manually! Hope you dont mind me putting them up here.
Only issue I have is my print went from 6 hrs to 17.5 hrs with this profile..... I'll have to tweak to get a good hour time.
I have downloaded this file but I get following message when trying to import it:
the machine defined in profile /Users/johnthiadens/Downloads/Thingiverse_Profile.curaprofile (fdmprinter) doesn't match with your current machine (creality_base), could not import it.
All right. I spoke with Cura's developers and was told this is fixed for the upcoming 4.3 release.
@JohnnyBT, @andrems and @Zeke13 stay tuned. I'll try release a profile that works by tomorrow.
Just updated the profile (again). I renamed the printer so this may have an effect on the import. The machine is now labeled "Ender 3" instead of "Creality Ender 3". The profile is in the post at the top.
Did you try renaming it?
Since this also adds a custom machine profile to prevent Cura screwing with the jerk and acceleration settings, this can cause conflicts. Try renaming your existing profile.
Also, I'm currently using Cura 4.1. I will upgrade to 4.2.1 and see if it has trouble importing the profile; if so, I'll try to fix the problems.
I'm having the same problem as JohnnyBT. Is there a way to create the "fdmprinter" as a custom printer in Cura?
I also had the same problem. I solved it by adding a new printer "Custom > Custom FFF printer". With this printer I could import succesfully the profile of Ender3Guy. But in the printer settings I had to configure the machine settings, to make them equal to the creality ender 3.
All right - I think I've solved it. Cura won't let you add profiles if the machine named for the profile doesn't exist. I'll release an update today using the stock profile with instructions on how to create my machine as well.
What version of Cura are you using? These profiles have been exported from 4.1.
What I was wondering is if there is a way for me to create a custom printer that would match yours
Gotcha. I should have results with 4.2.1 by tomorrow.
That is wonderful news. Thank you!
My apologies. I neglected to mention that the new profile was exported from Cura 4.2.1.
Try this new profile. I've uploaded it here as well as in the description; note however that the upload for the description can be picky and may not update properly so download this one.
It gives the same error.
I'm honestly not sure what's going on here. Would you be able to export you current print profile and let me have a look at it?
Here's the one I'm using right now
What version are you using
4.2.1 the latest... what version do you suggest?
At last check I know he was using 3.6, as what I still use. I'm not sure if it is an issue, but I have seen a few people have issues importing profiles. You can install a separate copy of Cura (3.6) without overwriting your current Cura. See if they upload and then if not I will try to reach out to @ender3guy for you.
Currently using 4.1. Does the profile import correctly on your version? I wasn't expecting backwards compatibility.
that's the thing, I have 4.1 and 3.6 installed on my pc so I would not have known. And I have yet to use your most recent release. Been printing PETG, a lot. So it doesn't pertain to what I need for the moment, but i trust it enough to throw it in the guide without testing
That k you for sharing!
This really helps us newb getting started. Really appreciate it
HECK IF YOU NEEDED DETAILS ON SETTINGS FOR GREAT TREE SUPPORTS i COULD HAVE GIVEN YOU THAT MONTHS AGO
Just downloaded your profiles. I will be looking through the differences and possibly making changes.
Thanks, I've used your profile today, made a couple of tweaks that can be just personal preference. Other than that, great work.
Have you had a chance to look at the Ender 5 profile? We just got the 5 and I was wondering if you think your custom Ender 3 profile will work with it.
Are there additional settings or other considerations that you know of that I need watch for between the Ender 3 & 5?
Also, I'm sure some of the settings will need to be modified but not sure where to start looking. Any guidance or pointing me in the right direction would be helpful and appreciated.
Thanks in advance!
There is really not that much that needs changing. Just double check that Cura hasn't changed the jerk or acceleration settings as it tends to do that every time you swap printers. The default jerk settings are fine, but make sure your acceleration settings are set to 500mm/sec for perimeters and 2000mm/sec for everything else.
Updated with the changelog found here:https://www.thingiverse.com/groups/ender3/forums/general/topic:37075#comment-2499973
Please give your feedback so I can improve the profile.
Yesterday i put a figure to print at 140mm height,cura was telling it needed around 6 and a half hours,but it finished at 9 and a half.
Why so off from the time that cura was telling?!With my profile sometimes was 30 or 45 minutes off but not 3 hours.
An other thing to report,i tried to print twice this https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:2921529 both times it have a major layer shift,i finally print it when i set it from my printer from 100% to 80%.
Need to check some things with accelaration.
I've updated the profile so that the gyroid infill prints at a much faster rate now. Print estimates should be much closer now, though I would suggest a 32 bit board or Klipper to get them completely accurate.
I haven't looked at the OP's revised profile, but the original had acceleration settings that were 4x normal (print acceleration of 2000 mm/s2; normal is 500). Layer shift problems could very well be caused by that. `
I thought that too,that's why he has 65mm/s retraction speed.
Even with normal speed is it good to have so much retraction?!
There are two parts to retraction: distance, and speed.
65 mm/sec is faster than normal; 40 is the "stock" speed. One of the 3D printing gurus, "Chep", recommends slowing this down to 25 mm/sec.
The stock setting for Distance is 5 mm. He has 8mm. That seems like a lot to me, but to be honest, I haven't tried going that high, so maybe it helps with certain stringing situations.
Even with 40/5 I didn't have any stringing problems.But I tried out with a busted nozzle and I had better results than the stock profile.Yesterday I print a figure but cura was saying 6:30 hours to print and took 9:30 hours.
I think this profile is printing to slow when it has to do for small distance,but the results was amazing
It appears the resolution of the gyroid infill causes the printer to slow down due to lack of processing power. I'm working on a fix for this in my new topic.
Yep that what it is, partly... I printed another cube and watched the infill and perimeter movements. The infill pause frequently Remington print the small waves in the groin pattern @ 25% infill, basically pushing the S curve factor to the max. Same goes for very small outer perimeters, where in the X and y small out movements randomly paused for half a sec to process. Again quality is great with stock. I have to take magnified pictures to show any deviations in the print surface. Will add photos before the night is over.
Hmm... I'm going to be upgrading to Klipper, but it looks like I can just add a minimum resolution in Cura. How does 0.05mm minimum sound?
So did you ever upgrade to klipper, if not I can help. I made the switch with my stock ender 3. Ever seen a perimeter do 80-100mm/s and still look ok.
Dude make the change. not so much for speed, but if you make prototypes and test prints (for mods and parts), IMO, it's a must.
If you need help setting it up on a stock ender I can help ya.
Unfortunately not as I suddently found myself drooling over TH3D's new EZboard Lite. I hate it when I have to make a choice like this...
I have noticed the increase time compared to my own profile. I have since then created a new version of this profile to play with I have printed a few things with it and so far so good.
I fixed the supports distance and ease of removal while retaining almost perfect hangs. I have adjusted the temps to my needs depending on the material used. Adjusted some speeds to fit my needs. shell settings to my needs when needed. i will have to post the entire thing for you to see all the changes.
I will appreciate if you do that
here you guy
retraction will have to be adjusted as well, as I use a Micro Swiss all metal so the retraction is shorter. let me now how it works out.
There are some things I may adjust in the support section, but other than that it works pretty well
thanks a lot,i will try it out :D
So here is a print done @ 0.08mm layer height at 40mm/s printer speed with 50mm/s (a good amount of speed and acceleration adjustments for the layer). Kinda of hard to get these layers to show on my phones camera, but I hopeyou can see what you need to see quality wise. And the lengths you can go with a 0.4mm nozzle.
It not perfect but I would say 85-90% perfect.
Basically tested the level of detail achievable with these setting, at slow speeds and the lowest layer height I would recommend.
Very good results,I tried your profile,I printed a low poly Eevee at 0.16,the results was very good for me.
Very nice very nice. I'm getting good at using Cura only been using for a month, same for using an Ender 3. Before I used slic3r or on my A8, and I just started printing in november.
Next I plan to check results with lin advanced enabled. I need to post setting and printer setup after that.
Try to torture those setting with a difficult print, nothing to big. Also double check your dimensions with a calibration cube, currently printing one now to check. As I notice with the original I was 0.2- 0.3mm to short on the x and y
Very nice results, but I am totally confused as to what profile is being used. Is it the OP's profile, unmodified? Or is it your own profile, and if so, what is it?
Sorry for the confusion. This a slightly modified version of the OP's profile you can grab both and compare. His was a great for his printer, and a great starting point for mine
Question!!!!I put my settings for the supports but they stick on the print very well and I can't get them out easily,did I miss something?!
Nevermind I found out what was the problem
OK, second try because the first posting is flagged for moderation.
Thank you for sharing your profile with us! :-)
I compared your settings with my everyday profile. Therefore I opened it in a text editor. That way I don't have to gues what of your settings Cura is hiding. At first I printed https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:3496376. I'll add pictures of the print to this posting. There are settings I love, I don't love and some I'm uncertain about. Some thoughts:
Initial layer height: 0.24mm is a good idea. The print will stick very well to the bed and it will compensate an uneven bed a little bit. But you will get an elephant foot with this setting. Maybe it is possible to get rid of that with a negative initial layer horizontal expansion?
Ironing: I tried ironing in the past and I'm not sure if I like it. I mean visible lines on the top are usually not that bad. But your setting is good. Mayby I'll give it another try.
Fan: With standard part cooling shouldn't this be at 100%?
Infill: I love gyroid and use it when possible. My print unfortunatly has a visible infill on the top. Maybe this is because of the low fan settings.
Speed/Acceleration: This seems to be very very well balanced. The movements are smooth and even. The outer walls are much more evenly compared to my profile.
Flow: I calibrated e-steps and flow for my printer. Therefore I changed this to my detected 97%.
Temperature: As you already wrote the settings are way to high for normal PLA. I started with 215°C/60°C and lowered to 210°C/50°C after the first layer.
Retraction: Usually I have 3mm at 25mm/s. This print was made with your retraction settings.
Z-Hop: Without z-hop I get scars on the top. With PLA and decent retraction settings I usually don't get stringing. So there shouldn't be a reason to turn off z-hop. Or am I missing something?
Just thought of something. My bridging settings may be affecting the infill, which would explain why the parts directly around the hole aren't affected. I'll see if I can turn it off for the infill. If not, I can try fiddling with the settings for bridging to remove that effect.
So, first of all, I apologize for the fan speed. I have a dual 5015 petsfang on my printer and forgot to change it for the stock Ender before uploading. That has been fixed, which should take care of the pillowing.
Z hop does help with the scars, but it also requires a lot more retraction. I therefore kept it off to increase material compatibility.
Temperatures have been updated to 200c.
I left the flow at 93.5% as it seems to yield decent tolerances for most PLAs, though personally I adjust for each filament.
I'm also working on speeding things up a little, though I don't know how this will effect the looks. I'm focusing mostly on the inner perimeters and infill, leaving the top skin pretty much as is.
I think Z-hop is disabled in the default Cura profile (which is fine, 0.1mm). I have seen quite a few posts that keeping this off is generally a good thing. My engineering sense agrees with this because I don't think the up/down movement of the lag screw is anywhere near as repeatable or precise as are the stepper motors driving the rubber X- and Y-axes.
That is correct. Also, Maker's Muse pointed out that the Ender seems to string like mad when Z hop is turned on. As soon as you turn it off, the stringing vanishes.
I think what Makers Muse said is vise versa. If you get a lot stringing (with a specific printer, a specific model and a specific material) turning off z-hop helps to get rid of the stringing.
And I say if I don't have stringing in my specific situation turning on z-hop helps to get rid of the scars. There is no right or wrong.
But I would like to know if the z screw really isn't precise enough and can cause other problems with z-hop. I'm not sure about that.
Personally I only had this when Z hop was turned on to 0.3mm or greater. It seemed that the layers were getting squished together, and the objects did actually get about a millimeter shorter, though reducing hop to 0.2mm solved this entirely.
Yesterday I commented because I'm currently testing your profile. I wrote some thoughts and results. But the comment is flagged for moderation. Probably because I edited it three times to add things. Obviously this isn't allowd here. :-( Who has to moderate it? Will it ever get back? Or do I have to write it again?
unfortunately you will have to post it again. If you edit a post, before to wait sometime (minutes I think no less than 2) to edit again. Or else you will be like the other, never seen again.
Grmpf... It was a longer posting :-( Ok, I'll will write it again (what I can remember). Thank you for your explanation!
I had this. It did come back after about a week, but now I've learned not to edit too often.
yea i know the feeling posted a ts guide in the group and edited a few times too fast and BAAMMM!!!! gone forever but luckily I had another page open the the same post.
Yes, I read that posting and I'm glad you had another page with it! That posting is the reason why I printed the three point tramming bar yesterday. Today I drilled a hole into the hot bed and right now the first print with three point leveling finished. :-)
YEEEAAAAA BOIIII!!!!! (in my flava flav voice). Be sure to read the 3 point leveling PDF from Makeitmakeitmakeit. IMHO it should be used in conjunction with the other for best results. Ok I'm done taking over enderguys post. If you have questions regarding it send it to me.
One thumbwheel left
looks so clean. looks like its been sculpted out of cocaine.
Thanks for everyone who has responded with suggestions. I'm currently on a mobile device but will update it later today. Improvements are:
Fan speed contantly maxed out( I have a dual 5015 Petsfang v2 and forgot to adjust the fan speed)
Default print temperatures to 200c and 60c (my PLA is a little wierd and only likes high temperatures)
(maybe) support distance to 0.165mm
Retraction speed to 30mm/sec (though my printer seems to ignore the retraction speed altogether).
I'm not changing the flow rate as I've found that 93.5% is decent for all PLAs, and will give good results for beginners who don't want to change too many settings.
Let me know if there are any other improvements you want - I'm always glad to help.
So I printed a test cube with you profile, few actually for consistency and repeatedly and I like the results. VERY even layers on the surface, the ironing on top was amazing, not a single blemish. Granted my setting are not dialed in perfectly, this produced extremely well. I will post pics of my cubes. Only thing for me is based on your settings, I will need to adjust step/mm as all sides, except the Z were under the 20x20mm on the x and y axes.
Conclusion: the profile works even at the high temp it was set at PLA. Used hatchbox pink. So use it try it, twerk it if you need to. Bit leave the quality sets as is or you not have the smooth layers that are achieved at. 4mm line widths. Test as at. 44 line width to assist the dimensional inaccuracies I had with my test prints.
HAPPY PRINTING FELLOW MAKERS
You may need to adjust the flow to compensate for a slightly smaller print. I used 93.5% because most PLAs work well with it, but it won't always produce the correct tolerances.
I keep forgetting you adjusted the flow I will test again starting at 100% after work. And I would have e to wait either way as I have an 8 hour print going at the moment
Haven't had the chanc3 to play with this yet. Just upgraded one of my Ender's to a mks gen L v1.0 w/ tmc2208s and being a family man.
Had some hurdles while doing it aka unexpected issues, but all cleared up running test with my profile then gonna try this out. Oh and can I say silence is beauty. My god how I love stealthchop always have always will. No more chirp a derp from the motors and me hearing pans flute from the response of 2 printers @ 2am
Back with results,it's pretty good and I will use this profile.A piece of advice,the settings for your support are to hard to get them off,my distance is 0.165,it's the sweet number to get them off without any resistance.
First I opened your profile in a text editor to see what settings you made. That's easier than guessing what of your settings Cura hides. I only changed the temperature for my PLA (210°C) and the flow according to my printer calibration (97%). Then I started to print https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:3496376. There are things in the result I love, I don't love and some I'm not sure about. I add photos of the print. Some thoughts:
Ironing: I'm not sure if I like it. I tried it in the past but in that print the infill was visible. This time the infill is visible too. I'm not sure if this is because of the ironing. But usually I can't see the infill. Besides that I don't think visible top lines are bad. I'll try your profile without ironing.
Speed/accelleration: This seems to be well adjusted. The movements are very smooth and the side walls are more evenly than in my past prints.
Infill: I love gyroid and the multiplier of 2 seems to be a good idea.
First layer: It's a good idea to have a first layer height of 0.24. The layer will stick to the bed very well and it can compensate a little bit for an uneven bed. Unfortunately this results in an elephant foot. Maybe this can be compensated with an negative initial layer horizontal expansion.
Retraction: For PLA I usually have 3mm at 25mm/s. To be honest I'm surprised by your settings. Nevertheless it seems to be OK with my Micro Swiss.
Z-Hop: Without Z-Hop your settings leave scars on the top. With PLA and well adjusted retraction I have nearly no stringing. Therefore I would prefer to use Z-Hop to get rid of the scars.
Fan: Why not at 100%?
Thank you for sharing this with us!
So far I see good results with your profile!!! I will report back with the final print.
Good skin on the print. After than clean your nozzle lol
The filament build up. Just a personal preference for me. I like clean nozzles, it's an OCD thing as well
I have an ocd but not that much!!
Here are a few comments for others who might want to use this profile.
First, the OP needs to specify what material is being used. Based on the relatively high temperature (225° - 230° C), I assume that this is NOT a profile for printing PLA. Most PLAs are "happier" down around 200°.
You have a 93.5% flow, 8mm retraction with a 65 mm/s retraction speed, also things I would not associate with PLA. Is this less than 100% flow designed to overcome an extrusion problem? If so, other people's Enders may not have that problem, or they may have different filament which extrudes differently.
You have an extraordinarily high print acceleration of 2000 mm/s2. Normal is 500. I would think that could be a bad thing, not a good thing. Why did you do this, and what is it designed to fix or improve?
You have a very large number of changes for bridging, and have supports turned on by default. I don't think I would do those things in a "default" profile, although they may very well be useful for getting cleaner prints for certain types of overhangs.
My supports are a little harder to remove but make for beautiful bottom surfaces if the distance is correct. 0.15mm is good for me.
I'm making several amendments based on your input; they are listed at the top.
Aside of the temperature,this profile disappeared some weird lines I had,the only thing I changed was temperature,fan speed and the infill pattern.
I have uploaded a photo of the ongoing print.
Stealing and testing and maybe add to the guide
Sounds good. I would appreciate attribution if you do add it, though it's not necessary.
Note that you'll have to adjust the flow rate and temperatures.
Of course I will everyone gets theirs. Will be linked to this post and added to the files with your username add to the filename, once tested for a while and such.