PolyPearl Tower Torture Test

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I own a Monoprice maker select plus and the only upgrades i have done are: microswiss all metal hotend, glass build plate, and y-carrige plate. I print with 3D Solutech PLA and use Cura as my slicer. I decided to give this a try and it did out come out well. I used 205 for the nozzle and 50 for the bed. I used 0.1mm layers and 2mm retraction at 60mm/s speed. Any tips for making this better would be greatly appreciated.

I also have a monoprice maker select plus with a microswiss all metal hotend and a rear mounted Z-brace kit.

I use this for cooling, plus you can use the stock fan.

High performance cooling assembly
High performance cooling assembly for Wanhao I3 Plus

High performance cooling assembly
by Gascat
High performance cooling assembly for Wanhao I3 Plus

I agree with the other comments.

  • Microswiss instructions say to reduce retraction distance. I only retract [email protected]/s with my Microswiss.
  • Upgrade your cooling fan. The stock cooling fan does not provide sufficient part cooling. There are many choices out there. I use this one: https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:2004629
  • Slow down print speed to 10-15mm/s for layers below 10s. This allows layers more time to cool.

With those simple changes, you should see dramatic improvements.

CiiiCooler for Wanhao Duplicator i3 / Maker Select

This is what I use for cooling and it works very well


This also does not block your view

Then I modified an LED mod to this

All printed in PLA
lots of print time on these so far, no issues.

I would also do all the other things that re recommended by others int his thread.

Also keep in mind that Every Roll of filament may/will act slightly differently.
You will need to adjust based on each roll
there is no "one settings fits all" mode.

WANHAO i3 Fan duct
by Thorped
i3 v2.1 thorped fan adapter
by ellioal

Thanks, do I need to use abs for the ciiicooler or will PLA work

I've been using the DiiCooler designed by the same fellow for a few years. ABS or PETG are the best options. PLA will often deform on long prints or high temp prints.

Ok I will use ABS and do you think the Diicooler or the Ciicooler will be better for me?

i have the Dii cooler on my i3 plus printed in standard Hatchbox PLA.
i have put over 500 hours on it, most being 20+ hours prints (i print detailed figures at 0.08mm) and it has not deformed at all.
works great, would recommend

I've only used the DiiCooler. The designer says Dii is the better of the two in the beginning of the Cii write up, but I suspect the difference isn't that great. Either is a huge improvement over the Monoprice stock fans. I'd suggest printing two of either one. If you ever have a failed print ruin the cooler, you won't be stuck printing a replacement without a fan or saving the old fan forever.

Diicooler provides slightly better cooling, but blocks visibility to the nozzle. Either is a vast improvement from stock.

NOTE: Some of the newer PLA composite filaments (commonly called PLA+) have similar heat tolerance compared to PETG or ABS without the extra hassle. PLA typically prints at 180C but PLA+ prints at 210C or higher. Maker Geek's Raptor PLA prints at 245C which is hotter than ABS or PETG. I don't have any true PLA anymore. I use almost exclusively PLA, but it is the new PLA blends.

+1 for the Raptor PLA suggestion. I have some in my stock pile and it is fantastic. Also, the Maker Geek's monthly mystery box is pretty fun too.

The antenna is a cooling issue. The extruded filament hasn't had enough time to cool because the print area is so small. I once had the exact same issue. The filament fan needs to be high for those small pieces. The center area looks to be the same issue when I magnify the picture. The middle sphere looks like it came out alright- more time per layer and less extruder tip heat in the same little spot. You should be able to use the Regular/Maximum fan speed threshold to get better cooling for the small melted areas. The default 10s threshold is probably fine to use. The fan should then crank up for those smaller areas and they should come out much better.

Extremely fast way to tune retraction. https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:2867033

String retraction tower test

change the retract to [email protected], calibrate e-steps, make sure you have proper cooling, run a temp tower and find out what temp that filament likes, run a retraction test and tune that in and you should be good.