Just post pictures of what breaks here so we can keep track of weak spots.
First I thought the pinion was stripping but it appeared to be the rear diff that expanded until the gears skipped
To talk about future changes to the initial parts, the sourced parts used by now and we could use in the future. Everything about 1/10 parts should be discused here.
Hi everyone, one quick topic to share with you my RC dakar truck project.
It's printed out of ABS (chassis), PLA (body parts), HIPS (Bottom covers) and Colorfabb carbon fiber filament for the arms.
This chassis is amazing to print and to assemble, Thank you so much dlb5 and everyone adding upgrades!
The only issue I have is that the width is too much to look like a real 1/14th scale truck with the wheels being out of the body. Anyway, this will not weaken my ability to BASH LIKE CRAZY!!! :-D I've got a good feeling that this truck will be very able on offroad terrains!
I will make my own rigid axles in a future development to go out making some rock crawling.
Now I'm waiting for my differentials. I will post again as soon as I have installed them. Cheers!
Personally, the funniest MyRCCar config for me is the MTC Chassis Independent Suspension Version in high speed mode.
But I recognize I run out of torque in some slow speed situations, which also makes the motor get hotter.
So I can go slow-mo with the gearbox with a lot of torque or run high speed whitout it, but I want both things and change between them just with a button in my Radio.
By now, I just imagine a sliding axle with 2 different gears which would enter in contact with other 2 gears, but not simultaneously. I could design something like this but I think there is a problem:
If I change speed while running, with both motor and center diff spinning at high revs, I think the side of the gear teeth which will enter in contact after changing speed could get damaged.
I had to do something similar with my motorbike going back home one time I had an accident and broke the clutch stub. I had to find the best revolutions to change the gear and it was kind of tricky!!! "Great experience!"
So I normally would give this idea a try and it could probably work better or worse and for a while. But this time I ask you for Ideas and Help so maybe we can have something more interesting soon!
So, what do you say?¿? Interesting path for developement?¿?
Just notice a weak spot on the lower arm you could improve. 2 days ago, my car flew out from a ramp and hit the ground hardly from at least 1 meter high. Two lower arms were broken on the same spot. One upper arm broken as well but that is expected because it is not design to take strong impact. However, all other parts are solid like a rock! I just went home and print 3 broken parts and my car is running again now! Thanks for the great design.
I have already made and tested a new shell... i hope less ugly this time... and also some 5 and 3 mm led lights holders to be mounted in the front and rear diff housings. The cover front side of the led bar can be easily redesigned to fit the number of leds needed and also to modify the aspect of the car.
The new shell can be mounted with the chassis high closed sides and the general height of the car will be a little tall than the previous shell. Now with the truggy wheels the behabour of the car is awesome compared to the same chassis with the FJ cruiser.
I hope you like it... a few days and i will publish it
I wanted to print the Pick Up Body for the MTC chassis. However, i would like to print it using a 0.8 mm nozzle instead of 0.4mm (that is the most common used). However, I had some problems because some parts are less than 1mm and the slicer software (cura in my case) do not recognise such small wall thickness for 0.8 mm nozzle. The main reason to print it with 0.8 mm is because the printing time is highly reduced (in my case from 16 hours with 0.4mm to 4-5 hours using 0.8mm). This last information is for one of the parts, not for the complete model.
As you can see, the time critically depends on the nozzle diameter and the final quality obtained is not too bad compared with 0.4mm because the model is big enought to hide the layers.
¿Has anybody had the same problem as me?
I found two different solutions: The first one is to modify the stl model using Blender and increase the wall thickness in the critical areas. However I'm not expert using Blender and I don't know how much time could it cost me. The second one is to divide the model in smaller parts and print them with 0.4 mm. It will take me more printing time but as the parts would be small I could print each part in less thant 5-6 hours. The reason why I want to reduce printing times in each part is because, in my opinion, is a better strategy in case if you come up with some problem and you have to discart the print.
Any advice or suggestion?
Thank you in advance!! =D