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How to build this and what material?

by Just-Harry

I have an FDM printer CR-10 S5, modified so i can do most anything with it. That said, here is my dilemma.
I race model sailboats (AMYA.org). I am, also, an accomplished builder.
Hardware and appendages are not so easy to come by when trying to purchase and they are not cheap either. I have made parts myself and succeeded but the amount of effort required just isnt worth it. I have now turned to 3D printing as a solution and for most all of my requirements, it will satisfy.
However, there is one piece that bothers me. The keel you see in the .stl file. L=457 Width=86m and thickness tapers from 6mm at the top to 5mm at the bottom. There is a NACA profile to the chord(width=86mm) as well.
The upper portion fits inside a trunk in the hull, and the bottom portion rides in the water. At the bottom there will be a 4-pound, torpedo shaped, lead bulb attached. The bulb acts as leverage against the sails, the boat is the axis. This part needs to be very flexurally stiff. I am not worried about breakage as the weight isnt even close to that kind of stress. I am concerned with deflection(bending) of the keel fin, once the boat heels over under power. The more rigid the better.
If you were me, what materials would you focus on , and what method might you choose for the print? Any and all opinions are welcome.

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eSUN ABS Plus inside engine bay

by sen2two

Also, inside engine parts. More specifically, inside a custom aluminum intake manifold.

I am building an intake manifold for my car (3000gt Vr4), and I would LOVE to print low profile velocity stack to fit into the runners/riser where they meet the plenum. I am unsure if they would survive the chemical reaction. I am not concerned really about the heat. I have low quality ABS surviving in the engay bay currently not too far from the turbos in Florida heat. (Throttle cable bracket)

The velocity stacks will be upstream a way from fuel, but vapors going backwards are common. Also, very high possibility of water/meth and or water/isopropyl (rubbing alcohol) injection. which would pass by the velocity stacks.

http://www.plasticsintl.com/plastics_chemical_resistence_chart.html

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Number of Shells for Solid Parts

by andrewchoy

Hi everyone, I was wondering if anyone knows if more shells in a print with 100% infill does anything to increase strength. For instance, if I printed a completely solid part with 2 shells vs the same solid part with 4 shells.

I am using ABS for this, and I'm looking to make a part that can withstand as much pressure and stress as the material can handle. Or maybe if a 0.6mm nozzle instead of a 0.4mm nozzle could be used for added strength in a completely solid part.

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tevo tornado problem

by abuzaidalam

hi, i have been trying to setup an e3dlite6 for my tevo tornado, i have read that you can solder the heater and thermistor wires so i joined the new thermistor and heater cartridge to the old wires which were all wired in, and now when i test heat the hotend to only 60c the hotend heats up and then the screen of the printer goes blank and turns of and the hotend begins to cool down. the printer tries to turn on again, but then the screen turns off. i checked the wires for the screen and everything else, but they all seem fine.
i am wondering if there is some fuse blown or something like that. i checked to make sure that the hotend requires 24v which is what the tevo tornado voltage for the hotend is.
does anyone have any suggestions for what might be wrong?
thanks in advance for any help

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tevo tornado problem

by abuzaidalam

hi, i have been trying to setup an e3dlite6 for my tevo tornado, i have read that you can solder the heater and thermistor wires so i joined the new thermistor and heater cartridge to the old wires which were all wired in, and now when i test heat the hotend to only 60c the hotend heats up and then the screen of the printer goes blank and turns of and the hotend begins to cool down. the printer tries to turn on again, but then the screen turns off. i checked the wires for the screen and everything else, but they all seem fine.
i am wondering if there is some fuse blown or something like that. i checked to make sure that the hotend requires 24v which is what the tevo tornado voltage for the hotend is.
does anyone have any suggestions for what might be wrong?
thanks in advance for any help

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