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Astroprint connected but can't control my printer

by fast-tl

Monoprice Maker Select V2 shows connected to the printer. Same Astrobox since 2017, latest Astroprint software, but the arrows don’t show any movement at the printer. The bed says its heating but nothing happens to increase the temperature. https://youtu.be/pYJJh8LTjeE is the YouTube video I created asking for help.

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looking to replace the stock hotend with an mk8

by Silverman2003

Due to some unforeseen circumstances (me being an idiot) I broke a really tiny part of my keyboard, so I decided to finally make something useful with my di3. so after designing the model I realize the stock nozzle is way too thick, as the print calls for at least 0.15mm or even 0.1mm.

After looking around I could not find any nozzle for the mk10 that is narrower than 0.2mm, but many that are compatible with the mk8. so my question is,

  1. Is there perhaps a 0.1-0.15mm nozzle compatible with the mk10?
  2. If there isn't, is there a relatively cheap mk8 hotend i can replace it with? and if there is, what else do I need to purchase to make the "upgrade"?
Mk10 MK8 prusa_i3_mk3 upgrade
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SD Card Issues (Monoprice Maker Select V2)

by PrancingMoose

I've had this printer for years (I've printed over 13km of filament through it), but it has gradually gotten more and more picky about reading SD cards. I have 5 in various sizes from various manufacturers, and it has decided it only wants to read one of them. Recently, even that card has stopped reading reliably, and has started throwing read errors midway through prints to the point that I can't print anything reliably anymore. Has anyone run into this before? I'm thinking the SD card socket itself may just be worn out.

I'm working on setting up Octoprint and just sidestepping the SD issue entirely, but I'd like to be able to use that slot if possible.

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Wanhao Duplicator i3 V2 - Hotend temperature display cold @100+

by uksikh

Wanhao Duplicator i3 V2 - Hotend temperature display with turning on cold it displays temperature 100+.
I have changed the thermistor for a new one and also plugged a new thermistor directly to the PCB to eliminate wiring short the temperature remains 100+. When heat the hotend the temperatures gets to about 160 degrees then and hovering unstable around there. I noticed that the summary log of the printing time and filament used had reset to zero where I had 25 days and some thousands of meters of filament used.

I have pressed the reset button on the board many times does not have any effect.

I have taken the PCB out don't see anything that is physically shorted. My board is a Melzi V4.3 (A4988) anyone else have similar issue? What was the resolution to fix this error.

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INLAND COPPER SILK PLA JAMMING

by Berach

i3+ runs great with PETG or PLA. MicroSwiss hot end. This stuff jams at the hot end like Heat Creep.. Have tried various temps from 222C to 227C; various retraction from 0.5mm to 2.5mm; various retract speeds from 2.5mm/s to 25mm/s; various print speeds from 60 to 80..All ending in jamming.
About at my wits end here. Any other suggestions helpfull...

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