Folks, I'm looking for a good replacement for the heating barrel in the hotend. I bought the one from USA Wanhao, and would like to have a few extras on hand without paying the $25+ after shipping for each one. I've looked on Amazon and there are a ton of heaters, but I can't seem to find the Specs for the factory one on the plus. I took a shot on one, and ended up melting wires, thankfully no damage to my printer. Any suggestions are appreciated. Image attached
I got fed up with the scratchy standard linear Y-Axis bearings on my Malyan M150 (Wanhao i3 Clone), so swapped them for a set of IGUS Drylin RJ4JP-01-08 polymer bearings..
The swap wasn't as quick as I hoped, as the stock linear bearings are pressed into the mounting blocks.. Good thing I had a few spares from my T8+ CNC mods..!
Anyhoo, fitting was easy, only a dozen or so screws to take out.. New blocks fitted to the print carriage, rods inserted.. WOW... Smoother than a smooth thing in SmoothVille on Smoothie night!
Twenty minutes levelling the bed, and first test prints printed... So much quieter than stock, and a much nicer sound.. None of that annoying scratchy noise...
Was it worth it? YES
Would I do it even if I didn't have the bits laying about? YES
Would I recommend it to others? YES
Hey folks. The picture attached shows my problem. When I first turn on my printer and preheat pla or even abs, the extruder heats up as it should. Once I start a print, the temp drops down to around 205 degrees (shown in the picture). The temp then fluctuates around 205 as it normally would around the set temp (about 1-2 degrees).
I have tried to fix the problem by:
Checking the thermister
Checking connections (I opened the control box, disconnected the hotend connector from the melzi and then reconnected it and hot glued it down while applying pressure)
Checking wires to make sure they were all intact and good
I am continually having this problem. I am stumped because my heated bed has no issues at all. I can easily reach 100 degrees with it and am able to hold that temp for as long as I would want or need.
If I turn up the extruder temp to say 250, the temp will go up to almost 220 degrees and then slowly drop down to 205ish.
I feel as though the heater is getting enough power to heat the hot end since it has no problem during preheat.
Has anyone else had this problem or a similar issue? I would love to know how you fixed it so I can continue to print materials besides low temp PLAs.
I've been having some serious intermittent underextrusion, frequent clogs (literally every single print) and a general unreliability of all prints, mostly with the first layer or one of the first ~5 layers. Often times the printer will clog, either not extruding at the beginning of the print, or stop extruding/barely extrude at a random point in a print. I usually have to fix this by disassembling the fan-heatsink-motor assembly and then shoving a small metal rod down the extruder hole, sometimes I need to heat it up with a lighter as well. When the print fails at the start, it's usually because the filament clumps up at the nozzle, or doesn't come out at all.
I've noticed sometimes the filament comes out curled to one side and clings to the extruder whenever I extrude with the printer's controls or by pushing down on the filament. This might cause the issue where filament clumps up at the start of the print but it will still clog anyways.
I have the Duplicator i3 v2.1. I'm printing with 1.75 white PLA and have used the same roll for over a week. My slicer settings constitute of (in this specific print)
- 0.2mm layer height
- Infill density: 35
- Temperature: 195C
- Flow: 105% (raised after underextrusion started, but hasn't helped)
- Retraction distance: 5mm (Was at 6.5mm, heard lowering it might help, didn't)
*Print speed: 60mm/s
- Cooling: Yes
- Brim: 4mm
I've tried a huge amount of things:
- Leveling the bed, plus installing the reprap y carriage
- Changed filament
- Reduced retraction distance by 1 and 2mm
- Did a large amount of atomic cold pulls. Never caught anything in it though.
- Cleaned the top of the extruder with a 0.4mm bit.
- Heated the nozzle up to 240C then manually pushed a lot of filament through
- Cleaned extruder gear
- Pushed a hot metal rod (came with the printer) to unclog the printer.
- Changed print temperatures, all the way from 190C to 215C, with varying results.
Mods I have:
- Z brace
- Blue tape on bed
- Using only three bed leveling screws (yes, the bed is perfectly leveled, that is something I already ruled out)
- Reprap y carriage plate
- MOSFET mod
These things usually only help unclog it for a while, but eventually it will clog again. The printer used to work perfectly fine about a week ago, then the issues started happening. I have a small suspicion that the PTFE tube might be damaged, but I want to explore other options meanwhile (plus the printer is only about 2 weeks old...).
Howdy, I've currently got a raspberry pi camera mounted on my bed with a friction-fit mount, but it vibrates like it's trying to achieve escape velocity while printing, making my timelapses useless and my streaming nauseating. I used to have a mount that went on the screw in the corner and while it gave me a smooth video, it made it impossible to level my bed.
So, here's my question: What do you all recommend for a camera mount that won't vibrate like a lawnmower with a blade missing, and doesn't require me to mount it on the corner screw?
Barring those, is there a way to set up my Cura to tell the Gcode to pause the bed movement for, like 2 seconds before z-axis changes so I can just use the z-change image option for my timelapses and keep my current mount?