Geeetech Aluminum Prusa i3 Owner

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Recent Topics

Change Leadscrew

by WhiteFlash87

Hi. I have the non-"M" leadscrew. i want to change it for a standardized dimmension leadscrew. Do i just get a M8 threaded rod and cut it to size?
What changes do i have to make in my software? i still have the stock firmware on my board.

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The first thing to do after buying this printer

by omar555

well after buying the geeetech aluminium prusa i3 i had lots of problem everytime i fix something another problem pops up so if you just bought this printer here's the first thing you should do :

replace the old board with a ramps 1.4 board and the most important thing to do is to make the Heat Sink hole bigger (atleast 10mm diameter) this is the first thing you need to do after buying this printer (the hole that the motor shaft go throught) the problem is as the extruder heats up the motor shaft becomes larger so it starts touching the heat sink so the printer will stop extruding plastic. i've spent hours trying to figure out the problem so as i was replacing the extruder i've noticed scratches in the heat sink . Hope this help anyone cheers.

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Marlin 1.1.9 Firmware for "Geeetech i3 A Pro" (lead screw)

by core2

Would like to post my Marlin Firmware 1.1.9 for Geeetech i3 A Pro (with lead screw upgrade and GT2560 board). I got some good printing results with it. Linear advanced is not active! Manual bedleveling is activated. Maybe someone finds this helpful.

But before you use it - read the following text carefully!

I replaced the old stepperdrivers (A4988) for x,y,z axis with TMC2208. If you have the old ones change following lines in configuration.h back to:

define X_DRIVER_TYPE A4988

define Y_DRIVER_TYPE A4988

define Z_DRIVER_TYPE A4988

also change the following lines back to:

define INVERT_X_DIR true

define INVERT_Y_DIR true

define INVERT_Z_DIR false

I also experienced "homing-errors" with the standart A4988 stepperdrivers. Upgrading to TMC2208 solved the problem.
When using A4988 stepper drivers and having problems with homing your printer try this:


But maybe you loose accuracy on homing.

I use a custom cooling fan and set my own KP, KI, KD settings for 195°C. Cooling Fan: https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:2329594. So maybe go back to default:

define DEFAULT_Kp 22.2

define DEFAULT_Ki 1.08

define DEFAULT_Kd 114

I calibrated my extruder to value of 95 steps/mm. So don't forget to adjust to your own value at:

define DEFAULT_AXIS_STEPS_PER_UNIT { 80, 80, 400, 95 }


Wrote a new temptable for the thermistor: https://www.geeetech.com/10pcs-100kohm-ntc-thermistors-for-heated-bed-p-632.html
Saved it under Preset 66-> Geeetech Extruder + Heated Bed (R25=100kOhm, beta25=3950, 4.7 kOhm pull-up)

maybe go back to default:

define TEMP_SENSOR_0 1


Geeetech Prusa I3 pro B MK8 cooling fan bracket with BL Touch / Proximity Sensor mount
by mrzed
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i need a new board

by omar555

i've been posting in this group for about one year trying to fix my printer that i regret buying now i found that the problem is from the board the one that i use is a sanguinololu board and it's broke i can't even print longer than an hour sometimes less and i'm sure the board is causing the problem so i need to buy a new one and there's alot out there is there any board that you can recommend

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one motor z-axis conversion

by andywarhol

i think about conversion to one motor for z-axis, cause the arm with extruder is disbalanced and then the sides are not sychnonized.
do somebody did this on this 3d printer ? thank you for informations
i found this: https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:2014187 but it is for tarantula.

Tevo Tarantula Single Motor Dual Z Axis
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