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Monoprice Maker Select V2.1 from Melzi v3.5 to Ramps 1.4

by mkramm

So somehow my thermistor on the hot end shorted out and blew out the Melzi v3.5 board. Decided to take a chance and I ordered this kit from Amazon to convert to a Ramps 1.4 setup:
Kit: https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B019TNELNU/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o04_s01?ie=UTF8&psc=1
In preperation for recieving the kit I watched this series of videos: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=8iS52C1uOLU&list=PL8H7CRPXAYDFlLdIfTIeAmS14TTTw4Pz4
Extras: https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B06Y66LZ2L/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o04_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B06Y65XHN9/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o04_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1

Now I ordered the last two, because if you watch the videos, you plainly see that the stock connectors on the Melzi board will not go onto the ramps board, specifically the Z axis stepper and the switches. So I ordered the extra parts so that I could just make my own "converters" and not have to worry about cutting and stripping and putting new connectors on the board, so if I want to go back to Melzi (no idea why I would think that now), but anyway I could go back.

So you get the kit, put on the jumpers, install the stepper drivers the right way, and then you are ready to start moving things over one at a time. Now what no one tells you is that you should flash the Arduino before you assemble it to the Ramps board. I say this because unless you can see the little programming lights flashing you have no idea if the flash took or not (suggestion not a rule). So, you get Arduino IDE, you download the latest firmware (for me I used Marlin, and I got it here: http://marlinfw.org/meta/download/ ). I downloaded version 1.1.8 of Marlin. Now the part that took me forever was editing the Marlin configuration.h file. There are tons of thing to edit, for my specific model (Monoprice Maker Select V2.1, I putting my configuration.h file attached).
Here are the important settings as I have figured out:
Steps per MM (X = 80, Y = 80, Z = 400, E = 96)
Max feed rates: X = 200, Y = 200, Z = 25, E = 25
Max Accel: X = 800, Y = 700, Z = 100, E = 1000
Acceleration: Printing Moves = 800, Retract = 800, Travel = 1000
Jerk: X= 8, Y=7, z=.4, e=2

Also in Arduino IDE go to Sketch=>include Library=>Manage Library
then search for U8glib, and install it
I think I had to restart Arduino IDE, and then go back to Sketch=>include Library, then select the U8glib.
This is required to get the graphical display to work.

So after all the edits are done then, compile, and then with the Arduino attached to the USB port of your computer select the right model under tools: both board and processor are the Mega 2560.

Then upload! Watch the Arduino board, it will start to flash like mad, and then when its done there will be a single yellow LED closer to the USB connector that is on, that means its flashed.

Now you are ready to connect it to the RAMPS 1.4 board make sure all the connections are good, display is connected plug in the power and it should be good to go.

There are tons of guides that show how and what to hook up to the RAMPS board, but information on what to do for the Configuration.h file is really confusing and limited. All I can say is that for me I could not leave the defaults in the configuration file, it made my printer do horrible things (belts slipping, and the motors were going crazy.

Hope this helps someone!

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PolyPearl Tower Torture Test

by Tinkercad54

I own a Monoprice maker select plus and the only upgrades i have done are: microswiss all metal hotend, glass build plate, and y-carrige plate. I print with 3D Solutech PLA and use Cura as my slicer. I decided to give this a try and it did out come out well. I used 205 for the nozzle and 50 for the bed. I used 0.1mm layers and 2mm retraction at 60mm/s speed. Any tips for making this better would be greatly appreciated.

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i dont think my printer is using my BLTouch leveling

by Animu

So i installed a BLTuch on my i3 plus. it does its thing and touches 9 points and the usual, but i dont think it is actually using the mesh bed leveling during the print. One corner is too close and the other is way too high.

am i missing something?

thanks

here is me starting G-code

G21 ;metric values
G90 ;absolute positioning
M82 ;set extruder to absolute mode
M107 ;start with the fan off
G28 ;Home
G29 E ; auto bed level
G28 X0 Y0 ;move X/Y to min endstops
G28 Z0 ;move Z to min endstops
G1 Z15.0 F{travel_speed} ;move the platform down 15mm
G1 X0 Y0 F{travel_speed}
G92 E0 ;zero the extruded length
G1 F140 E30 ;extrude 3mm of feed stock
G1 X20 Y0 F140 E30
G92 E0 ;zero the extruded length again
G1 F{travel_speed}
M117 Printing...

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are the Y axis bearings in the i3 plus LM8UU?

by Animu

My Y axis bearings sound and feel like they are full of gravel despite being soaked in sewing machine oil.

i have 3 extra drylin LM8UU bearings from doing my X axis. Do these work for the Y axis, or does it take different bearings?

Thanks

Edit: i am revisiting this and it appears that there is some confusion and i messed up the X and Y axis. i was thinking of it like calc, where X is towards you, and Y is to the right and Z is up. My printer has it labeled that the bed is the Y axis, and the gantry is X. I am talking about replacing the bearings in the gantry. i have already replaced the in the bed.

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bed

by oddball13

How to avoid kind of reaction?
I always have a corner of my impression that comes off when printing.

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