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Is this Z-wobble?

by Nepherael

Using a Qidi Tech I (FFCP Clone) - may cross post in Qidi Group

Trying to figure out what this is. I've tested changes in acceleration/jerk I've tested changes in speed with no change at all and based on all other troubleshooting guides I can find it is coming back as a possible Z-wobble AND/OR XY-axis slop.

I'm assuming that means that there is slop in my Z thread rob and maybe every full revolution it slips a bit because at 0.2 mm layer height I get this issue about the same distance on all my SMALL parts. I'm not sure that I always have but for sure at least a couple months. On parts that are larger (but much shorter so longer extrusion distances) I am not seeing this problem. I do, however, see some ringing on direction changes.

Theoretically I think it is still possible it could be acceleration or jerk but I'm hoping for some more trained eyes on this. I use this printer commercially and I do not mind working on it to replace or tighten stuff up but I will have to accomplish any tasks quickly.

Any suggestions or tips you have are greatly appreciated. If the image upload does not work correctly I will try and get a larger version. Let me know if you need further info. This has been tested on multiple prints using Simplify3D and different models.

Edit: attached a second photo. Slightly different spot for the lines on the part behind it. Both spots for the lines seem to be oriented toward the front of the printer an the right side of the model (print bed leaning forward?)

I am also hosting a copy of the photos at one of my websites
https://pickapolish.com/imagehosting/griplines.jpg
https://pickapolish.com/imagehosting/griplines2.jpg

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Who is Chris Elkins and why are his profiles so popular?

by santanig5

Greetings,
Total Noob here, I've been printing for about two weeks now on my Creality CR-10 mini with varying success. I was initially using Cura 3.1.0 to slice my prints then it was suggested by a co-worker who has been printing for some time to use S3D as he says it is "simply the best" slicing software out there, so I did and again with varying results.
Yesterday someone on the FB Creality CR-10 group suggested I try Chris Elkins' profile and just change the bed size as it was configured for a S4 bed, so again in search of a better print I downloaded it and printed a benchy, it was better than the profile I was using from my co-worker, but why?
What level of understanding does Chris have of this printer, the process and printing in general that makes his profile so good and how does one obtain this information?
I've looked at the setting and researched terms I do not understand, but the explanation sometimes leves be just as in the dark as I was before!
Clearly there is no one size fits all when it comes to 3D printing with all the different printer and material manufacturers out there but I am eager to learn, and am not sure where to start.
Any help would be appreciated.

Creality_CR-10 noob
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Filament starved perimeters

by Captain_sq

I've been fighting this problem for a while now but no success. Endless fiddling with processes doesn't seem to make any difference. Why are the inner perimeters (especially circular holes) always printed with less fill that the outer? Looking at the outer perimeters they are looking fine with nice overlap to the adjacent wall making them bond nicely. Most of the the inner perimeters do not. I'm beginning to suspect S3D has a bug somewhere. In the linked photo, look at the four smaller holes to the left, these IPs are OK, whereas the six larger ones near bottom edge of the object are not. Infills and infill to perimeter overlap are good. I'm getting frustrated and considering trying another slicer to check if the problem persist or not.

I'm using S3D 4.0.1 Does anyone here experience the same thing? Suggestions?

Typical result in this photo:
https://www.dropbox.com/s/eec4r21t4mmhbdg/20180211_082924_Richtone%28HDR%29.jpg?dl=0

overlap perimeters walls
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Fan speed filament cooling fan

by byemi

Hello all,

I'm having a problem with setting up the fan speed which is cooling down the PLA. I have a CTC 3D printer ( with the v7.7 Sailfish firmware) for which I did the setup from the following link (https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:295317) and I'm using Simplify3D as slicer. In the software I'm making all the necessary settings and also at the cooling stage where I set up a fan speed (i.e. : 50%) which starts from layer no.2. Saved the file on the card and started the printing process. What happens every time is that the fan runs at full speed (100%) instead of half speed (50%). From what I understand so far, in the *x3g file there is no control of the fan speed, rather turns it ON (1% - 100% in S3D) and OFF(0% in S3D). I haven't change nothing hardware speaking ; didn't change the mainboard, microcontroller. The only upgrade I did was soldering the PSMN7R0-30YL MOS-FET. Even in the control panel ( the window where you manually control the printer like : movements, temperature etc) I can't control the fan speed (either 0% or 100%). Did someone had the same issue and did manage to repair it ? Any ideas, suggestions are welcomed. Thank you all in advance. Wish you a nice day.
Kind regards, Emi

Active Cooling Fan Duct for Replicator 1 / Duplicator 4 / FlashForge
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print stops

by Armastall

After a while the printer stops printing, the extruder stops, the printer is working with cura. In the beginning i didn't have any problems and i don't think i changed any settings. Does anyone know the cause?
My printer is a Dagoma Discoeasy and it uses marlin as firmware

error problem
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