Ok, the printer is working great. I can print directly from Repetier Host (USB), can also load the gcode to SD and trigger a print from SD using Repetier Host from the laptop over USB. HOWEVER, I cannot for the life of me figure out how to run a print from SD directly using the LCD. The LCD is from Joachim Zimmer's method (which works great) and I can browse the menu, settings, heat the extruder, move axis, etc. However, even if I heat the extruder, when I select a file from USB using the LCD, it returns to the "Watch" page and has the file name at the bottom but does nothing. I've waited, and nothing. If use USB from Repetier to run an SD print, start the print and then disconnect the laptop the print runs without problems and the "watch" page on the LCD shows the progress. I can also use the LCD to alter print settings real time (speed, temps, extrusion, etc). I just cannot figure out how to start a SD print without the laptop. Anyone know how, or if it's possible?
Also, a very strange behavior I don't understand but happens almost every time I have tried to start an SD print from LCD. While waiting for something to happen (and giving up), IF I plug my laptop back into the printer with Repetier running, the printer will start printing the selected SD file. I can immediately unplug the USB and it will continue to print normally. At first I thought it was just coincidental timing, but have tried it randomly and it almost always does this. Almost as if just initializing the USB connection releases the print.
On mine after slicing, i press the 'Save to file' button in repetier and save the file it produces on the sd card. To print i use the lcd/dial to select the file and it starts. Interestingly if i remove and re insert the sd card while the printer is on, it won't start. I have to switch the printer off and on again with the sd card inserted before selecting the file.
So if you want to start up some random gcode file from your sd card using the lcd display, is that possible too? Cause i don't really see the benefit of having an lcd display when you can just start it directly from an sd card without anything.
This is true, but the LCD screen reports the running temperature of the bed and hotend, plus the percentage of the job done, plus it has a few other tricks it can do. Try commanding the motors to move without an LCD screen attached. That is, no Laptop, no PC, no Tablet or Phone connected to the USB connector.
And $15 Australian for the LCD complete isn't exactly a King's ransom these days for the ability to control the printer on it's own.
Heres how to do it, only just found it myself and it had me puzzled for a few weeks.
Name the file you want to print auto0.g
start up the printer with the SD card in place and the PC disconnected, the printer will start off heating the bed up and printing your part.
If you place a file auto[0-9].g into the root of the sd card, it will be automatically executed if you boot the printer. The same file will be executed by selecting "Autostart" from the menu. First 0 will be performed, than 1 and so on. That way, you can heat up or even print automatically without user interaction.
Easy when you know how :)
PROBLEM SOLVED! Thank you for all the input and suggestions. The solution which reliably works for me is that the file to print must of course be in gcode, the file name on the SD card must be 8.3 compliant. The SD MUST either be in the printer on power up or inserted for a restart/reboot. Then the file was able to be selected and printed via LCD without anything connected via USB. I guess I had always had the printer on when trying to load the SD and start a print, which never worked... The LCD is now FULLY functional and the printer can be used, tuned, and operated stand alone. A mod I made was to drill a hole in the mainboard cover case (front side) and make a guide for a small plastic tool to be inserted so I can push the reset button in the middle of the mainboard and still have the case installed. Saves me power cycling the whole thing everytime I remove the SD to add a print file etc.
I hope to post a few photos of my setup soon. I finally got the heated bed up, and a few cooling fans, power supply mod, etc. Nothing special but I'm happy. Next is a simple cover to control air movement in the print area. I'm thinking an inverted plastic tub from wallyworld or that container place. Would be able to just put it over the whole thing for the big prints that are more touchy to drafts and will take so long I won't be around to be bothered by the cover.
i don't have any LCD on my printrite but it came to my mind this idea:
you said that when you connect your computer, the print start...so the problem might come from repetier host.
Did you try to uncheck the "check temps" in the printer setting?
still in the printer setting, in connexion, there is also an option about dialog between the printer and the pc....
-i'm a newbie too, this idea could be totally stupid...
I have also finished the LCD Box wired like the pattern from Joachim. But, I only have one row white blank solid Blocks, and one row nothing, then again the both rows again. What's the problem here?
I used this LCD Panelhttp://pages.ebay.com/link/?nav=item.view&id=262317442560&alt=web
Did you try adjusting the contrast with the little pot on the circuit board? when I started my LCD screen up I had nothing on the display so immediately started looking for wiring problems, turned out all I had to do was turn the little pot up a little bit and the screen came up right away.
As to what is causing the display malfunction I don't know. I can say that the display you are using is identical to mine and works. Therefore if the wiring is correct (and I would recommend you double check it as the diagram Zimmer made is simple but unfortunately reused a few colors leading to possible pin confusion. I would recommend relabeling them and using only one color per connection. If it still does not work, then your display may be defective. The only modification I made to his setup was to reverse the encoder's A and B signal lines to change the cursor direction relative to the knob rotation. Mine was reversed for my "feel" and as we do not have access to the firmware to change the code, reversing the analog signal side was easier (probably easier either anyway).
So, by default the LCD was set to i2c address 0x27, is this correct for the print rite board?
same problem here!
are you sure the I2C module is set on address 0x27, mine is on 0x3F (which is not changeable to 0x27) because the chip is newer (PCF8574A). If you have the old one PCF8574 you can change it to 0x27.http://3.bp.blogspot.com/-eo_Aznh0Z-Q/ULG5VH6fG2I/AAAAAAAAAZY/uaJG0fL4e7A/s1600/PCF8574+address+map.png
i have tried to solder the A0/A1/A2, but i used too much heat i think, the solder pads are gone ^^, i have not traced the circuits. the new order is on the way, just the same like in the description.
just received a new lcd (with I2C) and a seperate I2C module, have put it on my arduino uno to scan for the I2C address .... guess what ALL with yhe same address 0x3F ..... I think I just give it up :(
unless someone knows how to change the address on the printers MARLIN firmware
Did you buy the parts from Banggood.com? I just bought the parts that the website with the info took me to and that was Banggood.
All together it cost about $15 and that included free shipping.
It all just worked for me, sorry to hear about some folks having so much trouble with it.
The only thing I modded on it was I increased all the leads to about 1 metre long so I could mount the LCD above the printer but that was it. I kinda got fooled when I powered it up and the screen was blank, but I soon figured out that it was just the contrast that needed adjusting on the LCD board.
My advice to anyone would be buy the Banggood parts that the guy suggests.
all parts I bought at banggood:http://www.banggood.com/IIC-I2C-2004-204-20-x-4-Character-LCD-Display-Module-Blue-p-908616.htmlhttp://www.banggood.com/IIC-I2C-2004-204-20-x-4-Character-LCD-Display-Module-Yellow-Green-p-908821.htmlhttp://www.banggood.com/IIC-I2C-TWI-SP-Serial-Interface-Module-Port-For-5V-Arduino-1602LCD-p-80365.html
All having the wrong I2C address (to high) which I cannot change to the lower one the printer want's.
I assume the Serial Interface board was to try and replace the one you bought with the LCD display that had the wrong address? I was lucky in that the supplied LCD display (yellow-green) had the correct serial board attached for my printer. The only other things I bought besides the Display was a rotary encoder and the cables that were suggested on that guys website.
Would it help you in any way if I took a picture of my board (probably not) and posted it here for you? It's a shame you cannot get your hands on a working display to prove or disprove the actual printer board is good or bad, I guess its not impossible for them to be bad. I also assume that the small Arduino board is hardwired to select the address and not programmed, Is that correct?
Where about do you live? If it's nearby I can post you my working version for you to test your printer with, but if it's overseas then the postage would cost more than the things worth :)
Thx for your offer, but I just received a new I2C module from a local online store. My arduino I2C address scanner shows 0x27... finally I got my hands on the correct module! Now I just need to unsolder the wrong module of my LCD... omg!
Well! how did you get on? I won't be able to sleep at nights till I know you have it fixed :)
Heh heh heh, just kidding mate, but I was curious to know if that new module did it for you or if there was something else amiss with the printer.
ooh boy ooh boy, good (de)soldering is really NOT my thing especially PCB's.
But with some jumper cables I finally cracked the code ;)
IT'S WORKING !!
The LCD screen works, so for everybody trying this be aware of I2C address 0x27 or you need to hack/replace the firmware which nobody tried (mentioned) as far as I know.
Maybe I'll start a new topic "replacing the micro controller board" when I'm up to a new adventure.
Glad to hear you got it working, you would probably have found it easier to have replaced your controller board with a Ramps 1.4 board :)
Fingers crossed, what a carry on :)
You should be able to see the card and your files on the LCD which sounds like you can.
Are you trying to print a .stl file or .gcode file? If stl ... open repeter host, slice, save gcode and place on sd card.
When you select file from lcd to print the printer should heat up then print.
Hope this helps
The files are gcode. I've tried variations of the file extension as I understand the Marlin firmware can only support 8.3 file naming conventions. I've tried, .g .gco and *.gc
I take it that you have a similar configuration and yours is working? Are you using the "save for SD print" option in Repetier host? Which version? Are you editing the gcode generated or commenting out any lines before transfer to SD? I assumed that if the file would print from SD by triggering from Repetier over USB that that file would be correct and "good enough" for printing directly via the LCD console. However, again - no success.
I remember seeing a video on youtube, maybe that can help you.
It is not mine, js.
I did go watch the video, unfortunately he is using a tablet and also a PC to trigger the SD print. I am using this.http://zimmerjoachim.wix.com/zimmer-joachim#!print-rite-lcd-display/dygz3
Do not know a way to contact him but assume others have been successful as having an LCD is primarily for running the printer without a USB connected computer. The Marlin firmware for LCD/SD printing works in other machines on the web, but I am wondering if anyone has been successful with the Print Rite DIY and this.