I have made proper heated bed for the Micro if you want any information just ask.
Heated Bed- http://www.ebay.com/itm/PCB-Heated-Bed-Hot-Plate-120-120mm-12V-MK2B-Kit-For-Mendel-RepRap-3D-Printer- /192099356264?epid=551148708&hash=item2cba038e68:g:mU4AAOSwNnRYmu1t Power supply (Choose 12v 20a)- http://www.ebay.com/itm/AC-110V-220V-TO-DC-5V-12V-24V-Switch-Power-Supply-Driver-Adapter-LED-Strip-Light-/152134115704?var=&hash=item236be66178:m:mnohYz4NZlT_Dq5l5lWNUMg Temperature sensor- https://www.amazon.co.uk/KKmoon-Temperature-Controller-Thermocouple-Protection/dp/B00HC6PDAW/ref=pd_bxgy_60_2?_encoding=UTF8&psc=1&refRID=MENEWN2TPFSK3S1T95YB Box- https://www.amazon.co.uk/sourcingmap-170mmx140mmx95mm-Dustproof-Junction-Enclosure/dp/B06ZY2WG9H/ref=sr_1_17?ie=UTF8&qid=1498975174&sr=8-17&keywords=junction+box Fan (Optional)- https://www.amazon.co.uk/gp/product/B00QPUEUSW/ref=s9_dcacsd_dcoop_bw_c_x_1_w
Next step is to attach it onto the Micro.
Ispiration came from https://www.thingiverse.com/groups/m3d-the-micro-3d-printer/topic:5457
© 2015-2017 Exploit Kings. All rights reserved.
iMe is firmware for the Micro 3D printer that attempts to fix the printer's biggest problem: limited software compatibility. iMe uses RepRap G-code protocol, so it allows you to use the Micro 3D printer with any 3D printing software that supports that protocol. It also features builtin backlash and bed compensation which makes creating good looking prints with other software possible since the G-code never has to be pre-processed beforehand.
The latest version of iMe is V00.00.01.25 released on August 4th, 2017, and an entire changelog for it can be found here.
- Uses RepRap's G-code protocol
- Open source (iMe's source code can be found here)
- Homing uses the accelerometer to minimize grinding
- Builtin backlash, bed, and skew compensation
- Prevents moving the extruder out of bounds in the X and Y directions
- Faster printing
- Allows configuring the steps/mm for each of the motors
The easiest way to install iMe is with M33 Manager, which is available for Windows, macOS, and Linux. Just connect the printer to M33 Manager and click the 'Install iMe firmware' button to install iMe.
iMe is also fully compatible with M33 Fio, and it can be installed from there as well.
Every time the printer powers on it'll be in bootloader mode, so you'll need to click the 'Switch to firmware mode' button in M33 Manager to put the printer into a mode where other 3D printing software can communicate with it. Make sure to disconnect the printer from M33 Manager or close M33 Manager before using the printer with other software so that the printer's serial port doesn't remain busy.
M33 Manager will let you know which serial port the printer is using when it switches it into firmware mode, so in order to use the printer you just have connect to that serial port at a baud rate of 115200 with the 3D printing software that you want to use.
- iMe has no known issues, but M33 Manager has various issues related to thread management
M33 Manager can be used on Windows, macOS, and Linux. In addition to installing iMe, it also allows manually sending commands to the printer in both bootloader and firmware mode which can be used to manage all aspects of the printer.
So far iMe has been tested on Cura, OctoPrint, Simplify3D, Repetier-Host, Printrun, MatterControl, and CraftWare.
1 - The packaging is piss poor with no outer box. Mine came pretty banged up but luckily the printer survived FedEx using it like a football.
2 - Software - Still horrible. No different than the Micro. iOS is very temperamental and the Windows version is much better and actually works (once you get the .net framework installed). The Windows version has a Spooler that you will need to access and is in your system toolbar. The Windows one on starup will force you to remove Gantry clips (of which there are none). You need to do a PC reboot and reboot the printer too and that error message will go away. The software will say "beta" after install. Post reboot - it says "alpha" (which it really is a .001 version). There is no startup wizard to help a new user through this mess. People new to 3d printing will be lost.
3 - Backlash - this is my main gripe. I have 2 Makerbots and a New Matter Mod-T (I dumped my Micro for this beginner device). None of these machines require backlash tweaking. Out of the box the PRO still makes squares with rounded corners as "circles". You will need to spend about 8 hours tweaking the backlash to get this machine to print a circle. This should be done at the factory and saved in the firmware and is user configurable due to belt stretching, belt replacement, etc...
4 - Lubrication - the Z-axis threaded bolts need to be lubricated from the factory otherwise your PRO will squeek like an old lady. M3D did not lubricate so I used some PTFE grease that I use on my Makerbots. Much better afterwards. There is still creeping sounds and that might be due to it stretching the frame as the Z-axis moves way up.
5 - Build Plate - the build plate even heated will not allow PLA to stick reliably. You are back to using BlueTape on this build plate.
6 - Internal feed - works better than it did in the Micro. I never had issues with the internal in the Micro before I dumped it.
7 - Non-existent Customer Support - There is literally NO customer support. You get an automated email saying they'll take 48hrs+ to reply to your email. Well, that doesn't do anyone any good. So they send you over to Discord and have the "community" help you debug your machine. Well, 99.99% of customers have already returned the device by now. Here's the Discord link used by M3D. https://discord.gg/GmZAdVx
8 - Physical Construction - much better than the Micro. My Micro would change shape because the frame was too flexible. This does not happen on the PRO. My M3D LED lights are mis-aligned so only the bottom half of their logo is lit. If I care enough, I will open it up and adjust its position.
9 - Print Head - the fan no longer sounds like a jet engine and is pretty quiet. You can have this in the house and continue a print at night if you wish and it won't keep you awake. With the current state of the software, I would recommend NOT doing this because of thermal run-away concerns. In fact in iOS - heated bed is turned off because it isn't ready. In Windows, the heated bed works. M3D has not made any statement on how safe it is to use the heated bed for 10+ hrs on a long print.
Overall - After spending the better part of 6 hours debugging the machine, it is finally printing. I have not yet gone through the torture of backlash tweaking. IMHO, this is not a machine worthy of $700+ of your hard earned money. In it's current state - $299 is pushing it given that you will spend lots of your time-off messing with it to work properly. If you are retired and have a boat load of time to tweak and mess with it - then go ahead. If you want a machine that simply prints whatever you give it - this is NOT your machine out of the box. Get a Makerbot/Ultimaker/Prusa or other reputable 3d printer.
Does this machine suck Donkey Balls - Not completely. It actually has the potential to be a good printer if M3D can make the software work better and fix the mandatory backlash optimization. The machine is still slow when I compare it to my Makerbot. The Makerbot literally jumps and prints. The PRO takes its sweet time getting there but will eventually get there.
Note - I have not completed the backlash optimization nor have I successfully completed a large print. I printed out retraction test cubes and they were not square (backlash). I printed out the Makerbot bolt and nut and it wouldn't fit because of backlash issues making a square with rounded corners. Tonight, I will be torturing myself with backlash optimization and lose more sleep. I want this to be a good printer, but you need to spend too much time doing it.