General

Hi. Some advice needed please. My Wanhao D12/230 display screen starts blinking and becomes unreadable after printing starts. It only rests to normal after a restart or shutdown.

Just made a video for anyone wondering how to add a BLTouch to a Wanhao i3 running Repetier Firmware
https://youtu.be/U2zxzn0K_5U

I have a Wanhao duplicator i3 plus mark 2 that always start off the print approximately 1-2mm above the build plate. Regardless of how many times I have leveled it. I use a swipe (purge line) before each print, and that is printed perfectly. The printer seem to move up between the print of the purge line and the actual print, causing the first layer not to stick to the plate.

Anyone with the same issues?

Hi I all, I have the d9 MK2.
I run and set the z offset with the auto bed leveling.
If I go back to the leveling it stays the same value and the distance from head to bed looks the same.
But when I run a print the z axis goes to low
Seems that the offset is not been added to my z position.
As anyone else had this issue?

I am thinking of flashing marlin V2 firmware any thoughts?

The extruder no longer heats since yesterday, he stays at room temperature and nothing goes.
Have the motherboard already screwed and checked if everything is properly pinned, but nothing.

Sorry my englisch is not so good, i´m from austria

Hi.
I'm wanting to print a cooler to replace the stock one. Ive seen the cii, dii, cobra and another that was unnamed. Which would you recommend and why?
I do have a 24v radial fan on order so that's not an issue.

Thanks

EDIT: Thanks guys, i've printed the ciicooler and the adapter for the i3 plus, will fit it tomorrow and see how it goes :)

I'm forced to replace my melzi and I had one of these to hand.I have followed this setup guide, http://osoyoo.com/2016/06/30/mks-1-4-3d-printer-board-marlin-firmware-installation-guide/.

Currently I have not hooked up the extruder motor as it has the wrong connector and I have had to order one in. I have also deliberately not connected up the heated bed.

It boots the marlin firmware (on the smart graphics full controller ) and says Mendel ready ,however I have a couple of questions. I have only used the I3 firmware before so forgive me if these are stupid questions

Marlin is installed only because I was following the tutorial, if any one has a preconfigured Repetier firmware and is willing to share then I would build and flash that instead. I tried building the wanhao i3 repetier firmwarefor repetier and changed the board typeto34 (ramps1,4) and display to full graphics controller ,However after flashing the lcd only lit up and I'm not sure the board booted.

home all .movex,y ,z are working. so are the fans. Anybody got any other settings I should change by default?

thanks

Hey guys check out some of my free thingiverse models for fun prints :)

But for any professional FDM printers out there who want a strength and aesthetics test to feel more comfortable about your product, check out my benchmark! It's 5 bucks but it's probably worth it :P

Or.. make your own! Whatever. The boat benchy is kind of worn out in function - I use this one personally...

https://cults3d.com/en/3d-model/tool/professional-adhesion-and-aesthetics-vertical-benchmark

Ok the problem is, I can push the filament through by hand and it all pop out as it should. But it won't feed through, its like it just doesn't get pulled in via the teeth. Has anyone head of this before? Could a lead have worked loose? Where should I start looking. Yes I'm a noob. I do hope it can be resolved, to date I have installed a swiss hot end, new Nema motor and PLA. Can I be pointed in and direction.... I have tried it with the bed levelled, also the bed really low so I can see if any is coming out....and it just doesn't. When I set it off to print, it makes all the noises that it did before...... some PLA dribbles out.... then as it drops down to start printing..... it stops extruding.....any help would be welcomed thanks in advance :)