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DO NOT GET ZBRUSH CORE unless,

by Lord_Farzenbobble

you plan to only use zbrush core for sculpting from scratch. You can only open zbrush core files. You can only save as a zbrush core file or a .stl. This little tidbit of info is only on 1 page of the documentation , at the bottom, I swear they just added it. Sculptris has better file support.
Do not view this program as an upgrade from using free software, it is a new starting point. You will not be able to pull anything into it to update a sculpt you made from another program. That also means, all those free download brushes, nope. Base body files, nope. Though it is a good program other than the file support issue.

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Best Filament Paint

by Misdemeanour

Was just wondering what the best paint for PLA is?

The paint I purchased looks like absolute crap so I'm really keen to find out what everyone uses.

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Tutorial on how to 3D print minis with 3rd party resins

by drato

Hey everyone,

I used a 3rd party resin (Liqcreate Stone Coal Black) to print a skull and miniatures for an architecture model on my Formlabs Form 2. I thought this might also be interesting for mini creators to get a feeling on how the Form2 is performing concerning miniature printing. The video covers the following topics:

-Exchanging Build Platform
-Exchanging Resin Tank
-Filter/Clean Resin
-Prepare Printer for using 3rd Party Resin
-Prepare a Model in Preform for printing & Uploading to the Printer
-Postprocessing Prints: Clean/Rinse with Ultrasonic Cleaner, UV Cure, Cutting Supports

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prepping for paint

by nickythegreek

So I wanted to talk about prepping models for painting. Right now I have basically 3 things that I use, and I wonder if anyone else has any different products or techniques. It seems like I always have a lot of stuff to print and paint, and I got a game to run. So I tend to go with speed over time.

I do most of my printing at .2mm on a Lulzbot Taz 5 for larger stuff and I try and pack the bed pretty regularly. I'll do some more detailed pieces on an Ultimaker 2 Go (I bounce between .2mm, .15mm, sometimes .1). I do rougher prints to save time and assume my next step will help even out surface detail. I rarely do light sanding prior to priming. I almost always print with cheap white PLA. For high detailed stuff and my heroforge moels, I use a Form 1+ resin printer with Gray v3 resin.

  1. Rustoleum Sandable Filler/Primer - I love this stuff, but I normally only use 1 coat. I'm sure 3 coats would really be better.
    https://smile.amazon.com/Rust-Oleum-249418-Automotive-12-Ounce-Sandable/dp/B003CT4AMU

  2. Krylon Triple Thick Clear Glaze - Used this for the first time today and it looked impressive. This stuff goes down thick and looks like it will self level pretty nicely. I am worried that I might lose some detail. I am also unsure how it will paint and if I will need to put a primer on top of it. Smells horrible.
    https://smile.amazon.com/gp/product/B001144TJC/

  3. XTC 3D - 2 part epoxy coating made to self level on 3d prints. This stuff wasn't worth the hassle for me. It is messy, has a short work time and I tend to put too much on and it runs.
    https://smile.amazon.com/XTC-3D-High-Performance-Print-Coating/dp/B00PFXK4JY/

  4. Vallejo Plastic Putty - This stuff is great for repairing small print issues, hiding seems or creating transitions after mating multiple parts. A little goes a long way, dries fast and has no order (my tamiya putty stinks up the whole room).
    https://smile.amazon.com/Vallejo-VJ70400-Plastic-Putty-17ml/dp/B000PHCNLC/

Afterwards, I normally jump right into acrylic paints (sometimes I'll use a spray paint black primer first to get a good dark base). I normally use either Vallejo or Army Painter acrylics that I pickup from the local gaming store.

I'm currently not using anything to seal afterwards. Is that necessary? Any recommendations on that front?

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camping models

by nickythegreek

I see several beds on thingiverse, but no sleeping bags and camping decor. Anyone know where I might be able to find anything like that?
Thanks.

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