These are just some ideas I'm thinking about. I'm currently building a Prusa Tall Bear with the frame from ALL3D (authorized distributor) with a BTT 1.4 Turbo mainboard, 2209 drivers, 0.9 degree motors, and E3D Hemera extruder, when they come in stock. When I'm done I'd like to update the FFCP. The FFCP really has a lot going for it: sturdy enclosed case, Meanwell power supply, and the electronics are neatly placed underneath it, which the Prusa lacks. The only thing wrong with it are the electronics which can be upgraded with the Turbo, 2209 drivers, and Marlin 2.0. Since I can't get a Hemera I might get a Titan Aero Gold and then put that in my FFCP, as a single extruder setup along with another BBT 1.4 Turbo, when the Hemera is available. With a little reworking of the x- and y-axis's the print area could be increased to 7x11". The hard part is the x-motor that fits between the rods. I'll have to design and print new parts to place rods vertical vs horizontal and accept the Titan. Looking at the insides of the FFCP this looks possible. This setup would give me the ability to print just about anything without too much $$$ and not having to build an enclosure for the Prusa. Also, I'll have all of the Prusa parts, except the extruder, within the next week. I have no idea when the Hemera will be in stock and I can get the Titan now. Has anyone ever tried something like this? Thanks.
I’m getting a plastic creaking sound on my Creator Pro whenever my printer moves along the x axis.
See clip: https://youtu.be/17dguFsOjL0
My first thought was it was time to be lubricated. I have tried greasing the x-axis support rods to no avail.
Has anyone ever experienced this type of creakIng sound? These aren’t my normal 3D printers, so I don’t have tons of experience with them. Only brought them home from work to setup a COVID-19 Print farm while I left my larger printer at work.
I have a std Creator Pro 2016 and for the past week have been trying to get eSun PetG Natural to stick to the build plate. I have tried all manuf recommended temps for both extruder (230-250) and bed (55 - 80). Im doing a 200mm purge before printing at 10mm\s first layer onto a glass bed with purple glue stick (.3mm first layer, .2 layer height). The filament tends to ball around the end of the nozzle and any shells that are layed down are easily lifted by the filament blob on the extruder at subsequent passes.
PLA and ABS print fine with the current Z offset of zero.
One of the suggestions is to move the build plate further away from the nozzle end by changing the Z offset value on the lcd panel pre print.
After reading the explanation of the Z Home Offset on the Sailfish site it appears I need to put a negative value for Z offset to move the plate further away.
Why then when I use jog mode from the lcd panel does Z+ appear below the down arrow, which when pushed moves the plate down?
I have tried negative values from -.02 to -.1 and the build plate hasnt hit the nozzle but there was no change in first layer adhesion either. Im reluctant to put too large a positive value for Z offset for fear of a crash into the nozzle. I could not discern a difference in behavior with each additional -.02 increment I tried so am still unsure if it should be a positive or negative value.
Do I use a negative value for Z offset to move the build plate further away from the nozzle on the CP2016 LCD panel?
While printing, my Flash Forge Finder quits feeding filament during the print.
I've tried several different test print .stl files. Some experience the same problem and then another time printing the same .stl it will print fine.
Troubleshooting so far:
Filament reel spins fine
Extruder does feed during loading and during start of print
I've changed print temperatures from lower to higher, does not change the the printer to stop feeding during the print
I've cleaned the PTFE tube and nozzle (.4mm nozzle)
I replaced the PTFE tube and nozzle with a new PTFE tube and new nozzle (.4mm nozzle)
I've checked the extruder gear and it looks clean. I've brushed it with a brass brush.
I've tried 3 different spools of PLA filament that 2 have worked previously. 1 spool was brand new out of the shrink wrap.
At first I was unloading then reloading filament and trying a test print.
Next I left the filament loaded. The only change was to leave the Flash Forge Finder where I stopped the print (sometimes 10% sometimes 23%, usually after 1 1/4 - 1 1/2 hour). Removed the print bed. Cleaned the failed print off the bed. Replaced the bed. Started a new test print, and the Flash Forge Finder started printing again. Feeding filament even though it had just stopped feeding during the previous print.
After changing the nozzle and PTFE tube it still has the same problem.
I'm stumped. Any suggestions?
Also, I followed this thread and it appeared to taper off without a solution also. Similar but different machine and different extrusion
I have a Flashforge Creator Pro, and I want to try and print with ninjaflex. I have a roll of the filament now. I used the Flashforge standard slicer software FlashPrint.
It comes with a few basic settings for PLA and ABS. I go into the advanced version of that too change a few settings here and there to get better prints. But I'm not sure where to start with NinjaFlex?
Anyone here print put this on their Creator Pro?