Recent Topics

PETG Settings

by Clayzer

I just got a Trex 3.0+ and I am struggling to print PETG. Its my hot end. I cant get the dang thing to stop slipping.
Temp: 250
Bed: 70
Speed: down to 40mm
Steps per 100mm of filament - 237 (This is from the stock 93mm which was under extruding and slipping)

My Rostock Delta printer can print PETG at 60mm easy without issues.

Am I missing some thing?

I am using cura.

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Xinkebot Orca2 vs Formbot T Rex2 (vs Multoo MT1)

by ozfunghi

Hey, anybody with a comparison between these printers? They all look alike and offer similar products: 400*400 bed, 480 Z for Xinkebot, 470 Z for Formbot and 410 Z for Multoo. All with dual extrusion. Multoo and Formbot have an optional laser engraver. Formbot has optional wifi. Formbot has BLtouch, the Xinkebot uses a different sensor. Multoo is not as tall, but can be ordered with a custom height. Xinkebot claims to have a leveling that can adjust mid-print.

Xinkebot claims it's better than Formbot for the following reasons, and i quote (from a message they sent me):
"The reasons why our Orca2 Cygnus is better than Formbot are as follows:
1) We use all choice materials on the market while they use those of lower quality. So, after a period of use, some parts of the T-Rex often break down and they don't have good after-sales service. While with us, you will have our lifelong technical support and enjoy our individual after-sales service.
2) Many parts of our Orca2 Cygnus have been re-designed or improved, it's now a quality printer that is very easy to use. For example, we have integrate the heated bed to the control box, re-designed the z-endstop and simplified the wiring of the printer, so there's no annoying wiring and leveling now. However, you will find the T-Rex is difficult to use after a period of time due to defects in the design.
3) Our Orca2 Cygnus has the FCC and RoHS approved while CE is under the tests, so there's no need of you worrying about its quality. But the T-Rex doesn't have this kind of guarantee of product quality.
4) They are not even a formal company in China and there's no guarantee of their product. However, we are a formal manufacturer and we are famous for our large format 3D printer in the line.
As for the auto leveling sensor, yes, it can work with glass. It is similar to the BL Touch sensor and can work with beds made of different materials.
As for the WiFi, our mass produced version does not have this function for the time being. However, we reserve the wifi module on the motherboard so it can be customized. "

I also contacted Formbot with some questions. Formbot claims all the BLtouch and E3D hotends are original and not clones, however, that they do use custom nozzles (better than the original according to them). I quote:
"the BLTouch is genuine, made in South Korea, you can contact with www.antclabs.com for checking.
as to E3D volcano extruder, the heating block and threaded tube are genuine, but we have escalated the nozzle, and make it longer and more sharp, so the filament won't be sticked to nozzle, which is better than original nozzle.
we have tested the original E3D volcano nozzle, it's easy to be sticked with filament during printing, so we made some improvement on it."

So if anybody has any info or experience with these printers, do share. I also contacted gCreate, but they were a lot less helpful and forthcoming honestly. I sent a message to all three companies on the same day, but while i received a response from the Chinese clone companies the same day, with helpful information about shipping and declaration, i had to wait three days for gCreate to respond, and their response to ship to Europe was basically, that i had to figure it out on my own, and i had to provide them with a shipping label and documents, no mention of cost.

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Slic3r Settings

by Frank_The_Tank

Anyone happen to have a fairly well dialed in profile for Slic3r/Prusa Slicer? I'm wanting to start using Prusa Slicer more for some of my prints so I can use the Variable Layer Height feature, but I seem to be having issues dialing in the speed/acceleration/jerk settings. If I leave it at default, the print takes twice as long as any other slicing software, but when I try to edit the settings, the print bed flies all over the place and I get all kinds of layer shifting.

I tried contacting the manufacturer, but they just said "just use 60mm/s" which is fine and dandy for the base print speed, but I need help with all the other settings too. Thanks!

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Trex 2+

by sen2two

Talk me out of the Formbot Trex 2+.... Or I will order one this weekend! (Is there a 3 coming anytime soon? Should I wait?)

Seriously, how is this printer not more popular? I haven't found a reason not to buy it yet. So for those who own and use it regularly, please tell me the bad as well as the good. The only downfall i have found so far is the lack of community.

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Formbot T-Rex 2 IDX Pin-out 40 Pin IDC

by Duker44

If anyone has the desire to add their own control board to the frame replacing the stock one.
Here's the Pinnout for the IDC connector

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