Have any of you tried to modify your K8200? Change the bed? Change the hot end?
Yes I have. I replaced the original extruder assembly with an MK8 direct drive setup from Geeetech; added my own mount to the frame; added PEI sheeting to the unit; added a brand new MKS Base v1.5 board to replace the existing K8200 controller (as it was working intermittently) with a mount I also designed; replaced the cabling wires to accommodate for the MKS board and also added a MKS v1.2 TFT touchscreen to the setup. Its working great so far! If anyone is interested I can certainly advise them what they need to do to swap over to the MKS board including instructions.
E3D extruder and V6 (all metal) hot end. K8204 mod and new Z axis mount. Used heat paste (CPU to heatsink type) on the heated bed / glass plate. Heats faster but doesn't get much higher than 65 degrees C. Stopped printing ABS - using bridge nylon for most load bearing parts. Best inter-layer bonding I've seen and parts can be used for practical applications!
I have designed my own extruder with the parts of the original extruder for the hotend E3D v6 1,75mm or 3 mm
I'm currently working on a new version
Yes, I've made a few changes:
And I have a few of nice to haves:
That's a fairly comprehensive mod. :) Are you using the original heated bed under the glass plate? We changed ours for one that could take a bit more oomph. The copper circuitry looked a bit thin for the 14 amps we're running now. Installing a 24 V power supply is probably what we should do too. We're running 12 V from an old PC power supply at the moment. Thanks for all these tips. A new extruder is high on the wishlist. I think we may be able to turn this into a decent printer at some point. :)
It's amazing how it's changed in 18 months. It's certainly half way decent
Yes, I'm using the original bed. The bed can be heated to 80 -90 C with ease.
Replacing the extruder is really an upgrade, I had to replace the original extruder about twice a year because of issues like blocking in the teflon part.
I have found that Appling UHU Stick (like prit stick) to the heat bed stopped the curling and detaching from the bed. I have upgraded my hot end for a E3d V6 hot end with really good results.
Since we installed the new bed, we've been fairly successful printing ABS directly onto a clean glass plate. The bed heats up to just below 110 C, rising to 110 + while printing because of the heat/insulation from the ABS itself. So far so good.
The first thing we did was to install a regular glass plate over the heated bed. Made levelling the bed possible, at least. It's been printing PLA with pretty stable results since then. We just bought a new bed to take the temperature up to 110 C. Printing ABS on a bed that only goes to 60 C has been troublesome because of curling, shrinking and the ABS coming loose altogether. The new bed will have it's own power supply (450 W from an old disused PC) and be controlled directly from the printer's main board via a mosfet with a heatsink.We're just waiting for the thermistor to arrive and we'll be good to go. Has anyone else in here had any success trying to print with ABS?
I've found that you don't have to use hairspray, or, gluestick - Dilute P.V.A. glue (about a 10;1 mix) will stick stuff to my glass printbed!