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by dlb5


This assembly instructions will try to complete the info in MyRCCar 1/10 Monster /Crawler Chassis with Configurable 270 to 330mm Wheelbase. If you read the thing summary and you need more info I hope you can find it here :)

Remember that after publishing the main chassis thing I also published a Reduction Gearbox and some Upgrades you must know as well to fully understand this instructions.

This car is intended to use sourced transmission, the same as in OBTS Chassis. There are many sourced parts, including Wheels, Shocks, CVDs, Central Dogbones, Differentials, Pinions, Bearings, Screws and Nuts... and don't forget All the Electronics!!! including, Motor, ESC, Servo, Battery, Charger, Radio+Reciever...

Remember you can see the MTC Chassis in action in this videos: First VIDEO, Speed Build Test Drive of the MTC Chassis and MyRCCar MTC Chassis with the Typical Pickup Body in Action!


(any correction welcome)

  • Scale: The proportion between the real size of a thing and the size of a model or drawing of it. As you probably know, I like 1/10 scale for its simplicity in metric system. 10 meters in real size will be 1 meter in 1/10 scale. A 500mm diameter real wheel will be a 50mm wheel in 1/10 scale.
  • Wheelbase: The distance between front and rear axles.
  • Caster: The rotation of an axle (front or rear) and its suspension system over itself. They vary caster in sourced RCs in many ways, I try to rotate all the related parts certain degrees over the axle center.
  • Camber: Is the inclination of a wheel relative to its normal position.
  • Toe: The convergency or divergency of wheels in an axle. If the alignment of the wheels of an axle converge into a point in the forward direction I think they call this "Toe-In", while if they diverge they call it "Toe-Out". This "deviation" can also be measured in degrees.

Options, but not so much:

This chassis should allow you to build a Monster Truck, Scale or Crawler RC car. By now, there is only one option for the kind of suspension, independent one, but I hope I can use most part of this chassis in the future to build a multilink suspension version with rigid F/R axles. The transmission system is the same than in OBTS chassis but you can use a reduction gearbox with differential instead of the simple central differential.

The main option in this chassis by now is THE WHEELBASE. The main measures for the chassis are similar to the ones of an Axial SCX10 and allow you to build a model with a wheelbase from 270 to 310 mm just moving the front and rear platforms. If this is your case, align all four holes from the center side bar and the F/R side bar. If you want the extra 10 or 20 mm to build a 320 or 330 mm wheelbase model you will also have to displace Front and/or Rear side bars those extra 10 mm so just 3 of the holes will be aligned.

But wich wheelbase should I use?
If you have in mind to build a Scale car you will want it to have the same wheelbase than your real car model. With this chassis the exact available wheelbases are 270, 280, 290, 300, 310, 320 and 330 mm.
If you want to use the [FJ Cruiser Body]() or the [Typical Pickup Body]() you must build a 270 or 280 mm wheelbase for the FJ Cruiser and a 290 mm wheelbase chassis for the Pickup. I recently published a longer bed for the pickup to make 310 mm wheelbase version.

And now that you know your main wheelbase you must know wich front partial wheelbase and rear partial wheelbase you want. If you plan to use big motors (longer than 50mm) you will need 145 mm front partial wheelbase or bigger, 135 mm version won't be enough. Also, if you use same partial wheelbase in the front and the rear, you will be able to use same length central dogbones.

If you don't want to "re-design" the adaptors for the FJCruiser and the 290 Pickup Bodies use 145mm front partial wheelbase and 135mm rear wheelbase, is also the one I will use as an example.

Let's start building!

I tryed to minimize the need to reprint parts when making config changes, but it is not possible 100%. Let's start printing some parts that will not change.

Bars and platforms: Printing

With this parts you will build the main structure for the chassis. It consists on 2 side bars (formed by 3 parts) and 3 platforms, the Front one, with its support for the servo, the Rear one, wich have options to maximize battery size availabe space, and the Central platform.

Print1: You can print two MRCC_MTC_CentralSideBar.
They are swappable, so no need to mirror them.

Print2: Print four MRCC-MTC_FrontRearSideBar.
If you mirror two of them, you will be able to have the same surface finish for all of them when assembled. If this doesn't mind you, they are swappable too.
If you plan to use the motor dissipator+fan upgrade you will need some little extra space, maybe you need to print one of this MRCC_MTC_FrontSideBar_SHORTER to replace the front left one.

Print3: Time to print the MRCC_MTC_Platform_Central_NEW. With this one you will be able to use the gearbox or the simple central differential housing.

Print4: The MRCC_MTC_Platform_Front has no versions by now. So just print it. If you need some extra distance for your servo as it happened to me, you can use the spacers I attach.

Print5: Now you could print MRCC_MTC_Platform_Rear. You will be able to move this platform to have different rear partial wheelbases, but if you want the maximum space for the battery you will need to print MRCC_MTC_Platform_Rear_PLUS10 for a 145mm rear partial wheelbase or MRCC_MTC_Platform_Rear_PLUS20 for a 135mm rear partial wheelbase.

Print6: Print two MRCC_MTC_Platform_Holder to have all the needed parts to do the first assembly!

Bars and platforms: Assembling

The next drawing shows how to assemble the previous printed parts to get a chassis with 145mm partial front wheelbase and 135mm partial rear wheelbase. The more colorful parts are the ones with options, so pay special attention to them when selecting the ones you need. You can see in the left bottom corner of the drawing that im using the middle hole of the 3 in the front of the chassis side bars. That one would be for the 145mm partial front wheelbase while the others are for 135mm and 155mm partial front wheelbases. Use the drawing as a guide to know wich screws use and where, but you will need to use them in the right holes for your build.


Now that you have this in your hands you can start feeling the size of your truck! Remember to test if you are printing things "the right size". I would pay special attention to the size of the holes, they are two kind, "passing" and "screwable". Your M3 screws should pass quite easy through "passing" holes. The same way be sure they make a good connection when you screw up one quite strong :S (be careful about how much strong :S).

If you are happy with the results, you are ready for the next step!!!

Front/Rear Axles: Printing

There are just few parts this time that has no options... I mean, you must know wich CVDs you want to use in your build to be able to select the proper parts to build your F/R axles.

Print7: Print one MRCC_MTC_FRD_BOTTOM_5104. You will have to add supports in your slicing program to print this correctly.
The F/R housings are the same than in OBTS chassis, and they are designed to house a HSP 02024 differential and pinion or similar ones. They use two 10x15x4 bearings to hold each diff. and two 5x10x4 bearings to hold each pinion. Remember you will also need two 1/10 standard vases for the diff pinions.
Test the bearings, the pinion and the 02024 differential to see if everything is printing fine. If it is, print another one for the other axle.

Print8: Print one MRCC_MTC_FRD_TOP. Hold it with the bottom part and test it with the rest of the sourced parts. If everything looks ok, print the other one for the other axle ;)

Print9: Print one MRCC_MTC_FRD_UAS_6C to have 6º caster in the front axle. This pair is an easy print. If you want 0º Caster in the rear axle print one MRCC_MTC_FRD_UAS_0C. This is the caster combination I choosed, but you should be able to use 0º or 6º in any of them.

Print10: Print one MRCC_MTC_FRD_LA_Holder6c for the front axle and one MRCC_MTC_FRD_LA_Holder0c if you use my caster combination. Choose the right ones for yours. I recommend to print this parts in the provided position adding some easy supports in your slicer.

Print11: Print two MRCC_MTC_FRD_C-HUB_Front. This parts are needed to have steering in the front axle and they have no options, but the rest of the parts to print depend of the CVDs you want to use.

Print12: The suspension arms, the upper and the lower ones depend of the CVD you want to use.

  • With the 715mm from pin to pin version you can use many CVDs, including HSP 106015, HSP 166015, Quanum Vandal Front CVDs and OpenRC Truggy Reely CVDs. If this is your case, print one MRCC-MTC-SUS_UpperArm_715 and one MRCC-MTC-SUS_LowerArm_715. Wait to print the ones for the rest of the arms until you know everything works good with your CVDs.
  • With the 769mm from pin to pin version you should be able to use HSP 108015 and HSP 188015 CVDs. If you have some of this ones you will need to print one MRCC_MTC_SUS_UpperArm_769 and one MRCC_MTC_SUS_LowerArm_769 to be able to do the proper tests with your CVDs before printing the ones for the rest of the arms.

Print13: Now lets print what i call the Front Steering Blocks and the Rear Fixed Blocks, wich are completely dependent of your CVDs so...

This parts use bearings so be sure they get properly in place. TypeA and TypeD use two 5x10x4 bearings for each wheel. TypeB and TypeC use one 5x10x4 and one 10x15x4 bearings for each wheel.

Front/Rear Axles: Assembling

Let's first assemble the front axle with 6º Caster. If your diff housing upper and lower parts are working good, attach them the 6º Caster Lower Arm Holder
and one of the 6º Caster Upper Arm Supports. Use the single M3x8mm Countersunk screw and the simple M3 Nut to hold everything together by now.
As a second step, you must try the rest of the parts of a front suspension arm, so use the drawing below to figure out how to assemble it. The 3mm piano wire represented by blue cilinders must pass easy enough to enter with some little hits but not very hard ones, so use some 3mm tool to re-do the holes if needed.


In this stage, you must be able to test if the transmission system works well enough, mostly the CVDs, so if everything works as spected you can print the rest of your upper and lower arms:)

Central Diff. / Gearbox: Printing

One more time you have options here. You can print the normal central diff. housing or you can print a configurable reduction gearbox. But there is something you maybe don't know... YOU CAN USE THE REDUCTION GEARBOX AS A SIMPLE CENTRAL DIFFERENTIAL HOUSING.

If you don't know very good how your motor is going to perform with this "plastic beast", print the gearbox. It allows you to mount the differential in the normal direction and use it with the gearings to have a reduction or you can mount it in the other direction and "attack" the differential direct with the motor pinion. Only if you want to reduce weight at maximum and if you are sure you want the simple pinion/diff central transmission, print the simple central diff housing.

Print14: Let's print the MRCC_MTC_CD_GEARBOX_BOTTOM_V3. Botyoyo made some corrections because the gearbox was not correctly designed to fit the SST differentials. The version of the gearbox I link here is modified to correct those problems.

Print15: Some options here one more time, you can use a "Trooper" central differential or an "SST" central differential. Some users are trying using 02024 as central differential making some mods to it. Look for their published parts or read the comments and forums for more info ;) If you want the bearings to fit good into this parts and them fitting good into the gearbox or the central diff housing, use "horizontal expansion" in your slicer (I use -0.02mm in mine) to make parts "smaller" and holes "bigger" :S

Print16: Print MRCC_MTC_CD_TOP_NEW It will be also compatible with the simple central differential housing, the same than the adaptors.

As for a first try we are going to use the "reduction gearbox" as a simple central diff, those are all the parts we need by now.

Central Diff. / Gearbox and Front/Rear Axles: Assembling

If you have your electronics, your central diff and your pinion for the motor, I'm quite sure you will want to do some tests. First of all, prepare the two M3 screws and washers you are going to use to hold the motor in their places inside gearbox. You can mount the motor and pinion then. For that, insert the pinion inside the gearbox and then put the motor in place while you insert the shaft of the motor in the pinion. This is kind of tricky ;) You must then screw the motor in place using your tool through the holes in front of the motor screw's heads. Leave it a little loose so you can adjust the final position after inserting the differential. For that, put your adapters in your differential and insert the assembly into the gearbox or central diff housing.

Now it's time to adjust and screw the motor in it's "final" position. This position is also a hard thing to find, because very far and you are not using the full teeth of your gears and you could have problems. So near with no gap and you will have extra heat wich could cause problems too...

WARNING This kind of transmission is probably not good for you, it depends of the kind of motor, if you have full metal transmission, big or small wheels, the quality of your build and printed parts... so spect having problems of heat in your motor, maybe in your plastic parts if there is something not adjusted... many things can go wrong so I hope you can be patient to make things work good :)

Sooooooo... Now it's time to put all that we printed together!!! You can see it in the next drawing but it is so easy! Use four M3x12 Countersunk screws to mount each axle on the chassis and six M3x20-30mm (from 20mm to 30mm length) Countersunk screws to mount the gearbox. If your central diff with it's adaptors is on place, you can screw the gearbox/central diff. housing TOP with two M3x12 Grub screws.


At this stage, with all printed parts together, the chassis structure is a little weak. You can take advantage of this to get the central dogbones in their places. Maybe you can do the chassis to flex a little so you can put them in their places, then you release your strength to make the chassis come back to normal position. You can of course put them in place holding them in their position before screwing the 4 screws of an axle.

Steering and Covers : Printing

What I call "covers" in this chassis are not just that, they have a structural function. They will join important parts of the structure in a geometry wich will make the whole chassis be more rigid and strong. The steering parts are easy this time because no options. You will need four 6x12x4 bearings for the steering towers.

Print17: Print two MRCC_MTC_Steering_Pivot and one MRCC_MTC_Steering_Plate

Print18: Let's print the upgraded version of the left tower with the arm for the servo. So print MRCC_MTC_Steering_Tower1ServoSTRONGER. This print will require supports for the servo arm so add them in your slicer. Finally print one MRCC_MTC_Steering_Tower2 to finish with the steering parts :)

Print19: Ok print two MRCC_MTC_FRD_SteeringHolder. This ones are needed to hold the steering system in place but are also part of the bottom cover of the car, so you will need one also for the rear axle without steering.

Print20: Time to choose again! To finish the bottom part of the car we need the bottom covers. This parts are dependent of the partial wheelbases you are using. They can be mounted in the front or the rear for a given partial wheelbase. You can be using 145 in the front and 155 in the back or 165 in the front and 135 in the back... So print the ones wich fit your build. They are MRCC_MTC_Cover_Bottom135, MRCC_MTC_Cover_Bottom145, MRCC_MTC_Cover_Bottom155 and MRCC_MTC_Cover_Bottom165. I only used the first two ones by now...

Print21: Now is time to choose if you want to use motor dissipator with fan or not.

Print22: Let's also print this upgraded MRCC_MTC_Cover_TopFR_MaxBattSize for the rear part so we can use big batteries. The user Saccco also made a version of this part to get also more space!

Print23: If you want your battery to go a little more secure, you can print a battery holder (Published in Upgrades) but it depends on your rear partial wheelbase to have the max battery space available for each wheelbase.

Steering and Covers : Assembling

First of all you must insert the 6x12x4 bearings into the towers, then insert the steering pivots in the towers. Is a good moment to screw the "balljoints" in the servo arm of the left tower and the steering arms of both towers if you are going to use this "balljoint" system. Also attach the steering plate to one of the towers and give it a little loose.

Now put the steering parts over the front steering holder and the front bottom cover and use two M3x12mm Countersunk screws to hold them together. Do the same with the rear steering holder and rear bottom cover. Screw them together with two M3x12mm Countersunk screws and two self-locking M3 Nuts.

To finally put this bottom parts on the chassis, use eight M3x16 Countersunk screws. The chassis should become quite more rigid after screwing all this bottom parts.


Maybe it's time for you to complete the steering system with the servo link and steering links... You can of course mount the servo on place and make your first steering moves to see if everything is working fine. Remember to screw the steering pivots from the upside, near the servo housing with two M3x10 Countersunk screws.


You are almost there! You only need to mount the top cover, those 4 extra parts over your desktop. Just place the Top cover parts on their final position and screw them with four M3x12mm Countersunk screws for the extreme positions and four M3x16mm Countersunk screws for the central positions. Use the last two drawings as a guide to assemble the parts of this last chapter.

And the last thing, place the battery holder. For that, un-screw the two proper screws of the rear axle of the four in the rear platform, put the battery holder in place and screw them again :)

Now with this and some double sided tape and maybe a velcro strap you can mount all the electronics in the car and make your first trys!!!

I'm forgetting a lot of things!!! Like the shock holders!

Print24: Quickly but with quality print the shock holders.

  • If you have long (95-105mm) shocks print this pair for the front axle with 6º Caster and this other pair for the rear axle with 0º Caster.
  • If you have shorter (80-95mm) shocks print this pair for the front axle with 6º Caster and this other pair for the rear axle with 0º Caster.

You will need some extra screws for the steering links, the servo, the motor, the shocks... The shock holders must be mounted in the right position with a M3x12-16 ButtonHead screw. Can you figure out wich hole will be the right one?

About the central dogbones... I just tested the Trooper diff and the SST diff. I use a 80mm from pin to pin dogbone for 145mm front partial wheelbase (should be 82mm) and a 73mm from pin to pin dogbone for 135mm rear partial wheelbase. Maybe something near 91-92mm works for 155 partial wheelbase and 100-101mm for 165mm partial wheelbase but i did not test those.

Hey :) Now you should have a functional RC Monster, more than crawler because of the actual transmission... give it a try but always reading temperature somehow... in the motor and the nearbys! Break and re-print as much plastic parts as you want but take special care of the sourced ones... you are trying to avoid to make an order or have to visit a store with your 3d printed RC car!

Have fun and remember to share your make with us, the same than your experiences with it... let's learn ones from the others :)

I forgot many things and many others can be done to improve this building instructions, including printed parts list, sourced parts list, links to parts in internet shops... Anyway if you find something important missing or some error in this info please tell me and I'll try to correct it as soon as possible :)

I hope you enjoy reading or building this chassis! See you in MyRCCar Group?¿?

MyRCCar 1/10 Monster /Crawler Chassis with Configurable 270 to 330mm Wheelbase
by dlb5
MyRCCar 1/10 Monster / Crawler 1:4 Gearbox
by dlb5
MyRCCar 1/10 MTC Chassis Upgrades
by dlb5
1/10 Chassis crawler CVD gearbox HSP monster monster_truck quanum_vandal_4WD RC_Car
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Please, introduce yourself :)

by dlb5

A reply to this post is mandatory if you want to stay in the group

Please read this post complete to better know each other and to try to form a group of work

I'm not doing a database and i think thingiverse won't do with the data we write up here in the forums. Maybe you are shy as I am. Anyway you know a lot about me: my nick, my city, my language, my interests, my apparently skills, that i'm trying to "make my name" in this world to get a good job, that my "art skills" live in my back...

So YES, I want MyRCCar to be a vehicle to "make my name", as founder and original designer of some of the parts or models. If you take a look, all my "things" are shared as NON-COMMERCIAL. For me this means you can't sell MyRCCar printed parts. You can print them one time or 100 for you or your friends or to have spares but never recieve money in exchange for them.

MyRCCar can be a vehicle to "make my name" but not only for me, i want it to be for you also. So lets imagine you are working on a new robust chassis to build monster trucks. You could ask for some help or opinion to us and also publish it as part of the project and ensure our attention to it. MyRCCar is no more than a keyword, not very reputated nowadays, but I hope it will be much more in the future if you start building your cars and getting fun with them. I sent a photo of the horrible new buggy to my cousin, rc lover, and he is crazy looking for a printer in wallapop now...

Ok, I think is enough about me... what about you?¿? Some ideas:

  • Tell us about your RC Car Knowledge and if you are an expert or know good some type of them.

  • Also it would be fine to know if you have some design skills and can do part of the coming work if the group works.

  • Please tell us if you have some experiece printing, wich is the max. printing volume of your 3D Printer and if you know some designing rules for 3d printing.

  • Finally, those not 3d printing rc car relevant things that will help us know you better, as if you like climbing or painting.
If you just want to be in the group as a viewer just tell us you respect all the personal info from group members and that you are not "spying" for other people or brand.

It sounds like a lot of work to write up all those things if you did not do it for your profile... anyway I like us to know each other so we can know how much "manpower" we have in our hands, and remember this should not be part of the profile that thingiverse makes of us, anyway I don't know if this posts are accesible without joining the group or accesible for SEO robots and so on.

So please, respect the info you get from the others as private and don't share with third parties without consent. The same way, I can't ensure any kind of data here is secure.

I can see part of this "data" in the profile of many of you... anyway if you want to tell us something "extra" things it will be cool too!!!

Awaiting for your answers :)

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by dlb5



(any correction welcome)

  • Scale: The proportion between the real size of a thing and the size of a model or drawing of it. As you probably know, I like 1/10 scale for its simplicity in metric system. 10 meters in real size will be 1 meter in 1/10 scale. A 500mm diameter real wheel will be a 50mm wheel in 1/10 scale.
  • Wheelbase: The distance between front and rear axles.
  • Caster: The rotation of an axle (front or rear) and its suspension system over itself. They vary caster in sourced RCs in many ways, I try to rotate all the related parts certain degrees over the axle center.
  • Camber: Is the inclination of a wheel relative to its normal position.
  • Toe: The convergency or divergency of wheels in an axle. If the alignment of the wheels of an axle converge into a point in the forward direction I think they call this "Toe-In", while if they diverge they call it "Toe-Out". This "deviation" can also be measured in degrees.

If you follow this instructions and the ones in the related publications you should come from this:
OBTS Chassis Parts Un-assembled
OBTS Chassis Parts Un-assembled top
OBTS Chassis Parts Un-assembled weight

To build this:
OBTS Chassis Parts Assembled
The parts in this photos doesn't include the sides of the chassis, so the weight of the printed parts will be bigger.

OBTS Chassis, what's this?¿?

On-Road, Buggy, Truggy, Short-course would be 4 different types of rc cars. As this OBTS Chassis has been my first one, to try to get to the most people possible I tryed to make a configurable chassis wich would allow to build those types of cars, "more or less"... There are many differences between this types, starting from wheelbase, the wide of the car, the size of wheels, the spected speed, the height to the floor...

But options are not only to build different types of rc cars, also to give more chances to build some parts of the car, as the steering system wich can be build with 3 different sizes of bearings. Something similar happens with the normal Buggy / Truggy CVDs, there are various options so you can choose the one is easier or cheaper for you to find.

Ok, but where do I start?¿?

I think an interesting start point is the type of car you want to build and its related wheelbase.

  • If you are thinking in building an On-road car you will need short wheelbases. I think commercial on-road cars are mostly 255mm wheelbase (the smallest one you can make with MyRCCar OBTS Chassis) for drifting or standard cars and a little more for long touring ones. Please anyone who knows about this, correct me, I didn't try the on-road build yet. If you are thinking about making this build contact me first so we comment the possible weak points or to know if it would be necessary to create or modify some parts.
  • If you want to get Off-Road... The Buggy and the Truggy builds are quite the same. As a Truggy would use bigger wheels, it will run faster with same motor and also the height to the floor will be bigger. For this builds I recommend a wheelbase from 270 to 290mm. Remember you can have a MyRCCar Shell, Bumper, Wing and Lights, (a little ugly ones) for the Buggy Build and the Truggy Build I "pre-made". Those are 270mm wheelbase.
  • There is another unexplored type for me, the Short Course Truck one. I think this cars are heavier and powerful than truggys, and also use other kind of shell, another shape. If you know something about this ones, it would be a honnor to complete this info with the ones in your comments!

Now you must know wheelbase will influence the max. size of battery in length and also the length of the motor can. So for example, for a 255mm wheelbase the max. battery length will be 135mm. For a standard 270mm wheelbase it will be 150mm. Also the length of the needed central dogbones for transmission will change with wheelbase and "partial wheelbases"

New dlb's concept: Partial Wheelbase :S The car chassis, mostly in all its structure, is divided in front and rear parts. This is needed to be able to print them in the most common printer bed size, 200x200mm.

Hey! I almost forget about it. I created my Youtube channel to upload all my videos about MyRCCar and some other future projects. Here you have some links for OBTS chassis related videos:


Related Publication -> MyRCCar OBTS Universal Chassis
If you take a look to the first MyRCCar publication, the OBTS main chassis, i shared the parts in "kits", related to this front or rear partial wheelbase. For your chosen wheelbase, choose a front part kit and rear kit wich sumatory is that wheelbase. So for example, for a 270mm wheelbase you could use the 135mm front part and the 135mm rear part. This "simetry" in the partial wheelbases is the best if you want to use the same central dogbones for front and rear transmission.

Now is time to see wich is the biggest front or rear chassis part you can print. The 135mm partial wheelbase bottom parts of the chassis measures 186mm in their longest direction. So a 145mm partial wheelbase bottom part will measure 196mm, and so on. This ones would be the max. size printable in a 200x200mm. If you have an Anet A8 with a 220x220mm bed you could print the 155 and 165 partial wheelbase bottom parts too...

As you can see in the drawings in the OBTS main chassis publication, there are indications for each partial wheelbase, as the desired dogbone length and others. For total wheelbase under 270 you can only do shorter the rear part of chassis. 135mm is the minimum front partial wheelbase wich can fit the servo and steering system correctly.

The publication files are kits of parts for each front or rear partial wheelbase. Each of this kits includes the bottom part (main part), the top cover (Light type) and the sides (Closed type) for that wheelbase.

Let's Start Printing!!!

All you need to know to start is the partial wheelbases you want to use. Once you know it, download the proper Front Kit, Rear Kit, the Battery Towers, the Servo Holder and the Side Links, needed to join the front and rear part of the sides.

separating parts in Meshmixer

Now it's time to separate the parts in the kits. Start with the front part kit. You will need a slicer as Siplify3D or meshmixer to separate them and use them individually. Open the kit in Meshmixer, clic on edit, and then in "separate shells". The Object Browser will bring up and you will see the four parts. Use the eye at the right of each object text line to identify each part. Select one of the parts (objects, text lines) and clic on File->Export and save the individual part stl file with a proper name.

This was the most complex part of building the chassis, separating the parts in meshmixer. :S

I would start printing Front Bottom part and would continue with the Rear Bottom one. If you chose a 135+135mm wheelbase config, then don't print the sides. You have better "one piece per side" options in the buggy or truggy builds. The sides of the 270buggy can be printed in 200x200 bed easily and they are low and light. The sides for the 270truggy are high (as the closed from the kits) but with a little different shape, wich will allow the truggy shell to fit better and deeper. If you want to use the kit sides, then you will need to print the Side Links too. Go on printing the front and rear top cover parts. Remember to rotate 180º the rear bottom and rear top cover to print them over the right surface. You can also rotate them in meshmixer previous to save them as stl.

Printing tips for chassis parts:

I would print them in 0.2 or 0.25 layer height. 2x 0.48mm perimeters for a 0.4mm nozzle, 5 or 4 top and bottom solid layers, and between 15% and 50% infill. I print them im PLA as they don't recieve too much heat, just the part near the motor. I use a negative horizontal expansion of -0.02 to be sure my Anet A8 will print holes in the desired size. I did not break any of this parts printed with similar to the above params.

Printed front bottom chassis part

OK OK, lets go on printing!

The Servo Holder is an easy print, just make sure one time you have printed it that your servo fits good inside it. Use 2x M3x16 countersunk screws to join the servo holder to the chassis.
The battery towers will need maybe 0.1 layer height to be well printed and doing 2 at the same time with good retraction parameters can help printing them at better speed. Use 2 M3x8-10 Countersunk screws to put the towers in the chassis.
And now THE BATTERY HOLDER!!! You need to choose from many versions. Use the indications in the drawings to find yours. You should be able to use typical clips fo this battery holder system.

Now is time to put at least the sides and bottom parts of the chassis together!. Overlap the bottom parts and use countersunk screws to screw the bottom to the sides. Use them to have the parts together as one. You will need the F/R and central diffs to add the top covers, so put them apart by now. The M3 countersunk screws can be 8 or 10mm in length, but i think they can be 16mm if you are using the kit sides or truggy ones.



Related Publication -> MyRCCar OBTS F/R Differential Housing
This housing is designed to use a HSP 02024 metal differential, with it's paired pinion. There are many compatible ones, as the ones that comes in the "Quanum Vandal" I use as source for parts, including screws.

Remember at the begining the "Caster" concept?¿? You will see many cars wich have some caster in the front axle, for example 6º the top part towards the inside of the car is very common, and a little or 0 caster in the rear axle is also common. I have tried 6º in the front and 0º and -3º in the rear axle. I provided many more options but i did not try them. I'm sure you can find a lot of info about caster, camber and toe, i always make a mess with the names but concepts are there.

Some printed parts

First of all you will need the bottom and top parts of the F/R diff. housings. There are two different bottom parts. The interesting one is the 5104 one, to use 5x10x4mm bearings to hold the pinion of the differential in position. Print one each time so if the bearings don't fit you haven't wasted 2x plastic. You will need to add supports to print the bottom diff parts. I hope you know how to add them in your slicer. To join the bottom and top part you will need one M3 nut and M3x8-10 countersunk screw.

IMPORTANT: Each time you print a part, you should test if the printed features are the desired ones. I mean size of holes, specially for the bearings, wich can be hard to fit if you did not use negative horizontal expansion as i always do. So print one and if everything is ok, then the copies.

Now you should have a bottom and a top part of FR diff. Lets imagine is the front one and you want to use 6º caster as i do. Then you must print the related 6º Lower Arm Supports (LAS_6C) and Butterfly Support (BS_6C). If I remember correctly, all this caster parts are RTP (are in a Ready To Print position).

Do the same to have your rear differential housing, but this time use the LAS_0C or LAS_3C and the BS0C or BS-3C, for 0º or -3º rear caster.

rear frdiff parts printed

I'm quite sure you can't wait more to put those housings on the main chassis!!! Use M3 coutersunk screws with 12-14mm length. You will need 4 for each diff housing. But i recommend you before doing this, to put the part of the LAS that goes in the inner side of the diff housing. Use M3x16 Courtersunk to join LAS parts to the diff. housings. You will need 8 screws for that.

You can also now screw the Butterfly Supports to their diff. housings. Use 8x M3x10 Countersunk screws for this.

There are other parts in this F/R Diff housing publication, the 3d printed pinion for the differential (you need 5mm piano wire and rotary tool for this) and 3d printed vases for this pinions, but if you are expecting something "hobby level", you need to use sourced metal pinions and vases. They are cheap or come in the kit. In a Quanum vandal kit you have two pinions but must cut the rear one with rotary tool (extra long axle). Also it only includes 1 useful vase, so you will need to source another one.


And now lets go for the Central Differential Housing, you'll find some options here but it will be quick compared to previous chapters.


Related Publication -> MyRCCar OBTS Central Differential Housing
By now we have the universal chassis and the F/R Diff. Housings. You should have tested the 02024 diffs and their pinions fit good in the housings. With the center diff. housing you will be able to test if your sourced center diff fits well and also to test the central transmission, using the proper dogbones for your chosen partial wheelbases.

You have two posibilities for the center diff. housing. You can place it centered in the chassis or displaced to the right side to allow bigger batteries in the left side. This is the option you should choose, as there is no other transmission designed by now for the centered position.

The center diff. housing will allow you to use 2 different 1/8 center diffs, the SST and the Trooper one. Avoid the center diff adaptors for 02024 if you want the car to be reliable. So if you are going to use one of the 1/8 center diffs, go back to the Main Chassis publication, look for the drawings of your chosen partial wheelbases and look for the length of your needed center dogbones for a 1/8 "deviated" center diff.

printed center differential1
printed center differential2
printed center differential3

This housing consists of a bottom part, a cover and two "adaptors" to use the differential you chose. Try to print this parts with a bigger infill, maybe 50%. The rest of the params would be the same for me than the previous ones i told you.

One time you have it printed, you can put it on chassis and screw it from the bottom with 5x M3x30 Countersunk screws. They can be shorter but this way (30mm) they contribute to strength up the chassis structure.

Central Dogbones

To put the central dogbones in place you can put the adaptors in the diff. align them over their final place, insert the dogbones heads in the F/R diffs vases and then go down with the diff into its housing while you make the other heads of the dogbones enter in center diff vases.

If your chosen central dogbones are too short, you can use some kind of "soft plastic or silicone" tube to cut near 1mm sections to put inside the related vases so the short dogbone can't move to the end of a vase and get out of place in the other side... I think Lijw, one of the makers, has had problems with this "addons", destroying them after some use. That's why you have to find the soft but durable material to put in there.

Ok, let's suppose you found the right ones and they fit well. (I think that was the case for Botyoyo, the first MyRCCar maker). Please Yuran! Tell us your partial wheelbase and chosen dogbones (reference or something).

Mounting the motor

Now it's time to put the motor in place!!! If you have not screwed the central housing to the chassis you will probably be able to put the motor and its screws easier. Use some M3 washers to secure the motor better in its final place. Very probably, if your motor gets hot, it will transmit its heat to the screws and those to their zone, so the PLA of the housing near the motor zone can get some heat too... that can make the PLA "melt" a little and then the screws of the motor can get a little loose. I'm quite sure you will have some problems with this during some time because the motor pinion will separate from the diff's spur due to one of the screws of the motor to get a little loose.

A last important thing about this is the distance between the motor pinion and the diff's spur. Remember they can not be too far but also too near will be a bad thing. I put them very near and screw very hard one of the 2 motor screws. Then I separate it very very little, so i can hear there is some play when i move the spur of the diff or the pinion. That's when I screw strongly the second motor screw.

And that's it! If you reached this point is time to put the Top Cover to give the car chassis its final strength and maybe do your first transmission tests! You must be sure the center dogbones don't get out of their places. For this you will need 8x M3x16 Countersunk screws. When you are screwing the ones of the F/R diffs, remember that the holes of the bottom and top FR diff. parts are "screwing holes", not "passing holes", so use one of your hands to get both parts and the top cover firmly together while you screw those ones.


Now you can put all the electronics more or less in place, so you can test the transmission and also turn the servo. I'm sure you want it to look as an RC car as soon as posible so you will probably do it:)


Related Publication -> MyRCCar OBTS Steering System
This chapter will be also easy. The steering system consists in two pivots and two "steering towers" over them. Both towers are linked by the steering plate, so if the one with the servo arm rotates, the other will do the same way.

So just 5 parts but... One more time you have to choose. I made the system for 3 different bearing sizes. I recommend you to use 5x10x4 if those are easy to find ones for you. You will need 4. If you can get for the same price 6x12x4 bearings, they will also do the job, maybe better.

When you have chosen your desired bearing size, you can print the related parts named with the proper bearing number, 5104 or 6124.

The towers will need supports to be printed. Take a look to their inside to position them correctly. It will be important too the "negative horizontal expansion" for this towers and pivots, as they have to fit well with the bearings.

Steering System Printed Parts1
Steering System Printed Parts2
Steering System Printed Parts3

When you have the 5 parts printed, start introducing the bearings in the towers and then the towers into the pivots. You could also screw the plate to one of the towers.

To screw the towers on their place you will need 4x M3x8-10 countersunk screws. if you have the rest of the chassis in one piece, you will have to screw the upper and lower screws of a tower the same time. You will probably need some pliers to hold the pivot base while you screw. After puting towers in place, remember to screw the second plate screw.

So that's all by now about the steering system! We will have to link the towers to the front steering blocks and also to the servo. For that i designed some "balljoint" steering pins wich are also valid for the servo link. If you want to use this system to link them, I use 4.7mm balljoints with M3Screws. If you buy a Vandal Kit as i did you will be able to use its steering pins and probably the servo link instead of this 3d printed balljoint steering pins.



Related Publication -> MyRCCar OBTS Suspension System
Ok, you are a few steps from being able to do your first run!
This last chapter will be about the suspension arms, the C-hubs, the steering blocks and the rear hubs. Al this parts but the front C-Hubs will be dependent of the CVD you want to use.

So one more time, you have to choose between a lot of options! The cheapest option for me is adquiring the CVDs as part of a car kit.
As i know the "Quanum Vandal Kit", i did parts to use its CVDs, rear wheelvases and dogbones.
As i had the OpenRC Truggy recommended and expensive Reely CVDs, i also did the parts to use them.
As HSP CVDs are some of the cheapest ones and easy to find, i made various versions of parts for various HSP CVDs. This include 102015 and 122015 for short arms, 106015 and 166015 for normal long arms (715 version) and 108015 and 188015 for extra long arms (769 version)

I remember you again that the short arms with short HSP CVDs has not been tested already. So if you want to try those, remember to contact me to talk about possible modifications, including butterflys and their supports to make a less high chassis to acommodate better the normal car bodies.

Ok then! If you know what CVDs are you going to use, then you can start printing. As the four arms will be mostly the same, you must print first one copy and test it completely with your CVD.

Lower Arms Pair printed1
Lower Arms Pair printed2

Let's start printing the front axle suspension system. Print a Lower arm. This one will require supports but they have been incorporated in the model. If you can, separate shells in your slicer and use the provided support in a separate printing process so you can print it for example with 2 or 3 top/bottom solid layers, 1 perimeter and 0 infill. Fo the arm I would use 50% infill or solid and the first parameters i told you about, 0.2 or 0.25 layer height, 2x0.48mm perims... etc.

Ok you should now have one Lower arm. Let's go printing a front C-Hub and its simetrical. The arm will be swappable for any wheel, but front C-hubs are simetrical. Use the right one for the arm you want to build up.

Front C-Hubs Pair printed

You will need 3mm piano wire to cut out 4x 56mm long pieces. Insert one of this 3x56mm pins in the long hole of the arm.

You will also need to cut 4x 33mm long pins from 3mm piano wire to link the front C-Hubs or rear FixedHubs to the arms. Maybe in near future i apply to this arms the same "pin locking system" I used in the MTC Chassis arms. You will probably need to use a X-acto knife or cutter to remove part of the plastic in the interior of the place for chubs in the lower arms to let them enter better in place. If it initially gets too tight it will probably get more freedom soon.

Now it's time to put the lower arm with the front C-hub in place. For that, insert the rear part of the 3x56mm pin (already in the lower arm) in the Lower Arm Support hole you screwed to the diff. housing before. Then use the other "LAS" and screw it (remember, 2x16mm countersunk) to the diff. housing.

If you are building the front suspension arms, you will need to print two Front Steering Blocks, the correct type for your CVDs, the same way you will have to print 2 simetrical rear fixed C-hubs of the correct type for the rear axle. I explain next the types of steering blocks and rear fixed c-hubs:

  • Type A: For Quanum Vandal CVDs
  • Type B: For HSP 122015, 166015 and 188015
  • Type C: For HSP 102015, 106015 and 108015
  • Type D: For OpenRC Truggy Reely CVDs
  • Type X: For Vandal rear dogbones and wheel vases

Types A, D and X must be used with 715 arms. 122015 and 102015 with 475 arms. 108015 and 188015 with 769 arms.

Now that you have the front steering blocks printed, put the bearings into them and place one into the front C-hub. To do this, enter the steering block near its final position and then rotate it until holes in the Chub and steering block are aligned. Use 2x M3x14-16mm to secure the steering block in place. This system needs to be improved but it works quite well by now.

Now would be the moment to put one of those CVDs in its place, entering the screw extreme through the bearings of the steering block. Then rotate the C-hub to its final position while you align the other extreme of the CVD to enter into the diff. vase.

Using Sourced Upper Arms

Sourced Parts from a Quanum Vandal Kit
If you bought a car in kit, as I did because I think is the cheapest way, you will also have the upper suspension arms, wich can be adjustable as mine are. If this is your case, use them, put them in place and find the proper length adjusting it to your desired camber.

Using Printed Upper Arms

If you don't have them you can print the proper version for your lower arms.
This can be a little tricky, as you can choose for various lengths. This is because the "camber" of the wheel can be adjusted using one or other length for the upper arms. To have 0º camber, use the UAS_XXX with the same number as your lower arms. You can choose a little longer or shorter ones to alter the camber from 0º.

For each of the upper arms, you will need to print some little supports, wich are found in this publication. Use proper length M3 screws to secure the upper arms over their supports and in their place.

Forgot the Butterflies!!!

OMG!!! You don't have Butterflys!!! Those should be an easy print... but be sure to print them strong. Also, there is a "stronger" version of the butterfly, i suggest you to use this one. You must secure each butterfly in its butterfly holder with two or four M3x16-20mm sockethead or roundhead screws and also use M3 nuts, better if self locking in the back of the butterfly holder

If you tested all the printed parts of an arm to fit well and to acommodate correctly your CVD, then is time to build up the other arms!

Here you have some more photos of the OBTS chassis assembled:


As you can see in all this photos I'm using sourced Upper Arms, Steering Links and Servo Link. If you need the Steering and Servo Links for 4.7mm BallJoints you can find the necessary parts in this publication -> MyRCCar Adjustable Steering pins, Suspension Uplinks and Servo Arm

Complete Sourced Parts List


  • 3650 or bigger 1/10 Motor (Recommended 3000KV-4000KV brushless)
  • Electronic Speed Controller (ESC, totally related to the motor you choose, 60A-80A Brushless ESC recommended)
  • 2 Channel Radio+Reciever (If you can find 3CH model for less than 5 €/$ more i would buy 3CH)
  • Standard Size Steering Servo (A 8Kg-12Kg servo with less than 41x21mm "body" size
  • 2S 3000mAh to 5000mAh
  • Connectors could be needed to be soldered in function of the selected previous components, as banana "plugs" for motor wires or battery ones

The cheapest RTR (Ready To Run) rc car kits you can find will probably include a brushed motor and esc, limited torque non metal gearings servo, a very ugly Radio+reciever and a ni-mh battery around 2000mAh with its charger. This can be a very good deal if you are not sure if this "3d printed hobby" will be for you. Anyway you could find other RTR or ARR (Almost Ready to Run) kits wich could have some of this parts and also better components, as the Quanum Vandal ARR kit, a very interesting one for me as it has 1/10 brushless motor with 50A ESC and a standard servo for little more than 36€ respect to the KIT version with no electronics. Remember you need to add a battery+charger and Radio+Reciever to this ARR kit.

If you can afford a little more than the minimum requirements, this is the "sourced parts" chapter I would invest that little extra. I'm sure you will be able to use this same components in many other 1/10 rc car projects if you finally don't like this one.

Mechanical Hardware:

  • 2x HSP 02024 differentials (Lots of compatible ones with exact same shape and teeth, like the ones in the Vandal)
  • 2x HSP 02030 pinions (same as differentials, many compatible, the Vandal has 1 compatible and you must cut the other)
  • 2x 1/10 universal vase (You have one in a Vandal kit, but must source another one)
  • Center differential (by now it is known compatible with 1/8 SST09304 and Trooper differentials, the first one did not include the bearings)
  • Motor pinion (Study your desired gearing as this is the only gear you can choose, use metal one for best performance or print one)
  • 2x Desired length central transmission Dogbones
  • 4x Needed Length Shocks (The Vandal includes aprox. 2x95mm shocks and 2x105mm shocks)
  • 4x Desired style wheels (The ones in a Vandal are of course buggy ones)
  • 12x 5x10x4 bearings (8x for wheels and 4x for F/R diff pinions, they are included in a kit)
  • 4x 6x12x4 bearings (for steering towers, you can also choose 5x10x4 ones
  • 4x 3x56mm pins (I cut them from 3mm piano wire)
  • 4x 3x33mm pins (i cut them too)
  • 4x 2x9.8mm pins (for the wheels if your CVDs need them)
  • 4x 12mm Hex (You can print them too or use the very bad plastic ones included in a Vandal kit)
  • 6x 4.7mm balljoints with M3 screw (You will need this ones if you did not get a kit with useful steering links and servo link)
  • Typical Clips (For battery Holder and maybe shell holders, 4 in a Vandal kit)
  • 4x M4 Self-Locking Nuts (for wheels, included in Vandal kit)
  • 8x or more M3 Self-Loking Nuts
  • A few things I don't remember now :P (I hope not!)
  • A lot of M3 screws of different kinds and lengths

Oh my RC god!!! That's a really big bunch of things... Wasn't this car 3d printed?¿?¿? :S
If you look for each thing individually and make the sumatory of prices... Also maybe you won't find all of them from same provider...

Many of this mechanical parts will be the same or very similar in many 1/10 cars, but I'm sure now you know than many many of them can be found in a Quanum Vandal Kit for about 60€. Of course I have no relation to the sellers more than I'm one more buyer. I was so sad when i started using this parts as then in Feb2018 Vandal was out of stock and "discontinued"... But last time puting an order with my cousin a few days ago there were more than 100 in stock in EU and i think a lot in UK warehouse. Maybe they knew about my project, but i really doubt it :)

If you know about any other car kit with interesting prices and good stocks please let us now!

Other Useful Sourced Things

  • 3mm piano wire (I mentioned this before but remember to pick this one)
  • Lights! (I used 2 different kits, both of them with 3mm and 5mm leds)
  • Motor Fan with Dissipator for 1/10 (I bought mine also in HK)
  • Little Allen Tools (1.5, 2 and 2.5 ones at least)
  • Double Sided Tape (10mm wide is enough for me)
  • IR Thermometer (Ultra-useful to avoid knowing about temp issues when is too late)
  • Bearing Fitting/Removal Tool (will help you treat your bearings much better)
  • Shock Silicone Oil (For those who want a little more of tunning)
  • Shrinking tube (Maybe you must "isolate" some connections)

Other Useful Tools

  • Rotary tool with cutting disc (you will need it to cut 3mm piano wire)
  • 3d printer with 200x200mm bed (wow, great requirement :S)
  • Air compressor (To clean up the car after dirty runs)


You know that, more than all previously mentioned publications there are at least 2 more, one for a Buggy Build and other for a Truggy build. Of course, they are mostly the same. Same Bumper, Wing and lights can be used in both builds, so the only thing changing will be the wheels, the "sides" of the chassis and Shell.

To be able to use this shells you need to build a 135+135 wheelbase car. The shells are designed to be printed in "Vase mode". They have 1mm thickness so 2x0.48mm perimeters should do the work. In this vertical position the are 220mm long so be sure you can print them with your printer. Anet A8 can do it as it can print more than 220mm in height. With 135+135 config you will also be able to use the provided buggy and truggy chassis sides on the publications

If you did not use the 135+135 wheelbase config, then you must adapt this shells to your desired length. You could give it a try just "deforming" the object in the long axle. So you could have a 240mm length shell scaling just the Z axis to 109%. You could also make the smallest 205mm version (for 255 wheelbase) scaling just Z axis to 93%. You can use the chassis sides provided in the kits of the chassis publication but only for the Truggy Shell. Anyway you could also scale the shell in the wide direction something like 16/15 to have a 10mm wider shell wich will help it to be fitted better.

The "pre-made" sides created for the buggy and truggy builds (135+135) can be fitted into 200x200 bed being one part per side. Other bigger ones won't fit easyly, that's why I created the F/R splitted parts. Anyway you want continuity in the side structure and that's why the side-link is needed. If you would like to have other length "one part per side" chassis sides please tell me about it or try modifying existing ones, the stl file, in a program you can move vertex or edges. I think Blender is a free one where you could try that.


If you have read carefully everything you will know your bumper and wind will last a lot more (than one simple hit) if you print their holders in TPU. I know many of you are "trending" to CR-10 and the like printers, wich use to be bowden. I know TPU and bowden are not a good combination.

The rigidity and flexibility but more than all, its form preservatring capabilities make this material very versatile for me. I printed the mentioned holders in TPU and they really do the work, so...


  • I started in all of this as a Hobby, as a consecuence of wanting different parts than the ones i could find from others when i was playing with the OpenRC Truggy Project.
  • I have shared all this things, wich should allow you to make dozens of different cars for free.
  • I have researched for good enough but cheap Sourced Parts so everyone can enter into this 3d printing rc car hobby
  • I actually have a 3d printer wich is the "warehouse" for many of the parts of my 3 different models of rc cars
  • All parts and publications are really "a work in progress" but they will always be, as MyRCCar should evolve
  • I'm not responsable of the time or money you put into this or about if things didn't go as you expected
  • I want your help to get a good job, I hope somehow related with design and 3d printing.

How can you help me? Giving a try to a MyRCCar project would be a good thing, and if you like it, uploading a make and giving likes to the related publications you like. The most important thing you can do is give atributtion, wich for me means explaining people who you show your car to that is a MyRCCar project, and if they are interested maybe facilitating them a way to get into the project, as letting them know about "thingiverse" and/or "dlb5".

What I have done by now is quite enough for me. I don't specially plan to do more and more chassis or updates. I think this project needs some time to see if it's really interesting for the people. If it is, I would like my designs to turn into the seed for up-coming MyRCCar projects and parts. I could also try to organize all my life around this "keyword" and try to get some direct economic benefit selling models or parts, even making personalized bodies for you or others at a good price. This is not my intention, and if you respect my initial philosophy, it should not be yours.

But more than that, how can I feel part of the MyRCCar community, how can I contribute?

  • One easy thing you can do is create videos of the build sequence or reviews of your build. Also "in action" videos will be extra well welcomed, that's the best way for us to know what could we expect

  • You can modify most of the parts and publish remixes of them (look each license of each thing to know about your posibilities for those parts). Try to do not duplicate already done things. Your remixes (they are if you use the original model as a source) must open new posibilities or solve found problems.

  • If you make your part from the ground, even if it is to replace an existing part to allow something new, I would not consider this a remix. It's your creation and I think you could upload as it. This is the most desirable contribution you can do.

  • So in the end, remixes or new things, you can use MyRCCar keyword if it's compatible or designed for MyRCCar existing projects.

Now, the nearest person you will find who have built a MyRCCar will be at 10.000KM or maybe more. But I dream one day you will find somebody to make a race! Colors are good to distinguish the cars, but more are the different bodies! So if you want to contribute, making compatible bodies and shells would be a very good thing too.

Here you have some other ideas of "things" you can design to contribute to MyRCCar:

  • Rear solid axle, as the crawler ones, for MTC Chassis
  • Variable length transmissions (for MTC Chassis with Rear solid axle)
  • Set of molds for 1/10 On-Road, Buggy, Truggy, SCT, Monster and Crawler wheels. Also develope the method and find the proper A+B resine
  • Mod1 Spur and axle for a "straight" centered transmission (OBTS Chassis)
  • Servo saver for both chassis
  • Improved steering system
  • 2 speed gearbox (remixing ideas in both my gearbox and center diff locking system can be a way)
  • F/R diff. locking system
  • New OBTS front butterfly holder for better fitting sedane and touring bodies
  • A collection of "3d printable Stickers" from brands, numbers or fun things to put over the car bodies
  • Create a "plates" customizer for your country, so you can put "real-scaled" ones on your builds
  • F/R diff housing for most common 1/8 F/R diff and pinion, compatible with both chassis or one of them
  • Suspension system compatible with 1/8 technology for F/R 1/8 diff housing, wich would include bigger CVDs and bearings

I continue my dream being the designer of the 15% of the MyRCCar things. If you (the community) convert all this previous ideas and a few more into free shared things, then the real idea behind all this, empowering final user, you, will success!!!

I have written a lot here in thingiverse. My english is poor and each time I review less my writing than the previous one. I want to apologyze if I'm a little "heavy" or "intense". I don't want to let anything "en el tintero".

I have spent a little time writing up this building instructions and they are incomplete. I hope you find them useful anyway and like them!



MyRCCar Universal Chassis with Light Top and Closed Sides
by dlb5
MyRCCar F/R Differential Housing for HSP 02024 Diff. with adjustable caster
by dlb5
MyRCCar Central Differential Housing for HSP02024 Diff conversion, SST09304 and other 1/8 diffs.
by dlb5
MyRCCar Steering System for three different bearings: 5x8x4, 5x10x4 and 6x12x4
by dlb5
MyRCCar Suspension System for various CVDs including C-Hubs, 4 types of Steering Blocks and 3 different lower and upper arms
by dlb5
MyRCCar Adjustable Steering pins, Suspension Uplinks and Servo Arm
by dlb5
1/10 1/8 buggy car chassis CVD HSP MyRCCar OBTS_Chassis On-road
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MyRCCar MTC Gearbox Cover

by BotYoyo

This is a screw on hard case version of the gearbox cover. It keep the exposed gears away from damages of rocks, dirt, sand, grass, etc.

It shares screws and hex nut with center platform. So you don't need any extra hardware. :D

It could fit 1:2,1:3 and 1:4 gear ratios. You could print in the same color of gearbox body to "hide" the gears. Or like me, print in transparent PLA to present the beautiful gears.


MyRCCar MTC Gearbox Cover
by BotYoyo
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