On my brand-new Adventurer 3, the print bed sticker just failed after a total of at most 15 prints. The failure mode is that a bit of it peeled off in an irregular triangle when I removed the printed object from the print bed.
Is there a proper way to handle this kind of print bed so that it lasts a bit longer? I read about people applying glue to the print bed to get the prints to stick, but I have had no problems with lack of stickiness ... if anything, it's the opposite.
I just thought I had figured out that the trick was to flex the flexible print bed a little to get prints off the bed, but if that's likely to tear holes into the surface, that's a bit too costly in the long run.
Any tips you might have would be highly appreciated!
I have been fiddling with the blue bed sticker and similar BuildTak-like surfaces in my Creator Pro for about 6 months, with similar problems as you describe. The answer to your question is “no” in my opinion. Either the prints stuck too hard and then the surface became damaged by trying to detach the prints, or the prints didn't stick well enough.
Once I had tried a glass bed with hairspray for adhesion, I never looked back. Prints stick consistently and detach easily when the bed has cooled down below a certain temperature. Plus, the bottom of prints is perfectly flat and smooth, which is useful in many situations.
Not sure if the A3 allows to install a glass plate as bed surface, but if it does, it's worth considering.
Thanks a lot!
Maybe I should just get my greasy fingerprints all over the build plate to ensure mediocre adhesion "naturally" ;-(
A glass plate sounds like a good idea in general, but on the A3, it would have to be a fairly thin one which I'm not sure would be strong enough to withstand regular handling. I wouldn't like a thin glass plate crack in my hands ...
It depends, I use a 3 mm plate, which is strong enough for a 230x150mm size. Thicker is stronger, but will also cause more of a temperature drop between the heater and the top surface of the glass. It must be borosilicate glass though, I wouldn't trust regular glass with the temperature changes of a heated bed.
Thanks, that sounds like very useful advice!
However, I also see some practicalality issues due to the specific design of the Adventurer 3. It is fitted with a 1.2 mm metal plate, so any glass plate would probably have to go on top of that. At the same time, I'm not sure how much of a thickness difference the calibration routine can handle ... if I replace the very thin sticker with 3 mm glass plate, the starting position for calibration would insert the nozzle 2 mm into the glass. And there's also the issue of the bed temperature sensor, which I guess is located in the metal part of the lower bed ... perfectly fine for use with the sticker, but the top of a 3 mm glass plate might have quite a bit of temperature difference against the sensor, I fear.
So, I'm not sure if it's possible to do a glass conversion, though it certainly sounds like an attractive solution!