Is there anyone let me know length of this screw?

by luxflow

Is this 40mm screw?
if I tight screw, there is gap on top and extrude fail, Is this normal?
should I loose screw?

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Poor prints. I think its mechanical

by Moby58

Hi Guys,

I have a Creator Pro.

Lately noticed the the prints are no were as good as they used to be.

I have been doing some tweaking in Simplify 3d, but not fixing.

There seems to be a slight rattle/vibration coming from the machine, and by look of prints, I think it is a mechanical problem (bearings, etc), but dont want to replace everything.

Have included a picture of latest prints, and interested in any ideas and where to start.

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FFCP 2016, larger (8x10") build plate?

by shocksofmighty

I've seen a number of references to using larger build plates. I'd like to print a piece that is 200x183mm in one go, instead of splitting it up. I cut a 8x10" piece of glass and printed out the corners I found here, but for the life of me I don't see that it is possible to boost the build plate in Y. The Y-stop prevents going back (and there is no way to move it back as the mount stops it) and the sled doesn't move far enough forward to get much more than 10 or so mm past the stock build plate. Am I missing something?

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FF Inventor/Dreamer Belt Tightening

by jorginthesage

Anyone know how I would go about tightening the belts on my FF Inventor? It seems like they clip in and could be advanced a bit, but just wanted to know if anyone had gone down this route.

I’m troubleshooting some ringing and dimensional accuracy issues. They aren’t bad, but they could be better.

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Octolapse Settings for the FFCP

by MadByte

I'm looking for a guide on how to configure Ocolapse for an Creator Pro (FFCP) printer.

I've been running my FFCP with a Toshiba Flash Air SD card for about two year and it has worked quite well for me. Recently I started to tinker with Octoprint in order to run Octolapse. Octoprint is running fine for the most part. I'm able to monitor the print from my phone and even make time-lapsed videos. What I can't get to work is Octolapse which has some very cool features. Any suggestions?

BTW, I'm running DrLex's firmware. Thanks DrLex!

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ABS or printer help please

by grumpyintheshed

Hello, complete noob here! Currently using a FF Guider 2 and having had success with PLA thought I'd try some ABS. My first results are not exactly stellar.
Just as a quick test I found the following file https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:4687899 and gave it a go with the Guiders preset for ABS (220/105), but there were 'holes' on the top and a the whole thing possibly squished a bit - there was no opening at the mouth for example.
In my ignorance I thought I'd try again but with a higher temp. this time 235/105 as the filament (Filaprint Apple Green Premium ABS 1.75) box suggests 220-270, this produced the same result. This time I noticed while printing that the print nozzle was pushing down the front edge of the model as it went past it, but only on the one (front ) edge. Does this mean I need to perhaps increase the distance or something?
If someone could point me in the right direction it would most appreciated.
Short video here of squishing https://youtu.be/odO0dGDMJXo (the noise is not the printer by the way :) )

Baby Yoda Toothpaste Vomit- One print
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FlashForge Creator Pro Dimensional Accuracy

by samppan

My PLA print is at 0.3mm, wondering what's everyone else?
Is there room for more accuracy? If so, how do you achieve it?

Also, I found PLA prints better without the hood, especially with larger prints; my guess is the chamber temperature gets warmer over time.

I did calibration with below:

PrusaSlicer (using DrLex's printer/filament config.)
0.4mm nozzle (factory)

Some dimensional accuracy test prints below:

Customizable 3D Tolerance Test
by zapta
Make: 2017 3D Printer Test Files
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Flashprint "eats" the base

by tbollinger63

Beginner here - pls point me in the right direction: I downloaded a 3D landscape (Swiss Alps) and fiddled around until everything looked fine, then I imported it into Flashprint. First it looks the same but when I try to print, it subtracts the plaines and lakes and it looks like it is going to print the peaks mid air (which will cerainly not work). I tried with and without rafts and all the settings that somehow made sense to me - but the result on screen isn't promising at all.
So my question is: How do I prevent Flashprint subtracting the bottom layers of my model?
Any help is appreciated. Thank you.

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Flashforge Adventurer 3 ABS no fan, cooling down between layers

by rinkel

I'm trying to print ASA/ABS without any fans, because this makes the object much stronger. (tried with fan on)
But the wall gets really blobby at the edges.
So i tried the settings: Decelerate/Delay for filament cooling. Set this to about 60mm^2 (more than enough for this small wall)
But this doesn't do anything. Result is still blobby.

Anyone used this with any success?


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