Hi, my name is RJ and a proud owner of Sunhokey Prusa I3 3D printer
I got my hokey last December as a Christmas gift for myself... LOL
It would be nice to know how everyone is doing with their sunhokey printer... sharing experiences, failures/success stories to learn from.
As for my experience, as soon as I received my printer I immediately start assembling it and managed to successfully print some calibration parts using the provided filament. One thing that immediately caught my attention though was the frequent movement of endstop holder... It just wont stay on its place giving inconsistent quality of the print out. So I decided to design new endstop holders and also a power switch holder which proves to be effective... you can get the design here: http://www.thingiverse.com/thing:640943
I also made some more improvements that I will share later on.
As for some of the details on my setup, please refer below.
1) I used ESUN PLA filament now. I find the orange color filament gives the best quality print.
2) Nozzle temp setting is 200 deg C and bed temp is 60 deg C.
3) I used diluted PVA glue (50:50 water/PVA) on the surface of the borosilicate glass to improve adhesion and prevent lifting. I used a 1/2 inch artist brush to spread the glue.
4) Speed setting is within 20~30 mm/sec (depends on layer height which is from 0.1~0.2mm since I need good details on my print out)
Hope this helps and really hope to learn from others as well.
Cheers everyone and keep printing ;)
I recently bought a Sunhokey machine 2015 version. I assemble everything according to the instructions included in the DVD, calibrate everything, and print a lot of the projects for the machine that I found on thingiverse using the SD card.
When I try to use CURA an connect the printer via USB, my USB cable burst in FLAMES!!!!!!
also this short circuit damage the USB port in my computer...
I did some measurements with my voltmeter and found that the power supply ground was at 12V. Everything was correctly connected!.
I found that the M4 screws fixing the power supply to the acrylic wall were shorting the 12V rail to the PSU physical ground. The right-bottom one is directly behind of the 12V rail of the PSU, and if you use the M4 screws recommended in the instruction DVD, you will go trough the plastic film and short the ground of the PSU to the 12V rail.
Please guys be careful! Do not over-tighten this screws, use shims to avoid going through the film inside the PSU, or simply do not put the Bottom-right screw. Your USB cable and port are in high risk, I think this is even a fire hazard, I hope you take it into account.
This is a post to warn (new) sunhokey people about the hazard of your MKS catching fire !!
Recently i saw a few posts about MKS boards catching fire!!
Through the connectors of the MKS is running high current.
Any shortcircuit or to high resistance of the wires (because of wires not fully stranded) can cause a failure/fire.
First thing you have to do while assembling / or after printing a while, is make sure your power is disconnected from mains and also remove the usb cable.
Now check "all" wires for loose strands. All wires need to be fully stranded, so when you strip your wire make sure you don't cut any copperwires (if so cut of that piece off and start over, make sure you don't cut your wire to short).
Next, when you stripped your wire, turn the ends, after that you can fold the wire once.
Don't tin your wires as seen in the picture below (for detailed info about that, read the comment of Gruvin below)
Make sure all wires are long enough to fit inside the connectors and don't stick out. Double check !!
This will solve a lot of problems.
Because your bed is a moving part, make sure the wires don't pull themselves out of the connectors or strands will break, by simply mounting the wires to the acrylic with some sticky clamp.
User solutions/recommendations (i am in NO way responsible for these solutions, do at your own risk):
1) Replace original wires from the heatbed to 16AWG silicone cables.
2) Direct soldering the wires, desolder connectors from MKS and solder directly to printboard.
3) Placing relay between MKS motherboard, powersuply and heatbed.
As Gruvin stated (see comments) make sure you check your terminals from time to time.
The best and safest solution for this problem is using a relay.
So current is flown through the relay instead of your motherboard, saving all parts connected to your motherboard.
This picture is not for your MKS board but it shows how the relay could be connected between your bed, power suply and MKS board. (relay is the white box left from to the power suply).
When using a relay make sure you buy one with correct specifications (rated for 12V DC (direct current) and minimal 20 Amps).
Good relays are:
Solid state relay (INPUT 3-32V DC, OUTPUT 5-60V DC 25A): http://imgur.com/DJxWCD2
When using a Solid State Relay, make sure you disable PID for your bed in your firmware and attach a cooling fan on the relay.
Car Relay (12V DC 20A (picture shows 40A version)): http://imgur.com/XiDi4Ra
When using a car relay make sure it has a diode across the coil: http://imgur.com/ptlUfP5
Connecting car relay: http://imgur.com/ZJ2ndGB
The problem with using the NPN Normally Open (NPN NO) inductive sensors has nothing to do with firmware or the sensors themselves. The mks gen 1.2/1.4 boards have hardware pullup resistors built into them. The ones used for the end stops are labeled R16-R20 plus R27 on both boards, confirmed as I own both of them. If you want to, and you should, use Z-Max end stop for the sensor, you will need to desolder/physically destroy and remove the resistor marked R27. The NPN NO sensor will read 5v when not triggered and will drop to ground upon detecting metal. Nothing fancy, just wire the sensor to a preexisting connector or make your own and it will work off of +5v no problem. If the board is oriented to where the usb connection is top left, then the left most pin is the sense line, the middle is ground and right is +5v for the end stop connection. This has plagued me far too long, and honestly should have been very obvious to me. Here is the information for those who seek it. I will be posting my final firmware package and all the collective upgrades I'm using so whomever would like to set this up, has a much easier time than I did.
Fck auto bed leveling, calibrate your printer and you won't go wrong. Don't waste the time using inductive sensors trying to think you're cool sht.
I have purchased a PRUSA i3. It was working fine with some filament leakage from hot-end sides until it stopped working and showed no menu on the Display. I was advised to adjust R1 on the back of the display board and by Adjusting R1 the display became normal. But I am having an Error at the display as follows:
Err: MAXTEMP BED and it show bed Temperature H 236/0 even at room temperature (25).
The error is displayed even if I disconnect the Bed Heater wires and the thermister wires from the main board (location 9,10 &16). I have completely disconnected everything except the USB Cable from the board (MKS Gen-2Z V1.1) but display now shows ERR: MINTEMP. I am not able to control any movement from my REPETIER SW (Manual Control) even.
Is there any procedure to reset this error in the motherboard? or Load the Firmware again to the board. Or anything else???