Firmware/Hardware Upgrades

Firmware marlin_firmware

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im currently dealing with a Firmwareuptdate to Marlin on my MPMD.

Do you recommend to do this update?
Does anyone have informations about the Marlin Firmware on the mini delta?

As far as i understand is that i will lose following by flashing Marlin

  • the wifi upload trough the web interface
  • wifi configuration by gcode configuration
  • 4 point bed leveling (3 point + center)

Whats your opinion?

not worth it. I did it after I did a 770mm Z mod to my monoprice mini delta in order to change some firmware parameters https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:3599718

It was not worth the loss of the UI, WIFI Gcode, Wifi Uploading, etc

plus i use windows 10 and ST link drivers only work on windows 7........ so i had to ponterface from a vitrual box and that was a pain since the only was to use the marlin mod is over usb.

pretty much its only worth it if you actually need it for something. the monoprice firmware is just counterfeit marlin anyhow (probably) I found you can get pretty much anything you want done with starting and ending Gcode as long as you are creative.

i would learn G code its simple and i switched back after i learned how to better deal with the MPMD's issues by manipulating the start and end G code. the MPMD responds to marlin flavor Gcode ( gee i wonder why ) http://marlinfw.org/meta/gcode/

MPMD Monoprice Mini Delta 770mm or Custom Height Z Mod

Hi Redundant_Design,

thank you for your reply. I like the idea of your 770mm Z mod :-). Great work.

Could you also figure out how to heat the nozzle and the bed at the same time?
My bed is dropping about 10 to 15 °C while heating the nozzle.
In the marlin gcode i could only find how to target a temperature and so on.
Nothing that is overriding the heating behaviour.
This is the only reason why im dealing with.

my long detailed comment got flagged because i linked a heated bed module -.- so short version since i do not feel like re typing a few paragraphs is this.

the printer has a 5A power supply and the firmware shuts off the heated bed and the hotend when the steppers need power because the total power use with everything turned on is about 12A so the heated bed has a low duty cycle. if you override this in marlin your steppers are going to lose a lot of steps.

install a heated bed module and run a laptop power supply through the heated bed module to the heated bed. you have to use a higher voltage around 19v but no more than 24v with at least a few amps. normally this would cause a fire =P but not in this instance due to the low duty cycle.

you can go the marlin route but i looked up the Mosfets on the board and they suck. odds are you will just burn the heated bed Mosfet if you try and drive the heated bed with a decent amount of power and a high duty cycle. you will also need at least a 10A power supply if you install marlin and override the duty cycle settings. and even with a 10A power supply you will not get it above 55c without losing steps

I installed a heated bed module on my printer and it works great with a old laptop power supply but i have not used the heated bed in a while. i print without it just fine. this print here i am doing right now without a heated bed. you may want to calibrate your endstops with M666 g code and maybe your radius as well if you can not get prints to stick.

Thank you a lot for all the effort you invested.
This helps me a lot. I upgraded to a PEI sheet and my prints are sticking well.
I aready did a lot in calibrating the endstops and radius so i guess its fine like it is.
In your picture i noticed that you upgraded the bearings also.
Where yours fitting in the carriages or do you using a printed version.

I bought and installed igus bearings and they where not fitting tight - they poorly holding in place...
Needed to fix them like the originales that where glued in.

Also the pulleys are just glued in place that i cannot move them to install the dampeners...

The original bearings are not glued they are pressure fit in.

And what do you mean the pulleys are glued in? They should be secured at the top with M3 bolts so you can adjust the tension on the belt.

I just used some cheap Chinese lock tight to keep them in. You can also use thread sealant tape because it's very thin if you want to increase the pressure to get a tighter tolerance on the 8mm rod. I just used some lock tight. I know it can be addictive to 3d print everything but time is money and odds are you would spend 3 days making a part and trying to get it just right when some lock tight thread sealant or thread sealant tape would do the exact same thing. :P

I would recommend you use ball bearing lm8uu's if you can find some good ones. The only reason I am using polymer ones is because I got sick of cheap lm8uu ball bearings failing. It was to much of a pain to take that giant printer apart all the time just to replace one.

I installed of ignus bearings on a small stock MPMD and the quality on small circles was reduced a little bit due to slip and stick. This is less of a problem with my giant delta because quality only needs to be decent enough.

I am only using the ignus bearings due to maintenance issues. I Would always recommend ball bearings unless you need to maintain a ton of printer's.

the printer comes with a 12V 5A power supply if we break our power use down then it looks like this

Power use:
1: Hotend ~ 40W = 12v 3.333A
2: Drive steppers X3 ~ 12v 0.8A Each = 12V 2.4A
3: Extruder Stepper ~ 12v 1A
4: X2 12V fans 12v 0.1A each = 0.2A
5: Stepper Driver Losses ~ 12W waste heat = 12v 1A
6: Heated Bed ~ 40W = 12v 3.333A

Total power use = 12v 12.066A

As you can see we have a serious problem here =P

the best solution in my opinion is to solder this https://www.ebay.com/itm/2pcs-ANET-A8-MOSFET-Board-Upgrade-3D-Printer-Heated-Bed-Power-Module-i3-Heatbed/223305637201?epid=15025814885&hash=item33fe0d9d51:g:7lUAAOSwXGRcKjUB to the heatbed and use a beefy external power supply around 19V but no more than 24V or the bed will cook. the problem is the duty cycle is to low because the printer shuts the heat bed and the hotend off when the steppers need power because they used a 5A power supply when they should have used at least a 10A power supply because profits. The hotend suffers less from this bacuse it needs less power to hold a decent temperature once it has reached it.

if you use a external heat bed module you can than use a higher voltage on the heat bed. this will compensate for the low duty cycle by making the heat bed heat up faster because you can pump a higher voltage with more amps into the heat bed then it was designed for. normally this would cause a fire but probably not in this case due to the low duty cycle. =P

another option is to re-flash the firmware to marlin and add a 10A power supply. the MPMD duty cycle is firmware locked so you would have to re-flash it to marlin to gain that ability and you would lose a lot of functionality such as UI, Wifi, alot of SD support basically printing only over USB interface.

I re-flashed my MPMD to marlin so i could change such thing like the duty cycle and calibration stuff for my large Z mod and ended up going back to the stock firmware. I ended up installing a heated bed module and run it off a 19v laptop power supply. It now gets up to 60c no problem and stays at 60c while printing. All that said I have found little actual need for a heated bed in general the same is true for for auto bed calibration.

I am printing this 550mm tall violin right now and it stuck just fine with no heated bed. i have found a well stuck raft to be far superior in combating warping compared to a heated bed. This print was also started without the auto bed leveling feature. I in fact notice worse print repeat ability when using the auto leveling feature. on several occasions the auto bed leveling feature has added so much additional calculations per move the printer has just croaked mid print after making my print look like sloth from the goonies.

are you having trouble getting your prints to stick? a really hot bed will help with this but its just a quick fix to a leveling problem. you can solve it with endstop calibration and changing the radius setting.