So here's what I'm thinking

by Bionicback321

After X-mas I bought a 3018 Pro CNC machine and quickly realized I needed a 3D printer (Ender-3) so that I could add limit switches. I've using PLA for all my prints and it' been working out pretty well. The big problem is I bought the large spool of black not realizing just how long it takes to go through that much filament. I'm new to 3D printing so my projects have been small and now I'm finding out that my filament is getting brittle mostly because it's in the garage and I live in Florida.

I'm in the process of building a storage box out of a plastic cereal storage container, I ordered some extra bowden tubing and connecting fittings. My thought was to run tubing all the way from the storage box to the filament input side of my direct drive extruder. I was going to drill and tap the hole where the filament normally enters the extruder so that I could thread on the tube fitting. That way the filament would not be exposed to the hot, humid Florida air. I edited a picture of a standard direct drive like the one I have to look like what I'm thinking of doing. I also found a picture of an extruder with fittings on each side, kind of like what I want to do. Any thoughts? Good idea? Bad idea? Am I asking for trouble? I would love to hear you thoughts.

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Last 12 hours for ORC Tusklands Kickstarter!!!

by rocketpiggames

We have unlocked dozens of Stretch Goals and more by the end! Download the FREE goblin hound miniature and our PDF sourcebook sample!!!

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Extruder stopped mid print, no nozzle jam...

by LostYorMarbles

Hey all,
I'm wondering if anyone has any thoughts or guidance on this issue. I've taken a look at the G-code and don't see anything out of the norm. Attached is the gcode for if anyone is curious. I'm printing a scaled up Leo benchy and am frustrated is stopped extruding. When I finally came to my printer I could manually turn the extruder while it was still printing. it stopped around layer height 4.8mmand was turning out amazingly otherwise. Yesterday I printed a bell siphon out of the same material with the same settings that limited out on the height.
Using Prusa Slic3r

I'm going to try it again a little bigger. if there's anything else info wise let me know.

Thanks ahead of time
Mike Hood

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Completely Clogged Micro-Swiss Hotend

by CactusHamster

I have a Micro-Swiss Hotend that is clogged with ABS to the point that I can't even take it apart. I have tried soaking it in acetone, and heating it up and cleaning it. The ABS is is the heating block, nozzle, and the piece that connects the cooling block to the heating block. After I heated everything up to 285C, I used some filament to clean it out, but the cooling block and heating block wouldn't go back together, and more filament got stuck as I tried to print with the unaligned hotend. I the connector piece won't come off of the heating block. I soaked the connector, nozzle, and heating block in acetone for 18 hours, and only about 1/2 of the ABS is gone. Does anyone have any ideas on fixing it?

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How to print PC in my Ender 3 pro??

by bilymaly

I try to print PC in my Ender 3 Pro but I have warping, I try to printed on the glass and on the magnet surface but finally the warping appears...
I print with 260º the nozzle and 110º the bed.

Some one can help me?

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Diagonal lines on my print

by amaral1987daniel

Hi! I getting weird diagonal lines on my print and can't figure it out where they come from! I have try changing the slicer cura, simplify3d, slic3r. I have change the z lead screw for new one, i have rebuild the all machine and put together with more care, i have tighten the belts, i have tune the coencentric nots on all axis, i have try tune pots of steppers drive on mother board, i try fix the stl on many sofware and nothing works. if some can help me i appreciated

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SAFETY FIRST! Ender 3 XT60 Connector Replacement

by sbeecroft

Here is my guide for replacing your faulty XT60 connectors... if you have an Ender 3 this is probably a good idea.


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