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How to print minis on the Form2 with 3rd party resin

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Hey everyone,

I used a 3rd party resin (Liqcreate Stone Coal Black) to print a skull and miniatures for an architecture model on my Formlabs Form 2. I thought this might also be interesting for mini creators to get a feeling on how the Form2 is performing concerning miniature printing. The video covers the following topics:

-Exchanging Build Platform
-Exchanging Resin Tank
-Filter/Clean Resin
-Prepare Printer for using 3rd Party Resin
-Prepare a Model in Preform for printing & Uploading to the Printer
-Postprocessing Prints: Clean/Rinse with Ultrasonic Cleaner, UV Cure, Cutting Supports

Hi drato

Thank you for this information I now have a Chinese copy of the Form 1 and a Wanhoa D7 resin printers for doing my smaller detailed parts. I have found that I need to print at 0.05mm or smaller to get the resins to cure properly. Hope they make it easier for you that they provide an open source preform for the Form 2. the one for the Form 1 one is magic as you have access to all the variables to set it up for any resin

Hey Tony,

how is the Wanhao D7? Sadly the Form2 is not open to change any variable, this would be great but it’s ok for me that the system is a bit more closed, it is easy, reliable and for most use cases it’s perfectly fine. My choice was due to the clean process of exchanging the cartridge, tank and platform. I would love to see your workflow for the Wanhao D7.

Hi Drato

Not sure about what you mean by work-flow, not into these buzz words. As far as the D7 goes initially had lots of problems, arrived faulty and took months to get it sorted out. The support staff are very responsive, but lack a bit of general technical knowledge. I had a lot of problems printing at the start, due to trying to figure out layers and cure times. But now I have it all sorted. and produces some nice prints.
Technically I personally think the SLA printers are better than the DLP/DUP printers mainly because the output of the SLA is analogue while the DLP/DUP is digital, which can give problems on the model depending how fine the details are.

Tony

Hey Tony,

with workflow I meant something similar to what I showed in the video, how prep the printer, how to prep the model for printing etc.
The experience you describe is exactly the reason why I chose the Form 2 and also my Ultimaker 2. I didn’t want this kind of experience, and those two printers were a bit more expensive but I was sure they would be reliable and working without hassle. Though I have to add that cheaper printers aren’t necessarily bad. I totally love my Creality CR-10 the cheapest large volume Printer I found so far and it works reliably with great quality.

Hi Drato

It depends on the model, generally models are generated in Rhino 3D. The supports I use either version of B9 creator that has been set up for the D7, or Creation Workshop, or Nanodlp. Then I download the the STL files into Nanodlp that is running on a raspberry PI for printing. Depending on the model I may have to process the STL file on my desktop, then download the prepared file to the PI.
As far as preparing the printer just turn it on, make sure it has resin in it and just print. I have had resin sitting in the printer sometimes for a couple of weeks between uses with no adverse affects. Post printing just rinse between IPA and soapy water, then depending on the items use determines whether I post cure with UV.

Thanks for the insides!