It hasn't quite made it onto the supported printers list yet, but it definitely does work. I’ve used it a bit now and it works pretty well. It still has a way to go, but It’s fantastic being able to queue multiple prints and being able to trigger and monitor them remotely. If you plan on setting this up, I recommend getting a Raspberry Pi, which you can mount to your printer with this (make sure you get the case linked on that page). I won’t link a particular Pi because they are constantly being upgraded with new models. If you go this route, you should also get a Raspberry Pi camera, which you can mount with this. Setting up 3DPrinterOS on my Pi was the absolutely easiest install of anything on my Pi that I have ever done. Big props to their dev team for that.
I've written up a ton of documentation on the PowerSpec Ultra here if anyone wants to give it a read or make recommendations.
While I have been printing for many years, I am new to both the Powerspec Ultra AND Simply3d.
As yet, I have not found a suitable profile for this printer in Simplify3D. In trying to create a profile based on the Flashforge Dreamer, it seems to me that Simplify3D is UNDER-EXTRUDING with the result that it appears not to be dispensing filament.
Any thoughts and suggestions will be very appreciated.
So I purchased me a PowerSpec Ultra 3D, and was already confused out the box, as this was my first big 3D printer. Also the instructions must have been direct from China, as the English was horrible and didn't make much sense. Before this, I had the M3D. Way smaller and totally different setup. But it's been an adventure learning new things. I've seen people on forums complain about the ability to not be able to print without a raft. This was an issue I was stuck on, but from googling other similar printers I switched to using a glass bed and purple glue stick and my PowerSpec is now printing like a champ. Hopefully this helps someone else with similar printer issues.
I have a question about replacing parts on the printer. I had a jam in my print head nozzle that required me take the print head assembly apart to clear it completely. When I was trying to reassemble it, I noticed the aluminum threaded rods (shown in the picture) were at different elevations. I loosened and later removed the set screws but the two rods were frozen in place. I couldn't move them at all. So, I got a new bar altogether, which required getting new aluminum blocks to hold the new heating element & existing thermocouple. I have it connected via alligator clips and tested it by pre-heating it prior to reassembling the print head altogether.
The new heating element did heat up and the existing thermocouple did properly register the correct temperature, however, it did not stop heating it once it reached 230C. I had to stop the pre-heat test. I went through the test again, but I used the original heating element/block and it did stop once it reached 230C.
My question is this, why would it continue to heat, beyond the 230C, when using a different heating element? It's properly registering the temperature. The diameter of the new heating element is narrower. If I'm going to use the existing element, I'm going to have to enlarge the hole in the heating block. That's not a problem, I'm just really curious as to why it continued to heat up with the new element.