Trying to install BL on my D12/300 and have some issues.
Flashed Wanhao D12/300 FW
Installed BL in Z-
When leveling it works good the first two times, then the third time the BL does not extend and the hot end smashes the build plate with force and I need to cut the power to not brake anything.
I can't understand what I did wrong...
Ok the problem is, I can push the filament through by hand and it all pop out as it should. But it won't feed through, its like it just doesn't get pulled in via the teeth. Has anyone head of this before? Could a lead have worked loose? Where should I start looking. Yes I'm a noob. I do hope it can be resolved, to date I have installed a swiss hot end, new Nema motor and PLA. Can I be pointed in and direction.... I have tried it with the bed levelled, also the bed really low so I can see if any is coming out....and it just doesn't. When I set it off to print, it makes all the noises that it did before...... some PLA dribbles out.... then as it drops down to start printing..... it stops extruding.....any help would be welcomed thanks in advance :)
A couple of years ago, I experienced a failure well-known to the community - a component on the board melted and started smoking, and afterwards, the bed would no longer heat up. I removed the component and added a MOSFET, which I have heard corrects the problem. (I re-discovered one of the threads that pointed me to this solution here: https://www.thingiverse.com/groups/i3/forums/general/topic:27417) This week, I noticed the bed was not heating again. I opened everything up and saw that part of the MOSFET has melted, just like the original component did.
Has anyone else experienced this? Does the failure of the MOSFET indicate that I wired it incorrectly? I don't have much electrical experience, but with sufficient instruction, I can manage things such as adding the MOSFET. I am not experienced enough to figure out what went wrong, though, and I'm hoping someone here can help me. I think I could probably just replace the MOSFET with a new one, but I'd prefer to find the root of the problem so I can avoid running into this again.
Firmware for Wanhao Duplicator i3 with BIGTREETECH SKR 2 board & TMC2209 Drivers.
1- BIGTREETECH SKR 2 (Mosfet HY1904)
2- BIGTREETECH TMC2209 V1.2 Drivers
3- BIGTREETECH TFT35-E3.0 V3.0 (Optional but recommended)
Install firmware in your 3D Printer:
- Copy the file "firmware.bin" in a SD card (no bigger than 16GB) formatted in FAT
- Insert the SD card into the SD slot of the BIGTREETECH SKR 2 board
- Reset or turn off/on the BIGTREETECH SKR 2 board
- Check that the file "firmware.bin" on SD Card changed the extension to: "FIRMWARE.CUR".
- Done!, The firmware is uploaded!.
HARDWARE BOARD SKR 2:
BIGTREETECH with TMC2209 in UART Mode (Jumpers) A very frequent question is how many jumpers and in what position they must be on the SKR 2 board to achieve UART Mode. For this, you have to do the following:
- 2 jumpers in TMC slot for X stepper (see "https://github.com/TheAlexClavijo/Wanhao-Duplicator-i3---BIGTREETECH-SKR2-with-TMC2209/blob/main/Wanhao%20Duplicator%20i3%20-%20SKR%202%20wiring.jpg") if you will use SENSORLESS
- 2 jumpers in TMC slot for Y stepper (see "https://github.com/TheAlexClavijo/Wanhao-Duplicator-i3---BIGTREETECH-SKR2-with-TMC2209/blob/main/Wanhao%20Duplicator%20i3%20-%20SKR%202%20wiring.jpg") if you will use SENSORLESS
- 1 jumper in TMC slot for Z (ZA & ZB) stepper (see "https://github.com/TheAlexClavijo/Wanhao-Duplicator-i3---BIGTREETECH-SKR2-with-TMC2209/blob/main/Wanhao%20Duplicator%20i3%20-%20SKR%202%20wiring.jpg")
- 1 jumper in TMC slot for E0 stepper (see "https://github.com/TheAlexClavijo/Wanhao-Duplicator-i3---BIGTREETECH-SKR2-with-TMC2209/blob/main/Wanhao%20Duplicator%20i3%20-%20SKR%202%20wiring.jpg")
Following the next guide, you can see the jumpers position for UART mode: (https://github.com/bigtreetech/SKR-2/blob/master/Hardware/BIGTREETECH%20SKR%202%20user%20manual.pdf)
INTERESTING: For install the board inside the box in our Wanhao Duplicator i3, I used this STL. You can download STL here: (https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:4587387)
HARDWARE TFT35-E3 V3.0 (OPTIONAL, BUT RECOMMENDED):
In order to give my Wanhao Duplicator i3 a new and improved life, I opted to purchase the TFT35-E3 V3.0 display from BIGTREETECH. The display offers the option of combining the Marlin LCD mode and the TFT mode. I prefer the TFT mode as it offers a lot more configuration options to the 3D printer, as well as giving it a fresh look. I am attaching the updated firmware (I am using) with the TFT bootscreen that I designed for Wanhao i3 (powered by BIGTREETECH). I hope you like it!
Install firmware in your TFT35:
- Copy all files and folder included in the folder TFT35 in a SD card: "BIGTREE_TFT35_V3.0_E3.27.x.bin", "language_es.ini" and folder "TFT35"(SD no bigger than 16GB and formatted in FAT)
- Insert the SD card into the SD slot of the Bigtreetech TFT35-E3 V3.0
- Reset or turn off/on the BIGTREETECH TFT35-E3 V3.0
- Update will start
INTERESTING: If your Wanhao Duplicator i3 is from the first generations. I designed a frame where the TFT35 screen fits perfectly as it is slightly larger than the stock LCD. You can download STL here: (https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:4859228)
NOTE: You can download the latest TFT firmware here: (https://github.com/bigtreetech/BIGTREETECH-TouchScreenFirmware)
IMPORTANT: After configuring all the Marlin files and compiling the firmware, it is checked and functional on my Wanhao Duplicator i3 3D printer. This does not mean that it can work properly on your 3D printer. Please use it at your own risk.
I've ordered a laser engraver head (banggood.com) - being a typical bloke I've gone for the 5W version...
Anyway, mounting it where the fan normally sits shouldn't be a problem and as far as I can tell it comes with a PSU that should power the unit independently from the printer. However, in order to engrave greyscale photos onto things, I will need to control the output with PWM - most people just unplug the fan and plug the laser PWM input in.
However, on the Duplicator Plus, from what I can tell, it's a 24V fan and the laser needs a 12V input. Would a simple voltage divider work or should I use a buck converter or something else? Need for it to be able to handle the rapid pulsing (or am I worrying about nothing because in terms of electronics the PWM frequency is not that high?)