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My printer still wont use my BLTouch leveling

by Animu

So my BLTouch on my i3 plus runs the leveling sequence fine. both before a print, and if i do it manually through the settings. however, it appears that it doesnt apply those settings to the print. Am i missing something?

Here is my starting gcode

G21 ;metric values
G90 ;absolute positioning
M82 ;set extruder to absolute mode
M107 ;start with the fan off

G92 E0 ; zero extruder
G1 E-1.0 ; prevent oozing while leveling
G92 E0 ;re zero
G28 ;Home

G29 E ; auto bed level

G1 Z15.0 F200 ;move the platform down 15mm
G1 X0 F2800
G1 Y0 F2800
G92 E0 ;zero the extruded length

G1 Y0 F700 ; move out of print volume (negative values dnt work, hits endstop)
G1 Z0.2 F700
G1 X60 E9 F700 ; start purge line
G1 X100 E12.5 F700 ; continue purge line
G1 X120 E22.0 F700 ; continue
G1 X140 E30.0 F700 ; continue extrudes at various speeds to knock off bits
G1 X160 E34.0 F700 ; continue stuck to outside of nozzle from being hot while G29
G1 X180 F800 ;finish line
G1 X190 F1200 ; zoom to pull off bits stuck to nozzle
G1 Z10 F700 ; safty height

G92 E0 ;zero the extruded length again
G1 F{travel_speed}
M117 Printing...\

so i did some more testing, and it is doing mesh bed leveling. i confirmed it by raising one side of my bed all the way, and dropping the other side, so it fell by 15-20mm across the bed. and the leveling worked fine and it was able to print. however, regardless of the bed's angle, the lower left corner always prints too close to the bed, and the upper right is too high. so i dont know if it is calculating the mesh wrong or something?

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Y-plates here, get ya y-plates.

by gamekorp

Just checking in on the DIII users who are still using the 2nd gen stock y-axis carriage (stamped metal). If you find you can't print without a raft cause the nozzle won't touch the bed at lowest switch level, or if you constantly have to re-level your bed, you miiight want to upgrade that carriage. AFAIK there are not many options, but I have some custom plates in stock this might be the last batch.

Here is the link: https://www.ebay.com/itm/263827308397 . If you use the 'offer' button, you can save up to $5.00.

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Are TL Smoothers worth it for the i3 plus? do i need 24V ones?

by Animu

I was wondering if TL Smoothers are worth it for the Wanhao i3 plus? I have seen both good and bad reviews for them.
And if so, do i need special ones because it runs on 24V?

It seems that they are usually sold in packs of 3 (X, Y, E axis). But are they worth it to get for Z too?


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Monoprice Maker Select V2.1 from Melzi v3.5 to Ramps 1.4

by mkramm

So somehow my thermistor on the hot end shorted out and blew out the Melzi v3.5 board. Decided to take a chance and I ordered this kit from Amazon to convert to a Ramps 1.4 setup:
Kit: https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B019TNELNU/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o04_s01?ie=UTF8&psc=1
In preperation for recieving the kit I watched this series of videos: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=8iS52C1uOLU&list=PL8H7CRPXAYDFlLdIfTIeAmS14TTTw4Pz4
Extras: https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B06Y66LZ2L/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o04_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1

Now I ordered the last two, because if you watch the videos, you plainly see that the stock connectors on the Melzi board will not go onto the ramps board, specifically the Z axis stepper and the switches. So I ordered the extra parts so that I could just make my own "converters" and not have to worry about cutting and stripping and putting new connectors on the board, so if I want to go back to Melzi (no idea why I would think that now), but anyway I could go back.

So you get the kit, put on the jumpers, install the stepper drivers the right way, and then you are ready to start moving things over one at a time. Now what no one tells you is that you should flash the Arduino before you assemble it to the Ramps board. I say this because unless you can see the little programming lights flashing you have no idea if the flash took or not (suggestion not a rule). So, you get Arduino IDE, you download the latest firmware (for me I used Marlin, and I got it here: http://marlinfw.org/meta/download/ ). I downloaded version 1.1.8 of Marlin. Now the part that took me forever was editing the Marlin configuration.h file. There are tons of thing to edit, for my specific model (Monoprice Maker Select V2.1, I putting my configuration.h file attached).
Here are the important settings as I have figured out:
Steps per MM (X = 80, Y = 80, Z = 400, E = 96)
Max feed rates: X = 200, Y = 200, Z = 25, E = 25
Max Accel: X = 800, Y = 700, Z = 100, E = 1000
Acceleration: Printing Moves = 800, Retract = 800, Travel = 1000
Jerk: X= 8, Y=7, z=.4, e=2

Also in Arduino IDE go to Sketch=>include Library=>Manage Library
then search for U8glib, and install it
I think I had to restart Arduino IDE, and then go back to Sketch=>include Library, then select the U8glib.
This is required to get the graphical display to work.

So after all the edits are done then, compile, and then with the Arduino attached to the USB port of your computer select the right model under tools: both board and processor are the Mega 2560.

Then upload! Watch the Arduino board, it will start to flash like mad, and then when its done there will be a single yellow LED closer to the USB connector that is on, that means its flashed.

Now you are ready to connect it to the RAMPS 1.4 board make sure all the connections are good, display is connected plug in the power and it should be good to go.

There are tons of guides that show how and what to hook up to the RAMPS board, but information on what to do for the Configuration.h file is really confusing and limited. All I can say is that for me I could not leave the defaults in the configuration file, it made my printer do horrible things (belts slipping, and the motors were going crazy.

Hope this helps someone!

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PolyPearl Tower Torture Test

by Tinkercad54

I own a Monoprice maker select plus and the only upgrades i have done are: microswiss all metal hotend, glass build plate, and y-carrige plate. I print with 3D Solutech PLA and use Cura as my slicer. I decided to give this a try and it did out come out well. I used 205 for the nozzle and 50 for the bed. I used 0.1mm layers and 2mm retraction at 60mm/s speed. Any tips for making this better would be greatly appreciated.

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