This is my first print using ABS. The layers started splitting. My setup is 235 degrees in the head and 75 degrees on the bed. 20% fill rate. I have no problem using PLA filament. This is my first Enden 3 Pro. I had a DaVinci Jr. which only print PLA. They are trash system. No way you can modify. Pulse you can only use their filament. Can anyone help me with this.
My first print (after PLA test) was ASA, and I had hard time to learn how to print with it. Tried everything, and styrofoam enclosure works best (for me). It cost 5$, and I use 12mm fan and flexi alu pipe for ventilation. Whatever outside temp is, inside is 40-45 degrees, with nozzle on 235 and bed on 105 - 110 for first layer.
Best adhesion I got with hairspray (keep part in place, easy to remove in the fridge). But what solved my problems with larger prints, it's BuildTak PEI sheet on glass. No spray, easy to print larger prints.
I fought with ABS for awhile before I built a heated enclosure for it. I keep it at 125F while it is printing. 240 on the extruder and 110 for the bed. I moved the electronics underneath with 2 60mm fans blowing across the drivers heatsinks. Now, I have zero problems with it.
What box did you use to hold the mainboard and screen under the enclosure? I have a 4.2.2 mainboard and the stock lcd screen.
I use ABS a lot and it is hard to keep large prints from splitting because of the warpage. All the tips uou have read will help (ie -- cooling, drafts, hotbox, etc) but sometimes nothing helps. Use the ABS for smaller prints and Petg for the larger ones that need strength and high temp. Good luck & merry Christmas.
FWIW I print my ABS at 265 (MS hot-end so maybe 260 for a stock hot-end) with an 80C bed temp. As stated by others, no nozzle cooling.
Print speed is half of what I use for PLA. A cheap PVC / plastic sheet enclosure makes a significant difference to success rate.
Finally, bed adhesion is handled by glue stick on top of blue painters tape on glass. Good luck!
For ABS, I run without the part cooling fan (it is a setting in the slicer), and you probably need to bump the bed temp to 100. Your printing temp is probably OK, but you may need to also bump that to 240.
I use 97.8% flow for ABS, but that is material specific and needs to be tuned beforehand using a test cube if making parts that need to be dimensionaly correct. I also increase retraction just a small bit (but that is only needed if you notice stringing).
ABS is also pretty nasty stuff compared to other filaments, I only run that in the garage if ever. PETG seems a better option for most things. ABS is also sensitive to drafts so when I have run it in the past, I covered the printer in some sort of enclosure (not 100% necessary but can help if everything else is good but prints still lift or have issues). Good luck.
Thanks for the info. I going have to get me some PETG for the Rotor system I am building. Thanks again Merry Christmas.
Thanks you too. The rotor system sounds cool, is it part of a quadcopter or for a wind power generator? The video below shows non planar slicing which is out in the future (I have never tried it and don't plan to until it becomes more developed), but it looks promising for making airfoils:https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=gmePlcU0TRw
Its for Satellite tracking. It call SATNOGS. Here is a link to one of the pages. https://gitlab.com/librespacefoundation/satnogs
I am an Amateur Radio Operator. Call is KC5DP. I am trying to build the version 3.1, I trying both the regular control system which required surface mount soldering. and trying the Arduino with a CNC shield. Hope to have it built by spring. Thanks again for the info.
I was way off :D, different kind of rotor, thanks for the link.