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Control Boards

by CBocka

Hello,

I am currently in the process of designing a high temp 3d printer. One that specifically can print PEEK which requires a hotend temp of 420 C.
I have everything all set except the control board. I have searched everywhere for one that can comfortably maintain a hotend temp of `450ish and a bed temp of at least 100. If anyone has any suggestions or can point me in the right direction any help would be greatly appreciated.
I'm assuming my hotend will have to be minimum 72V and the bed 48V.

Thanks.

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Need material that will survine the interior of a car

by WebElectric

Looking for some experience here. I got my printer about a year ago. The first thing I made was a clip to hold my Garmin to the A/C vent in my car. I knew nothing about 3D printing, so I made everything with the default settings using PLA. The parts included a clip to slide onto a vane of the vent, a ball peg that slid into the clip, a socket that snapped onto the ball and a "C" shaped clip to hold the Garmin.

It worked well until I left the car in the sun for an entire day. The clip opened up some, the ball compressed where the socket was touching it, and the whole unit drooped like Salvador Dali's painting "The Persistence of Memory". So, I figured it was the 20% infill which was the default setting on the printer.

I re-printed the parts using 100% infill and also tightened up some of the parts so they were very snug. This lasted many months, but now I notice that the clip is starting to loosen up again.

I think I need to make these parts (at least the clip and ball/socket) with a higher temperature material. I'm thinking ABS or PTEG. I've also heard of HIPS, PC and PA. I'm asking the experienced printers out there for some advice on what material works well inside a car's interior (passenger area, not under the hood).

Thanks.

-L

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Which plastics cut best?

by Ghiadriver

Im working on a project where I need to print parts that will be used to fixture objects which are then cut repeatedly. So these are sacrificial fixtures if you will. Some of the blades are high speed steel, others are tungsten carbide.
I am looking for the plastic that will cause the least wear on the blade edge over time.
My initial thought is printing with PVA as it should not wear the blade much.
Another thought I had is to stay away from pigmented materials since things like TiO2 are used for white pigment.
Bust I just cant seem to find numbers on what is the lowest density, or lowest hardness plastic for this application.
Any thoughts?
I can use PLA, ABS, Nylon, PETG, ASA etc. most options are open.

Thanks in advance for any other suggestions!

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mechanic watch enlargement

by 3DPVDB

Since we're having trouble with drawing out an idea,
We're looking for an engineer for a specific assignment:
Designing and drawing a (scaled-up)self-winding wristwatch,
To be lasercut, milled, 3D Printed, or all.
To make it easy, it does only have to have one axle, instead of 3 for the sec, min & hrs.
The single axis, needs to reach a speed of 6x a normal second-pointer-axis.
The minimum required dimentions of the design are diameter 180mm, height 60mm.
The maximum required dimentions of the design are diameter 600mm, height 60mm.

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Shape Retention for certain Materials

by RagingBear55

I don't know how good the name describes this, but I have a part i want to print (see below). The only thing is i need this part to retain its shape when its bent. It functions sort of like clamp and when you push on the two arms it widens to fit around an object. I have printed in PLA and PETG and after minimal attempts at opening the gap wider the part tends to get wider and wider. I am needing to know the best material so that the part will "spring" back into its original shape. I understand over time this will happen naturally, but it I need a material that will last longer than 3-4 times. Any suggestions? I was about to try a Taulman Alloy 910 next.

filament materials
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