Filament curling up

by jayko30


I am trying to print some things in PLA but with this specific filament its just not possible because if i try to print it it curles up and does not really stick to the bed i can pushi it with verry little force with my pincet and its just curling up all the time on the first layers...
i tried : Leveling , temp higher - lower both hotend and heatbed , lower speeds and i try to use a brim/raft - but not even the brim/raft is sticking to the print bed wich makes it EXTREMELY difficult....

Print settings:
0,2mm layer
210°C now before 200°C Heatend
75°C now before 68°C bed
before 100mm/s now not even 40mm/s
infill 15%

the quoted before refferes to the settings i used before i used the other colour..

but here comes the clue behind it which baffles me a bit..i used this filament about one week ago and it worked perfectly with no problems in the meantime i used another colour of pla and now it wont even stick to the bed and after i switched back to the white one i now have this problems...

and please no : use buildtak or use hairspray or glue !

see in the pictures what i mean with curling up and not sticking to the bed

please help ....

filament Help settings
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by thijsmaat

dear people I've recently had a snapmaker 1-3 but the filament can not know / know someone how this can be done and how you can solve this


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SolidWorks to OnShape

by sen2two

I use to have access to SolidWorks through my employer, whom I no longer work for. I am now looking at OnShape as a free CAD software for home use.

Has anyone here used it?

It's made my the same company as SW, I'm curious to know if I can use all of my old SW files in OnShape? How similar is it in function?

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Best good-grade filament to use for temps 180-220F

by tateconcepts

Hello all,

I need some honest feedback here. I'm attempting to have printed (my print size is only 6") a print that is used in food grade, high temp applications. I need the safest and highest temp filament possible, hybrid is okay. The designer states they used Nylon, however that will not work over 65C or so (which is too low for 2-3hrs at 140-220F - I need like 100C to make this useful in multiple sessions without getting deformed by hot steam and water).


Does anyone have any suggestions for this item and what I can have a prototype printed on until I get a larger one?

Picobrew Pico Pro grain and hop carrier
by donzash
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My experience with makergeeks

by Phistterbut_Inc

I'm sorry I ever told anyone about this company, really, I am. You all have my sincerest apologies.

The order previous to my last took them two months to get out after I emailed them relentlessly. I guess that's what it takes, an email on the hour every hour. Now, here I am with another order I foolishly placed, patiently waiting (two months later) and warning you all to stay the f*ck away from them. They sent me rolls of PETG with bulges so bad that the filament would get caught before the throat and ruin my print. The customer service is non-existent to say the least, abhorrently so. All of the reviews you can find (not on their website) are around 3/4 negative and reflect what I'm saying here.

Without minging on too much or whining about it, I thought I'd warn future purchasers to stay away. You deserve to know what you're getting into. I'll upload photos soon of the bulges as proof of the lack of QC.

Pictures are up, though low quality. I'm using some Wun Hung Lo inspection camera. The filament is clear and that doesn't help either. Everyone knows that heat creep doesn't happen sporadically and that far up. Measured distance from melted end is 25 mm to beginning of bulge. The bulge is 4 mm long and has a diameter of 2.1 mm.

I should add that their latest instagram photo has nothing but comments reflecting this exact thing. The BBB says they have an F rating with 113 complaints lodged against them.

maker geeks makergeeks run, run far away scam waste of time
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Help with getting a model to print

by YerbaOrbitalSolutions

Hi all, I came across a 3d model of the watch from Metro Last Light and I would like to print it. When it comes to CAD, im a total newbie and Im stuck with parts being transparent in S3D. I have attached the original .OBJ file.
Maybe some of you can get this to work because I sure as hell cant.

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Some CURA slicing help needed

by MakeItMakeItMakeIt

Hi All,

Attached is a PDF with some illustrations.

I have this part, shown in Pic1, 2 and 3, and am trying to slice it so that there is only 2 areas of support..
It was designed not to need it anywhere except for the bottom and the open upper area.

I've tried Tree Support, Pic 5, and it offers what I want, but it's over 19+ hours to print.
It is currently on the plate and printing, but I have doubts as to it's usability afterwards, as some of the tree support has come loose from the plate.

I tried using Support Blocker, shown in Pic 4, in an attempt to eliminate all of the interior support, and that's the best solution I have come up with so far.
There''s still support in the inside under the opening, and it just doesn't need to be there.

Can anyone offer up some insight/advice/proper steps so I can slice this the way I'd like and get the print result I expect?

I'm on Cura 3.6, their latest offering.

Thanks All.

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by skitcher

Does anyone know a good way do design a 3D model of a phone using Fusion 360? It has some curves that is hard to model. Thx.

moto e4 phone


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Movement library - like Spotify for robots

by megamikey

I was a kid back in 80s when our RC trucks servo motor busted and I opened it to examine what was broken. Then I realized that this was an interesting piece that converts electricity to movement. And I thought back then that how would it fit in a robot arm and in what ways to move it. Then I learned to program with different programming languages, but using a 386 PC there was problems to program a serial port to send a steady PWM signal to the servo. I left the ideas to grow and learned to make electrical soldering boards in school.

As older I tried it again with a BeagleBoard, but the idea was not in it's prime back then and I left it. At the same time I thought about this new technology that Torsten Reil had developed, using AI network to control single joints of a biped movement. I wrote to Torsten and suggested to make an Open sourced platform from their technology back in 2006, but there was no answer then. Then I decided to start making my own testing platform, first the idea was to make a simple role playing game like older Elder Scrolls games and to create character movements with AI. That was a tougher job to create and the project got halted. And the character had some simple movements and weapons like spear. Here's an example https://code.google.com/archive/p/gaima/

From there I thought that what would it be like to combine the technology that's used in computer games to robotics. Not meaning that robotics would have same features as computer games but thinking the ways how animation moves characters in 3d space.

So the newest project came with these ideas and is resulted in a new movement library. It's a library where you can store movements and modify and share them. With different configurations you can play the same movement with servos or different kind of serial connected actuators. The movement data itself is licensed with LGPL and there's a premium controller in beta test that offers a movement storage and playback inside from the Raspberry Pi device.

You can attach movements to Thingiverse objects where you can show the models and the configuration of the servos. Here's an example thing to move.

Hope to hear feedback from you soon and what you think!

Brainyhand left
Articulated Decoration Raspberry_Pi robot servo
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