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j-head hotend wanhao i3 conversion

by acer01

Hi need help converted my wanhao i3 and fitted a j-head hotend so its a bowden setup anyone cgot settings so can set cura up so i get a decent print thank you

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Wanhao Duplicator i3 - BIGTREETECH SKR2 board with TMC2209

by TheAlexClavijo

Firmware for Wanhao Duplicator i3 with BIGTREETECH SKR 2 board & TMC2209 Drivers.

Link: https://github.com/TheAlexClavijo/Wanhao-Duplicator-i3---BIGTREETECH-SKR2-with-TMC2209

Your hardware:

1- BIGTREETECH SKR 2 (Mosfet HY1904)
2- BIGTREETECH TMC2209 V1.2 Drivers
3- BIGTREETECH TFT35-E3.0 V3.0 (Optional but recommended)

Install firmware in your 3D Printer:

  • Copy the file "firmware.bin" in a SD card (no bigger than 16GB) formatted in FAT
  • Insert the SD card into the SD slot of the BIGTREETECH SKR 2 board
  • Reset or turn off/on the BIGTREETECH SKR 2 board
  • Check that the file "firmware.bin" on SD Card changed the extension to: "FIRMWARE.CUR".
  • Done!, The firmware is uploaded!.

HARDWARE BOARD SKR 2:

BIGTREETECH with TMC2209 in UART Mode (Jumpers) A very frequent question is how many jumpers and in what position they must be on the SKR 2 board to achieve UART Mode. For this, you have to do the following:

Following the next guide, you can see the jumpers position for UART mode: (https://github.com/bigtreetech/SKR-2/blob/master/Hardware/BIGTREETECH%20SKR%202%20user%20manual.pdf)

INTERESTING: For install the board inside the box in our Wanhao Duplicator i3, I used this STL. You can download STL here: (https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:4587387)

HARDWARE TFT35-E3 V3.0 (OPTIONAL, BUT RECOMMENDED):

In order to give my Wanhao Duplicator i3 a new and improved life, I opted to purchase the TFT35-E3 V3.0 display from BIGTREETECH. The display offers the option of combining the Marlin LCD mode and the TFT mode. I prefer the TFT mode as it offers a lot more configuration options to the 3D printer, as well as giving it a fresh look. I am attaching the updated firmware (I am using) with the TFT bootscreen that I designed for Wanhao i3 (powered by BIGTREETECH). I hope you like it!

Install firmware in your TFT35:

  • Copy all files and folder included in the folder TFT35 in a SD card: "BIGTREE_TFT35_V3.0_E3.27.x.bin", "language_es.ini" and folder "TFT35"(SD no bigger than 16GB and formatted in FAT)
  • Insert the SD card into the SD slot of the Bigtreetech TFT35-E3 V3.0
  • Reset or turn off/on the BIGTREETECH TFT35-E3 V3.0
  • Update will start

INTERESTING: If your Wanhao Duplicator i3 is from the first generations. I designed a frame where the TFT35 screen fits perfectly as it is slightly larger than the stock LCD. You can download STL here: (https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:4859228)

NOTE: You can download the latest TFT firmware here: (https://github.com/bigtreetech/BIGTREETECH-TouchScreenFirmware)

IMPORTANT: After configuring all the Marlin files and compiling the firmware, it is checked and functional on my Wanhao Duplicator i3 3D printer. This does not mean that it can work properly on your 3D printer. Please use it at your own risk.

Adapter to install BigTreeTech SKR V1.4 in Wanhao Duplicator i3 (Replacing Melzi board)
BIGTREETECH TFT35 - E3 V3 for Wanhao Duplicator i3
bigtreetech bigtreetech_skr bigtreetech_skr_2 BIGTREETECH_TFT35 bigtreetech_tft35_v3 btt_skr_2 Firmware marlin_firmware skr_2 TMC2209
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SOLVed - Hotend on full at startup Wanhao i3

by Estate

SOLVED

When I turn on my recently bought printer (used on marktplaats, the Netherlands) it shows a minus temp on the bed and the hotend starts heating as soon as power comes on.
I dismantled the print and saw that the previous owner had done some wire soldering to correct and repair a bunt out power connector whith lots of damage on the print.
I redone the soldering which was very poorly done and scratched off some paint to check if the printlines were not damaged too much, this looked rather okay and therefore I did a complete resoldering of the wires.
As I did not check the display well enough to discover the minus temp and just strated a testprint I don't really know if the problem I discribe was there or not.
I did however replace the complete hotend and switched to a 50Watt heater and a new thyristor because the printer never got the temperature right, it kept about 20 degrees below the set temperature and actually never came up to 190 or over 190 so printing was impossible.

So to be short.
Printer shows negative temp on bed at startup.
Hotend runs as soon as power comes on (heats up) and does not stop (fire hazzard)
Temp was way too low (about 20 degrees lower then set)

Replaced: complete hotend and extruder.

Resoldered wiring for repair and correction of ground problem on melzi board.

As a solution I find there is only one option and that's an external mosfet ? or is it really a matter of fried mainboard ?

Previous owner had done his repair soldering soooo bad that one of them came loose and shortened out on the negative lead of the hotbed.

Rewired it and now printer is fine, although I still feel the need to add an external Mosfet to avoid this problem repeating itself.

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Has anyone's display burned out?

by lime3D

Update 12-31-2021

Based on the information provided by Insatiable (see thread below) I decided to create an in-line adapter. I took a USB extension cable from the Dollar Store and cut way the outer insulation. The four exposed wires were pink, white, grey, and pale blue/green (definitely not the bold colors the WWW told me they would be.)

I guessed that the pink wire was actually the red 5v+ wire, and like a scene from a action/suspense movie, "cut the red wire, no cut the green wire, no cut the red wire", I cut the pink one.

After taping it up, I plugged it in line between the computer and the printer, and BINGO! I can now leave the USB cable in place, and the LCD screen only powers on when the printer power switch is on. Thanks Insatiable.

Original post:

I create all my CAD models and slicing on a dedicated old Windows XP computer. It works great. I also have two printers, so instead of using SD cards and constantly swapping and copying files, I have them both hooked up via USB, and print directly. Again, it works great.

But I found that even when the printers are switched OFF, the LCD displays are on if still connected to the computer with the USB. There is no data connection, but there is power.

My question is if there is any potential issue with leaving them hooked up, with the display on 24/7. Again, there is no power to the rest of the printer, so there are no fans or heaters running. I'm just worried about burning out the LCD.

And yes, I can obviously unplug the USB after each use, but it is obviously easier not to!

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Need help naming the connectors so I can buy replacements.

by zolan

Need help finding the right connectors.

I'm doing a large overhaul on my Wanhao Duplicator i3 v2. I'm changing quite a few things like adding a larger cable chain that is easier to get into and a E3Dv2 etc etc etc. Mostly using the frame and controller board and having fun with the rest.

Anyway, my problem is I'm having a hard time putting names to connectors. For instance, the connection for the hotend thermistor. It is kind of... Duponty.. But it has some plastic clips to hold it in place. All of my thermistors I'm going to use already have the opposite side of this connector. Unfortunately, the connector is so large that it won't fit backward through the original cable chain so I'll either have to snake it the other way and then all the way back or cut/solder it. Or, I could just make a new one.

The only problem is, I don't know exactly what it is called so it is hard to go to amazon and buy one and it is really hard to describe a connector to google and have it magically guess what it is. Me: "It is a square 2 pin black connector with prongs on the side blah blah blah." Google: "Did you mean Steve Urkel?"

If anyone knows the name of that connector (and any other connector they are willing to tell me like the stepper motor connectors or the connectors on the controller board side. that would be really freaking awesome.) I am likely going to eventually replace the main board with ramps but that is like #FutureMeProblems

Thank you for your time!

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