General

I have a few spools of Prusament filament. I have a print that works perfectly, multiple times, with the hot pink, but fails every time with the Azure Blue. All other factors are identical. Prusa i3 printer, bed 70, nozzle 215, speed 65%. Pink = perfect Raspberry Pi cases every time. Same gcode file, Azure Blue = globs of blue plastic all over the extruder (or would be if I weren't standing there watching like a hawk.)

Any suggestions? Is color-sensitive printing a common thing?

Hi is there a way to filter in thingiverse to show designs created for a multi material printer? I keep seeing tons of cool colored designs only to find out they painted them afterwards. I'm finding it hard to find things specifically designed with a multi material printer in mind.

Thanks,

Karl

I've got the included spool holder with my Mk3 and I've noticed that the spools tend to slide around on the holder. Has anyone seen some kind of collar or ring that can be printed and attached to the holder to stop the spool from sliding around?

I have a adimlab gantry and I broke the thermistor on it so I got a new one but the printer won't read the thermistor. https://www.amazon.com/dp/B078GMLYPK/?coliid=I3FVOMN9AF3PSY&colid=3JPQMSPK0OAER&psc=1&ref_=lv_ov_lig_dp_it these are the thermistors I got and I don't know what to do to.

Has anyone had this happen? When I go into Settings->Move Axis->Extruder, it extrudes filament without a hitch, but when I go to print my files from the SD card, it keeps clicking like the extruder is clogged. I was printing these files just fine repeatedly up until this morning when the problem began.

I've had a multitude of issues over the years with these but this is a first. Could it be my stepper motor?

EDIT: Solved! I recently used a new type of filament (regular was sold out due to corona) and the spool got tangled several times so the extruder was yanking on it and it messed up my z-height. The nozzle was too close to the bed to print.

maybe someone can listen to this and give me some pointers to what's causing the sounds im hearing.

The z axis here:
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=FqDqrVyidLw

Im thinking its just a resonance coming from the top rod holders. Since a printer almost never do long z axis movements i can only hear this when the homing is moving down to the bed.

The x axis here:
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=LnWM316YMgs

It sounds like some plastic is squeaking to me and it only happens on small fine details of the print with short movements.
On the long strokes its no sound like that.

Hope someone can give me som pointers.

Hi,

I'd like to share my experience with printing ABS:

I started to print it on Kapton @ 220-240°C on 100°C hotbed, while it's fine for small/thin pieces, it's rather difficult for larger/tall pieces: corner lifting and delamination.

I then printed on borosillicate glass and got pretty good (even too good sometimes) adhesion with abs slurry with hotbed at 90°C. It is however quite tricky as I still got corner lifting on corners from time to time, an delamination for thick pieces, 250°C and lower layer speed seemed to improve adhesion. I got some pieces that stuck too well to the glass and got a big chuck of glass coming with it once... one advice, let it cool to room temperature and be careful.

About one month ago I replaced the power & hot bed cabling (6 square milimeters for power and 4 square milimeters for hot bed), at 10+ Amps the voltage loss in the cables was far from negligible! I also increased the supply voltage from 13V to 14V. This allows me to reach 150°C hotbed temperature (MK2 PCB hotbed) while I was just able to reach 105-110°C before. And I think I found the best way to print ABS:

Extrusion temperature: 260°C (Full metal hot head! don't try this with a teflon tube as it will release toxic fumes)
Hot bed temperature: 120°C
Platform treatment: none... bare borosillicate glass, well cleaned with isopropyl alcohol.

And the bonus is... I can print with coolling fan on and get similar quality to PLA for decorative pieces (I tried down to 0.05mm layer), I have yet to experience delamination or corner lifting with this setup (and I did print rather large pieces).

Disadvantage: stronger smell of ABS than at 220-240°C

Hi, i have secured an original Prusa PINDA probe for my MK2 clone - and now I would like to hook it up to my RAMPS board. But I am not sure what cable goes to what pin on my endstop connector on the RAMPS board. Can anyone help me?

Hi everybody,

I am a bloody beginner when it comes to 3D printing in general; got my Prusa i3 MK3S recently and am currently printing this (https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:2864118). It works fine. There are only a few print settings (nothing about infill or how much millimeter to set - I usually use 0.15mm Quality), but printing hasn't caused me any trouble so far.

Earlier today, I tried this (https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:2764617) print. They didn't even state the material to use, so I went with PETG, and the print messed up about an hour in. I didn't see what happened, but suddenly the filament coming out of the nozzle was all over the place. It didn't even look like layers were printed correctly, but there was no filament in some places and way too much at others.

I have had trouble printing other things I downloaded from here as well, while the prusa example files that came with the SD card usually worked fine. I am trying to find the error, so far it could be

• some models on here are better than others
• if no print settings are given, I should always set mm to small
• this was chance and the same files that failed before might work the next time
• (you tell me)

Unfortunately, I haven't figured this out, and I don't want to take a change each time I print a new model. Is there a way to have Prusa Slicer tell me the settings that might work best with the currently loaded model? Or is there a rule of thumb I can go with if I don't know what settings to apply?

Thank you for your ideas :)