I am just wondering if this printer is still being in use for everyone in this group? After getting better printers, I will say, mine has been moved to the corner of the bench, still used but rarely.
GeneralDiscuss on the "General" forum for the PrintRite DIY 3D Printer group on Thingiverse.
I've been lurking for a while, slowly learning how to use my printer and I have a really dumb question to ask. I know the Colido Printrite DIY comes with a .4 mm nozzle; can you change the nozzle to say a .2 or .3 and change it in the software?
If that was possible, wouldn't that give you finer (if not slower) prints?
Ok guys, I'm completely new to this. I downloaded the Repetier software from the website for the DIY printer, LED is flashing and Repetier says it is connected, but I cannot get the printer to do anything, I connect, the printer doesn't move. Trying to calibrate and set Home, etc. It says Unknown Firmware at the bottom. I cannot find any screens or help for a MacBook, so I'm lost. Any help would be greatly appreciated.
Colido control board stopped communicating so I decided to upgrade.
Has anyone got a Config.h for ramps 1.4 or 1.6 for this 3D printer?
If not can anyone tall me which 3D printer in the list of Ramps Config examples is the closest to the Printrite?
I have all the hardware connected and only need to program the Mega in order to finish the upgrade.
Is there a compiled list of the best 3d printable upgrades for this printer? I'm looking at bringing it online to add to my print capacity during the current situation, and I was thinking of having my other printer make upgrades while I'm assembling and calibrating this one.
In particular, I have a preference for stuff that I can hopefully make out of PLA and attach without having to order additional parts for now. I do have some screws, but I'm not sure they'd be the right size.
Second priority would be starting at the low cost end of upgrades that I would need to order parts for and move up. In particular, I think at the very least the z axis end stop sensor is faulty and needs a replacement so the nozzle doesn't keep ramming into the build plate.
Through trial and error I think I found a setting that I am satisfied with. Some tips and mods below.
My Printer! http://i.imgur.com/u6yiCCB.jpg
This is my settings. You can download and load the profile to Cura.
- Profile: https://drive.google.com/open?id=0Bx56CC01hxVsZGlnYkFhcWFOVVk
- Print-Rite Cura settings: http://i.imgur.com/plZ1eEN.jpg
- The Print-Rite base will twist with uneven table so I bought Ikea's LACK and prop the table to the wall to decrease shaking.
- I find that manually turning the right Z-stepper motor while the printer is OFF/unplugged is the easiest way to adjust the bed. Pic: http://i.imgur.com/FL4Eb0V.jpg
- With the Ikea table I find the bed's front to back to be level most of the time. Sometimes I only needed to raise it by adding a post-it note thickness.
- I find that most of the printing mistakes is solved by slowing down the printer - 20mm/s.
- The back left of the bed is the nearest to 0:0 and in Cura it's the black line XYZ indicator while slicing.
String of plastic at the start of the print (I'm still trying to fix this one by software or by a hack)
- There is always a small string of plastic that would stick on the first layer. I usually just clean it out as it's printing out the brim.
Bed: I feel like the screw heads on the original bed are a little depressed so I added a plywood that I know is flat then use the blue tape.
Z axis end-stop calibration screw: Because of the increase height of the plywood bed I needed to extend the z axis screw. I printed a standoff spacer or a cylinder, warmed it up with a heat gun then rotate the screw in. Viola! A threaded spacer.
Adjusted X and Y end-stop switch: I wanted for the 0:0 to be right on the corner of my bed so I moved the X and Y switch closer. I printed some switch holders and fixed it on the metal rods.
LACK Ikea table: The printer is almost as wide as LACK table so if you put an enclosure like I did it might be a tight fit. The concern is the Y stepper motor touching the sides.
Octoprint with Raspberry pi 2: Very convenient specially with a webcam.
So far no major mishaps yet with my printer.