Because of recent bed temperature fluctuations I wanted to do a fresh PID tuning using Repetier-Host as I have done before. Now I'm having problems connecting my Duplicator i3 Plus to my computers.
My old Macbook doesn't even 'see' the printer - despite being the exact computer I have used for PID tunings before. Windows 10, on a desktop computer, does register the printer but doesn't assign a COM port and doesn't give me options for it in Repetier. Cables and USB ports on the computers are checked and ruled out.
I've read something about a jumper on the mainboard - but I'm hesitant to open the printer and poke around... but I'm willing to do if this is the solution.
Anyone an idea how this problem can be solved? If the USB-port on the printer is broken I guess any custom firmware options are out of the window too :/
EDIT: If the USB port is broken - is there any way to do a PID tuning manually?
During a print I noticed in some areas where the hot end is filling in the walls (i dont know the technical name, but its where it goes back and forth to fill in the space),there seems to be excess filament to the point where it protrudes up, and in other places it leaves a sort of jagged pattern. Is this normal? If not, how can this be fixed?
In order to be thorough I have to start from the beginning.
I got my Ender 3 Pro a few weeks back and it came with a defective hot end fan (the front fan, not the side). I got a new fan but it was a 12V as opposed to the 24V so it ended up blowing much harder. I resumed printing and all was good.
I wanted the stock fan though because I didnt wanna introduce any changes in the way the machine printed from the start, so I got the stock fan in and installed it (so much quiter...)
Now I'm having trouble getting the first layer to stick. At first it wouldnt even print the skirt, but now I've gotten to the point where itll get most of the first outline but then itll always mess up at the same point, (shown in the picture as the top row, third from the right), which leads me to think its a leveling issue. I've found i have to level the bed constantly, which leads me to believe the adjustment screws are deviating under print movement. When I level, the center is a hair higher than the corners, so i cant get a post it note underneath.
When it is adding the bottom layer (inside the wall) i can see it is not sticking most of the time and it is kinda just laying the filament in place then then it does a pass in the other direction, i can clearly see the previous line shifting. Sometimes at the very beginning of the print when the filament first meets the bed, itll drag and and up curling up (sometimes hitting the nozzle, getting stuck, and getting dragged along)
Another issue I have is the corners of a print start to curl up almost right away as you can see in the picture (look at the base of the nubs). Any thoughts?
I've tried varying the print settings from
bed 60-75 (pla spool says bed 75-80)
Nothing seems to work.
Update: I cleaned the bed with a disinfectant wipe (dont have any isopropyl alcohol) and i lowered the first later printing temp to 55 degrees, not sure which did the trick but i finally got the first layer. Here are some pictures. Looks like the one on the left is not squishing enough, right? The first layer is still warping as you can see in one of the pictures, there is a slight gaps where the outer layer shifted from the inner layer. What can be causing this?
I have an SKR 1.4 turbo, TMC2209 and BL touch coming soonish. Can anyone point me to a guide?
My goal is to have sensor less homing
and maybe a filament run out switch made from a recycled end stop
Anyone point me to a guild for setting up the Marlin 2.0 firmware for our machines? I have watch many videos on setting up a ender 3.