Complete Shopping List to build a MyRCCar

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All the MyRCCar project are around the same sourced parts. We could consider they are common 1/10 parts and you can source them from different brands and shops.

This list could be helpful for you to consider every little thing you have to buy, how many orders to how many shops you have to do, the shipping costs etc.

As I live in Spain, I will choose some shops convenient for me. I hope some of you can share other lists with other shops more convenient for other zones of the planet :)

Hey! Many examples here, but you won't need all of this things to make a MyRCCar. Think carefully if you need each of them.

Electronic Parts:

Now other "mechanical" parts:

Car in kit to make OBTS buggy/truggy or MTC chassis HK Quanum Vandal Kit ; HK Vandal ARR version

I bought most of this things in different orders, wich usually needed 7 days to reach my house from the EU warehouse for 0€ shipping costs.

could someone tell me wich Dogbone size i need to get with 270mm Wb ? thank you

Thanks one more time Francis for the time and effort you put in this projects, but more than all for trying to help others with your answers, advices, tests, suggestions and investigations!

You are a crack!

Anyway i felt from some of your comments maybe you are not happy at all with the project, I think maybe it deceptioned you a little... If this is true, please tell us what you expected and what you finally found...

Also check this:

nice marketing job :-)

Wow I saw it weeks ago, and it's a really good example of design and also marketing of course. The same way it's cheap and complicated, maybe also delicated if you bash with it as you did with MTC ;)

clearly not a basher at that speed :-)

@dlb5 it's certainly not that I'm not happy! I want to thank you a lot for designing these cars. It has been winter time and prints break even faster in the cold so have not been driving my car for a while.

In general I start to have doubts about the usability of 3d printed rc cars for bashing. The truck body front/back for the MTC was almost completely destroyed by a rather light crash. I kept the center part and reprinted front and rear in 95A TPU. Then I had to replace so many parts because they broke that I am a bit tired of it. Every time I take the car out it breaks, I know it's common in the hobby to have to replace parts but my bought cars at least last a few runs before they break. Currently the steering hub stays the main problem, it cracks on a drop / break during turning. Tried different materials including nylon but nothing helps. Thought of tweaking the part but have not found the time to do so. Also I now have bent axles, probably because of the wheel extenders I had to use.

Then specifically for the MyRCCar ecosystem things are very complicated with all the options/sizes. The build took a long time as along the way I had to find parts that fitted. I prefer the RC Buggy V1/2 https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:3320629 because there things are much simpler. No choices to make, a clear shopping list and you are off. But of course it's less complicated with the 2WD. (and the car also has issues, had a melted gearbox and the 3s is causing a lot of stress on plastic parts)

So don't take this as you not doing a good job! It's amazing that you came up with all this stuff and I hope you can use these skills in your day job!

Some more thoughts I have on the 3D printing world is that this should all be true open source. A stl is a deliverable, not the source. Tweaking parts would be much simpler if everybody was able to work with the source files. Add version history on top of that + github like user interaction and the ecosystem will thrive even more.

Maybe I'm just a bit negative by nature :-)

3D Printed RC Buggy: Version 2 (RWD)

I remember when I started into 3d printed RC cars with Noree's truggy the disclaimers in his videos, something like "not intended for real bashing"... I printed the truggy and then I started realize the disclaimer was quite true... but I was the culprit mostly because my prints were not good enough and my building skills just recently started to exist... I blamed the 3d printed gears axles and cups so I created mods for using sourced transmission parts, as others already did.

I understand you destroyed most of the parts in different crashes or "semi-normal" situations while "real bashing", which includes hitting unspected things and rolling over... I think you started a thread about broken parts... maybe I did not payed you enough attention and that's why you did not post more breaks... but it is a really interesting thing, in fact, is the way we could improve the actual parts.

So please, if you have time and patience, show and talk us about each break which you think could be improved by design in that thread.

I like a lot your description of MyRCCar projects as an ecosystem! That's the real idea under it! For my likes, it's in the firsts steps of its evolution, let's call it "the base", but I recognize you it will need from other designers to evolve to next steps.

I also consider STLs as renders of 3d models. Just a bunch of trinagles in space forming enclosed volumes. But this is many times enough to be able to import to your Cad or 3D program to measure or make some simple mods, like widening some part 10mm. In the other hand, I confess my production sw is out of date. I hope some day I can re-order all the stuff and share it in a real open-source way as you suggest. I'm affraid of loosing control that way, but it's of course the best way to make it bigger.

I'm actually working in something like "MyRCCar Kids"... a version of the OBTS chassis simplyfied with less screws, compact and closed central body with the 3d printed central transmission and spur near the back, as the vandal or many other 1/10 simple RCs. You should be able to "plug" the front and rear axles into the main central body in an easy way...

But more important would be the ressistance... I was thinking about TPU shell as body, something light, more than TPB front and center but more or less as the rear part, 2mm shell. The same way I was thinking about including some kind of servo saver, which I think could be the culprit for some of your "steering hub" breaks also made using TPU somehow. But more important I was thinking about using a TPU parts to hold the front lower arms, so if you have a crash over a wheel, those parts should elongate and absorb part of the hit...

As you are the actual nº1 ambassador of MyRCCar I'm really interested about if you think this new "Kids path" is a good one to incorporate to the "ecosystem"...

One more time, thanks for all the time and money you put into the ecosystem ;) and for sharing it with us!

I'm not sure I'm the n1 ambassador, only printed the monster truck version for now as that was specifically what I was looking for and I don't think there's good alternatives. I'm not so much into crawling. Waiting for the new vandal drive shafts to arrive as the current ones I have are bent.

Sturdy kids model sounds great!

This is what I would go for:

  • big bumpers :-)
  • no options (let the community come up with improvements)
  • single wheelbase
  • only a few kinds of screws
  • standard wheels/tires 12hex 1/10 or 1/8?
  • sourced parts that are easy to find, even if you stick to EU-only stores
  • standard hardcase or shorty battery
  • easy to work on: flat base, one layer, easy access to electronics/engine, ...

total package that just works perfectly by default

another discovery today: https://www.facebook.com/groups/1655036618068474/ You might ask that question there?

Your answer is really complete! I will have your list in mind when i continue with it... but i can't ensure you about options ;)

Hi there!

I could not find a known reference for the needed dogbones for 135mm partial wheelbase. Instead, I used the Vandal central transmission dogbone in two halfs. You would need to do 3mm holes and insert 3mm pins, but you can also use the centered position for the center differential housing and that way you can use my 3d printed straight printed transmission.

If you want to search the right dogbone yourself you can use the drawings in the OBTS instructions publication or in the OBTS universal chassis publication, I hope that helps

I would suggest shocks of size 85mm, switched to those instead of the vandal ones (100mm) and the suspension is much better now. Dogbones no longer touch the corners of the cups. Steering is better aligned. More travel distance. And I can adjust the shocks now because the springs are less wide.
Also those vandal shocks are fragile, already had 2 with a bent shaft.

I'm seeing throttle delays when starting from standstill using that brushless ESC (HOBBYKING® ™ X-CAR 60A BRUSHLESS CAR ESC (SENSORED/SENSORLESS)). Anybody else experiencing the same thing?

Hey Francis! Reading the ESC comments i found one talking about the firmware of the esc... is from Rafael titled "Godd." He says this:

"The first I run fanless on a SCX10 with a sensored turnigy 1855kV motor and 2s. Runs great, with lots of low speed torque control. When using the HW 3.0 firmware the top speed is way greater, but there is a delay going foward to backward. So, using HW V1.10_090323a_m. With this firmware the motor whines a little, but runs cool and strong."

So maybe you can tune it up with the USB programmer. I bought it. If you want, I can try to reproduce the conditions to test if I have the same delay. I tryed to program it just once and I think I didn't change anything so I will try again soon.

It was cheaper when I bought it and I listed it because the sensorless/sensored feature. I'm sorry if this is causing you great problems :(

Hehe, a bit delay is not a "great problem" but indeed I might order that programmer to tweak settings. Just wanted to know if anybody else experienced the same issue.

My cousin is finishing his "black ninja" MTC Chassis ISVersion... If the competition starts, (between us) I'm sure I will find that delay annoying if I have it too... I will tell you soon I hope! I can't wait more to race with some very similar setup MTC!

What about your races?¿? Please, update us soon with a video racing against that traxxas boy or something like that! I really want to see it :)

Just found out that brushless motor has a 5mm shaft so the 3.175mm pinion does not fit.
Luckily you already came up with this to temporarily help me out: https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:2764094

These would probably work

RC Car Motor Pinion Generator / Customizer. Mod1, 32p, 48p, with hole for M3 or M4 screw grub, D-shape or key MyRCCar compatible
by dlb5

Hi there Francis!

Of course, that exact motor, and maybe other which could also be used in 1/8 use to have 5mm shaft. I bought 4 motors, 3 of them brushless, and that was the only one with 5mm shaft.

The hard thing is to find Mod1 Pinions with 3.17 mm shaft. That's why I listed that pinion. I consider the 5mm hole ones easy to find, even locally.

So have you finally decided the whole setup?¿? We can calculate your top speed if you want :)

i have the esc/motor from on the shopping list, and a printed pinion but it broke on first drive after 2 minutes so will look to order a metal one or wait until I can properly print nylon...

OMG what a dissaster!

You probably read my advices about pinion/diff distance and how to find the final position to fix the motor to the gearbox... Anyway I try to resume why I think this can happen, more than just because of the material:

  • Very near pinion/diff with no gap will heat the pinion up and melt it.
  • So much loose pinion/diff with quite gap and only the tip of the teeth are used, deforming the pinion
  • If so much accel or torque something heats the motor up, the heat is transmitted to pinion through the shaft.
  • If motor heats up, the PLA from motor screws zone can get softer and the screws get loose. This could head into case 1 or 2
  • If your wheels are extra big, your motor extra powered and your car could reach 90km/h, maybe you have to gear it up

But also how you print it is also important. I use to print with very thin perimeters, even 0.35 or 0.33 for a 0.4mm nozzle so there are 2 perimeters inside each teeth and the pinion is really solid. I'm quite sure you printed it perfect anyway!

Looks like I missed those tips.

Very near pinion/diff with no gap will heat the pinion up and melt it.

I probably had this, let's try again

A little of hope in your heart?¿? HahaHhA hey don't be happy too soon! Anyway it will cost some cents to give it another try!
Which perimeter thickness are you using?¿? is a 14T?¿? I probably will have that pinion generated for myself... I can share it here if you want!

Please show us a photo of your broken pinion! I use 3d printed ones, made with my customizer in 3 of my 4 actual builds and they last more than that... they get loose often but that's all... And they are printed in PLA

are you using some kind of lubricant?

I have some PTFE Grease I applyed once inside the gearbox, but it doesn't seem to do the trick to solve any heat problem if there is...

In case the Quanum Vandal parts are not available you can find compatible ones as FTX Vantage, eg the out of stock cups are available as ftx6237

and there are more, see https://www.reddit.com/r/rccars/comments/1upl1s/hobbyking_alternatives/

  • INTEGY i10B
  • VRX/RiverHobby Spirit

Very good find Francis! Thanks a lot for sharing it

I'm not sure if the holes in those vases are 5mm... are you?¿?

yes, they should be as the vandal is mostly a copy of the vantage
You should recognize these: https://ftx-rc.com/index.php?_route_=ftx-spares-parts/ftx-vantage-spares

OMG Francis! Really good done... I supposed there could be some models with % compatibility with MyRCCar projects, but those FTX seem to be 100%!!!

I think that multiplies the possibilities of people doing a MyRCCar project. I'll try to incorporate this new info in the different publications so people know!

Thanks a lot MyRCCar friend!!!

Did I unlock the truck detail parts? ;-)

As a MyRCCar friend, I'm sure you will have no problem in uploading a pair of photos of the 3 big parts printed to get the rest of the parts and finish the build ;)

Sure, just have to wait a few more days, as they take a loooong time to print here.

Thanks, as he hobbyking website is slow this helps a lot!

  • Tire glue
  • a dremel or similar with metal cutting disc for cutting the piano wire
  • I can also recommend this radio/receiver with gyro and traction control (enable SVC mode)

Also when searching for the Quanum Valdal parts it's actually a copy of the FTX Vantage so those parts should be compatible
eg the cups currently sold out on hobbyking can be found as FTX6237

A wee bit fiddly to attach to the coffee bag but I guess that it is all down to practice as this is a great idea. Printed with two lids - just as a trial. Works perfectly.

Nice to know! Does the coffee bag come with all the bearings and CVDs?¿?