I am hoping that I can get some help here as the after sales care I am getting is not good at all.
I have been having trouble trying to level my bed on my Flsun i3 plus. It sounds a simple thing to do but here is the issue. I have what appears to be a bend along the diagonal of the bed from front right to back left. I have been getting along by barely having any pressure on to of the leveling screws and trying to apply as little as I can to the other 2 and it has been working to a degree but I just can't get it level and presumed that is something I am doing wrong.
When I run the autolevel routine I get these results or roughly these every time...
+1.000000 +0.000000 +0.000059
-0.000000 +1.000000 +0.000070
-0.000059 -0.000070 +1.000000
I have checked that my frame is square and tried putting a spacer on the springs on the two low corners to try and correct it but with no luck and I get the feeling that this means a replacement bed and/or carriage is needed.
I have had a couple of minor issues with heating and a terrible y-axis tensioner that I have managed to struggle my way though as I am getting no help from the seller on Aliexpress.
I have only made 3 upgrades to it that should have no effect with the bed. I made a z-axis brace, anti vibration feet and a Printbite+ surface on the bed (the issues started before putting the Printbite on).
Does anybody have any suggestions of what else I can try please?
So, I've noticed that there isn't much exposure for what differentiates the BT7272A board supplied with the FLSUN Prusa i3 and the more common Ramps 1.4 Plus board.
If you've attempted to use the Arduino IDE to upgrade your FLSUN Prusa clone using various instructions available on the internet you won't be able to get it running. You'll find that the LCD stops working or displays junk, not to worry. You haven't suddenly changed over to Klingon.
This is basically because the Marlin firmware does not have a compatible configuration with the firmware configuration supplied on the SDcard. The sdcard and by extension the board by default is running an older version of Marlin. That older version used a different way of configuring things.
So, after a bit of searching I found this. https://github.com/RobAltenburg/Marlin
The guy forked the latest Marlin firmware for his BT7272A board and LCD display. Unfortunately, it didn't quite work out of the box. So, after a bit of trial and error I found the source of the compilation errors. Basically, the configuration cahnges were not pointing to the right abstracted configuration file.
Here's my update which should work right away: https://github.com/hominidae/Marlin
You'll still need to follow the Marlin compilation and follow build instructions but you'll still need to change the various board specific configuration parameters to match the BT7272A board. (Which you will now conveniently have a configuration file for.)
As the main Marlin firmware has recently released a bunch of changes, I'll check it later to see that it still compiles correctly soon and I will post an update with what I find to get my FLSUN 3d printer running the latest Marlin firmware.
Hello. Just got an flsun printer i3 version and am having issues correcting the z offset..i use matter control and normally its easy to correct the z if its not accurate...this time no matter what i do when i try to home. it goes to the center of the bed, raises about 40mm and stops...im assuming i need to flash the firmware but dont seem to find an easy path to that...as for my printer, i have installed the dual extruder cyclops (first time using a dual, so im sure ill have issues once i get to that point as well..) any help would be greatly appreciated..
So about one month ago I got my FLSUN i3 plus 2017 kit. It is not my first kit (got an Anet A8) and as so this is coming from someone who has a bit of experience with kits and fixing things.
Regarding the flsun kit is a very cheap and almost complete kit. I say ALMOST cause there is one piece that you'll have at least to get that being a blower fan and support for it. I tried to print without it and overhangs fail. If you have one of this and can print a benchy with a good front without the blower fan please ping me.
Also missing, regarding tools, is one of those flush cutters that usually comes with printers
Lastly, but most important, I don't know how hard it is to include a handful of crimp connectors or the cables that go to the PSU pre crimped. This is just basic safety.
In my kit there was a defective screw that binds the extruder gear to the shaft. After talking with the seller they provided to send me a free replacement gear and screw.
The assembly instructions for a cheap china kit are far from perfect but still coming from an ANET A8 this ones are alot better to understand. This is by no means as easy as a Creality CR10.
Regarding the "extras" that are usually shown as options in sites like Gearbest, ebay, or aliexpress there is options for touch screen, autolevel sensor and cyclops/chimera hotends.
My suggestion is for basic stuff just get the autolevel sensor, if you want a dual extruder you could get the cyclops/chimera. The touch screen is like very optional as in fact it even has less functions than other screens. This is due to the fact that the touch screen is different board altogether that sends commands to the main printer board. It has its own firmware.
When it comes to printing that's when you will have problems if are not experienced with 3d printers. The default Marlin configuration that comes on the firmware just sucks. If you slice a model with a slicer that doesn't set acceleration, jerk and some other settings it will use the printer defaults that are awful.
The easy way to set it working is to use Cura 3.1.0 and choose the CR10 4S and modify things like bed size, offsets, retraction and speeds.
The hard way, that I still haven't done due to lack of time, is to flash marlin with my own custom settings.
TBH I didn't try to use the slicer and software that comes on sdcard because usually that versions are old as hell and my preferred slicer is cura. Also I distrust the origin of the software as I'm mindful of security reasons
Also on my TODO list it to install the dual extruder. Another problem that I can predict with this is that you are unable to mount the sensor and the blower fan with the new carriage for dual extruder. For the sensor you can find a solution that you can print but then again reconfigure marlin sensor position values. For the blower+dual extruder there is one item that you can also print but in my opinion is just not good enough.
So after installing a blower fan with v3 clone it printed just a great test benchy and some other small prints. I'll be further configuring and testing this printer.