I've got a creator pro 2016 which I've been printing with for several months. The thing is a damn workhorse and an artist and my prints are almost always perfect first time.
However, I'm now trying to tighten down the quality even more and I've spent the last few days trying to work my problem of bars appearing at certain points on my prints in a Simplify3D thread (http://www.thingiverse.com/groups/simplify3d/topic:9611)
I've now come to the conclusion that these bars appear due to vibrations after sudden changes of extruder direction on the XY axis.
From what I can tell, I need to fiddle with acceleration for this but I'm not sure how to activate it on the Creator Pro or if there's anything I need to know before doing so.
click [ Commit changes ] to make them permanent.
Note that there are two buttons [ Fine quality ] and [ Quick draft ] which will reset the numbers to defaults.
With these, the ringing is almost gone.
NOTE: The ringing increases with wear on the linear bearings and belt tension.
More notes: The numbers set a fairly slow acceleration speed, I also have a "slow" general speed.
ReplicatorG: Edit slicing profiles > select one to COPY and modify for testing > click Edit > click Craft > click Speed >
Change the Feed Rate and Flow rate (mine are 50mm/s)
click Save All and Exit (menu)
What I do to determine the level of acceptable ringing on my FFCP is to print a test model like this http://www.thingiverse.com/thing:1928484 then I will print at varying speeds per section and make note of where the ringing becomes significant enough for me to decide it's worth the tradeoff for the slower print.
The name for this phenomenon is ‘ringing,’ because it is caused by parts of the printer vibrating like a bell after the heads have suddenly changed velocity. Especially the carriage will ring due to elasticity of the belts, but other parts like the bed or the enclosure may also contribute.
You can change acceleration through the ReplicatorG program. The defaults are 1000 for both X and Y. I reduced X to 500 and Y to 750, but this is a compromise between reducing ringing and not slowing down prints too much. If you really want to get a lot less ringing, you'll need lower values, or just print more slowly, which is what I usually do.
I don't believe acceleration for Sailfish can be changed by means of G-codes (commands in the x3g file), therefore setting different values in your slicer program will probably do nothing, at least in Slic3r it doesn't. If anyone can prove otherwise, I'd like to hear what specific G-codes do work. You can test whether changes to acceleration are effective, by doing a print with two small objects at a large distance from each other. If you decrease acceleration considerably, you should hear the print head take more time to speed up and slow down while doing the travel move between the two objects.
Actually that's only for what in CNC Machining is called "Rapid" when the machine tool is NOT printing but is moving about the workspace, eg. changing position from the completion of one feature to the location of the start of another feature. Changing this setting will be a direct cause & effect change on the ringing artifacts the OP is having. It may certainly help, just as actually slowing the print speeds would.
The tool top that pops up on S3d for the X/Y Axis Movement Speed you're referring to states:
"Rapid movement speed for X/Y axes for when the machine is not printing"
Right. I was misinterpreting what the OP was referring to. Right above those in S3D is Default Print Speed. The FFCP2016 defaults to 3600 mm/min (I think those are the units). I usually run at 2000-3000 depending on what I'm printing.
I've got a creator pro 2016 which I've been printing with for several months. The thing is a damn workhorse and an artist and my prints are almost always perfect first time.
However, I'm now trying to tighten down the quality even more and I've spent the last few days trying to work my problem of bars appearing at certain points on my prints in a Simplify3D thread (http://www.thingiverse.com/groups/simplify3d/topic:9611)
I've now come to the conclusion that these bars appear due to vibrations after sudden changes of extruder direction on the XY axis.
From what I can tell, I need to fiddle with acceleration for this but I'm not sure how to activate it on the Creator Pro or if there's anything I need to know before doing so.
My printer is running: Sailfish F Creator X
FF Creator Pro 2016 with sailfish 7.7 r01592
Printer menu: Utilities > General Settings > Acceleration ON/OFF
Connect the printer to your computer...
(mine needs 30 seconds, then it restarts and allows working with it. I'm using Linux)
ReplicatorG - sailfish - 40r33, menu: Machine > On board preferences > /Motherboard\ > /Acceleration\
My settings are aimed at as close to 100% successful prints as possible. The settings has ended up with these numbers...
X/Y/Z/right/left
...acceleration: 100/ 100/ 150/ 200/ 200
... max speed change: 15/ 15/ 10/ 20/ 20
click [ Commit changes ] to make them permanent.
Note that there are two buttons [ Fine quality ] and [ Quick draft ] which will reset the numbers to defaults.
With these, the ringing is almost gone.
NOTE: The ringing increases with wear on the linear bearings and belt tension.
More notes: The numbers set a fairly slow acceleration speed, I also have a "slow" general speed.
ReplicatorG: Edit slicing profiles > select one to COPY and modify for testing > click Edit > click Craft > click Speed >
Change the Feed Rate and Flow rate (mine are 50mm/s)
click Save All and Exit (menu)
In the G Code change the Vref of the X and Y to 80
Do you mean with a G130 command? Can you explain how this will affect acceleration?
What I do to determine the level of acceptable ringing on my FFCP is to print a test model like this http://www.thingiverse.com/thing:1928484 then I will print at varying speeds per section and make note of where the ringing becomes significant enough for me to decide it's worth the tradeoff for the slower print.
The name for this phenomenon is ‘ringing,’ because it is caused by parts of the printer vibrating like a bell after the heads have suddenly changed velocity. Especially the carriage will ring due to elasticity of the belts, but other parts like the bed or the enclosure may also contribute.
You can change acceleration through the ReplicatorG program. The defaults are 1000 for both X and Y. I reduced X to 500 and Y to 750, but this is a compromise between reducing ringing and not slowing down prints too much. If you really want to get a lot less ringing, you'll need lower values, or just print more slowly, which is what I usually do.
I don't believe acceleration for Sailfish can be changed by means of G-codes (commands in the x3g file), therefore setting different values in your slicer program will probably do nothing, at least in Slic3r it doesn't. If anyone can prove otherwise, I'd like to hear what specific G-codes do work. You can test whether changes to acceleration are effective, by doing a print with two small objects at a large distance from each other. If you decrease acceleration considerably, you should hear the print head take more time to speed up and slow down while doing the travel move between the two objects.
If you are using S3D this should be able to change this in the "Other" tab of the Profile. X/Y movement speed and Z-axis movement speed.
Actually that's only for what in CNC Machining is called "Rapid" when the machine tool is NOT printing but is moving about the workspace, eg. changing position from the completion of one feature to the location of the start of another feature. Changing this setting will be a direct cause & effect change on the ringing artifacts the OP is having. It may certainly help, just as actually slowing the print speeds would.
The tool top that pops up on S3d for the X/Y Axis Movement Speed you're referring to states:
"Rapid movement speed for X/Y axes for when the machine is not printing"
Right. I was misinterpreting what the OP was referring to. Right above those in S3D is Default Print Speed. The FFCP2016 defaults to 3600 mm/min (I think those are the units). I usually run at 2000-3000 depending on what I'm printing.