General

Ok the problem is, I can push the filament through by hand and it all pop out as it should. But it won't feed through, its like it just doesn't get pulled in via the teeth. Has anyone head of this before? Could a lead have worked loose? Where should I start looking. Yes I'm a noob. I do hope it can be resolved, to date I have installed a swiss hot end, new Nema motor and PLA. Can I be pointed in and direction.... I have tried it with the bed levelled, also the bed really low so I can see if any is coming out....and it just doesn't. When I set it off to print, it makes all the noises that it did before...... some PLA dribbles out.... then as it drops down to start printing..... it stops extruding.....any help would be welcomed thanks in advance :)

A couple of years ago, I experienced a failure well-known to the community - a component on the board melted and started smoking, and afterwards, the bed would no longer heat up. I removed the component and added a MOSFET, which I have heard corrects the problem. (I re-discovered one of the threads that pointed me to this solution here: https://www.thingiverse.com/groups/i3/forums/general/topic:27417) This week, I noticed the bed was not heating again. I opened everything up and saw that part of the MOSFET has melted, just like the original component did.

Has anyone else experienced this? Does the failure of the MOSFET indicate that I wired it incorrectly? I don't have much electrical experience, but with sufficient instruction, I can manage things such as adding the MOSFET. I am not experienced enough to figure out what went wrong, though, and I'm hoping someone here can help me. I think I could probably just replace the MOSFET with a new one, but I'd prefer to find the root of the problem so I can avoid running into this again.

My wife gave me a roll of ABS for Christmas and I built an enclosure yesterday as my unheated workshop is really cold. With the nozzle (hardened all-metal MicroSwiss) at 245 and bed at 110 (which should have kept the surroundings fairly warm too) I left it going overnight with some models that included a Benchy. Was quite impressed with the quality although there was a strange black blob towards the top - don't know whether this is due to my filament or just some left over dirt working through the nozzle (which I've had endless problems with).

Whole thing feels pretty sturdy and the other parts I printed were reasonable but not perfect.

Printer is a Wanhao Duplicator i3 Plus with upgraded Y carriage

Here is my full Configuration.h file for anyone else who wants to convert from Melzi to RAMPS1.4 with a Wanhao Duplicator I3 or Maker Select i3. If you are a veteran i3 tweaker, please share with us how we can further improve our configs. If you have questions ask away.

• You can use three tick marks (the key shared with the tilda on most US keyboards) around your code block to show code without markdown interference. Put three ticks on the sentence above code snippet and three ticks on the sentence below code snippet.
• I used the following kit for my upgrade: https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B01J9ZVPZU/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o08_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1
• I have //JJG in the configuration.h file lines that I altered from the default download. If you do post your configuration.h file help us out by adding your initials or thingiverse handle where you altered the configuration.h file to suit your needs.

#ifndef CONFIGURATION_H
#define CONFIGURATION_H

// This configurtion file contains the basic settings.
// Advanced settings can be found in Configuration_adv.h
// BASIC SETTINGS: select your board type, temperature sensor type, axis scaling, and endstop configuration

//User specified version info of this build to display in [Pronterface, etc] terminal window during startup.
//Implementation of an idea by Prof Braino to inform user that any changes made
//to this build by the user have been successfully uploaded into firmware.
#define STRING_VERSION_CONFIG_H __DATE__ " " __TIME__ // build date and time
#define STRING_CONFIG_H_AUTHOR "(none, default config)" //Who made the changes.

// SERIAL_PORT selects which serial port should be used for communication with the host.
// This allows the connection of wireless adapters (for instance) to non-default port pins.
// Serial port 0 is still used by the Arduino bootloader regardless of this setting.
#define SERIAL_PORT 0

// This determines the communication speed of the printer
//#define BAUDRATE 250000
#define BAUDRATE 115200

//// The following define selects which electronics board you have. Please choose the one that matches your setup
// 10 = Gen7 custom (Alfons3 Version) "https://github.com/Alfons3/Generation_7_Electronics"
// 11 = Gen7 v1.1, v1.2 = 11
// 12 = Gen7 v1.3
// 13 = Gen7 v1.4
// 3  = MEGA/RAMPS up to 1.2 = 3
// 33 = RAMPS 1.3 / 1.4 (Power outputs: Extruder, Bed, Fan)
// 34 = RAMPS 1.3 / 1.4 (Power outputs: Extruder0, Extruder1, Bed)
// 4  = Duemilanove w/ ATMega328P pin assignment
// 5  = Gen6
// 51 = Gen6 deluxe
// 6  = Sanguinololu < 1.2
// 62 = Sanguinololu 1.2 and above
// 63 = Melzi
// 64 = STB V1.1
// 7  = Ultimaker
// 71 = Ultimaker (Older electronics. Pre 1.5.4. This is rare)
// 8  = Teensylu
// 80 = Rumba
// 81 = Printrboard (AT90USB1286)
// 82 = Brainwave (AT90USB646)
// 9  = Gen3+
// 70 = Megatronics
// 701= Megatronics v2.0
// 702= Minitronics v1.0
// 90 = Alpha OMCA board
// 91 = Final OMCA board
// 301 = Rambo

#ifndef MOTHERBOARD
#define MOTHERBOARD 33
#endif

// This defines the number of extruders
#define EXTRUDERS 1

//// The following define selects which power supply you have. Please choose the one that matches your setup
// 1 = ATX
// 2 = X-Box 360 203Watts (the blue wire connected to PS_ON and the red wire to VCC)

#define POWER_SUPPLY 1

//===========================================================================
//=============================Thermal Settings  ============================
//===========================================================================
//
//--NORMAL IS 4.7kohm PULLUP!-- 1kohm pullup can be used on hotend sensor, using correct resistor and table
//
//// Temperature sensor settings:
// -2 is thermocouple with MAX6675 (only for sensor 0)
// -1 is thermocouple with AD595
// 0 is not used
// 1 is 100k thermistor - best choice for EPCOS 100k (4.7k pullup)
// 2 is 200k thermistor - ATC Semitec 204GT-2 (4.7k pullup)
// 3 is mendel-parts thermistor (4.7k pullup)
// 4 is 10k thermistor !! do not use it for a hotend. It gives bad resolution at high temp. !!
// 5 is 100K thermistor - ATC Semitec 104GT-2 (Used in ParCan) (4.7k pullup)
// 6 is 100k EPCOS - Not as accurate as table 1 (created using a fluke thermocouple) (4.7k pullup)
// 7 is 100k Honeywell thermistor 135-104LAG-J01 (4.7k pullup)
// 8 is 100k 0603 SMD Vishay NTCS0603E3104FXT (4.7k pullup)
// 9 is 100k GE Sensing AL03006-58.2K-97-G1 (4.7k pullup)
// 10 is 100k RS thermistor 198-961 (4.7k pullup)
//
//    1k ohm pullup tables - This is not normal, you would have to have changed out your 4.7k for 1k
//                          (but gives greater accuracy and more stable PID)
// 51 is 100k thermistor - EPCOS (1k pullup)
// 52 is 200k thermistor - ATC Semitec 204GT-2 (1k pullup)
// 55 is 100k thermistor - ATC Semitec 104GT-2 (Used in ParCan) (1k pullup)

#define TEMP_SENSOR_0 1
#define TEMP_SENSOR_1 0
#define TEMP_SENSOR_2 0
#define TEMP_SENSOR_BED 1

// Actual temperature must be close to target for this long before M109 returns success
#define TEMP_RESIDENCY_TIME 10  // (seconds)
#define TEMP_HYSTERESIS 3       // (degC) range of +/- temperatures considered "close" to the target one
#define TEMP_WINDOW     1       // (degC) Window around target to start the recidency timer x degC early.

// The minimal temperature defines the temperature below which the heater will not be enabled It is used
// to check that the wiring to the thermistor is not broken.
// Otherwise this would lead to the heater being powered on all the time.
#define HEATER_0_MINTEMP 5
#define HEATER_1_MINTEMP 5
#define HEATER_2_MINTEMP 5
#define BED_MINTEMP 5

// When temperature exceeds max temp, your heater will be switched off.
// This feature exists to protect your hotend from overheating accidentally, but *NOT* from thermistor short/failure!
// You should use MINTEMP for thermistor short/failure protection.
#define HEATER_0_MAXTEMP 275
#define HEATER_1_MAXTEMP 275
#define HEATER_2_MAXTEMP 275
#define BED_MAXTEMP 150

// If your bed has low resistance e.g. .6 ohm and throws the fuse you can duty cycle it to reduce the
// average current. The value should be an integer and the heat bed will be turned on for 1 interval of
// HEATER_BED_DUTY_CYCLE_DIVIDER intervals.
//#define HEATER_BED_DUTY_CYCLE_DIVIDER 4

// PID settings:
// Comment the following line to disable PID and enable bang-bang.
#define PIDTEMP
#define BANG_MAX 255 // limits current to nozzle while in bang-bang mode; 256=full current
#define PID_MAX 255 // limits current to nozzle while PID is active (see PID_FUNCTIONAL_RANGE below); 256=full current
#ifdef PIDTEMP
  //#define PID_DEBUG // Sends debug data to the serial port.
  //#define PID_OPENLOOP 1 // Puts PID in open loop. M104/M140 sets the output power from 0 to PID_MAX
  #define PID_FUNCTIONAL_RANGE 10 // If the temperature difference between the target temperature and the actual temperature
                                  // is more then PID_FUNCTIONAL_RANGE then the PID will be shut off and the heater will be set to min/max.
  #define PID_INTEGRAL_DRIVE_MAX 255  //limit for the integral term
  #define K1 0.95 //smoothing factor withing the PID
  #define PID_dT ((16.0 * 8.0)/(F_CPU / 64.0 / 256.0)) //sampling period of the temperature routine

// If you are using a preconfigured hotend then you can use one of the value sets by uncommenting it
// Ultimaker
    #define  DEFAULT_Kp 22.2
    #define  DEFAULT_Ki 1.08
    #define  DEFAULT_Kd 114

// Makergear
//    #define  DEFAULT_Kp 7.0
//    #define  DEFAULT_Ki 0.1
//    #define  DEFAULT_Kd 12

// Mendel Parts V9 on 12V
//    #define  DEFAULT_Kp 63.0
//    #define  DEFAULT_Ki 2.25
//    #define  DEFAULT_Kd 440
#endif // PIDTEMP

// Bed Temperature Control
// Select PID or bang-bang with PIDTEMPBED.  If bang-bang, BED_LIMIT_SWITCHING will enable hysteresis
//
// uncomment this to enable PID on the bed.   It uses the same frequency PWM as the extruder.
// If your PID_dT above is the default, and correct for your hardware/configuration, that means 7.689Hz,
// which is fine for driving a square wave into a resistive load and does not significantly impact you FET heating.
// This also works fine on a Fotek SSR-10DA Solid State Relay into a 250W heater.
// If your configuration is significantly different than this and you don't understand the issues involved, you proabaly
// shouldn't use bed PID until someone else verifies your hardware works.
// If this is enabled, find your own PID constants below.
//#define PIDTEMPBED
//
//#define BED_LIMIT_SWITCHING

// This sets the max power delived to the bed, and replaces the HEATER_BED_DUTY_CYCLE_DIVIDER option.
// all forms of bed control obey this (PID, bang-bang, bang-bang with hysteresis)
// setting this to anything other than 256 enables a form of PWM to the bed just like HEATER_BED_DUTY_CYCLE_DIVIDER did,
// so you shouldn't use it unless you are OK with PWM on your bed.  (see the comment on enabling PIDTEMPBED)
#define MAX_BED_POWER 256 // limits duty cycle to bed; 256=full current

#ifdef PIDTEMPBED
//120v 250W silicone heater into 4mm borosilicate (MendelMax 1.5+)
//from FOPDT model - kp=.39 Tp=405 Tdead=66, Tc set to 79.2, argressive factor of .15 (vs .1, 1, 10)
    #define  DEFAULT_bedKp 10.00
    #define  DEFAULT_bedKi .023
    #define  DEFAULT_bedKd 305.4

//120v 250W silicone heater into 4mm borosilicate (MendelMax 1.5+)
//from pidautotune
//    #define  DEFAULT_bedKp 97.1
//    #define  DEFAULT_bedKi 1.41
//    #define  DEFAULT_bedKd 1675.16

// FIND YOUR OWN: "M303 E-1 C8 S90" to run autotune on the bed at 90 degreesC for 8 cycles.
#endif // PIDTEMPBED

//this prevents dangerous Extruder moves, i.e. if the temperature is under the limit
//can be software-disabled for whatever purposes by
#define PREVENT_DANGEROUS_EXTRUDE
//if PREVENT_DANGEROUS_EXTRUDE is on, you can still disable (uncomment) very long bits of extrusion separately.
#define PREVENT_LENGTHY_EXTRUDE

#define EXTRUDE_MINTEMP 170
#define EXTRUDE_MAXLENGTH (X_MAX_LENGTH+Y_MAX_LENGTH) //prevent extrusion of very large distances.

//===========================================================================
//=============================Mechanical Settings===========================
//===========================================================================

// Uncomment the following line to enable CoreXY kinematics
// #define COREXY

// corse Endstop Settings
#define ENDSTOPPULLUPS // Comment this out (using // at the start of the line) to disable the endstop pullup resistors

#ifndef ENDSTOPPULLUPS
  // fine Enstop settings: Individual Pullups. will be ignord if ENDSTOPPULLUPS is defined
  #define ENDSTOPPULLUP_XMAX
  #define ENDSTOPPULLUP_YMAX
  #define ENDSTOPPULLUP_ZMAX
  #define ENDSTOPPULLUP_XMIN
  #define ENDSTOPPULLUP_YMIN
  //#define ENDSTOPPULLUP_ZMIN
#endif

#ifdef ENDSTOPPULLUPS
  #define ENDSTOPPULLUP_XMAX
  #define ENDSTOPPULLUP_YMAX
  #define ENDSTOPPULLUP_ZMAX
  #define ENDSTOPPULLUP_XMIN
  #define ENDSTOPPULLUP_YMIN
  #define ENDSTOPPULLUP_ZMIN
#endif

// The pullups are needed if you directly connect a mechanical endswitch between the signal and ground pins.
const bool X_ENDSTOPS_INVERTING = true; // set to true to invert the logic of the endstops.
const bool Y_ENDSTOPS_INVERTING = true; // set to true to invert the logic of the endstops.
const bool Z_ENDSTOPS_INVERTING = true; // set to true to invert the logic of the endstops.
//#define DISABLE_MAX_ENDSTOPS

// For Inverting Stepper Enable Pins (Active Low) use 0, Non Inverting (Active High) use 1
#define X_ENABLE_ON 0
#define Y_ENABLE_ON 0
#define Z_ENABLE_ON 0
#define E_ENABLE_ON 0 // For all extruders

// Disables axis when it's not being used.
#define DISABLE_X false
#define DISABLE_Y false
#define DISABLE_Z false
#define DISABLE_E false // For all extruders

#define INVERT_X_DIR false    // for Mendel set to false, for Orca set to true

//JJG #define INVERT_Y_DIR true    // for Mendel set to true, for Orca set to false
#define INVERT_Y_DIR false    //JJG // for Mendel set to true, for Orca set to false
//JJG #define INVERT_Z_DIR false   // for Mendel set to false, for Orca set to true
#define INVERT_Z_DIR true //JJG   // for Mendel set to false, for Orca set to true

#define INVERT_E0_DIR false   // for direct drive extruder v9 set to true, for geared extruder set to false
#define INVERT_E1_DIR false    // for direct drive extruder v9 set to true, for geared extruder set to false
#define INVERT_E2_DIR false   // for direct drive extruder v9 set to true, for geared extruder set to false

// ENDSTOP SETTINGS:
// Sets direction of endstops when homing; 1=MAX, -1=MIN
#define X_HOME_DIR -1
#define Y_HOME_DIR -1
#define Z_HOME_DIR -1

#define min_software_endstops true //If true, axis won't move to coordinates less than HOME_POS.
#define max_software_endstops true  //If true, axis won't move to coordinates greater than the defined lengths below.
// Travel limits after homing
//JJG #define X_MAX_POS 180
//#define X_MIN_POS 0
//#define Y_MAX_POS 205
//#define Y_MIN_POS 0
//#define Z_MAX_POS 185
//#define Z_MIN_POS 0

#define X_MAX_POS 200 //JJG
#define X_MIN_POS 0
#define Y_MAX_POS 200  //JJG
#define Y_MIN_POS 0
#define Z_MAX_POS 175  //JJG
#define Z_MIN_POS 0

#define X_MAX_LENGTH (X_MAX_POS - X_MIN_POS)
#define Y_MAX_LENGTH (Y_MAX_POS - Y_MIN_POS)
#define Z_MAX_LENGTH (Z_MAX_POS - Z_MIN_POS)

// The position of the homing switches
//#define MANUAL_HOME_POSITIONS  // If defined, MANUAL_*_HOME_POS below will be used
//#define BED_CENTER_AT_0_0  // If defined, the center of the bed is at (X=0, Y=0)

//Manual homing switch locations:
#define MANUAL_X_HOME_POS 0
#define MANUAL_Y_HOME_POS 0
#define MANUAL_Z_HOME_POS 0

//// MOVEMENT SETTINGS
#define NUM_AXIS 4 // The axis order in all axis related arrays is X, Y, Z, E
#define HOMING_FEEDRATE {50*60, 50*60, 4*60, 0}  // set the homing speeds (mm/min)

// default settings

//JJG #define DEFAULT_AXIS_STEPS_PER_UNIT   {80,80,1600,80.22}  // default steps per unit for ultimaker
#define DEFAULT_AXIS_STEPS_PER_UNIT   {80,80,398,96}  //JJG // default steps per unit for ultimaker
#define DEFAULT_MAX_FEEDRATE          {500, 500, 5, 25}    // (mm/sec)
#define DEFAULT_MAX_ACCELERATION      {9000,9000,100,10000}    // X, Y, Z, E maximum start speed for accelerated moves. E default values are good for skeinforge 40+, for older versions raise them a lot.

#define DEFAULT_ACCELERATION          3000    // X, Y, Z and E max acceleration in mm/s^2 for printing moves
#define DEFAULT_RETRACT_ACCELERATION  3000   // X, Y, Z and E max acceleration in mm/s^2 for r retracts

// Offset of the extruders (uncomment if using more than one and relying on firmware to position when changing).
// The offset has to be X=0, Y=0 for the extruder 0 hotend (default extruder).
// For the other hotends it is their distance from the extruder 0 hotend.
// #define EXTRUDER_OFFSET_X {0.0, 20.00} // (in mm) for each extruder, offset of the hotend on the X axis
// #define EXTRUDER_OFFSET_Y {0.0, 5.00}  // (in mm) for each extruder, offset of the hotend on the Y axis

// The speed change that does not require acceleration (i.e. the software might assume it can be done instanteneously)
#define DEFAULT_XYJERK                20.0    // (mm/sec)
#define DEFAULT_ZJERK                 0.4     // (mm/sec)
#define DEFAULT_EJERK                 5.0    // (mm/sec)

//===========================================================================
//=============================Additional Features===========================
//===========================================================================

// EEPROM
// the microcontroller can store settings in the EEPROM, e.g. max velocity...
// M500 - stores paramters in EEPROM
// M501 - reads parameters from EEPROM (if you need reset them after you changed them temporarily).
// M502 - reverts to the default "factory settings".  You still need to store them in EEPROM afterwards if you want to.
//define this to enable eeprom support
//#define EEPROM_SETTINGS
//to disable EEPROM Serial responses and decrease program space by ~1700 byte: comment this out:
// please keep turned on if you can.
//#define EEPROM_CHITCHAT

// Preheat Constants
#define PLA_PREHEAT_HOTEND_TEMP 210 
#define PLA_PREHEAT_HPB_TEMP 50
#define PLA_PREHEAT_FAN_SPEED 255   // Insert Value between 0 and 255

#define ABS_PREHEAT_HOTEND_TEMP 230
#define ABS_PREHEAT_HPB_TEMP 70
#define ABS_PREHEAT_FAN_SPEED 255   // Insert Value between 0 and 255

//LCD and SD support
//#define ULTRA_LCD  //general lcd support, also 16x2
//#define DOGLCD  // Support for SPI LCD 128x64 (Controller ST7565R graphic Display Family)
//#define SDSUPPORT // Enable SD Card Support in Hardware Console
//#define SDSLOW // Use slower SD transfer mode (not normally needed - uncomment if you're getting volume init error)

//#define ULTIMAKERCONTROLLER //as available from the ultimaker online store.
//#define ULTIPANEL  //the ultipanel as on thingiverse

// The RepRapDiscount Smart Controller (white PCB)
// http://reprap.org/wiki/RepRapDiscount_Smart_Controller
//#define REPRAP_DISCOUNT_SMART_CONTROLLER

// The GADGETS3D G3D LCD/SD Controller (blue PCB)
// http://reprap.org/wiki/RAMPS_1.3/1.4_GADGETS3D_Shield_with_Panel
//#define G3D_PANEL

// The RepRapDiscount FULL GRAPHIC Smart Controller (quadratic white PCB)
// http://reprap.org/wiki/RepRapDiscount_Full_Graphic_Smart_Controller
//
// ==> REMEMBER TO INSTALL U8glib to your ARDUINO library folder: http://code.google.com/p/u8glib/wiki/u8glib
#define REPRAP_DISCOUNT_FULL_GRAPHIC_SMART_CONTROLLER

// The RepRapWorld REPRAPWORLD_KEYPAD v1.1
// http://reprapworld.com/?products_details&products_id=202&cPath=1591_1626
//#define REPRAPWORLD_KEYPAD
//#define REPRAPWORLD_KEYPAD_MOVE_STEP 10.0 // how much should be moved when a key is pressed, eg 10.0 means 10mm per click

//automatic expansion
#if defined (REPRAP_DISCOUNT_FULL_GRAPHIC_SMART_CONTROLLER)
 #define DOGLCD
 #define U8GLIB_ST7920
 #define REPRAP_DISCOUNT_SMART_CONTROLLER
#endif

#if defined(ULTIMAKERCONTROLLER) || defined(REPRAP_DISCOUNT_SMART_CONTROLLER) || defined(G3D_PANEL)
 #define ULTIPANEL
 #define NEWPANEL
#endif

#if defined(REPRAPWORLD_KEYPAD)
  #define NEWPANEL
  #define ULTIPANEL
#endif

//I2C PANELS

//#define LCD_I2C_SAINSMART_YWROBOT
#ifdef LCD_I2C_SAINSMART_YWROBOT
  // This uses the LiquidCrystal_I2C library ( https://bitbucket.org/fmalpartida/new-liquidcrystal/wiki/Home )
  // Make sure it is placed in the Arduino libraries directory.
  #define LCD_I2C_TYPE_PCF8575
  #define LCD_I2C_ADDRESS 0x27   // I2C Address of the port expander
  #define NEWPANEL
  #define ULTIPANEL 
#endif

// PANELOLU2 LCD with status LEDs, separate encoder and click inputs
//#define LCD_I2C_PANELOLU2
#ifdef LCD_I2C_PANELOLU2
  // This uses the LiquidTWI2 library v1.2.3 or later ( https://github.com/lincomatic/LiquidTWI2 )
  // Make sure the LiquidTWI2 directory is placed in the Arduino or Sketchbook libraries subdirectory.
  // (v1.2.3 no longer requires you to define PANELOLU in the LiquidTWI2.h library header file)
  // Note: The PANELOLU2 encoder click input can either be directly connected to a pin 
  //       (if BTN_ENC defined to != -1) or read through I2C (when BTN_ENC == -1). 
  #define LCD_I2C_TYPE_MCP23017
  #define LCD_I2C_ADDRESS 0x20 // I2C Address of the port expander
  #define LCD_USE_I2C_BUZZER //comment out to disable buzzer on LCD
  #define NEWPANEL
  #define ULTIPANEL 
#endif

// Panucatt VIKI LCD with status LEDs, integrated click & L/R/U/P buttons, separate encoder inputs
//#define LCD_I2C_VIKI
#ifdef LCD_I2C_VIKI
  // This uses the LiquidTWI2 library v1.2.3 or later ( https://github.com/lincomatic/LiquidTWI2 )
  // Make sure the LiquidTWI2 directory is placed in the Arduino or Sketchbook libraries subdirectory.
  // Note: The pause/stop/resume LCD button pin should be connected to the Arduino
  //       BTN_ENC pin (or set BTN_ENC to -1 if not used)
  #define LCD_I2C_TYPE_MCP23017 
  #define LCD_I2C_ADDRESS 0x20 // I2C Address of the port expander
  #define LCD_USE_I2C_BUZZER //comment out to disable buzzer on LCD (requires LiquidTWI2 v1.2.3 or later)
  #define NEWPANEL
  #define ULTIPANEL 
#endif

#ifdef ULTIPANEL
//  #define NEWPANEL  //enable this if you have a click-encoder panel
  #define SDSUPPORT
  #define ULTRA_LCD
  #ifdef DOGLCD // Change number of lines to match the DOG graphic display
    #define LCD_WIDTH 20
    #define LCD_HEIGHT 5
  #else
    #define LCD_WIDTH 20
    #define LCD_HEIGHT 4
  #endif
#else //no panel but just lcd
  #ifdef ULTRA_LCD
  #ifdef DOGLCD // Change number of lines to match the 128x64 graphics display
    #define LCD_WIDTH 20
    #define LCD_HEIGHT 5
  #else
    #define LCD_WIDTH 16
    #define LCD_HEIGHT 2
  #endif
  #endif
#endif

// Increase the FAN pwm frequency. Removes the PWM noise but increases heating in the FET/Arduino
//#define FAST_PWM_FAN

// M240  Triggers a camera by emulating a Canon RC-1 Remote
// Data from: http://www.doc-diy.net/photo/rc-1_hacked/
// #define PHOTOGRAPH_PIN     23

// SF send wrong arc g-codes when using Arc Point as fillet procedure
//#define SF_ARC_FIX

// Support for the BariCUDA Paste Extruder.
//#define BARICUDA

/*********************************************************************\
*
* R/C SERVO support
*
* Sponsored by TrinityLabs, Reworked by codexmas
*
**********************************************************************/

// Number of servos
//
// If you select a configuration below, this will receive a default value and does not need to be set manually
// set it manually if you have more servos than extruders and wish to manually control some
// leaving it undefined or defining as 0 will disable the servo subsystem
// If unsure, leave commented / disabled
//
// #define NUM_SERVOS 3

#include "Configuration_adv.h"
#include "thermistortables.h"

#endif //__CONFIGURATION_H

IMPORTANT! From personal experience! If you are going to replace the original fan for an after-market fan (ebay or alike) you must order av 24Volt fan! The i3 Plus has 24Volt internal power supply!

Also, EVEN MORE IMPORTANT!
Check the polarity of the fan lead wires that they correspond to the i3 Plus fan socket! My fan had opposite polarities on the connector, and when I turned the power on the fan didn't spin, and almost immediately the printer started smelling burnt electronics! I turned the power off instantly and saved my printer from catastrophic failure. I switched places with the fan lead wires in the connector, a bit fiddly to do but apply pressure with a pointy tool and at the same time wiggle and pull out each of the wires from from the connector and reinsert them in opposite positions.

GOOD TO GO!
This worked for me, but I was very lucky not to ruin my printer. I ordered a 50mm radial fan for the DiiiCooler, I chose the correct voltage 24V for the i3 Plus, but I did not think of checking the lead wire polarity before I connected the new fan and turned the power on. I have printed for a couple o weeks now after the incident and the printer does not seem to have been damaged in any way. Lucky me! :)

I have a D8 that has been used that often and now the touch screen doesn't work. Well the screen works but the touch part doesn't.
i have tried a reset and a re-connection but it does not respond when it is touched. Can i plug a pc in and control the D8 with a PC?
Or do i have to buy a new touch screen?

I have been fighting bed leveling since I got this thing 5 years ago. Sometimes I can level just fine. Sometimes I can't at all. I ALWAYS level my gantry using leveling posts off of the motor mounts, so it shouldn't be that, BUT i'm thinking my rods might not be level to the leveled gantry, if that makes sense. I have a BLTouch installed, but the mesh is always slanted. I recently tried converting to a 3-point leveling system because I had heard that it helps a lot of people with their leveling issues. I had an after-market carriage plate with the side hole for 3-point. For now, I have just rotated my stock plate 90 degrees to line the mid-point holes up. I'll look at a better solution later if this works out.

So far, it has not helped. I have the exact same leveling issue as I did with the plate in the original orientation. I have also tried rotating the glass to see if there is a warp there, and I am not seeing a difference.

What I am finding is this:

1) Front right is always the highest point
2) Back right is always the lowest point
3) Back left is always a little high
4) Back right is always a little low

I cannot seem to reconcile all 4 points to a happy medium. 3 will be really close to correct, and one will be off. I am fairly certain it is rod misalignment, which I cannot seem to overcome. It could also be carriage warp, i guess, but I'm thinking 3-point would help compensate for that. Worst case, I guess it could be a bent frame. I am losing my mind over this. Any help would be greatly appreciated.

I have been fighting bed leveling since I got this thing 5 years ago. Sometimes I can level just fine. Sometimes I can't at all. I ALWAYS level my gantry using leveling posts off of the motor mounts, so it shouldn't be that, BUT i'm thinking my rods might not be level to the leveled gantry, if that makes sense. I have a BLTouch installed, but the mesh is always slanted. I recently tried converting to a 3-point leveling system because I had heard that it helps a lot of people with their leveling issues. I had an after-market carriage plate with the side hole for 3-point. For now, I have just rotated my stock plate 90 degrees to line the mid-point holes up. I'll look at a better solution later if this works out.

So far, it has not helped. I have the exact same leveling issue as I did with the plate in the original orientation. I have also tried rotating the glass to see if there is a warp there, and I am not seeing a difference.

What I am finding is this:

1) Front right is always the highest point
2) Back right is always the lowest point
3) Back left is always a little high
4) Back right is always a little low

I cannot seem to reconcile all 4 points to a happy medium. 3 will be really close to correct, and one will be off. I am fairly certain it is rod misalignment, which I cannot seem to overcome. It could also be carriage warp, i guess, but I'm thinking 3-point would help compensate for that. Worst case, I guess it could be a bent frame. I am losing my mind over this. Any help would be greatly appreciated.

I have been considering my upgrades path and one of the items on my list is the Micro Swiss All Metal Hotend. Only problem is that I have seen some problems/negative experienced on thingiverse as well as bad reviews in places like Amazon.

Is this an upgrade I should consider and are there any better recommended alternatives?