I recently went into marlin to try and find a change filament feature. Sure enough there was one. I activated the advanced pause feature in marlin and set the distances and speed for my printer and the uploaded the firmware. When I click on change filament it will preheat it for PLA but then it will beep and say insert filament and press button. The only problem is that it did not unload the filament first. I want it to unload the filament so that i dont have to do it manually. Any help would be great.
I recently swapped out some parts for my custom Prusa i3 which required me to change the x-axis homing direction. When I go into sli3r and into the bed configuration, I see no option that will allow me to flip the x-axis of the bed. I believe that if I leave it be all of my parts will come out as if they were reflected across the x-axis. Any help would be great.
I have an ANet A8, a Chinese clone of the Prusa i3. It uses the ANet V1.0 control board, similar to the MKS base board (http://g01.a.alicdn.com/kf/HTB17cSmMVXXXXaAXpXXq6xXFXXXk/3Pcs-lot-3D-Printer-Parts-Control-Mother-Driver-Board-for-Anet-V1-0-Printer-Control-Precision.jpg).
Today the board failed as far as I can tell. The heatbed temperature was listed as 242C at room temperature, and still showed this erroneous measurement even when the thermistor was unplugged (indicating some kind of internal short). And reflashing the firmware did not seem to help, so in the meantime I can probably print with an unheated bed, but I think to print with a heated bed again I need to replace the control board. I have an Arduino Mega lying around so I'm tempted to just replace it with RAMPS 1.4, but I need to know what switching boards will entail modification-wise?
Is replacing the board essentially a drop in replacement? Does RAMPS need a specific type of thermistor or do I just indicate in the firmware what kind of thermistor I have? What about the LCD screen? Mine currently has a 5-tact switch LCD with no contrast pot. Can I configure in the firmware for it to work with this? Or do I need the specific RAMPS LCD?
Hi, everyone. I wanted to share my process for setting values for the Bed Level Correction. It's been working great for me on my Original Prusa i3 Mk 2S. If you find it useful or have suggestions for making it better, I'd love to know. https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:3008633
Had a MK3 for nearly 3 months, what a mistake buying this, multiple issues, collision detected messages, and resumes with xy shifts, blocked or leaking hot end, the whole thing is totally unreliable .You have to be with it all the time. Any reasonably high complex print seems to fail .
To be fair, small thin prints are excellent but I can get a cheap mini to do that. Worst £990 I have ever spent.