General

I'm looking for a guide on how to configure Ocolapse for an Creator Pro (FFCP) printer.

I've been running my FFCP with a Toshiba Flash Air SD card for about two year and it has worked quite well for me. Recently I started to tinker with Octoprint in order to run Octolapse. Octoprint is running fine for the most part. I'm able to monitor the print from my phone and even make time-lapsed videos. What I can't get to work is Octolapse which has some very cool features. Any suggestions?

BTW, I'm running DrLex's firmware. Thanks DrLex!

its my favorite and I love it. I printed a benchy and it be looking fine

I want to do proper timelapse with the FFCP 2016.

I've read about Octolapse, which moves the extruder head to a neutral position after each layer, taking a shot, then starting the next layer. That's fantastic for stability (the head isn't moving around in the XY) during the shoot.

However...the FFCP 2016 has spastic LED lighting, from all different directions, seemingly uncontrollable.

Is there a way to control the FFCP 2016's lights? I'd like them to be either A) all off (I can supply my own lighting), or B) all on (controlled).

I have a new Creator Pro 2 coming and am having trouble finding a decent slicer for this printer.

I downloaded FlashPrint and as most already know (and now myself) this is not very functional and lacks many (if not most) features of other slicers, such as Cura 4.8.0.

Anyone have options? What are you using with your Creator Pro 2?

My PLA print is at 0.3mm, wondering what's everyone else?
Is there room for more accuracy? If so, how do you achieve it?

Also, I found PLA prints better without the hood, especially with larger prints; my guess is the chamber temperature gets warmer over time.

I did calibration with below:
https://github.com/DrLex0/print3d-100mm-calibration

Setup/Config:
PrusaSlicer (using DrLex's printer/filament config.)
0.4mm nozzle (factory)

Some dimensional accuracy test prints below:
https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:2318105
https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:2755063

Adventurer 3 Lite; FlashPrint; Printed with no raft. Everything else is default setting. It looks like the bottom layer or layers are missing. The whole print is also about 0.5mm shorter than it should be.
Any ideas what's going on? Thanks!

https://i.imgur.com/jlUMVTt.jpg

When I print with the right extruder, the nozzle moves to the right of the bed to prime but when I use the left nozzle, it doesn't go to the left side to do the prime, it stays to the right and extrudes straight onto the bed rather than off the side. It also prints off the bed when I do large prints as if it hasn't offset the x-axis to account for using the left nozzle.

The test prints on the card work OK so it must be an issue with simplify3d?

Any ideas?

my flashforge finder has splitting layers on the x axis i have tried tightening the belts but it does not work. can some one help me

Good Day;

We have been using the Creator Max with PLA and had great success with printing on the blue sheets that came in the box. The issue is PLA does not stick without brims or rafts, but then some printed pieces break when trying to remove the raft or brim (articulated lizard, frog). We had loads of trouble with PETG.

To solve this, we upgraded to the borosilicate glass bed, 3mm, sprayed on Aquanet, printed off the PETG shim (perfect) and now we are not getting the PLA to stick at all. Original setting was 210 print head and 50 bed; We tried out 210 print head and 60 bed. The filament threads are visible when they were not prior to the glass bed upgrade. We keep getting what looks like warping and delamination. My settings are always to keep the fans off.

We are total noobs with the 3d filament printing and don't know if this is still cold - does the print head also need to be raised on temperature with the bed?