Having built a heated bed from a light bulb and a dimmer, I'm ready for a better one.
This is the real deal. Heats up to 120 degrees C.
Found it at
Fits the M3D perfectly!
- Temperature control
© 2015-2017 Exploit Kings. All rights reserved.
iMe is firmware for the Micro 3D printer that attempts to fix the printer's biggest problem: limited software compatibility. iMe uses RepRap G-code protocol, so it allows you to use the Micro 3D printer with any 3D printing software that supports that protocol. It also features builtin backlash and bed compensation which makes creating good looking prints with other software possible since the G-code never has to be pre-processed beforehand.
The latest version of iMe is V00.00.01.25 released on August 4th, 2017, and an entire changelog for it can be found here.
- Uses RepRap's G-code protocol
- Open source (iMe's source code can be found here)
- Homing uses the accelerometer to minimize grinding
- Builtin backlash, bed, and skew compensation
- Prevents moving the extruder out of bounds in the X and Y directions
- Faster printing
- Allows configuring the steps/mm for each of the motors
The easiest way to install iMe is with M33 Manager, which is available for Windows, macOS, and Linux. Just connect the printer to M33 Manager and click the 'Install iMe firmware' button to install iMe.
iMe is also fully compatible with M33 Fio, and it can be installed from there as well.
Every time the printer powers on it'll be in bootloader mode, so you'll need to click the 'Switch to firmware mode' button in M33 Manager to put the printer into a mode where other 3D printing software can communicate with it. Make sure to disconnect the printer from M33 Manager or close M33 Manager before using the printer with other software so that the printer's serial port doesn't remain busy.
M33 Manager will let you know which serial port the printer is using when it switches it into firmware mode, so in order to use the printer you just have connect to that serial port at a baud rate of 115200 with the 3D printing software that you want to use.
- iMe has no known issues, but M33 Manager has various issues related to thread management
M33 Manager can be used on Windows, macOS, and Linux. In addition to installing iMe, it also allows manually sending commands to the printer in both bootloader and firmware mode which can be used to manage all aspects of the printer.
So far iMe has been tested on Cura, OctoPrint, Simplify3D, Repetier-Host, Printrun, MatterControl, and CraftWare.
I've spent days designing a model for a contest to win the newest M3D machine. It wasn't printing. During a firmware update it disconnected and now I am getting the "invalid firmware" disaster.
Is there anything I can do?
I need to get these printing now if I'm going to enter the contest.
I have the Micro+
I am BRAND NEW to printing and was finally getting the hang of things. This makes me so sad. I've only had the machine since December.
I have tried...
A different computer
uninstalling the software
installing older versions
I am getting bootloader code B007 (whatever that means)
Thanks in advance!
In my latest prints, i started to notice some kind of layer skipping. In the images attached i hope you can see what i mean. I am using octoprint with M33 fio
(which i only can recommend anyone) and in with my calicat (https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:1545913 ) test series i tried several different approaches, changing speed, temp. in both directions ( PLA with 200-220 C ), retraction on, off or higher retraction amount, and I´m starting to think it is some kind of hardware related issue. Can anybody tell me how to fix this / what i could test fourther?
( the image quality is not that great i hope the problem is still visible )
I needed to replace several parts of my printer, including the fan, so I was reading the Fan Replacement guide here:
And the very first line caught my eye: "One side of the X Rods will be glued to the sliders, one side will not."
Wait, is one side of these these supposed to be glued? Because mine never were, and I always wondered if that was normal, because the rods actually slightly move due to the gap from not being held down in any way whenever the printer calibrates it's x/y axis before a print.
Does anyone here have X-Axis that are glued down? If so, which side? And would it be a good idea to glue mine then to avoid issues/inaccuracies? I think the rods might slightly be moving during movements/homing because they are not glued down.