This is basically a mirror of the thread I created on M3D's forum, but Muele has told me lots of people can't access the M3D forum's, and therefore can't access the tutorial. So I'm creating this thread to share the calibration method I use, and now many other people use.
I'm not going to copy and paste every image and word from the post, because I can't get images to display on this, so what I did instead was snapshot my entire post from the M3D forum, and uploaded the image to Dropbox.
To view the image, either download it (then zoom in to see it), or just try to zoom in on your browser if you can, but I recommend you just download the image and open it in an image editor, as it is easier to view (since it is a long image).
Anyway, here's the link to the tutorial image:https://www.dropbox.com/s/yl5s337fpd7mpnk/M3DCalibration.png?dl=0
If you have any questions, be sure to ask! (I'll try to remember to check these forums aswell now!)
Try using their "Discordapp" channel. However, the design of all M3D machines to date is poor.
Hey, image im getting is in very small resolution.
You should see a plus/minus button when you hover over the image, use that to increase the resolution and then you can scroll up and down the image
Can you make an updated one for the new software thats out for the micro+?
I'll see what I can do. Cannot make any promises but I'll see if I can make the time
Hi I am looking for a little bit of help.
I followed the directions on calibrating the M3D but when I try to put the paper under the nozzle it won't fit so I raise the nozzle but I have raised the nozzle to the max height and it still wont fit, is there anything else I can do?
I am using the latest M3D software and it is in beta so maybe that could be the issue I just don't know.
Try performing a bed level automatic calibration, and also a Drive recalibration.
This should reset the Z positions, and then you can try and calibrate again.
If that doesn't work, make sure after you apply the manual calibration value for a corner, that you reset the print head position in that corner so it can actually apply the value you changed.
The only thing I can further suggest if that doesn't work is to find the GCode to set the current Z value as the overall bed height (for the centre of the bed), and raise it until you can calibrate your corners propely
How often i have to calibrate the bed? What you guys think?
every time i...
I recalibrate mine very rarely. Last time I calibrated was over a month ago. Some people however like to recalibrate every print. It's really down to how well your printer keeps calibration
A slightly updated version (no changes as such to the method itself, just some wording changes, and extra paragraphs added), just thought I'd post the updated version because I was bored :)https://www.dropbox.com/s/a4wkua67srrrpgj/M3DCalibration2.png?dl=0
I've been dreadfully trying to gain access to their forums with no success for the past 30 days.
M3D definitely has potential, however lacks documentation.
Got a pretty sweet calibration following this guide using OctoPrint with Fio. For those of you trying OctoPrint, definitely give absolute / relative modes a shot, and compare results. Finally after a long saturday of careful scientific observation, noting down results, and drawing conclusions, I may have a functioning printer.
Aidan, Thanks a million again.
Hope you can get onto the forums soon! I've heard it can be a pain!
It does indeed have potential, but the documentation and communication of M3D is lacking massively and thats their problem.
Glad you got a good calibration! It definitely worked much better for me after this! Also, Fio is such a great program isn't it! :D
Im glad it helped you! I'm always here to help ;)
To be fair, now that I know there's hope outside those forums, not sure if I would ever want to go there again. We should try to shift the community to here / somewhere more open (like Thingiverse)
Fio is amazing. Not only I've got a good calibration, but also cranked up the speeds to 50mm/s and now my M3D is much much faster too.
Again, thanks a ton.
I'm sure it's probably too difficult to shift the entire community over here, but instead I could act as a middle man, I could create mirrors of posts which are important on this forum website if you guys would like that.
Fio is a great program! I wan't to try to get it to work on my raspberry pi!
I'm glad I helped :)
You're my hero! Nothing else I've been able to find has answered my questions so clearly, or made this process seem actually to make sense! I only have one remaining question. I'm a Mac user and wanting to stay with v126.96.36.199. I'm using Cura to generate gcode and then loading it into the spooler, instead of using the M3D software to print. What do I need to do to keep it from recalibrating and losing my settings before each print!
I'm glad this tutorial has helped you!
I personally haven't used v188.8.131.52, but I've heard lots about it, and have contacted support about some issues. I believe that when you start a print, and you get the dialogue box which says about hollow fill, raft and all of that there is an option to deselect 'Home Bed', and if you deselect that then it will not lose calibration before every print.
However, as you load externally using Cura, I'm not totally sure of the process you go through, but I can imagine that this dialogue box doesn't appear. So the only thought I have is to search for this option in the settings, but I'm almost completely sure that it's not an option which is in the main options settings. Another thought would be to start a print using the M3D software, and deselect 'Home Bed', and as with the other options on the software, it usually saves what you selected from one print to the next, so when you next load in a GCode it may or may not use that option (yet again I haven't tested this).
Obviously you could use v184.108.40.206 or v220.127.116.11, but you have a Mac, and that software is not available for you. So if the options in the previous paragraph didn't work for you, the only options left are these:
-Use the M3D slicer, and this does mean you will have to ditch using Cura as a slicer until they get these problems fixed.
-Use M3D Fio software, which is a community made software, and in many peoples opinions, works much better than the M3D software, and by default uses Cura as a slicer. If you would like more information on this, I could create a mirror post of what's on the official M3D forums on M3D Fio, since I know some people cannot access the forums.
I'd love to see the post about M3D Fio, thank you!
Ok, I contacted the creator, and he made this thread for you guys:http://www.thingiverse.com/groups/m3d-the-micro-3d-printer/topic:5096
Ok, I'll contact the creator and see what can be arranged!
Thank you for this!!!
No problem! I hope it helps you!
Can you put the link in your public folder. This link fails cause it is in your home folder
Oh yes! Sorry i've fixed the link, I copy-pasted the wrong one!
This link works for me:https://www.dropbox.com/s/yl5s337fpd7mpnk/M3DCalibration.png?dl=0
Thanks, will take a look. But, How to join their forums, that is very frustrating.
Some moderators and other users are contacting M3D to try and help make this process easier. I will update you on the progress (if there is any)