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One corner of calibration cube not straight and smooth like the

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I’ve got a ender 3 v2, I’m just a real beginner and I used it before for some prints and stopped using it , now I’m going to use it again, I calibrated everything including Z offset as I have a bl touch and I tried printing the cube , everything looks good including the measurements but one edge is not straight and smooth and rest is ok so need some help with it

That's the seam, it has to go somewhere.
Anyway, double check your Z Offset, the bottom layers look too squished.

I finally got bigger things to print by adjusting the z offset but now I get one side warping really bad, I got a new bed coming as the Pei one I’m using now is not good anymore , got lots of tiny bubbles and having to use hairspray for the print to stick so don’t know if it’s warping because of the bed or something else ?

With PEI, never clean the bed while it's hot. Wait till it's 45* or under. Only use Isopropyl Alcohol (I use 99% & pour it on an old sock).
Try the print again, but rotate it to see if the warp follows or stays on the same side of bed. You can also try same print with different filament.

The filament doesn’t stick at all on the PEI bed without some sort of adhesion, it does need replacing as there’s lots of issues with it including tons of micro bubbles and some of it is damaged and the hairspray does work and make the print stick but one warps really bad which, I have ordered a new creality magnetic bed and hopefully that helps and I’ll try this filament when my new bed arrives and a new filament I got I’ll try too and see if there’s any improvement, the calibration cube prints fine now and that doesn’t warp at all. I fine tuned the Z offset while printing a first layer of a print to find the ideal Z offset, I think that is the best way to calibrate it to do it while actually printing the first layer of a print. Thanks for your help and hopefully I can sort the issue out and I’ll update the post once I got the new bed

That's why I mentioned about not cleaning it when it's hot..it messes it up 7 it will no longer stick.
I use this print when I'm setting my Z offset: https://www.printables.com/model/251587-stress-free-first-layer-calibration-in-less-than-5

I got the new bed but still having issues, cube prints really good but anything bigger just warps so bad and either fails or is ruined, if it was the filament then I guess the cube wouldn’t print good but that prints fine, the filament I used 2 rolls once and then vacuum sealed both of them and they both cause same issues, I’ve got 2 sealed new rolls I can try but I don’t think it’s the filament, I’ve never had any prints warp so bad as this before, don’t know what is the issue

What are your printing & bed temps..??

It’s just 50c and 200c, ind tried a bit higher temp like 55c and 205c and 210c but same issue, the cube prints great it’s just anything bigger warps really bad, I’m going to try the file from the link for the z offset, the other day I thought maybe it’s the bl touch and reverted back to original firmware but the printer wouldn’t auto home at all so I couldn’t print anything so I reverted back to the bl touch, I will try that file and maybe some new filament but maybe you got some suggestions and thanks for your help

Can you post pics on the Z offset print & your warping.

Yes I’ll post it hopefully today

It looks good, but I guess you missed the part about not using dark colors..it hides issues.
It looks like you might be a little high, but I'm not sure (maybe 1-2 clicks). Is the whole print 1 number or did you set it as you were printing..??

Here’s the one from today with the sloppy layers but never warped as much and I never use no glue stick or any adhesion but warped slightly but looks horrible and you seen the horrible layers I was getting in the post with lots of pics, the gcode is the same I used to always use and they used to print perfectly but I don’t know what’s going on, I only got silk filament and I think I got some luminous filament which is new as well

This is what it should look like but it warped really bad and this was 2 days ago , it’s the best looking print I had for this gcode which used to print fine but it warped bad

Well what I done, I did adjust it very slightly but it looked fine so I never messed with it too much , I’m using silk filament and I might have a silver one I can do, I think I near enough sorted out the warping , since I been using the printer again it’s been on the floor and it’s winter and I think the breeze was warping it, I managed to do a print with just little warping but the problem is I’m getting very sloppy horrible layers , some layers are ok but some are not, you can see

Myself, I can't print silk at 200. I have to print it at 210. (bed set to 60).
From all the pics, it looks like there is an under extrusion problem also, if your printing silk at 200
it it will cause that problem.
The warping could be from your settings being to low...print temp, causing under extrusion, not sticking to the bed.

I would try printing at 210 or 215 with the bed at 60*.

BTW: I use an Ender 3 Pro (2021).

Also, you haven't mentioned what speed your printing at..??

Check your tubing at the hotend & if you haven't already, replace your nozzle.

Printing too cold, partial clogged nozzle, clogged bowden tube at hotend, printing too fast...can all cause under extrusion.

I’ve changed the nozzle and tube this week twice, extrusion at the extruder Is perfect, printing speed I’ll have to check but it’s the standard setting cura has for standard config but I’ll check , reason I never mentioned too much was bcuz it’s the same gcode I used to print this exact print fine before so I never thought it’s relevant, I’m going to look what other filament I got and see if that helps

If you find some PLA great, but I would still set the bed to 60. If it just PLA, set at 200, if it's PLA+ set to 210* like silk.

I used the pla luminous one and had the same issue, so I bought some normal pla which I used to use and end result was great, there was some some sloppy layers but only a couple but rest was perfect and you can’t tell once it was done, I don’t know why I’m getting a couple of sloppy layers and in the layer they was some slight blobs but it all got covered up in the next few layers, the silk pla I’m struggling with still and I also need to figure out why I’m getting them small blobs and sloppy layers. Thanks for your help and hopefully you can suggest something to sort out the last few issues

Ignore the last part about Ironing...it's all stuff we've pretty much gone over before except slicer setting.

https://all3dp.com/2/3d-print-zits-tips-tricks-to-avoid-blobs/

Right thanks I’ll take a look, I’ve never messed around with settings and maybe I need to calibrate the flow, another thing is I always seem to get blockages when I use all metal hotends, I’m just a beginner so don’t know alot but I’ll take a look and that’s for your help

ok, you never mentioned your using an all metal hotend. Did you modify the hotend before or after you stopped using the printer..??
What kind of hotend did you buy..??

Sorry for the misunderstanding, I wasn't using an all metal hotend all this time, I was using the normal one that came with the printer . I bought some cheap all metal hotend long time ago and what I meant was every time I’ve tried it, it gets clogged and extruder slips, same happened when I bought it and I stopped using it and I tried it briefly last week to see if that makes any difference and it just got clogged, it’s like a clone of micro Swiss hot end , no mods just straight swap for the normal hotend, all original fans and same setup , I tried with petg with higher temps but still got clogged but I gave up on that for now until I get a better one, I ordered the Creality spider all metal hotend and I’ll maybe have to add some fans etc but that’s something I won’t be doing yet but curious why I always get clogged nozzles or heatbreaks, im just going to focus on the normal hotend for now and try to get some more experience with slicer settings and how to get this Silk filament to print as I’m struggling with that, with the normal pla, even I said get blobs or sloppy layers, it’s always just a few layers , the first layer is always perfect and the final layer is perfect, I only found out as I was watching the print otherwise you can’t tell once it’s finished , with the silk filament you can tell as it’s lots of layers that are horrible including the final layer, I’ll try and and try some of stuff you sent from the link but the only reason I mentioned the all metal hotend as I thought maybe you knew how to resolve clogged nozzles or whatever is getting clogged

I can just tell you what I've read & heard from others. If you buy a cheap all metal hotend or heatbreak, it will clog with PLA.
It usually says "Don't or Not for use with PLA" in the description. So lookup the one you bought & read the description & the reviews.

Myself, went with a Bi-Metal Heatbreak from https://trianglelab.net/products/ender3-cr10-titanium-alloy-bi-metal-heatbreak
I've used it for about 3 months now without any issues.
So, I'm still using a stock hotend (rebuilt)..just with a different heatbreak.
I also have about 10 stock heatbreaks if I ever run into trouble I can just throw on another one.

Have you ever tried to clean your hotend, can you get a PFTE tube to go all the way through..??
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=bg4sOaSvimY
I could barely get mine through. I was causing heat creep. Taking it out & adding thermal paste proved it, that's why I replaced it.

Do you still have the plastic extruder installed or did you replace it..??

Hi thanks for the reply, I actually got some bi metal heatbreaks coming and a creality all metal hotend coming aswell, my ptfe tube got replaced last week and I tried another normal hotend aswell which is working ok now and the original one is working ok now , my ptfe can go through the hotend without any issues , I’ve got this other all metal hotend aswell, it’s like a mosquito clone or something similar but haven’t used it as I’m just going to wait for the creality one to arrive and the bi metal heatbreaks , my plastic extruder got replaced when I bought the printer so I don’t use that , here’s a picture of the hotend , I had some of these and I sold them and 1 buyer complained and couldn’t get it to print properly, I don’t know why as no one else complained but I never asked the rest of the people so I don’t know if everyone else got it to work ok

Kinda hard to figure out with you switching parts all the time.
I guess post back once you've got everything installed.

At the moment it’s just the standard hotend but when I had issues last week I switched everything as I Couldn't figurine out what was causing prints to fail , it’s sorted for now with the stock hotend but need to figure out the silk pla, once I got my other stuff and I installed the all metal hotend then I’ll reply and see if there’s any issues but thanks for your help

Did you try printing silk at 210*.
Also, it's a good investment to get a filament dryer. I use the Sunlu S2 as my main & the S1 as a backup.

I haven't tried it again yet, it was a newish roll, actually one was new and the other I used it once then vacuum sealed it , I will try it at higher temp and see what happens, might get a filament dryer aswell. The heatbreaks and new hotend won’t arrive probably for another 2 weeks but it might come a bit quicker for now I’ll try the silk and see what happens .
You know these e3d v6 hotends, do they require different fans on ender 3 v2 or can you just use stock fan setup with a small bracket ?

I don't know. The E3 v2 has a different shroud/fan setup then the E3 Pro.

What about on the pro one you talking about ?
I presumed the fans setup won’t be good for it and will require different setup

My printer is an Ender 3 Pro, it's the same hotend as the 3v2 but the shroud is different.

If you was putting a e3d in yours then would you think just mounting it would work ok with your normal fan set up ?

No, it's not a direct drop in, not for the 3v2 either.

Right I’m back, I actually sell some stuff on eBay and my new stuff arrived and I always keep some for myself, I’m still waiting for other stuff but I got things like spider all metal hotend , hotend and fan assembly from the v2 neo , new black creality cr touch sensor and some Capricorn , I don’t know wether to use the spider hotend or the neo one , I’m not sure if the neo one is all metal but I could check, I was thinking the spider as creality claim it can print 5 times quicker but I’m just a amateur,
What you recommend ?

Depend on if you bought Spider v2 or v3 hotend..v3 is a direct drop in, v2 needs a new thermistor. As for the Neo, it's a complete kit.
Your choice.

The CR Touch is great, I use one myself.

This is the spider one in the picture, I was looking at the neo one and nothing special about it, I think I’ll go with this spider one, manual just says remove your old fans and install a suitable one but they don’t tell you what’s suitable, they recommended and to print a fan cover which they provide a link which I downloaded but I don’t understand what fans to use?

That looks like the v3, you should be able to use your old fan & shroud.
Really need a pic of the right side where the thermistor goes.

It came with another thermistor but from what I’ve read the shroud will need replacing,I read that this hotend is too long and the manual says to print another one and use a suitable fan, the manual says v1.0 in the top corner, I don’t know what shroud to print and what fans to use , the neo setup looks ok but it’s not a all metal hotend and the quality looks average, I did calibrate the flow rate and printer seems to be printing ok at the moment, the flexible magnetic creality bed I bought, I printed something in petg and some bits I couldn’t get off the bed, I can still print on most of it but I’ve ordered a PEI double sided one, textured and smooth but the last PEI one ended up with lots of tiny bubbles, I know you mentioned to clean it once it’s cold which I’ll do on my new one, I’ve still got the glass one aswell but I wasn’t a fan of that

Ya, that's the older model.
I caught this video a few months back, that's how I know about it.

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=EqCDjZW3Dks

Mine is the older one, I saw a video and the video the person said don’t buy it as you can’t get other nozzles for it and he said you can’t use it at 500c on creality printers anyway and he recommended a dragon one but in the comments everyone was saying it’s the best hotend they’ve ever used so a bit of mixed opinions on it , I’ll try it out but I need to find a shroud and fan setup for it, I’ve got some new fans anyway but need to find a suitable shroud, the one creality recommend looks ok but they don’t give any info on eBay fans to use

Amazon mixes their reviews for different items/models...it really sucks.

I printer a shroud for the spider but I used supports everywhere and they was too hard to remove in certain places, so I’m trying the tree supports now, the new PEI double sided bed is alot better compared to the other creality magnetic bed, got the same issue though, I never cleaned it and just printed on the smooth side and it printed well but when I removed the print, I noticed the micro bubbles in some spots where the print was, there was a manual with this one and it did mention you can get them but I really don’t know why they happen first time I used it, maybe I need a higher quality one as I got this from Amazon

Can you post of pic or the link to the shroud file..?? It probably only needs a little support.
I got my PEI from Amazon, haven't had any issues...but I also didn't go too cheap.

Creality Spider Hotend Fan Cover - Ender 3 V2 - Dual Vent Remix
by BaDboD

You should be able to print that how it sits with buildplate normal supports.
I would up the infill from 20% to 50% - Gyroid, it will add 1 extra hour to print time.

My PEI isn't stamped with Hictop, but the paperwork that came with it was.
https://a.co/d/57JwEbf

I managed to print it with the tree supports which was easy to remove, there’s one thing I don’t understand is how to mount it , here’s a picture

The hotend holds it on, the hole in the top.
Once you've screwed in the hotend, slide the shroud over top. I assume, your old fans just slide in.
BL/CR Touch mount on the left.

I'm not familiar with the design, your gonna have to play around with it a bit.

Ok thanks, I think this requires just 2 fans so do I remove 1 fan or is there only 2 fans on the ender 3 v2?
I think there’s 3 fans if I remember right

Never seen a 3v2 up close, but from pics..looks like same as E3..2 fans, 1 hotend in front & 1 cooling on the right.

Did Creality give you the link for the shroud or did you just pick one..?? Seems strange there are no comments or makes...JMO

Hi, there’s only 2 fans actually in the ender 3 v2, but them 2 holes that look like they are for CR touch is not for that, I don’t know what they are for as there’s no way CR touch can fit there , I think original cr touch bracket can work with this fan cover, this is a fan cover which is a remix of the one creality recommend, creality give a link which looks similar to this, just some slight differences , there’s not many options available for the longer spider hotend , I’ve seen a couple more which I might print instead but I think I might give this a try, I don’t really like how there’s no screws for the fans

Before I saw the link you sent I was printing this one, it came out pretty decent, my prints seemed to be coming out pretty good to be honest, I’ve seen some on thingiverse and half of them look terrible.
I don’t understand why there’s 2 ducts on these when there’s only 1 duct that has a fan and the other one I don’t understand the purpose of it , with this there’s no CR touch bracket but I’ve got a original one which may work.
If the height and placement of the CR touch is changed then so I need to do anything in the firmware for the height and placement of it ?
I honestly can’t remember as I learnt some stuff then just left my printer for a year and forgot everything, I’m basically starting from scratch again, but I’m glad there’s people like you to assist amateurs like me and thanks for that

The 2nd duct is connected to the 1st one (hollow) with 1 fan...so air can blow on each side.
I don't know how well these work as I added a 2nd fan.
You can't adjust CR Touch with firmware, you'll have to use spacers to adjust to the proper height.

Is it possible to send the big Spider back to exchange for the smaller Spider..?? Then you wouldn't have to replace anything, it's a drop in replacement.

It’s all assembled again, put the new thermistor in, done all the wiring and put the fans in, maybe could do with a seal around the side fan where it meets the duct, for now I just put the old Bl touch in to test it out before I put in the CR touch incase it hits the bed or something, I haven’t tried a print yet but fans work fine and hotend warms up, just need to put new Bowden tube and maybe try a print with petg on my old pei bed, don’t want to ruin the new one, I read maybe that it’s best to use glue stick for petg

Looks good. Will the old duct fit on the cooling fan..?? It looks like you'll have to take the fan back off to try.

The old one won’t fit I did actually try, I’m presuming I can use the printer like this setup?
I need to use something to seal the side fan any ideas if a suitable material ?

I'm not sure which shroud you printed, but the fan duct should be on the bottom & fit into the duct.
If it does that, them there is nothing to seal.

It can’t fit, I already tried, it’s a remix of satsana, I noticed on some it said you need to seal it but the remix I chose said it’s been modified so you don’t need to seal it but the original duct can’t fit, if I had a 3D pen then I would use that but I don’t have one, I was thinking maybe some silicone or hot glue as I presume that won’t get hot.
Also I need to change the firmware for the spider hotend, what weird with creality is they say it supports 500c but the firmware only supports 300c for the spider and I don’t think the thermistor can do 500c so they talking a bit of nonsense there

Unless your going to print in carbon fiber & stuff like that, there is no need to change it.
When I installed my bi-metal heat break I could have changed it to 300 but left it at 260. I can always change it in the future if needed.

As for your shroud, if you read that it didn't fit right, you should've chose another. If you ever have to replace the fan & you sealed it, your going to have to print another shroud also...JMO

EDIT: I see it was posted "Version 3 properly seats the part fan and provide a better seal."

I did actually print the one which is meant to seal better, it’s ok but I think it’s still not perfect, I’m going to print another shroud anyway with petg, this was PLA and I haven’t really mastered petg so any advice would help, I sealed it with some UV curing glue but it looks good but I don’t know if it will hold up well, I was thinking maybe if there’s a way to use the original shroud and print a extended duct, they got them for ender 3 but I don’t know if it would work on the v2, maybe the shroud is not wide enough for the hotend but if you can give me some advice on petg with a pei bed and what kind of temp and setting

My shroud is printed in PLA & I've never had any problems, the fan keep it cool.
the one you printed said that PLA would melt the fan duct, but wasn't tested.

PETG, I print at 235 & bed at 70, just make sure your infill is 30% or above.
Stringing is the main issue with PETG, you'll have to play around with retraction settings to fix that...adjust by .5 +/- if you try.
My retraction for PLA & PETG is set to 4.5, but if the print has a lot of stop & go or detail, I turn it down to 3.
I usually get it right, but if I start to get a lot of clicking I'll stop...adjust it & re-slice & start again.
Having a bowden, you'll have to change it sometimes.

I noticed a issue with this, the nozzle is a bit higher than the ducts, it’s impossible for the nozzle to touch the bed and the gap is too much so first layer wouldn’t work, also the BL touch is too high aswell, I can lower the BL touch but the nozzle is too high for it to work, I don’t understand how it’s possible to overcome this issue

If that's the case, you can't use that shroud. You can either try the one that isn't a remix or some other one..or use the Neo.

What I done for now until I find a better shroud is, I needed to raise the shroud around 1.5mm to 2mm, so the holes that fix the shroud to the printer I made them bigger so I can push the shroud up 2mm or maybe it’s 1.5mm which gave me enough clearance for me to calibrate my z offset, I had to lower the BL touch alot, it might work now and I’ll try it until I find a better shroud, to be honest I can’t feel much air coming out the ducts even though I have sealed it, the fan cover that creality give you link for is even worse.
With the Petg, do you use any glue stick or anything on the pei bed as I read it’s best to as it’s hard to remove from the pei bed if you don’t put anything ?

No, don't use any glue on the PEI.
For PLA, bed at 60, for PETG, bed should be 70-75.

I done the calibration cube at your recommended temps and it came out good with the PETG, slight stringing on the letter X but I never changed any settings

Time to try something bigger I guess. Good luck.

Thanks I need more then good luck though, what kind of settings do I adjust to avoid stringing ?
To be honest I’ve only used pla and the normal settings worked fine so I don’t know much about changing settings in cura

It depends on the printer/hotend really, but I have a general settings..so it's rare I have to change anything. Like I said above, if I do it's per model, not the filament.
You went with all metal hotend, I went with bi-metal heat break...basically the same.
I would try setting Retraction Distance to 4.5 & go up or down from there. I had mine set to 3, but I found on bigger prints I was getting over extrusion.

Here a 2 cubes I printed last month in PLA. I just did it to do it, these are the 1st cubes I've done...I just don't see a need to print them.
Twisted Cube: https://www.printables.com/model/171902-twisted-xyz-calibration-cube
Other is just a Cura Cube.

Nice cubes, I might try the twisted one, I found a a similar shroud which has a hole for the screw on left and right side Which the designer said is crucial and I agree as the other one has just holes for the screws on the left so the right side can lose it’s alignment, this is a remix of the same one but also supposed to have the correct CR touch bracket at the correct height, it’s got lots of very fine stringing but I think this can be blown away with some hot air, the stringing is like way thinner than a hair strand, 1 issue I noticed while it was printing, I chose tree supports and it printed tree supports inside both ducts, one duct has a 2 openings so I removed the tree support but the other one only has the opening at the bottom of the duct which is small and need to find a way to remove it

I suggested above...somewhere...I download the STL for your print to said to use Normal Buildplate (not Tree) for this reason.
From your pics..stringing...did you print at 235c or higher..?? Also, you can really see the layer lines, so I think your nozzle may still be a little high.
Did you hear any pops when you were printing, do you keep your PETG in a sealed bag..??

I might be better to practice this print in PLA till you get it figured out.

I printed at 235c and the pla prints perfectly and I have tried with normal supports but the normal supports are so hard to remove and these come off so easily except one inside 1 duct but i managed to remove most of it, the layers don’t look great but the cube came out fine so I thought the z off set is fine, I do keep the filament in a sealed bag after use and it’s a new roll I used once last month and vacuum sealed it again and now I got it out a few days ago but after every print I put it back in the bag. I seen a video where they said this type of stringing is normal but I don’t know, most of it blew off with a hair dryer as it’s that thin, there’s no real thick stinging, it is hard to print, I was going to buy ABS but on Amazon most of them had like 1 or 2 reviews that said it’s not even ABS but it’s PLA + labelled as ABS,
What kind of object can I print to try and see if I can improve my skills on PETG ?
Something they didn’t take up much filament

PETG at 235c, PLA at 200-215c
Normal support on buildplate only, not everywhere..so won't get into ducts.
Printing cubes over & over doesn't help, they are too small.
Print PETG slow, 30mm or less if needed. (Cura default is 30mm).

Ok I’ll try to make some adjustments but I was printing at 30mm and the thin stringing and not so nice looking layers is the issue really, I’ll do some more research and see how I get on

Did you change your retraction setting..??
Stringing can be caused by bad retraction setting, printing too hot, print speed, wet filament.

https://all3dp.com/2/3d-print-stringing-easy-ways-to-prevent-it/

I've only changed the Retraction Distance, haven't had any need to mess with the other retraction settings.

I changed it to 4.5 but I tried other settings but was a lot worse, one thing I noticed was the min extrusion distance windows is showing red and set to 10.0 but I never changed that, I need to find something to print to practice this petg on but I don’t know what kind of object is good to print that doesn’t take up alot of time and filament

Red is fine, it's just a warning.

try this: https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:2640671

String test (minimal)
by Glyn

Right, what I done is try to new fan shroud, fitting is better and it ha a cr touch mount but I got 2 issues, 1 issue was mentioned by the creator of the remix, this design doesn’t hit the end stop so he says glue a piece of plastic on which he provides, I just any piece of plastic on for now and it’s ok but I got a new issue, when I go to print the cr touch only probes the centre of the bed and then starts the print, I’m not sure why but maybe it’s bcuz the cr touch mount hits the end stop before reaching the corner, that’s what I’m thinking but it might be a different issue, if that is the issue then I need to tell the printer where to probe as it can’t reach the original probing points on the left side

Probe should start just off center on the bed, default is 9 points, if you upgraded Marlin it is either 16 or 24 points...depends on Marlin version.
Did you add G26 To Cura..??

I already had the BL touch working perfect, all I done is swap the fan shroud and swap the bl touch to a cr touch, I can’t remember how many times the bl touch probed but maybe it was 9 but I haven’t changed anything else in cura as it was working fine with the bl touch

If the CR Touch finds an issue or you level manually,, it will turn itself off. Look in Motion/Bed Leveling or Configuration/BLTouch to see if it's on.
If you turn it on, go to Configuration/Store Settings & click it.

I just done bed levelling in the ender 3 v2 menu and it does it fine, it probes all the points ok, it’s only when I try to print a gcode, it will prove just the centre and go straight to printing, it obviously starts printing the line on left that is to prime the nozzle and then start printing the object.

Then I would check the pic I posted above to see if it's still in Cura. There was an update awhile back that removed it for a lot of people.
It's at least worth a look. If it's not there, once re-added, you will need to re-slice the file again.

Yes correct it’s disappeared from cura, what I find really strange is I had gcodes in my mice sd card and g29 line has gone from the half of thr gcodes on my micro sd card, on some of them the g29 is still there but some of them have just vanished by itself, I don’t understand how half of the gcodes on a memory card can be modified by them self, what I tried is open the gcodes with notepad+ and noticed g29 line has gone so I added it to the gcode with the notepad+ and it worked fine, it’s weird as I never touched the settings in cura and my laptop is not even connected to my printer and what’s even more weird is how half of the gcodes on my micro sd card got edited by them self

What most likely happened is... Cura update removed the G29 (bug), everything you sliced after that update had no G29.
That's why I said you would have to re-slice some files.

Just a quick update, I noticed on the original creality video for the spider hotend, lots of people was complaining that the hotend is rubbish and keeps clogging and on Reddit people was complaining about the same issue, I did see on another video some was saying it’s a great hotend, I’ve had no issues at all with it, I been using PETG with no issues but mainly been using PLA and it’s amazing, it’s way better than the cheap all metal hotend I tried as that was clogging near enough every print, I just printed this soldering tips organiser which is PLA and it took a good 18 hours but no issues, the spider hotend wasn’t really expensive at all and prints really well,
What I was curious about is creality say it can print alot higher speeds and to achieve that what exactly do I need to do ?
Do I change the nozzle to 0.6mm and change settings or is there a lot more involved ?
Thinking of going direct drive but there’s no real fan shrouds for this hotend with ender 3 v2

First, your prints look pretty good. Pics don't look like PLA, looks like PETG to me..not that it matters.

Speed...Cura..look under Speed....Print Speed (default is 50mm/s) Try not to go above 80mm/s or you'll probably have issues.
Just change the Print Speed setting..the 1st one..everything else will change for you.

Thanks I’ll try that, so changing to a 0.6mm nozzle will make what kind of difference ?

It will help, but you will lose some fine detail. It all depends on what your printing.

I bought a filament dryer and there’s a hole in the front for the filament to come out and a pipe included but instructions don’t mention anything, with the hole won’t all the heat got out or is it ok like that and the pipe I don’t know what it’s for ?

Which dryer did you buy..link or pic would be good ;-)

I have 2 Sunlu S2's & 1 Sunlu S1.

I was going to buy the sunlu one but it was out of stock but I bought the Esun one in the link, never got it from Amazon but it’s the same as the one on Amazon.
https://www.amazon.co.uk/eSUN-Removable-Transparent-Compatible-Refilament/dp/B08PTS84H7

Some people want to run a bowden tube to the extruder or through a Lack Table if it's a direct drive.
From the pics, it looks like the small plastic part slides into the lid. The tube would slide into that.
I run a short 4" tube from the S2 to the E3P, more as a filament guide. In the SV06, I run about an 8" tube into a Lack Table.
You don't have to run a tube if you don't want to, but I would use the plastic part the slides into the lid.

Check for eSun Dryer accessory prints also.

Thanks, I’ve been using it to dry some PETG as I had a roll and it was sent just in a box and wasn’t sealed in a bag at all, i was going to use it as I thought it’s useless as it was brittle, just breaks so easily, I been drying it for like 8 hours maybe longer but I got a feeling it’s not going to be any good as it’s been in the garage with condensation aswell, I need to dry my other rolls aswell, the manual is useless and it says the heater goes to over 100c at setting 1 but I checked with a non contact thermometer and it’s no where near 100c.
I’m going direct drive, got myself E.Fit extruder and I also got the spider hotend Pro, which is a smaller size, the spider hotend I’m using now is the first one and it’s excellent, not one clog I’ve had and been using PLA so might not use the new spider hotend yet and just go direct drive with the first spider hotend as it’s working perfectly for me, only thing I noticed was my Z off set keeps changing but don’t know why I have to keep changing it to get the prints to stick to the PEI bed

Are you saving/storing the settings when you change the Z Offset..??

Most dryers don't go above 60c, the website says your eSun goes to 55c.
I've gotten wet PLA & PETG straight from the box before, usually I'll dry it for 10-12 hours.
I print 99% of the time from the dryers.

Yes I always save the Z off set but after a couple of days the prints don’t stick well and the z off set is always the issue, the hotend is secure and can’t move and the nozzle is tight and I haven’t charged it. I’m changing to direct drive next few days with the E fit extruder as I want to start printing TPU.
The dryer manual says setting 1 for PLA is 105c and setting 2 goes up in temperature.
When you say you print from the dryer, is the dryer on or off ?

It says the plate is 105c, not the air inside.

Yes, I have the dryer on..it's pretty humid here in Florida.

Yes I understand it says the plate is 105c and that’s why I used a infrared thermometer and pointed it at the plate and it’s no where near 105c, it’s more like 38c according to the thermometer, I can touch it with my finger and it just feels hot, 105c would burn my finger.
I’m in UK and we get moisture from condensation and other things and I think I’ll buy another one to use it while printing, maybe I’ll buy a sunlu one this time but I’m not sure if this one has a issue or it’s meant to be like this

Spend a little extra & get the Sunlu S2, it's worth it. The Sunlu S1 is still good, I use it as a backup (I'll be adding a fan to it next week).
Both Sunlu's don't have a fan, but I don't think it's necessary. The only reason I'm adding a fan to the S1 is to help vent it, I have prints that help with that on the S2.

I’m looking to install this E fit extruder next couple of days if I get time, I read somewhere that the person never changed the filament load and unload distance which nearly destroyed the cogs when they changed filament. I don’t even have a clue what that is and what to change it to.
Do you have any ideas of what I need to change it to and how I even change it ?

I never ran Stock Firmware on my E3P, so I'm not sure if you have this setting. Also, I think it's only available with a Filament Sensor.
Basically, when you choose load or unload filament..there is a setting that allows you to adjust how much the filament moves.
If the load amount is set to high, once it hits the nozzle it will extrude, but it will also grind on the extruder gears until it stops loading.
During unload, you want it to run past the extruder so the filament is totally extracted & not sitting in the bowden tube.

I done the conversion, went ok and first thing I done was the e steps and I did notice the duct for the nozzle is slightly too high, needs to come down 1 or 2mm, don’t know if that’s the reason but getting some issues with the top layer not printing correctly, it’s happened twice, kind of gaps on 1 and the other has a gap and stringing, I honestly don’t know what’s the reason, first thing I done was a calibration cube which cane out excellent but having them issues

So what hotend are you running now, you lost me...lol

I did see this for the Sprite: https://cults3d.com/en/3d-model/tool/air-duct-5015-ender-3-s1-pro-v3

Sorry im using the E fit extruder and the same original version of the spider hotend, only real issue is with top layers sometimes and the fan duct needs lowering slightly also this came with the extruder in the picture but the threads are too long for the spider hotend so I just used the Bowden type which came with the spider hotend, it’s the same type but I removed the plastic piece that holds the Bowden tube but all it is the hole is bigger and I don’t think that would cause issues, no one has designed a fan shroud for this extruder so I’m using what I got with it

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