Some CURA slicing help needed

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Hi All,

Attached is a PDF with some illustrations.

I have this part, shown in Pic1, 2 and 3, and am trying to slice it so that there is only 2 areas of support..
It was designed not to need it anywhere except for the bottom and the open upper area.

I've tried Tree Support, Pic 5, and it offers what I want, but it's over 19+ hours to print.
It is currently on the plate and printing, but I have doubts as to it's usability afterwards, as some of the tree support has come loose from the plate.

I tried using Support Blocker, shown in Pic 4, in an attempt to eliminate all of the interior support, and that's the best solution I have come up with so far.
There''s still support in the inside under the opening, and it just doesn't need to be there.

Can anyone offer up some insight/advice/proper steps so I can slice this the way I'd like and get the print result I expect?

I'm on Cura 3.6, their latest offering.

Thanks All.

UPDATE: After some emails with Ultimaker Tech Support, it appears that 3.6.0 has some minor "issues" with where my support is and what I want to remove.
TS tested my model in Beta 4.0, and it's gotten better. Still leaves a little on my model where I don't want it, but I was able to remove 90+% of what I wanted to remove, and I can live with that. For now.

Hi have a look at ideamaker you can put as few and as many supports in as you like just where you need them i use it all the time you would need to set it up for your printer but your love the supports
theres some stuff on youtube as always

As already suggested, incorporate your own supports, I find software generated supports are overkill and add ridiculous amounts of print time to a job and in some situations extremely difficult to remove and clean up without damaging the job.

Sometimes where applicable I will design the part in multiple pieces and screw glue or pin the final part, with pinning I insert 2-3mm brass or stainless wire in the part corners etc like dowels in joinery for strength and support.

In most design and production the challenge is to overcome production/manufacture limitations.

Couldn't agree with that opening statement more! So true.

I actually have done that, i.e., joined multiple parts, but using (plastic) splines in grooves( with plastic epoxy), as I do in woodworking.
It was necessary, as the final assembly is almost 4 build plates in size, so it was designed in pieces.
Never thought of using metal for part joining, other than nuts, bolts, screws and washers.
Something NEW to consider.


I go to a metal wholesaler to get lengths of 3mm stainless and brass wire, with my printer I print the holes .02mm larger and the rods press in firmly, sometimes I rough the rod up with emery paper and add swab glue inside the hole, it softens the plastic and grips the rod when set. I use modelers glue or acrylic solvent you get from women's nail art supply or clear plumbers PVC prepping solvent, it melts and fuses the plastic together drying quickly, I used to use Ether, the best stuff, when the chemists would sell it to you, you dissolve you ABS or PLA into it to thicken it up.

Looking a bit sparse atm, this is some of my joining and bits i use on stuff I build..
I also have draws full of mixed junk not pulled apart yet..

Welcome to MY hardware drawer.
Still have to print more bins, as there's a tray on top that will accommodate the hardware you DON'T see.

Shall we compare electronic drawers? :-)

nice, I have only just started sorting my bits, I have 2x 10 metal draw A4 paper storage units full of unsorted screws and bits..
I will have to start making little bins

Hey, it's a process in and of itself just sorting out stuff and organizing it.

But when it's all right where you need it and can get to it immediately, it will all be worth the effort.

I modified a pin connector I found on here to make it more generally resizable, just for the purpose of allowing for attaching multi-piece parts together. https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:3218332
The design includes a spring-loaded plastic pin and two sockets which are embedded in the parts you want to join.

Modified Parametric Pin Connectors (Round and Pointed, with Customizer)
by acwest

Here's how I did what I needed.

They were long thin edges, 6mm thick, so a 1.9mm spline in a 2mm groove, some epoxy, and it won't ever come apart.

Pin connector is a nice idea though for situation that need it.


I use something similar in my filament dryer spacer. I stole the connector edge directly off the design mine is based on. If the section is long enough, internal friction keeps it from moving

Very nice!
I need to find time to experiment more with snap/slide fittings like that, I have this project in mind...

I HAD to go spline method for my needs on this one, in that the 4 parts I was printing were so large that there was no room on the plate to allow splines to be designed in and be printed.
The 4 sections were right out to my bed extents.
AND, they were designed intentionally to be assembled permanently.

We can't have a sliding tray that holds heavy stuff apart fall now can we? :-)


A possible option is to go back to the part design and include small supports in the areas you need them, something that you can cut away afterwards without much effect on appearance and structure. Then, slice it in Cura without supports. It's worth a shot, unless anyone else has some ideas.

THAT is a very viable option.
I don't want/need to change the actual part design, but I COULD do as you suggest, and just add some stuff to that open area as intentionally sacrificial.
THAT would work, as in the final assembly, you won't even see that open area, but it needs to be that precise shape.
I'll give THAT a shot on the next print, as I have multiple pieces that vary slightly but all have the same characteristic/need.
Thank You!

I would still like to be able to make Cura do what I feel it should in this instance.
And so I still welcome other ideas. :-)

I know what you mean. It's a pain to do a workaround when the software should be able to do this. I'm not sure what you'd have to do in Cura to get it to work right, but from my experience in the past with ideaMaker, there is a way to add supports where you want them, and remove some where you don't. If you have a chance, take a look at it and maybe that can work for you as an alternative. Yet another pain to set up another slicer profile if that's the case.

Yup. I've got Slic3r installed, but haven't spent the time going through it yet, other than looking at the OL help, and I haven't yet found out if Slic3r allows you to Add support where you want it as opposed to taking it away in Cura.
Haven't see that option in Cura yet, hell, I've only been at this for less than a year, always something new to learn every minute.

As I print in 3 diff materials, I maintain 3 separate printer profiles in Cura with specific PID vals in the Start Gcode for each material.
Makes it very easy to switch materials. I don't want to lose that.

Just took a look at the IdeaMaker/Raise3D manual, 178 pages, and I really don't want to learn another slicer... but the suggestion IS appreciated.

Models and slicers and files, Oh My.

I'm gonna give the part in the pic a try with what you suggested, see how it goes, should be ok hopefully (fingers crossed)

The support should have gaps to the main object, 0.4mm at the bottom (it'll level this out and is easy to remove) and 0.2mm at the top (it'll provide enough support and is easy to remove). I do my support in the style of Simplify3D/Cura (interconnected L shapes, every second L flipped along the x-axis, generating a support line every 4mm), 1.1*nozzle width.
Your support lines are spaced around 20mm (my guess), thus the supported area might not look that good compared to 4mm.


Actually, the gaps at the tops of the support V's in my pic are less than 10mm apart.
I believe/expect it'll bridge just fine, as I bridged up to 15mm before and it was fine.
But if not......I now have better support instructions. :-)

Bridging 15mm is not the same as bridging 60mm with support every 15mm, you'll notice it. Give it a try with 4mm spacing and you'll see the surface will be similar to parts printed on blue painter tape.

Printed on a TOM, in PLA, with Sailfish.
Took about 6 hours. I might try to scale it up a bit to the maximum size the TOM allows.