I am having some bad layers and blobbing on the skin of the print. Could it be bad(wet) filament? Is my nozzle not tight and blobs are dripping down and ruining the quality? Are my Z screwS(I have the dual z motor setup) misaligned or problematic? I need help.
That looks like wet filament. The moisture vaporizing at the nozzle is what causes the splatter blobbing. (insta-steam bubbles) I just had my filament box found open after 6 months and that's how my first print looked... almost.
I just baked my desiccant dry and my filament in my toaster oven for the first time so here's the tricks I observed. If you don't have a thermometer that you can leave in there with it, a food dehydrator, or a smart oven then set it to warm.
For the toaster oven or regular oven, put a small amount of filament on a spool in there making sure it's wound tight and on top of itself (can just be a corner of the spool) and then through the retainer hole (or clip it) to what will be top of spool. What you want to see if that clipped part sag but the wound parts not adhere to each other after it has been in the over for 10-30 minutes. Make absolutely sure the oven is well preheated!!!!
If that test goes well then pull everything in there for 4-6 hours and yes, that long in that condition. Mine wasn't nearly half that bad and I had to bake each roll for 3-4 hours at 145.
The only other thing I had make a print look that bad was printing too fast for the filament. I was using a clear red and printing like it was this premium stuff I had been slipped by mistake. Try printing at 30-40mm/s and if it's better then try 20. I think I had to use 25mm/s max and slow the acceleration too. It has to do with the quantity of actual melt able plastic to additives ratio and heat transfer rate. Keep that in mind for glitter plastic later too.
Hope this helps ^_^
I had an old PID controller laying around, so I mounted the thermistor in a big box, cut a hole in the box and mounted a hair dryer in the hole. now I have a small heated chamber capable of reaching 90C. I put the filament in overnight at 50C and I noticed some difference, but not much.
There may be some nozzle leaking (or maybe it is little damaged and some filament lifts from time to time) but first I would try to dry the filament.
Or, if it is near Z-seams, it is a retraction problem. So could be a ptfe tube not cut streight or not all the way down and after retraction, from time to time, it goes up and blocks a filament for a second
I am running a direct drive setup, is my short PTFE piece too short?
Z-seams problems are usually on bowden not direct drive but if you will change you ptfe to slightly longer it will not bother but may help. Just cut it streight.