Prusa i3

I've just finished building my new printer (Bought from Amazon:
3D Printers Prusa i3 Auto Leveling Desktop 3D Printer DIY Kit Self-assembly Acrylic Frame LCD Screen Display + MK8 Extruder Nozzle + MAK3 Heatbed + 8GB SD Card, Printing Size 220220240 mm
by MSQIN )

Build went OK but when I powered up, not a lot happened:

Power supply powers up and fan works. Output terminals deliver 12v
Cooling fan on print head powers up (noisily!) The fan with a nozzle does not spin.
Proximity sensor lights when an object is brought close
Display board lights up - but displays two rows of 20 rectangles in a taseful pink on a blue background

What can I do next? (Please!)

Hi guys, new to 3D printing here. My printer as been fine for almost 3 months but few days ago some problems started. The connector to the hotbed keep making some sparks, the connector and the pin will get "burn" and the hotbed will stop working, if i clean the connectors will start to work again but after some hours of printing will do the same. I will like to know how i can fix this problem, i looked for a hotbed replacement but in europe i did not find any so far and i will prefer to avoid a shipping from china that will take ages, i was printing 2 giant legos for my kids, one is done, the other one i have just 2 parts, when i told to my little one that the printer was broken he cryed because he realized he could not have his lego :(
I will add some pictures, hope someone can help me with this issue, thank a lot guys.

Sry for the terrible english.

When your are trying to create a bridge I have found that this more likely to be most successful if you place your model in a way for the bridge to be made on the X-Axis than the Y-Axis because it much easier to move the X-Axis at higher speeds than the Y-Axis. Hope this tip helps. Happy printing.

Robert KB3LNN

Hello guys,

I own a BQ Prusa i3 hephestos and I cannot get it to heat up to 250 degrees. Indeed I am stuck around 230-235 degrees.
Would a stronger power supply solve my problem (I am using the original one with 12V 8A - no heating bed installed)?
I would like to print some flexible material but no luck so far, I guess 235 degrees just isn't enough.

And another issue I am having is the cooling- when I turn cooling fan on in Cura, it seems to cool too much. I have printing temperature set at 205 for example- with cooling on it goes down to about 190-188 or I set 210 and it goes down to 190 degrees...
Any ideas?

Thank for all your help

OK, here's something that has bugged me ever since I started using my printer earlier this year.

Before I slice my STL, I have to mirror the design on Y. If I don't my prints come out backwards in the Y axis.
This is especially noticeable whenever there is any text in the design.

I've come to accept it as part of my tool chain quirks, but is there something I can do (either to slicer settings, Marlin, printer configuration, etc) to fix this so I don't have to do this additional step any more?

I am printing with:
Prusa i3 Rework
Cura 2.7.0
Marlin 1.1 firmware

Thanks!