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Hi, my name is RJ and a proud owner of Sunhokey Prusa I3 3D printer

I got my hokey last December as a Christmas gift for myself... LOL

It would be nice to know how everyone is doing with their sunhokey printer... sharing experiences, failures/success stories to learn from.

As for my experience, as soon as I received my printer I immediately start assembling it and managed to successfully print some calibration parts using the provided filament. One thing that immediately caught my attention though was the frequent movement of endstop holder... It just wont stay on its place giving inconsistent quality of the print out. So I decided to design new endstop holders and also a power switch holder which proves to be effective... you can get the design here: http://www.thingiverse.com/thing:640943

I also made some more improvements that I will share later on.

As for some of the details on my setup, please refer below.

1) I used ESUN PLA filament now. I find the orange color filament gives the best quality print.

2) Nozzle temp setting is 200 deg C and bed temp is 60 deg C.

3) I used diluted PVA glue (50:50 water/PVA) on the surface of the borosilicate glass to improve adhesion and prevent lifting. I used a 1/2 inch artist brush to spread the glue.

4) Speed setting is within 20~30 mm/sec (depends on layer height which is from 0.1~0.2mm since I need good details on my print out)

Hope this helps and really hope to learn from others as well.

Cheers everyone and keep printing ;)

Sunhokey PRUSA I3 Improved Endstop Holder and Add Power Switch

Hi my name is Carl and I got my Sunhokey Prusa I3 3D Printer last week. I cant set it up yet cause i am doing over some renovations to my house but i am quit anxious to put it together. Already started buying upgrade parts (NPN Inductive Sensor, E3D V6 Extruder kit and a glass print bed.

Hi my name is Michael and I'm a proud owner of the i3 for 2 years now ;)

I have improved my printer a lot (original e3d v6, inductive sensor for bed leveling, enclosure for the whole printer and now I'm upgrading it to a 5.5 W laser cutter ;) )

Hi, retired Malaysia, KL here :)
Ordered and got my Sunhokey Prusa i3 end of April via Lazada. Received it within 1 week, nicely packed!
Was worried that I had made a wrong choice, tried to cancel to get a more expensive (better?) model, but failed.
Long story short..... read up a lot of "how to", etc. build it and did my first print without a hitch. No regrets after all.
Leaves me plenty of room (and money) to learn and improve on a good basic model.

Added an 18 mm plywood base and draw the alignment lines (found in thingiverse) to sit the printer on. The printer looked solid until I put it on the base and boy, was the frame bent under all the belt tension. Decided to added metal brace to straighten out the base plates, then its calibration time....

I just ordered a Sunhokey Prusa i4 printer. It's my 4th printer but I'm going to put my delta up for sale bringing me back to 3.

Any immediate warnings I should know? I know how to design and build stuff, been building electronics since the 1960s (helped my father build a DX-100 transmitter), it's now my profession.

Other than that, hoping this works as well as our two Afinias, I have somewhere over 10,000 hours on them (combined)!. Much experience here keeping things running and fabricating parts when needed (I also have a machine shop).

Hello everyone, I just got on board. Trying to get the ship as it is going. (not sure if this is funny ) :P
My name is Flavio, I'm a Brazilian living in France. I work in the 3D industry as a 3d artist for architecture renderings.
I bought a sunhokey 5 days ago and I'm very happy to own a 3d printer, and also pretty much satisfied with the prints I'm getting (besides the long time to print (most of the time with Slic3r)). I spend a long time reading about it and I guess I should upgrade some parts of my printer to get it working seamless and flowing well.
For the time being I'm printing some upgrade parts and some little objects and toys/useful things to know how to handle it a bit better. I was willing to use S3D but idk why I get a lot of blobs in my print, maybe the firmware or something is not 100% i don't know (slic3r seems to work a lot better on this), I actually like a lot the interface of S3D.
We'll see as the machine upgrades if my prints get better, or not. lol I like to model cartoon characters to print later. I hope I can handle those that's why I'm trying to get prints better and better.

Best regards to everyone,

Have fun !


Welcome Flavio, enjoy your stay and don't be afraid to ask questions.

Thanks Phistter :)

you're welcome, but the name is Phistterbut. I forgive you this time.

Ok, my bad. ^^ thanks Phistterbut.

Hello Everyone,

I apologize if this is the incorrect place to post this but I'm a noob :). I have had my Sunhokey Prusa I3 3D printer for about 4 months now, it is printing fairly well the only annoying thing that I am dealing with is that i have to manual adjust the Z stepper motors during every print. I adjust the Z axis before every print and making sure the hot end is about papers width from the bed. I feel that i am doing something wrong here. I was wondering if anyone has a proper procedure that i can follow so that I don't have to manually adjust the Z axis via stepper motor during every print. Thank you so much and I am sorry again if this it not the correct forum.

I have a similar issue, but when I change filaments, I have the printer perfectly calibrated, but when I change from ABS to PLA (may be its the brand problem and not the material). I need to move the Z motors by hand, like 2 or 3 steps.

I prefer not to touch the calibration since I print mostly with ABS.

You have an screw for calibrate the Z initial position (I sure you know that). The "L" that hold the switch used to get loose. So tight it up, Move it a little higher from 90 degree. So the switch touch the scree before. I use the Auto Home function, to test the calibration. It should be 2 papers from the nozzle to the bed.

Some times I start printing and when I need to correct the Z motors, I move the screw each time. For some reason some times I suspect the printer will no re-calibrate using the switch between prints. So I completely power of and on again (but its a feeling..)

Hey if anyone out there is using their sunhokey with MKS Gen 2z 1.2 and a Diamond hotend please for the love of everything share how you've hooked it all up. I have a fairly good idea what I'm supposed to do to add that extra extruder not available on the board but anyone with previous experience would be a hero if they could help out.

hello im hank and just bought a printer

Hello Hank, welcome.

greetings - my name is Bradley I just purchased the sunhokey kit. Got it up and running without too much trouble but i am pretty ignorant of this kind of computer stuff. I love the open source concept and inexpensive hardware and freeware but i cant really find any solid info like a users manual to address the million and one questions. I am loading .stl files into cura and then slicing and making gcode loading it on the sd card then running the printer from the sd card.

It works but having some quality issues and basically running on generic cura settings using PLA.

There was some setup info i think to use repetier but then i think i have to plug my pc and my prusa together and run by a cable.

If i use repetier then do i not need to use cura?
What settings do i use in Cura? do i just have to expirement to find out what works? seems lke a lot of wasted time if i could just get the info somewhere. but all in all it is very cool kit.

Repetier has a couple slicing engines and a really nice online firmware configuration tool. You don't have to plug the laptop in all the time. If you get a Raspberry Pi, it would be able to run the printer and provide web interface for mobile and PC. Google the phrase 3d print troubleshooting and you should find a couple pictorial guides for diagnostics. Other than that, I can tell you to keep that extruder tight and don't give up. Feel free to drop me a dm, I like to help. Cheers.

Hello everyone, My name is Don E. I live in Litchfield, MI and I bought my Sunhokey Prusa I3 3D printer in Jan 2017 as a kit. The kit it self and all the parts is great. The very first problem I had is after my build and everything worked but it would not save settings so I was told to install new firmware. The file that someone sent me, did not work for the lcd was blank when I tryed other files they all or most of them error with Arduino. It took me 2 weeks to find the problem. The problem was I was trying to use the latest ver but it don't work I found some place that said the use 1.6.9 or lower or else you might get a error. One thing I found out is I don't need the bed heater for reg PLA and to use fans to keep the part cool. I turn on the bed hearer to 65-70 after the part has printed and I can remove it easy from a hot bed. Some where I ran across a setting for the flow rate but I be dang if I can find it again. I'm Using repetier host ver 1.6.2 on windows 7
Any one else around me have a 3 d printer? I would love to talk to you.

I have a design on my page with the repetier config file, the website makes it easy. Message me if you have questions.
Also welcome to the group Don.

Hello there! I wanted to post in here like 3 month ago hahaha, But I couldn't stop printing an reading about 3d printing.

My name is Javier, I'm from South Florida. I bought this printer a little more than 2 month ago, I put it together in 2 hours and start printing from there, I mostly printed upgrades for itself and some things for the house, I already made a part to fix my car (a simple design), I love it.

I took like 4 month to decide. I wanted an pre assembled printed but they was expensive... and I ended up buying this. I was shocked how quick I start printing. and in like 2 days I had a nice quality.

Welcome, I would be glad to help in case of questions.

We already had some messages, about the bed bearing :)

Welcome to the group Javier, enjoy your stay.


Hi my name is Kim and i coming from Norway. I bought my Sunhokey Prusa i3 for one week ago. After a lot of reading, i finally get this thing to work :)

Hello everyone. We recently got the sunhokey kit and decided to mess around with some flexible materials. The stock bowden setup was doomed to fail from the start. I began looking around for a direct drive carriage that would do the job and let me still use the stock extruder and linear bushings. I found one such model and printed it. After realizing that the hotend would have been much too far forward, I decided to remix it, you can find this at www.thingiverse.com/thing:1815987. Hopefully this helps everyone trying to print flex material like that sainsmart semi flex stuff I'm using. While it is currently untested, I have printed it and verified the screw and access holes. It all should work an I'll be mounting it later today. Cheers.

Hey, I'm Shane from BC, Canada. I literally just got my printer to work for the first time tonight, after many, many attempts, a new MK2B heat bed and the addition of blue tape. Definitely grateful for all the great advice in here! And I'll post some pics as I tweak it along the way.


First of all! I want to thank you very much for your very helpful input!

I do have a CD that came with the Printer. It only contains the software set up panels, a photo of the i3 printer, and a wiring location chart. The YouTube you posted for me is for the older (2015) model which I am quite sure will be the one I have! When I ordered mine it listed it as the 2015 and not the 2016!

I have emailed Sunhokey and I am a waiting a reply. In the meantime I will go to the YouTube you sent me called (Hiboson) and see if this will do the trick.

Again jclosed< I want to thank you for taking the time to help me out!!

Rob T.

Hi, my name is Rob and I just purchased the Sunhokey Prusa i3 (2015) S508 Printer

The only problem I am having right now is, I did not get an instruction manual on how to build the printer. I did email Sunhokey about, but have not heard back. I am looking forward to the build and using the printer. I am a complete novice at using 3D printers, and I am a little concerned about the set up and required software downloading.

Need to get it built first! This group and subject matter seems to be the place to be for me!! Looking forward to learning from you folks!


We followed along to a youtube video from Alans way, on his sunhokey build. Never really touched the build instructions that came with it. He was very helpful and did a quality job.

Did you not got the DVD that is part of the package?

I have build my printer on a table, with my trusty Laptop at my left hand. I do not need to say that it is a good idea to have a wide space available when building this printer?

Anyway - On the supplied DVD there are two directory's you can use. The first is Called "Installation Procedure", and contains pictures you can view in sequence that describe the whole build procedure. The next one is called "Videos" and contains short video's that show the whole build sequence. I used the last one, and paused the video's every build step.

You can also use an build sequence from a YouTuber called Hiboson. Unfortunately this is a video from an older (2015) model, so it's not fully fitting, because some parts are being replaced by the newer (2016) design . However, it is still instructive nevertheless. Take a look here: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=QH3Ozrwtfmw&list=PLKwWpCWIZu32oQLIDZva9rdffMNUz0JRl

If you really do not have the DVD, please give a notice here. I can see if I have enough space to put the video's on my DropBox storage. In that case I am afraid I first have to contact SunHokey, because I don't know if this stuff is copyrighted, and that will take some (considerable) time.


Purchased the Sunhokey 2015 back in June. Assembled and printed the Yoda head in ABS. It printed actually fairly well for a first print with the supplied filament. Everything I have printed since then has had major issues though. I have had clogging issues which I believe I have resolved. I drilled out the E3dv5 top portion where the bowden connector goes through to the heat break. I ordered a new heat break as well (all metal no PTFE liner). I replaced the Bowden Tube to 4mm OD and 2mm ID. I purchased Kapton Tape for the heat block and taped it up really well with a few layers. I also drilled out the bowden connector so the 4mm tube pushes all the way to the heat break barrel.

I plan to print in ABS only. I don't want to deal with trying to calibrate multiple filament types. I want to print out Halo Masterchief Helmet parts and everntually an Iron Man suit. I need it to be strong and not melt in the car.

I would also like to do auto bed leveling but don't know which method to use.
I want to unlock EEPROM.
I have been recommended to increase the voltage on the Extruder Driver.

I may have the temperature on the ABS too high but I'm not sure.
Does anyone have a list of all the settings for ABS?
Retraction speed and distance. I need a good baseline for this printer settings.

I ordered SCS8UU bearings so I can print a new x-carriage.

What other recommendations would yall make to improve print speed and quality for ABS?
I think the Z axis needs to be lightened what do yall think? Is there a better option than the stock acryllic side parts that hold the Z axis ends of the rods and the motors?

I appreciate any and all replies.

Hey everyone... Had this printer for a little over a month now. It was essentially a non name brand based on the Prusa i3 with acrylic frame, got it within the US with 2 rolls of gift filament (one PLA, one ABS) for $260 shipped. The parts list just showed "S-508 3D printer kit".... About a week ago I actually learned it is based on (or a clone of) the sunhokey printers. Acrylic frame, cheap e3d clone setup as bowden, pretty much everything I've seen is setup as a 2015 sunhokey. Then I started printing some parts like a 4x SCS8UU bearing mount for the X carriage, and today finally found the sunhokey Marlin firmware update which works (except the SD card is inaccessible now, "SD init fail", when it worked with stock firmware).
I have the settings dialed in and getting good (but not perfect) prints at 0.2 and 0.1 layer heights, still tweaking a little for 0.15 layer heights. I also picked up a 5 pack of nozzles with a 0.2, 0.3, 0.4, 0.5, and 0.6 in it for when I decide to play with other sizes (mostly 0.2 and 0.6 nozzles). I've run through most of the gift black PLA, ran through an entire roll of white PLA that I ordered 2 weeks ago, have 2 more rolls on order, and also have a roll of the glow in the dark PLA. I haven't touched ABS yet, but plan to within the next week. I am happy with prints that are mostly clean and maybe very minor artifacts like minor 0.03mm edge on some corners or other minor stuff like that, I understand these printers have limitations so I am not expecting perfection from a cheap printer.
Anyways thanks for having a small corner for us here!

Hello All,

I'm Daniel and I have bought as well this kit. Comes nicely and I think that it's a good start.

However first tests are pathetic ! I am looking here to see how can I improve quality.

From my notes to improve : bowden style extruder or / and this large tubing to hotend makes a lot of trouble.
First of all motor loses steps . second tubing too long and too large makes retract almost inexistent / useless.

X carriage it's pathetic. should be improved. at least another bearding should be added.

heated bed makes me crazy . even it seems that it's 3mm thick aluminium it looks to me that it's not flat. I have to buy some measuring devices to see details.

It looks that I have a lot to try and learn.


Well - you are not wrong on some things...

First of all - If you got the 3mm inside diameter Bowden tube, just get rid of it and buy a 2mm inside diameter tube. The 3mm tube gives too much room for wriggling of the 1.75mm filament. The tube is also too long. Shorten it until it has enough room for printing, but not much more than that.

Secondly - check the settings of the driver hardware for your extruder. If you know a bit of electronics and have a digital Voltage meter, you can adjust the current that is driving the stepper motor. Don't overdo it, because you can damage the driver and/or motor.

I personally have replaced the X-carriage with a 4-bearing type. Keep in mind that you have to carefully adjust the (small) angle of the bearings (by tighten the screws one-by-one, while keep checking) to keep motion smooth.

I also replaced the original heat bed with an mk3 aluminum type, and placed a boron-silicate glass plate on top. I do not use tape, but a small spray with 3dlac That last one is cheap and you only need a tiny amount to let PLA and PETG stick very well. In case of PLA you can even do several prints, before you need to re-apply. Oh - and I made a slight change to bed adjusting. In stead of turning the thumb-screws under the bed, I just turned around those screws, fixed them with a drop of super-glue, and used cross-bolt screws, so I can adjust the bed level with a simple screw driver from above. I can now comfortably adjust the bed level without pushing my fingers in the cramped space beneath the bed.

If you have some money to spare I can advise to buy the E3D V6 Lite print head. The lite version is not too expensive, and it prints a LOT better than the head supplied in the kit. The lite version is capable to print at least PLA and PETG. As it can only reach 245 degree C, printing ABS is not really in reach of this version. For that you need the (more expensive) full version.

I can say I have good to very good print results. The program I use to print is Repetier Host with Slic3r. I tried Cura, several times, but do not seem to be able get any good results from it. Sadly Slic3r is not that good with support. You have to check carefully if support is placed well, and do not use pillar support (it is fragile and prone to break or turn over before printing has finished). I have planned to buy Simplify3D, because it has much better support placement, and you can remove or add support at will. It also seems to do a better job at slicing.

Anyway - It is best is you see the kit (indeed) as starting point. You can gradually improve things, by just printing addon's and buy some cheap stuff.

Yes the head supplied in the kit is junk. Mine had a crack in it and it wanted to leak out of one of the cross holes. Their was NO chamfer on anything so the filament was all most impossible to load. Every thing else about the printer is not to bad. I'm making a new x carriage for the print head and cooling fans.

HEllo jclosed,

Thank you very much for your reply ! I was really needed some support to continue !

I wonder why original manufacturer does not read this list and why does not fix those issues !

Regarding E3D V6 Lite: I cannot imagine what could do this better. However I will buy one. Probably it's the nozzle better machined.

I didn't found borosilicate glass. I have placed a standard 2mm thick glass. But I haven't found a glue to stick to that.
I have tried with hair spray fixative but result it's not that good...

Hi dandumit,

I think the original manufacturer does read this pages, but you have to keep in mind that this is a budget printer. If they improve the printer with more expensive print heads, heat beds, glass plate, more bearings and so on, the price of the kit will increase considerably. As there is a fierce competition, they have to offer the printer for an affordable price just to stay in competition. As you see - Things are not always that easy.

Concerning the E3D V6 Lite... I was also not that convinced at first that a better head would result in a better print, but to my surprise it did. Keep in mind that you have to construct the head yourself (it is delivered as a kit), and that you have to make changes to the firmware of your control board. I suggest to use the firmware from this location: http://www.thingiverse.com/thing:1436594

If you have not much experience with updating firmware, just ask here.

BoroSilicate glass is just another name for Pyrex glass. You can buy sheets on several web sites. Often they are sold with a heat element made of fiberglass (or other copper etched material), but I strongly suggest you buy it in combination with an aluminum MK3 heath bed. This is a 3mm aluminum heath bed with the copper spiral directly etched on it (the heat bed supplied in the kit is only an 1.5 to 2 mm sheet metal with a kapton heater taped to it).

The spray I use is called 3DLAC Bed Adhesive, and it is working very well. You have to heat your bed between 55C for PLA and about 65~70C for PETG (and about 90~100C for ABS). You really have to let the bed cool down to below 30C after printing, otherwise it's very difficult to remove the printed object. And only use very little spray. If you use too much the object will stick so much it will be a hell of a job to get it off the printing table without braking it (or the table). You can find (re)sellers of this spray if you Google a bit.

MARLIN Firmware for PRUSA I3 - Sunhokey
by jlcdi

And another comment/ kind request : could you please post your slicr parameters / configuration file ?

The configuration files are not easy exportable and importable. They reside in the (hidden) /Users/Username/Appdata/Roaming/Slic3r folder (where Username is your user name of course). In this folder are 3 sub folders, named filament, print and printer. You have to drop new files in these folder, and be careful NOT to overwrite your default files.

As settings slightly vary between printer builds (because each printer has slightly different configuration) the files I have are only a very broad "guideline", and you probably have to tweak them. My filament files are based on the brands I use at this moment (Real, Apollo - both from my local supplier 123-3D.nl, and some others). The printer and printers files are even more different, because they are all based on my configuration (E3D V6 Lite, and speed settings for my stepper configuration), so use them only as an "indicator" to start with.

As I do not have an on-line storage at this moment (I will make a new directory in my Google drive), you have to wait for a while. I will publish the link if I have sorted out the profile files that are usable for you. It won't take that long, but those files are stored on the Laptop I use to drive the printer, and I am not at that location at this moment.

Thank you !
There are too many variables for me... and probably for all beginners.
I was asking you why should I upgrade firmware. I have found out that printer was pushing 80mm of filament instead of 100...
I have made necessary corrections.
Really many things to change.
I have proposed now to print a tubing duct to better cool the hotend and printed material.


Ok - I have put the files in a DropBox storage, so it is accessible for everybody to use.

Keep in mind the following things:

These files are working with the latest version of Repetier Host (version 1.6.2). If you have an older version I advise to download and install version 1.6.2.

These files are working on my system (configuration below), and with the PLA and PETG from my supplier (I have also included one PLA configuration for the free filament supplied with the kit). Printing will be a slower than with standard settings, because I have lowered the print speed (works better in my configuration) and use a layer height of 0.2mm.

My printer has corrections in the firmware to adapt to the E3D V6 lite head, correct filament flow as well as Jerk and acceleration. On top of that I have calibrated the X, Y and Z axis for consistent sizes in every spacial direction.

My printer also uses a printed circle duct fan. I strongly suggest you to indeed print and install you own duct fan, because it gives a big improvement for your prints. All the settings are based on use with this duct fan, so without that fan you will absolutely get different results than I have.

Lastly - all my settings are still highly experimental, and will be in constant adjustment to get the best results. Only use these files as starting points, and do not overwrite any file of your own setting. I strongly suggest to make an backup of your own slic3r folder, so you can restore your own settings if something goes wrong.

Here is the link: https://www.dropbox.com/sh/dox2ntt0fktcxyc/AADkN6o_y5kSqFLIUEQmDhH0a?dl=0

Hope this helps.

Thank you jclosed - you are very supportive.

Those are changes that I have made to my SunHokey :

  • Calibrated filament feed length .
  • Changed feed tube to a PFTE (teflon) 4mm outer and 2mm inner .
  • I have rebuilt the x carriage and I have added to it 4 bearings . it's from http://www.thingiverse.com/thing:1153648
  • you sugested also to buy a hotend E3D V6 Lite. I didn't wanted to do that and I have drilled on a lathe existing hotend with 4mm drill up to nozzle (trough tube adaptor , heat sink and "thermal" isolator) and pushed trough the PFTE tube exactly like in E3D V6 Lite.
  • printed a duct to cool the printed material . I am not convinced about the benefit ... http://www.thingiverse.com/thing:839620


Sunhokey Prusa i3 simpleX mod
2-in-1 fan duct: extruder and filament cooler for E3D V6 and others

You are welcome.. :-).

I hope your modified hot end will work. I personally like the E3D design. The heath element makes full contact in the block because it's clamped and not hold by a screw (resulting in better thermal contact that decrease warm-up times). Also, the thermistor is sunk-in and not applied to the surface as seen on cheaper heads. But at the end all that counts is what works best, and your approach could be working even better. Who knows?

Make sure, however, that your print head does not exceed 245 degree Celsius. That's the maximum the Teflon tube can endure if in contact with the heat block. If your temperatures go higher that Teflon will start to emit toxic fumes and will deform and even get charred.

The duct fan is a great help to avoid things like stinging, blobbing and deforming of fine structures. For a test try to print a small pyramid without the duct fan and with the duct fan. You will see that the top will deform to a blob without the fan, and gets sharp and straight when the fan is turned on.

I personally use this (slightly modified by myself) duct fan design: http://www.thingiverse.com/thing:1614553
For now without the proximity sensor mount (although I am planning to add that proximity sensor at a later date).

I probably will switch to this design at a later date: http://www.thingiverse.com/thing:800415
I will have to modify it though, to add the proximity sensor. But that will be no problem, There are a lot of (free) CAD programs available (I am testing several at this moment to see which one works best for me). For now I will use it without auto-level. I will probably go for the two duct fan version, to get optimal cooling.

Keep in mind that you probably have to run some tests to find the optimal print temperature. You have to do that for every new roll of filament you get. It takes some time and prints, but you only have to do that once every roll. Keep notes, so you can use the found settings when changing filament. Also - keep in mind that diameters of filament can vary slightly. That 1.75 mm is only a generic setting. It is best to measure the diameter with calipers and use that in your settings.

I have tested out Simplyfy3D at a friends location, and I can say I am impressed by the results. It is definitely better than Repetier, but I am not really sure it's worth that amount of money. I think I will put aside some money every month, so I can afford it later this year. I still think it's a bit strange they have no demo version. Even expensive software (like Cubase 8.5 I am using now) has trial versions. Oh well... I am glad I could at least do some test runs, so I could get a bit of an impression of the capabilities of the program.

Sunhokey Prusa I3 2015 Fan duct & Proximity sensor mount V2
by BoXon
E3D Lite6 / v6 Bowden X-Carriage Mount
by Gfunk

Hello, my name is Shawn and I am very new to this world of 3D printing but not fabricating... I am only several hours into my build so reading up on all the tricks and tips :)

I wanted to share an experience I have had so that others don't make the same error in judgment. I read somewhere in the several threads that someone recommended using BLUE THREAD-LOCKER on the bolts.... DON'T DO THIS on an ACRYLIC Printer !!! The Thread Locker will destroy the acrylic. I tried doing it on the first piece of my build and within a few hours the cracking started and within a day, the piece was breaking up. Had to do some fancy fabricating to get the block assembled and the first thing I am going to print once build is complete is a new motor mount for my Z axis...

Hello my name is Eduard,

I assembled a Sunhokey Prusa i3 like four month ago. Today, after a lot of troubles, I will say I have a decent printer.

There is still weird things happening in each print, but... dealing with them.

I have been going through the posts in the group and there is really interesting information. I will be sharing my expereciences and look for the topics there are.


Hello Dalo,

Sorry to hear that after 4 months you are still not satisfied with it.
What does it means ? don't you obtain constant results ?

Kind regards,

Hi my name is Daniel. I recently got into micro controller projects with the Arduino Uno and Raspberry Pi 3 and soon after was fascinated by 3D printing. A month ago I found a great deal on 3dprinteronlinestore and had to act. I am now the owner of a Sunhokey Prusa i3.

I can already tell just from a quick browse of this group that joining it will prove to be very beneficial. I am excited to learn about all things 3D printing and hope to one day be able to give back and assist someone new to the hobby like myself.

I've a prusa i3 sunhokey s-508 of 2015.
I designed and made a support to enhance y axis motor, but I don't know how to upload it on thingiverse.

To upload use a computer based browser and navigate to top of Thingiverse page navigation bar. You should see Create/Upload option and click it. On next page click Browse to add your STL and/or JPEG files and fill in information about your item before hitting Publish button.

Thanks ! I'lldo that soon.

Hi there, my name is Terry, living in Minnesota, US. My Sunhokey printer is on order and according to the UPS website, it should be delivered tomorrow. This will be my first venture into the 3D printing world, so basically a complete newby. I have been educating myself on 3D CAD with FreeCAD on my Ubuntu based machines as well as 123D on the Windows box. Also do dry runs with Cura and installed Repetier when I ordered the printer. So, if all goes well, by tomorrow at this time I should be deep into the construction of my printer.

Hi Guys,

My name is Mo and I received my 2016 Sunhokey Prusa i3 last Saturday. So it's been a week since i had it. The build was ok once you jump back an forth from the supplied DVD and the youtube videos. The video's by, I think his name is Alan, were great.

This is my first printer, and to be honest it was not my intention to get into 3D printing myself if it was not for an engineering project i'm engaged in. We need to 3D print functional parts. Shopping for printing rates proved to be ridiculous, since we're extremely low on cash. A $100 for a 7 hour printing job. We need at least 12 parts printed. So, i figured, let's buy something cheap. Print the parts and be over with it. Not.

After messing with the bed, the board temps, the extruder steps and whatnot, PLA went great. ABS is a pain. It's sticking, but not being able to store the Estep setting into the firmware, means you need to remember to punch in the numbers before each print. Otherwise, you'll end up cancelling jobs half way through because you're under extruding. I read about enabling the EEPROM thing, but i just want the parts printed asap.

First part is being printed now. According to Simplify3D it's a 10 hour job. Had to run it slow, since whatever I do to speed the print up, the extruder can not seem to follow. Which actually makes me wonder;
1) What is the longest print this printer can handle without it or its components going up in flames?
2) Have you guys ever had that extruder gear pop out by itself? It happened to me just now. So I had to re-calibrate the nozzle to start at the height where it popped off initially. I don't want to lose a good looking print after 4 hours of printing.

Anyways, The group and the topics have proven valuable to me and I hope I can contribute to it.

Just to let you know you're not alone. My extruder drive gear popped off too. Tightened it up well and has not been a problem.

Hi spreadermo,

First of all - When you wanted a complete hassle fee printer you could had forked out a bit more money and bought a Wanhao duplicator i3. That is a simple 3-parts printer that is already "somewhat" calibrated and gives reasonable prints "out of the box". I guess you already thought about that, so I assume you wanted a kit that give more "tweak" capability's.

If that's the case - The Sun Hokey i3 is not a bad choice at all. It s a very decent printer, and give a lot of opportunity to tweak you heart out. That last hing can be a bit of a blessing and a curse. If you know what you are doing you can improve the print quality massively with little cost. For starters - replace the 2-baring print head carriage for a 3, or even 4 bearing version. Those bearings are very inexpensive, and you can print out the carriage yourself.

Next - replace the original Bowden tube, that is a 4mm outer and 3mm inner tube, by an 4mm outer and 2mm inner tube. As you are using 1.75mm filament, this is far more fitting and gives less wiggle room for the filament, resulting in better extrusion quality.

About "popping out" of the extrusion gear.. Do you mean the Bowden tube pops out of the connection? That does not suppose to happen. Maybe you are extruding at a much to fast rate and building up a too high pressure? Let me know what is happening exactly..

Anyway - Back to the subject. I made the decision to replace the original print head for a E3D V6 Lite version. This is a relatively cheap print head that give very high quality prints. It cannot handle temperatures higher than 245 degree Celsius, but that's more than enough for PLA and even ABS or PETG.

I have no idea how long the printer can run without "catching fire" or something dramatically like that. In normal use, with adequate cooling I guess it could run forever (or until the build plate is full and/or you are out of filament). There are people that had problems with a connection melting, or the heath bed going "up in smoke", but when you did the construction in a adequate way, I do not think you should have problems with those connections. I do recommend however to replace the DC power cable for a more heavy type (thicker wiring). Replacing the heath bed for a MK3 aluminum heath bead with a boron-silicate glass sheet is worth a consideration.

Now about the firmware setting. If you connect the printer with a USB cable, you can change the firmware the way you like. As a matter of fact, it is almost needed to get really optimal results. Calibrating the printer will improve your prints (and make them more accurate). To do that, you need the latest Sun Hokey firmware (you can find the latest version on this site) and the Arduino software to flash this firmware. You can also enable EEPROM with this same software by change some settings in the configuration file. However - keep in mind that you have to do some reading to understand what you have to do.

I have this printer myself for a month by now, and I am very pleased with it after the few improvements and calibration I have done. I just received my first 1Kg rol of PETG today, and it prints out very good. I had a few little problems with the first layer sticking, but after tweaking the heath bed settings it seems to work now.

Anyway -welcome here, an I hope you will have as much of fun with the printer as I have.

Thanks jclosed,

I indeed looked at the wanhao but somehow reasoned that they both are the same except for the frame. Would you recommend purchasing the wanhao (if cash is available)?

As for the extruded gear popping out, I mean the gear with teeth that pulls the filament from the roll. It just popped out. I have now tightened both set screws. So let's see.

As for mods, I think you're right. I'll be purchasing some bearings and a heated bed.

Well the first part printed fine last night (10hrs plus that annoying stop because of popped out gear). I still feel that the ABS supplied with this printer is crapish. I printed this same part 4 times now. 1 pla and 3 abs. The pla part is still much more stiffer and just better. All the abs parts are fragile, brittle and weak.

Hmmm... that depends. The Wanhao has a metal frame, and could be more stable and rigid . Reviews are good for this machine. However - you already have the Sun Hokey printer, and with a bit of tweaking I think you will get very decent results that are on par (or even better than) with the Duplicater. I do not think buying a complete new machine (that's probably less tweakable) is very productive now. If you want to try out something different is is much more productive to look at another printing concept, like a delta machine. Mind you - I no way I want to say a delta is better (it can even be far more worse), but if you like to experiment with 3D printing (like I do) you can take other printing concepts in consideration.

That drive gear popping out seems a montage fault to me. I guess they have forgotten to tidy the screws before sending the kit. It is certainly new to me, but.. well.. things happen sometimes... ;-)

I have no experience with ABS (yet), because it give off fumes that are not that great in a living room. I think I will wait until summer before trying this material. By then the temperature outside is high enough to open windows and doors for ventilation. Anyway - I have read that if ABS come out brittle you have to increase the printing temperature (to about 230 degrees) and make sure the feed is about 100%. You should also calibrate the extruder output. Here is a video that explains it very well: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=YUPfBJz3I6Y

I do not fully agree with Thomas that calibrating your X and Y axis (as he tells you in another video- not this one) makes no sense. I agree that fine-tuning beyond the capability's of your machine makes no sense, but what does make sense is at least making the x and y ratio the same. You do not want to print circles as ovals don't you?

Anyway - It is possible to get very accurate results from CAD design to printout, using this Sun Hokey printer. If you calibrate right, I doubt you will get better results with another printer in the same price range. You probably always need to file a bit to make things really tight. If you really want spot-on (0.01mm or lower) results you are looking at industrial-grade 3D printers that are far out of range for the hobbyist.

I hope this is helpful..

It could work, but if you already ordered a MK3 heated bed that construction adds nothing.

You see - The MK3 heated bed is a sheet aluminum with the heating element integrated on top (or bottom if you turn it around) of it. That construction from Amazone is a separate heater and a sheet of aluminum that will be bound together to get the same result. In this case you win nothing, because the MK3 is a cheaper complete solution. The only gain would be that you can keep the aluminum plate in the rare occasion the heath element should burn out.

What does make sense however, is mounting a warmth insulator under the MK3 heath bed. A plate of cork or similar type of heath insulation works fine. That way you do not radiate heath to places that do not make sense. With that heat insulator you also get shorter warm-up times, and thus you spend less time waiting until the bed reached the needed temperature.

Thanks jclosed,

Would you paste a link of the MK3 from Amazon or eBay. I can't seem to find the correct one plus I need it fast just in case.

Hmm - I don't know where you are located, but here is one from RepRap.me:

And eBay:

Hope that's enough, but if not - Just follow the other links below the selling page.

Oh.. And borosilicate is just another name for 'Pyrex glass" .. ;-).

Thanks mate.
I'm located in Singapore.

6 pcs printed good, 6 to go.

Hatchbox filament and E3Dv6 arriving tomorrow.

Still didn't pull the trigger on the heated bed.

Thanks jclosed,

Calibrated X,Y,Z and E and adjusted the Vref on the stepper drivers with the following numbers:
Vref= 0.8v (measured between GND and pot)

Doing this definitely helped. Also setting the extruder temp to 260c worked great for that free supplied ABS roll.
3 prints have finished successfully. 4th is in progress now. 8 to go.

I am getting the following as mods/additions just in case

1) E3D v6 1.75mm kit (12v)
2) 2x of those long Z-axis bearing blocks to use on the X-carriage (guess will help with that play)
3) MK3 heated bed with 19x19 boroscilcate or whatever it's called glass
4) Hatchbox ABS filament
5) PTFE tube 4mm od/ 2mm id

Thanks again.

Greetings everyone and great to meet you all!

I'm Jason, and I'm the proud owner of a brand new Sunhokey Prusa i4 (i3 Plus) unit which arrived less than 2 weeks ago. > http://tinyurl.com/gtau6ke

Primarily working in the digital print industry, I got involved with 3D printing since September of last year when I put together an Electron Prusa i3 unit for a family member. We bought the Electron i3 purely as a 'DIY hobby' to see how the whole thing was put together from scratch. Took me half a day to do, but it was an absolutely blast to say the least and I learnt a heck of a lot out of the whole experience. Now I'm more fully immersed with the whole 3D print thing and have started to design and make my own mod parts, starting with the Electron which I am currently modding. The Sunhokey is actually the 5th 3d printer that my family has bought - we also have a Cel Robox, a Flashforge and a Rapide 200XL which are all pre-built.

I have to say the Sunhokey i4 is an extremely competent and well-made machine. Initial tests I've done have shown the new unit's design to be a significant improvement over the Prusa i3 design, resulting in really high quality printouts right from the start. Apart from a new XY linear guide, it also has a X-axis rotation motor/wing design, and a much more stable Z-axis so has no Z wobble.

Well - Let's Introduce myself then ;-).

I am completely new to all the 3D printing stuff, so I have some catch up to do. As I have studied electronics and am familiar with programming, I think it will not take that much time.

I own the latest Prusa i3 model from Sunhokey for about almost two weeks now, and so far I am very pleased with it. I already made some modifications to the X-carriage. I was not too pleased with the two-bearing original, because it was too wobbly in my opinion. So my first print (apart from the calibration cubes and some fun stuff) was a new X-carriage with 4 bearings. I also replaced the E3D V5 clone (could be the original but I have some doubts) with a E3D V6 Lite version, and replaced the 3mm tube with a 2mm one. The improvements are really noticeable.

So far I have using the supplied tape op the aluminum heat bed, and together with a glue stick all my models stick very well to the plate. The plate is flat enough to do serious printing, but I still think about placing a glass sheet on it to improve flatness.

I have experimented with some settings in slic3r, and am using Repetier Host for printing. That seems to work well, but I also going to try out Cura. I have also read something about Simplify3D, but it seems to be very expensive. Also they have no demo version, so I cannot try out the software before buying it, and that makes me uneasy about it. I also will do some model design, and already have downloaded 123 Design and FreeCAD to play around with.

The supplied filament in the kit is not that bad at all, and I was able to mad some good quality prints with it. I also use some PLA from a local supplier. But, as I have just received it, I am still in the process of finding the optimal settings for this type of PLA. I have not tried to print ABS so far. As it gives off fumes, and the printer is standing in the living room, it does not seems to be a good idea (maybe some people that have experience with ABS can comment on that?). I also want to try out PETG, as that seems to be a good material too.

Probably the next thing I will take a look at, is the Bowden extruder. I am not that sure the feed rate is optimal, so I going to take some measurements to see if I have to adjust the firmware (lucky enough Sunhokey has given us the latest version).

So - I have a lot to learn, and a lot of experimenting to do the coming weeks. But I like that, and it's lots of fun too.

Hi I'm an educator and have been long interested in the 3d printing world am very happy i found other people who own the same make as my printer !

pretty happy with it about 24 hours in just trying to work out some kinks with my vicarious understanding of 3d printers *99% youtube vids 1% ohh ahh'ing at a davinchi in B&N

looking to further my understanding of this to make 3d printing accessible to local schools by creating PET filament to help make it an accessible hobby to kids who afford to fork out the cash.

Currently seeking some good visual demonstrations of G code introduction and specifically some information on altering Repetier to drop my temps for prints as at 210 my nozzles leaking like a Pavlovian dog and general advice on upgrades to get smoother higher deg prints anything pertaining to improved resolution / comparable nozzles would be a real help!

Edit How do you stop the stepper bar from screeching ?

3D-printing would be a nice hobby to kids. However, with a Chinese $250 USD printer it's a bit of a challenge, those can be quite bitchy.
G-code itself is quite simple, explained here: http://reprap.org/wiki/G-code again, this might be a challenge lets say to like a fourth grader or younger.

In Repeteir you can only change the nozzle temp between the first and the rest of the layers (?) but in S3D you can define the nozzle temp for every single layer if you want to. Causes of oozing: bad filament, too little/slow retraction or too high nozzle temp.

I have no experience of PET plastic, but AFAIK, PLA is the easiest plastic to start with and ABS aint that difficult either.

Cheers from Sandy Shores.

S3D is another type of firmware i can run on the sunhokey ? so possibly lowering my nozzle temp towards the end layers could prevent the caving in i am getting ?

S3D is a slicer/control software but not firmware. Firmware is the parameters uploaded onto the ROM on the printer itself, where S3D sends commands to the printer to work with those parameters...hopefully I explained that well enough.

Now S3D or maybe kiss slicer you can split the print into parts so you could have layers 1-200 in one process and 201-250 in another and that 2nd part you can have at X speed. Check out Joel the 3D printing nerds videos.

Do you have a fan on the prints if its PLA?

so the host program runs the printer and i can just allocate S3D as it's slicer ?

I have the sunhokey as it is no upgrades printed yet

As the user Layerz said, Simplify3D is a commercial all-in-one software to control the printer and slicing the model.
I like it way more better than Repetier host or Pronterface.
Not sure if theres a free trial, but I think it's not that expensive either

I havent much experience with PLA, but isn't 200C a little bit too hot?

i agree with you there i think im till tweaking the temp on this PLA i figured the colorant put the temp up but its florescent green i grabbed S3D thanks for the link!


I am yet another tech enthusiast with great passion for making stuff, so it was inevitable to join the 3d printing community :) My Sunhokey Prusa i3 2016 is the printer I bought after some research in the topic. Overall I am very pleased with my purchase (even so given the fact that I have not yet completed a single print successfully) however as every beginner I have some issues you might be able to help me out:

1)I have issues sticking my print to the print platform(I know of the regular solutions - painters blue tape and UHU glue, however I think my issue might be tilted print platform or something else), it looks like the filament gathers at the nozzle, or sometimes nozzle digs into previous layers(not sure if I am seeing it correctly, more likely the print is not stick to the platform so the end that is in the air is higher, therefore the object gets tilted and that is why the nozzle pushes into previous layer).
My version of the printer comes with the heater glued to aluminum plate, so I have no glass on the bed - I did placed blue tape on the aluminum as it is too polished. Should I put UHU glue on the blue tape(have not yet tried that)?
I have several attempts to print, however most of those were not stuck well enough. I tried raising the bed temp from 50 to 70 - almost the same result, maybe a bit better. I tried adding a raft - the result is bit better, and I lowered the speed for the first layers at 20, my regular speed is 40 and my infill speed is 50 (honeycomb, 20%)
Possible issue might be the one described in point 2 below, since when the nozzle is heated at the set temp, it goes to X0Y0 and then to the center of the build plate to start the print - at that time, there is a blob of gathered filament that is left on the build plate, and it is screwing my prints (I pull it manually most of the time if I am able to)(starting when at X0Y0 it is already leaking)

2)I have "oozing" problems - my filament is leaking a bit even when the printer is not printing - I taught that this might be due to temperature, so I lowered it from 220(PLA) to 200. Same thing occurs - I am using the Chinese no-brand PLA that came with the printer ("lucky me" I have 6 kg of that PLA, and another 2kg of same type of ABS) Should I lower the temp even more? (I am afraid of clogging the nozzle if I push the filament too cold in it, not sure if true)

3)I have issues with the Teflon tube for the bowden at the entrance of the hot end - some times the tube pops out of the hotend and then the bowden pushes the filament but it does not goes to the hot end. I had a print that I managed to clean of the nozzle oozing at the raft print and was going perfectly but my teflon tube popped out and when I saw it there were several layers of "printing without filament", so my print got screwed :(
Is there a way I can secure the tubing at the hotend?

Additional setup info at the moment:
Nozzle - 0.4
Filament - 1.75
Z res - 200microns

If you need anything else as information in order to help me out I would be more than glad to add it. Thank you!

1) The heatbed flatness and the heatbed itself of this printer is a piece of crap, that's the 1st thing to change.
You can 1st put a 200X200 glass on it to compensate.

2) To avoid oozing, you'll have to play with retractation, wipe, coast at end and percentage of extrusion parameters.
They are totally different depending material, brand of the material, length of ptfe tube, nozzle layer thickness and width... I 've printed more than 1kg roll for calibration parts before finding my best settings and now I'm perfect with 0.1 but constantly have small blobs in corners @ 0.2mm...

Settings aren't the same if you print in vase mode or standard mode etc...
You'll need time and tests.
Welcome in complexity of the 3D printer world.

Hello, everybody,

I'm Boris, from Russia. I've got same model as most of you, year 2015.

What I already did is changed the firmware, moved from Mariln to Repetier. The reason was to have Repetier firmware on printer and Repetier Host. Than you can easily access EEPROM and change values, no need to enter G-codes. User VAFER helped me by sending his working configuration.h file. In turn I would be glad to help someone else who will like to install Repetier firmware.

Now trying to develop the "ideal" X-carriage:
1/ ball bearings like http://www.thingiverse.com/thing:1149490 (benefit: smooth rolling)
2/ compact design like http://www.thingiverse.com/thing:818852 (benefit: big print area, print hight)
3/ filament cooler like http://www.thingiverse.com/thing:714939 (benefit: small, good air flow)
4/ auto bed level like http://www.thingiverse.com/thing:1147284 (benefit: small sensor, will not increase the total carriage size)
but I'm not sure I will manage to modify the firmware, can't find guides)
5/ or typical inductive sensor (benefit: Tom's guide how to install is available, but sensor is big).

Obstacles to overcome:
new design of ball bearings (1) which will not "play" over time,
find the manual how to set up firmware for pibot optical hight sensor (4) or tightly add inductive sensor (5) to compact design (2).
Ideas and help are appreciated.

Bearing block for 8mm (or 5/16") shafts/round rails
Sunhokey X-Carriage Fan Holder and Mod to Maximize Build Height Z-200mm
Sunhokey Prusa I3 fan nozzle cooler Filament
Upgraded X-carriage for Sunhokey Prusa i3 - Integrated fans, 20mm extra Z-range and PiBot optical height sensor.

Hi Boris, welcome!
Regarding the pibot sensor: I haven't used it myself, but from what I understand, it acts like the z endstop, so there's no firmware update needed. You just plug it into the z endstop connection and figure out the exact height it's at (the 3.6 current height in the example)
So it's not as advanced as "true" auto leveling, but it's a good in-between.

Hi, my name is Trevor Philips and I don't own a Sunhokey prusa, but an equal piece of Chinese s*** (forgot the actual "brand")
It came with a Melzi board.
I have upgrade all the electronics (ATX power supply, Arduino MEGA 2560, RAMPS 1.4, CNC board for the extra stepper driver, RepRap.me Diamond hotend, 0.9 degree motors, ALU heatbed, bluetooth, auto bed-level etc.)
Running Marlin FW and Simplify3D software/slicer.
I got the printer some 6 months ago and immediately started modifying it. It was just good enough to print upgrade parts to itself.

Hi all, I'm Peter. I built my printer during the Christmas break. I'm slowly learning what goes into good 3D prints. Overall I'm very satisfied with the printer and Sunhokey's support.

The main problem I haven't been able to fix yet is oozing (Sunhokey provided PLA). I've tried increasing retraction, but that doesn't seem to change a lot. I think my next best option is to replace the nozzle, which I may do later this year. Any other ideas?

Reduce your extruder temperature. That will help also.

Hi Guys, my name is Evros and i'm an owner of a Sunhokey 2015 model. I'm pretty satisfy with it after few upgrades i've done.

Hi there, new to this forum and 3D printing. Very new and struggling with some of the terminology and how to's relating to Firmware etc.

I just built my Sunhokey only to find that the menu screen is not responding. When I turn the printer on, it shows the home screen with the temps and "Prusa I3 ready" but when I press the dial knob in, nothing happens. In short it does not seem to want to open the menu. The main power is plugged in and this is with and without the USB cable plugged in. What is the cause of this? Sorry if this has been asked before, I am pulling my hair out.

Someone suggested that the problem could be with the selector so I pressed a screwdriver to the pins on the left of the set of pins for the selector (on the back of the PCB) but nothing happened.

Can you control the printer through Repetier Host? If that works, it seems very likely it's an issue with either the knob itself or with the cable that connects it to the MKS board.


My name is Peter and I own a Sunhokey Prusa I3. I've had it for a couple months now and had to do some required upgrades. I've assisted a close friend in assembling his own sunhokey as well. I've received my induction sensors today so will be doing the auto-leveleing soon.


Hi all,

my name is Dominik and I am from Switzerland. I have bought a Sunhokey Prusa i3 from Aliexpress and received it last week. I have some issues and hope to find a solution in this group.

It is my first 3D Printer and I want to use it to build a word clock.

Happy to be here.

Kind regards


I am Ian from Canada.

Some notes:
The heated end is not assembled correctly. Take it apart and de-burr it. I chased the threads while I was at it (there is a good tutorial if you hunt for it - there is a link on this page http://www.instructables.com/id/Sunhokey-2015-Prusa-i3-DIY-Kit/). The heat break must stop the tip from seating against the block so it seals. I torque the tip once at temp.

The fan is in the wrong place. It is too low and will cool the heat block. For my first print I made a shroud to keep the air off it using some tin foil between the fan and the cooling fins. All prints before that were failures. I now have two shrouds (1 for ABS that cools the object being printed and one that just cools the hot end for PLA). Mine uses a single fan at the moment while I wait for a second one to arrive.

The E-Steps are wrong. Measure and adjust. Mine is at 93.7 from 80.5 (yours will be different I'm sure).

To backup your firmware, use the following commands (I'm running Linux, YMMV):
avrdude -p m2560 -v -c stk500v2 -P /dev/ttyUSB0 -b 115200 -F -U flash:r:"prusa_i3_backup.hex":r
avrdude -p m2560 -v -c stk500v2 -P /dev/ttyUSB0 -b 115200 -F -U eeprom:r:"prusa_i3_backup.eep":r
avrdude -p m2560 -v -c stk500v2 -P /dev/ttyUSB0 -b 115200 -F -U lfuse:r:"prusa_i3_backup.lfuse":r
avrdude -p m2560 -v -c stk500v2 -P /dev/ttyUSB0 -b 115200 -F -U hfuse:r:"prusa_i3_backup.hfuse":r
avrdude -p m2560 -v -c stk500v2 -P /dev/ttyUSB0 -b 115200 -F -U efuse:r:"prusa_i3_backup.efuse":r

Lookup how to use the command, it is good to know.

I will upload my thing files later...

Hi, i am from France, i bought my sunhokey on 12/15, this is my first printer, it just took me 4 try and calibration work to print a correct square frame, just after that i have print a phone holder that you can see on my thingiverse page. i am super happy with this printer but the next thing i will do is a box because it make noise, no problem noise but the it is just normal loud noise, cannot sleep with that. Wish you all a good time for new year party !

Johnny from Canada. Just received my Sunhokey i3 2015 edition and looking forward to building it. Only problem is the SD card with the instructions was not in the box. Anyone have a copy they can send to me via dropbox?

Hi - Was it not a CD and printed one (bought few monthes ago)? There is too a really active group on fb with Sunhokey printer what help normally immediately: http://www.facebook.com/groups/sunhokeyprusai3owners

I ordered this one two weeks ago. $339 and change with shipping, taxes, and duty. Two weeks from China at this time of year is amazing! As it turned out, they shipped me an empty SD adapter in a sealed package and had installed the micro SD, with the instructions and software, in the slot on the Melzi board. There was a piece of tape on the package that read "SD Card, put in control board". There was no other documentation in the box. I discovered it only while examining the board for solder bridges. It all turned out well. Spent 7 hours building today and am ready to fire it up tomorrow morning. Should have been less time but the instructions were outdated and some new parts have been introduced. The x axis idler chassis 3D printed part was quite deformed and took a bit of work to get everything aligned. Still may need some work. All in all I'm pretty happy so far. We'll see how happy I am after calibrating tomorrow.

Hi all Daniel from NZ just ordered one of these machines I am plan for big upgrades.

i wish we could post pictures in here, like of a wiring set up on our board ....

Comment has been deleted

Hi, I'm Jean, living in France and will receive my sunhokey next week.
I'm reading this area since a week and now, I'm ready to join the team.

Now trying to play with DS Mechanical (how it's hard for someone who never touch 2D before).

I'm fully beginer in 3D printers universe but I like the DIY ;-)

Nice to meet you.

Hello friends. My name is Tom and I'm from Poland. I'm a mechatronics engineer, and also a DJ :) A week ago I've build my Prusa i3 Sunhokey 2015 from DIY kit. I'm a newbie in 3D printing, I have some small issues with my printer- hardware and software, but I'm trying to resolve it step by step. I'm using Autodesk Fusion 360 for MAC to design things, Meshmixer to convert project to *.stl and Cura/Slic3r + Repetier-Host software. actually quality of my printed objects in my opinion are 5/10, but I'm still reading how to, and going to achieve 10/10 in future. Currently I have MKS Gen-2Z V1.2 (but I can't read the firmware version?). At first I'm going to replace the LM08UU for those better quality, because the stock (Chinese?) bearings are making weird sounds and in my opinion are too loose, I'm going to add some extra 1 or 2 SMA08GUU bearings on the X axis carriage to make it more stable, next point is to add some holders with ball bearings for Z axis threaded rods, and many other things... :)

Best regards and have a nice day.

To backup your firmware, use the following commands (I'm running Linux, YMMV):
avrdude -p m2560 -v -c stk500v2 -P /dev/ttyUSB0 -b 115200 -F -U flash:r:"prusa_i3_backup.hex":r
avrdude -p m2560 -v -c stk500v2 -P /dev/ttyUSB0 -b 115200 -F -U eeprom:r:"prusa_i3_backup.eep":r
avrdude -p m2560 -v -c stk500v2 -P /dev/ttyUSB0 -b 115200 -F -U lfuse:r:"prusa_i3_backup.lfuse":r
avrdude -p m2560 -v -c stk500v2 -P /dev/ttyUSB0 -b 115200 -F -U hfuse:r:"prusa_i3_backup.hfuse":r
avrdude -p m2560 -v -c stk500v2 -P /dev/ttyUSB0 -b 115200 -F -U efuse:r:"prusa_i3_backup.efuse":r

This command I think comes with the Arduino IDE. You should also be able to read the firmware version with it. I have the same board you do and this works for me. It will print out most information in the terminal window during export...

hi guys i'm Mario. I'm studying architecture in Genova, Italy. I just recived my brand new Prusa and it's my firs attempt with 3dprinting. I'm scared :D

Ciao Mario, don't be scared!! 3d Printing is an amazing experience, in this group you will find many useful information to get the best from your Sunhokey Prusa i3. You can also join the facebook group at
Steve (Italian living in overseas)

Hello everyone, my name is Einar, and I got my printer back in August and I've been really happy with it (especially after I replaced the filament that came with the printer...) I now use mostly PLA on blue tape on a cold bed.. I can't wait for something to break around the house so I can go and print a replacement...

So far I've made a few modifications such as replacing the x carriage http://www.thingiverse.com/thing:818852 to go with the larger SCS8LUU bearings.
I also enabled auto bed leveling using a capacitance proximity sensor but I placed it exactly behind the hot end (on the other side of the X carriage, attached to the lower SCS8LUU) that way I can probe the bed in all 4 corners of the bed at the exact same locations where the hot end would reach.

Up next in my modifications list is multiple-extrusion. I would like a single nozzle setup like the Cyclops (2) or the Diamond (3) hot-ends. Anybody have any experience with either of these?

Ohh, I also don't want to replace the controller board that came with the printer nor add external stepper controllers.. :)
So I'll have to drive multiple extruders with a single stepper! I've seen a design that uses 1 stepper + 1 servo but that won't work with 3 or even 4 extruders, so I'm thinking maybe I'll use some micro electromagnetic clutches and drive them on and off... Maybe easier said than done?!?

Until next time, happy printing!

Sunhokey X-Carriage Fan Holder and Mod to Maximize Build Height Z-200mm

Hi I am Ulrik and from Denmark , I have had my printer for almost 3 months now , I have printed some small upgrades for it , from the group here and now i am gonna change the frame for a metal P3Steel one , because I have only had problems with my frame
I have background as a carmechanic and I have work as a metalwork and worked a little with cnc to

Hi every one im Simon just a every day normal guy, got the printer last week played whit it since then.The processe of building the printer went pretty smooth (i think sunhokey fix the instruction issue).

I almost finish the the plastic they give whit the printer and i found that printing PLA is alot easier than ABS i have slot of warping and bad layer adesion on bigger print,maybe i dont have enough print under my belt yet.

I got printer to introduce myself to cnc machine, i want to build a cnc milling in the future.
For now i try improving the printer for better speed and acuracy.

im very new to desing but i have fun playing whit solidworks i got a few things upload if you want to witness my very first desing parts.

peace every one lets build a new world one layer at a time

Hi there fellow sunhokey owners !
I just finished building the printer yesterday and am now working on calibration.
I must say that the default settings are pretty good, after only calibrating the bed level, my first test cube was exactly 20x20mm on x/y, only z was 21mm. https://goo.gl/photos/U7w29AJAop5aUUdx7
Printed my first 'larger' object; a fan bracket for the MKS board, as the drivers get quite hot; https://goo.gl/photos/CCLXzqnry1kMDeLUA
There definitely are some issues here, need to test if a faster retraction speed will reduce stringing and it looks like there is a little too much extruded sometimes. Maybe lower temperature from the default 230, which seems quite high..
So many parameters to tweak :-)


just have a look at the troubleshoot guide from Simplify3d - helped me a lot!


Thanks, that's a very useful site!

Also their software - best of all.

Their software has a lot of features, looks good.
Except for the price tag.. I'm not spending $150 on software for a $255 printer..
I'm an open source fan, but there is a lot of options to choose from and none are perfect :-)

I thought that too. Then I bought their software. Worth every penny at $220 CDN!

Hello, my fellow Sunhokey Prusa i3 3D printer owners!

My name is Martin, I studied CNC metalworking in a proffesional high school, but never worked as CNC operator (liked it, but didn't want a 9-5 job like that). A year ago our company bought simple CNC milling router to time I make some custom parts. In simple college I studied mechatronics, but that went in and straight out of my head. Not that kind of memory unfortunatley (or maybe slight touch of learning dissability). I remember what i did physically, what changes i made to what, where I put what. It's hard for me to concentrate and look for a solution in long text or try to remember al that I read. So I'm glad that there is a lot of "How to" videos :D
I'm fortunate enough that I work with my father (talented self taught engineer) as a partner in our family company and I have a opportunity in office to do my job and tinker with stuff that interests me.

A couple weeks ago I got, as it turns out, this surprisingly decent machine. As I had none experience with 3D printers, I expected (at this price) it to do a lot worse job as than it actually does. The price was good enough just to try out this "3D printing stuff".
For now I'll just say that I immediately bought E3D V6 hotend and a bunch of, at least for me, interesting filaments.

When I'll get myself together (not the blogging type) and learn a bit more about printing, I'll try to share my successes and failures, maybe some improvements on printer and let's hope it'll help some other 3D printer users as this group had helped me with some tips and ideas about printer upgrades. Great to see this kind of comunity.

Let's have ourselves an excellent 3D printing experience!
Have a great day!

P.S. Love how a simple thing as gluestick does it's job good, holding part to heatbed.

For now I'm using the original heatbed.

Question- Any tips how to improve first outer perimeter adhesion? First and sometimes second layer often comes loose. Will try to play with speeds and extrusion widths for now.

And also... Best way to clean gluestick glue, without scratching?

Tried to print fan duct with unknown manufacturer 20USD/1kg PLA filament. Layer height 0.3mm, default Sunhokey speeds, wall thickness - 2 perimeters.

Hi Everyone,

I haven't visited our group lately due to busy schedule... but hey, I wanna welcome all the new members of our group and I hope we can help each other in mastering our machine... keep in touch everyone and enjoy printing!


Hello !

finally im printing with this sunhokey !
after some adjustements the quality is very good with pla


First layer 240 deg then rest 203 deg. Heating bed 70 deg. Layer 0.27. Speed 3800. cooling fan after second layer.

i use Simplify3d for generate the code with this sunhokey, this is the best program, you can simulate with !
the calculation in 50x faster as replicator G and no errors or glitching.

Hi, I'm Will and just bought one of these after a disappointment with a much more expensive Prusa kit. I've done a little basic calibration but I'm sure there is still plenty of room for improvement.

This is my first serious test print and I'm pleased it printed off ok


Printed at 0.2 layer height 50mm/s sliced in cura as slic3r crashed 2 different computers, took a little over 3.5 hrs to print. Just using the white PLA that came with the kit and a 12cm fan to one side. Looking forward to getting a proper cooling fan installed as the cooled side came out better. White always shows up any defects and there's no attempt by me to clean up the part or the photo. It was really hammering away round the perimeter too so I'm sure the right settings would help. Anyway I'm pleased so far as at least this one can make it through a print :)

Hey guys what's up. My name is John and I built my sun hokey this past Saturday. I'm a student, I work in a 3D printlab at my college and I freelance with Solidworks. I love opensource and reprap and what it's done for my field :) happy to have built a reprap and I can't wait to upgrade it incrementally! I especially would like to go dual extruder soon since I have access to left over soluble support material and the chemical bath in which to dissolve it.

Hey guys, my name is Vidyuth and I got my Sunhokey about a month ago. I was really excited, and I built it as soon as I got it. However, I ran into several problems. First, my extruder won't heat up at all. When I tell the heating bed and the extruder to heat up, only the bed heats up. Another problem I am facing right now is that when I set the printer to auto home, the extruder lowers down too much. It compresses the bed and it damaging the extruder. I am also having problems with the endstops. If any of you guys know how to fix these problems, please reply. Thank you

Hi.. I am Gurmeet from India. Did you cross checked the wiring for the extruder and endstops.?

Hey Gurmeet! I was working on my printer when the one of the end stops stopped working. So I ordered a new one with a cable because I couldn't diagnose the problem. So the new end stops arrived today and after playing around a little bit I realized that the end stop wasn't broken....it was the wire that prevented it from working. So now I can't find any replacements for it and I have to work with what I have. I got a new wire with the new end stop and I can't seem to figure out how to get it to work. The new wire is a 4 way cable with a connector. How can I wire this? Thanks!!

the cable of the endstop has 4 way connector but has only 3 wire. The connector are polarized..this means they can be connected only in one direction.
Did you check the continuity of the cable wires?

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Do you have the MKS gen 2z board?
Did you checked the voltage at the extruder heater pins when you heat it and when its idle.?
Did you try adjust the z endstop screw?
There are two pins on the board for each end stops with + and - sign, try swaping them.

Yeah I do.
How do I check the voltage at the extruder heater pins?
Yes I have tried adjusting it
ok ill try swaping them

You can check the voltage with a multimeter. Get it from your local electrical store.
If posible can u upload a pic of your board wiring and z probe setup.

See the above link for the image of the board layout..

The extruder pinout is circled with red on left. Check it with yours

The x y and z probe pins are circled on right, notice that all 3 have both + and - sign.. You need to connect them to the - sign.

Hey! I checked my extrude wiring and my endstop wiring and both seem to be n the right places. I have another question as well. I just uploaded some code from my laptop to the printer, but now my lcd screen isn't working. I also tried to find the pins.h file on Marlin but I can't find it. So can you please help me with that? Thanks

Hey welcome vssurush, sorry to hear you're having trouble. First double check your wiring before connecting your printer to your computer if you haven't already.

Do you have repetier or another control software installed? In repetier once connected under manual control, you can send the command m119 to 'ask' the end stops their status, closed means pressed. Push them one at a time by hand and send m119 while they're pressed to check that your machine sees them being pressed. If your machine sees them being pressed then they need to be adjusted. If your machine is not seeing them pressed then you need to recheck your wiring or possibly replace them.

Disconnected, faulty or maladjusted end stops account for your extruder crashing into your build plate since it won't know when to stop.

Your extruder could be a couple of things, after verifying that both the thermistor (white wires) and the power wires (red) are connected properly, try blowing a hair dryer or other heat source on the aluminum block at the bottom of the extruder.. If your repetier or your other control software shows the temperature of your extruder rising, then you've just ruled out it being the thermistor. If the temperature remains the same after a while, replace the thermistor with the extra one included.

I don't want to make this a wall of text so check back after trying those things and we'll go from there.

Hey Loota! Thank you for replying! I have some good new. I tried to switch the wires for the the extruder and the heated bed.(I switched the places where they were put) and now my extruder is heating up, but the heated bed is not, but I can live with it. I do have the repetier program instlled on my laptop, but could you please walk me through the calibration of the endstops please? Thank you.

Hey vssuresh, glad you got your extruder to heat up, that means it's not broken, but you can't leave the wires switched like that.. The 3D printer is a calibrated instrument, It needs more heat for an extruder then a heat bed so if you try using it while it thinks its heating up your heat bed.. well its just never going to work right... suffice it to say you shouldn't "trick the machine" because it needs to know what it's doing so it can do it properly.

I think you really should double triple quadruple check your wiring because it sounds like it could solve all of your problems. If you would like you can upload a picture and I can check it too (just be sure to make it well lit and focused ;) )

As far as end stops go, its easier to understand after seeing it, so search some videos, but the basic concept is (for the z axis), an end stop should be placed in such a way that the button will be pressed before nozzle crashes into the build plate. Ideally it should be placed just far enough that you can slide a piece of paper between the nozzle and build plate. After you calibrate the end stop so it gets pressed before the nozzle touches the plate, you need adjust the build plate screws so the nozzle remain the same height away from the bed all across the x and y axis. Trust me, search a video for it, much easier to understand once you see it.

Hey Loota, its been a while.... I have spent the last 3 weeks trying to configure the endstops for my printer. I have tried to look of videos and anything else, but I still can't find anything. So, you you please suggest a video link for me? If anyone else knows please try to help me out. I am doing this for a project and it is due around the 23/24. Please help me out. I could a lot of help. Thanks!


Hello every Sunhokey owners. My name is Paul Wang who became a Sunhokey 3 weeks ago. It is a great machine which gave me great printing results right after I put them together. Still using The PLA filament came with the kit. Haven't tried ABS.
Here is a few things I did as improvements:

1) Square out XY. I made a rectangular plate fit inside of the 4 walls at the back of the printer. Otherwise it is off about 5mm at 200mm length.

2) Printed a extruder heatsink cooling duct to improve the cooling. I had a couple of times of blocking. I believe it is caused by extra heat softening the filament and expended a little by pushing then stuck at the entry point of the extruder. I just got the part done. Will update my test result.

3) Used a 10mm spacer to straight the Y motor, otherwise it is sitting in an angle.

4) Added a 1/8" glass on top of the heated bed, and use wood glue for sitting the first layer.

Hi all, my name is Brad and I've had my 2015 Sunhokey since Aug 2015. I am learning a lot as this is my first experience in 3D Printing and still tweeking mine. I've printed a few modifications, but nothing major. I can see that the print quality with this printer can be very good, but mine isn't consistant and I'm still learning, so not sure what all needs to be done. It's all trial and error, but I'm learning as I go. I'm not very good with forums so, I hope you all will be patient with me as I'm old school and don't know a lot about how these things work. Like most of you, I've noticed that the cheap Chinese filaments aren't very good. The Sunhokey I received with mine, one PLA and one ABS, wasn't as bad as some extra I purchased from another Chinese vendor. That stuff was horrible. Both rolls were ABS. Since those and I haven't even used all of it, I've moved on to Hatchbox from Amazon. It is cheap, but not as bad as the Chinese brands that I received already. I have a roll of ABS and I find that some of my better prints come from around 220C as apposed to much hotter temps I had to use with the crappy stuff. Well anyway, Loving this site and hope I can learn a lot.

My Sunhokey Prusa I3 3D printer should be at my door in a few hours according to the tracking info. I have the task of putting it together, fun fun fun. I'll Be Back.

Hi, My name's Stu and I've just sent off the money for the latest SunHokey Prusa I3 printer. My only experience to date with the printer has been watching the build videos on YouTube, that situation will change very quickly I hope.

HI im Zander from Australia,

I am purchasing a Sunhokey next week and i chose to because i find the whole prospect of 3d printing fascinating seeing that in the next 30 years or so everyone will have them like computers so i want to be a part of that movement :D

Hello fellow Prusa i3 owners! My name's Chris and I'm a community college student from Ohio who got the 3D printer in order to 3D print caps for a Kombucha business. I have a few other reasons for buying the printer but currently I'm focusing on the caps first. I appreciate the improvements and advice RJ and look forward to searching and conversing on the forums with the rest of the community in the future.

keep calm and 3D print on,


Funny I read about someone doing the same thing on reddit a while ago, is this a thing or did I really just run into the same person on the internet twice on accident?

I'm also curious about 3D printing Kombucha caps since it doesn't feel like a natural fit, FDM being porous and all. Nothing that can't be fixed with some acetone but why not ceramic caps or something?

I was thinking of a cost effective way of creating caps for kombucha and hadn't heard of anything when I searched online some time ago. This is the first time I put my idea on the internet but I'm glad someone else was thinking about it. The cap design I'm looking to create features the logo of my company on the top while being able to keep the acidity of the kombucha from leaching chemicals from the plastic. My current sketch features utilizing wine corks in conjunction with the caps on top to create a unique yet effective seal. I would't recommend making plain 3D printed caps unless you are willing to attach a pvc lining underneath to prevent any leaching.

Cool, well, at my job we often have people design items in cad for fitting before having molds made. So even if you decided against using the caps for actual bottling, I can see how 3d printing could be very helpful to the process.

I think shapeways does castable wax too, if you wanted to produce them in ceramic or something else. Actually, if you have the cad model you want to use, you could try enclosing it in a box, and making the cap empty space, thus making a mold. (Hard to explain in words but here's a picture of a mold I made for a local artist: http://i.imgur.com/jaKCpAj.png) It's really only good of course with cold materials but it's fun to experiment with..

Not trying to tell you your business of course ;) but I like to compare notes.

Hi All, Matt here from Australia, I just bought a 2015 Sunhokey i3 which will be my first 3D printer when it arrives in a few days. I stumbled across this group whilst looking for a few tips an tricks for getting started and thought I'd say hello.

I've been seeing a lot about firmware settings needing tweaking, particularly in regards to e-steps and max bed temp. having never played with Arduino, I was hoping someone here might be able to point me in the direction of a good step by step guide for how to backup/modify/flash firmware for this printer.

Of course, any other general tips people might have for someone about to embark on their first attempt at building, calibrating and if I know myself, modifying a 3D printer would be very much appreciated.


Hello my name is stefan!
have some problems with sunhokey 2015 MKS GEN-2Z v1.1

when i heat extruder, on LCD both temperatures Extruder and Bed going up together, and extruder stop heating at 150degrees, and give me error: MAXTEMP BED. but the bed is not heating: is cold.

when heating the bed, lcd temperature dont change but bed is heating and dont stop with maxtemp.

when disconnecting the Bed temperature sensor, no changes :(

tested many firmare, this error is alway here !

never read some tips on internet about this ? do you think is an hardware problem ?

have you some ideas about this ?

Thank in advance for your help :)

Hi bolbot, I had a slightly different issue when I built my hokey a couple of weeks ago, but you might find it helpful...

Hotend was heating up fine, the printer will allow me to heat all the way up to 265 C.

However, the bed temperature was saying it was at 0 when the ambient temperature in my house was about 19-20 degrees C. The heat bed would not heat up at all and the printer would just ignore any instruction to preheat regardless of my print settings etc... After double checking wiring and good contact on all connections I tried swapping out the thermistor with the replacement the came in the kit and BINGO!!! All good after that.

Side note for anyone who might be interested, I've seen a lot of reports of beds not heating past 90 Degrees, mine seems happy to go up to 135(I haven't actually taken it past 110 yet). At this stage I am still running the default firmware that was on the printer when it arrived, no modifications. I've checked the bed temperature with an infrared thermometer and found that it's pretty close, for cheap electronics, to what it says on the LCD screen. +/- 2 or 3 degrees across the bed.

I'm a newbie too, but it sounds like there's a mixup with your sensor wiring. Are you sure the sensor from the bed is going to where the bed sensor plugs in on the controller board? You know it's not Firmware so it must be a wiring problem. I'd be checking the thermistor on the bed as well I've heard they can cause weird problems when they stop working.

Hi everyone,

I'm Richard from Mexico. A friend and I bought a pair of these printers to learn about 3d printing together (our company uses a lot of solidworks so this was a good excuse to learn 3d modeling). Taking into account the price tag for this printer I was pleasantly surprised after getting up and running with so little hassle. Currently I am only printing in PLA since my hotbed burned out but a replacement is on the way. I also have plans to replace the head with a e3dv6 some time in the immediate future.

One of my next projects is to create a case for a modified version of this https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=PQOjkuJtBfM using custom SMD atmega, rechargable batteries, neopixels, and polyphonic audio to give each block color, sound and smarts.

I look forward to seeing what we can all make of our machines!


I'm Calvin from New Zealand. I have purchased this printer to start my own 3d printing business. I have printed some parts with what i would think are great quality. Have replaced my print head with a e3d-v6 hot-end and that has done a great job. My 3d hubs page is www.360degrees.co.nz if you want to see any prints i have done. Sadly my printer is not working at present as My motherboard has burnt out when my hotplate burnt out. I wasn't at home at the time it burnt out. Lucky my house didn't burn down.

So glad i have found this place were we all can work together to make this printer even better.




I'm Yngve from Norway. I've been using a horrible Velleman K8200 at work for a couple of years, but got a great deal on a used, slightly modified Sunhokey Prusa i3 a few weeks ago. I've learned a lot from the K8200 (at least a bad printer leads to a steep learning curve) and the Prusa i3 is a different world altogether. So far it's doing beautiful work. Looking forward to learning more.

Hi all,

I'm Lewis from the UK.

I've had my 2015 Sunhokey printer for a few weeks now and and nearly fully dialled in on my settings. I found this section of Thingiverse and it looks great, some posts have already greatly helped.

Hi Everyone I'm Xavier from Switzerland. Bought this printer as a present for myself last Xmas. As other people here I started by enhancing the printer, creating my own x,y and z axis end stops, cover for MKS board and case for the LCD. I accidentally found this group as I was searching for more improvements ideas like dual extruder head.

I found a lot of good ideas down here (very special thanks go to projectearth7!), I modified my x and z end stops once more, ordered long linear bearings for the carriage, modified the carriage to maximize the printing dimensions, and added the special fan holder. I will soon post pictures of all these modifications and acknowledge people accordingly... :-)

My next project is to make a carriage for dual extruders without compromising printing dimensions. On the Y axis the printer has quite some margin, with a clever design it should be possible to achieve that... :-)


I also took a lot of time recently to improve accuracy and printing capability, mostly on the slicer side. I am now quite happy with the quality of both ABS and PLA printings, and I am now trying to challenge it with extra-long bridges (record is currently about 50mm, quite good looking) and extreme overhangs. Still on the learning curve but already familiar with most settings.

Welcome to the group Xavier.... and you're welcome on using all good ideas here.... that's the main purpose of this group --> to share ideas and technique ;)

By the way I would like to inform everyone that we've surpassed the 100 member mark... we are 101 members in total now... woohoo!

Honestly I never thought we'll grow this big... many sunhokey owners out there after all... :D

Keep improving and keep printing everyone!... cheers!

Hey Guys, I'm Greg, from Switzerland !
I'm a student in mechanical engineering, a fan of rapid prototyping.

I got my Sunhokey printer (as one of you said earlier) as a present for myself in January :p
I had no issues to assemble it.
The first thing I did was designing my own Y and Z endstops to be able to have a nice first layer, I'm pretty proud of my design, I should share it. I use a kapton sheet on the glass, it's very efficient.
As of today, I'm still trying to perfect my prints, be faster and understand the parameters. On my profile you can see the few things I'm proud of and there is room for improvement.
This summer I want to design a belt tension system.

Travis from Orlando, FL. Ive been working around hobby mils and lathes, manual mostly bit some CNC, for a few years, been following additive manufacturing and the reprap over the last 10 years and was looking to build a one my self but found the sunhokey and pulled the trigger for the price.

I've had mine for 1wk now, luckily no component issues on mine so far. had some tuning on the Z (4% over stepping) and E (5% under stepping) i would like to re-flash marlin to open up the EEPROM to save setting, but im hesitent without a backup stock config.h if anyone has the file? I have found with the hunter orange PLA they sent i need to run at ~215c to get any consistent flow , but i do get skipping at this temp, which lends me to thing the temp calibration is off.

I'm looking to inclose the little puppy as the first big upgrade.

Hi Travis, this is the Configuration.h file of the official firmware sent to me from Sunhokey, good idea open the EEPROM and save settings: http://www.dropbox.com/s/4dscy5znv947z75/Configuration.h?dl=0

My experience started out rough - ended up with broken frame, 4 bad bearings, faulty MKS board which blew the PS. Sunhokey was nonresponsive, so I replaced the parts with ebay stuff. Works great now, and I love owning it. Can't imagine spending so much $$ on, for example, a MakerBot.

The upside is that I got a quick and thorough education on the ins and outs of Arduino/RAMPS/Marlin!

I totally would recommend this printer to anyone viewing who is short on cash and long on DIY experience.

Hi, John here from Calgary, Alberta. Built my kit about six weeks ago. Great value for money. Unfortunately, the MKS board died and I am still trying to get a replacement. Also, one of the Y-Axis rods slightly bowed. But anyway, this group is a great source of information, and my experiences quite similar. I borrowed a Ramps 1.4 card get the printer working again. While a great value, and a well configured kit, I think all users will need to do calibration and firmware tuning. My success required calibration of all four axis (especially E), reducing acceleration (esp. Y axis) and reducing XY-Jerk - all firmware adjustments. Also required slowing print speed down to 30 mm/s (40% first layer). Now it's really good printing in PLA at 215/210 on cold bed with blue tape. This was my first printer, and my goal was to learn the entire tool chain.
The first question people ask me is "what can you do with it?" Perhaps showing my age, guess what was the first question people asked me when I built my first PC circa 1978? Same question, which seems silly in hindsight....

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Hi John,

welcome - sorry to hear about the broken board. In general I look for cheap replacement parts mostly on ebay (worldwide) or aliexpress. I don`t know what this board cost normally but I found that here - for 30€ with free shipping from China not bad I think:


Really cool statement with with the computer :-)

Hi all,

Stefan here from Austria - finished building a 2015 Sunhokey 2 weeks ago & still testing around.
In general I am really finally impressed how good this cheap thing is working after opening the package :-)

I have some problems with my hotend, its leaking at the top (there is melted PLA coming out from the top) & black-brown (think burned) PLA is sometimes dropping on the printed good, so I ordered a replacement from china (not Sunhokey - think V6 clone).
I too ordered a new MK2 heat bed as I got this bad aluminium one.

So I can not give any more informative stuff right now. Oh... I just uploaded my first "computer made" design here:

Really cool that there is such a organized community :-)

FPV cam mount for china quadcopter X525-V3
by hastla

Welcome to the group Stefan :)

Very nice design... keep it up!

I had leaking issues too. Tried PTFE tape but it was leaking from everywhere. Ended up swapping for an E3D V6. But I was previously tightening the nozzle down onto the head block. E3D says to not thread the nozzle all the way in, thread in the heat break, and then tighten the nozzle against the heat break. That might be the trick.


Yes now I saw that too - looked at it 10 times, thanks.

In my case when I compare the pics in detail the heatsink is not screwed plane (100%) in the heater block like on the pics at E3D site. This would also be the explanation for the top leaking maybe.

I think I will give it a try to get that thing complete in parts, what is not easy as the PLA sticks direct in there. I would have to heat it up to unscrew all, clean it & hope to get it finally like one the pic plus fixed.

HI All, we have had the Sunhokey PRUSA i3 for a couple of weeks now, was impressed with how well it worked, once built, straight out of the box. We been using PLA and getting good prints with (extruder 205C, bed 06C/55C) a glass sheet wiped with vinegar and 20mm/s for the first layer. We just tried ABS on the weekend without success, seemed to have a real hard time getting the bed to 80C, so will be amazed if it can get above 100C. Was going to try some of the cold bed printing tricks, sanded blue tape, ABS slurry, UHU before breaking down and reprogramming the firmware, does anyone know other than setting the boards type what all the configurations settings should be or are the defaults from github good to start with?

Hi, welcome to the club :-). Someone had a success to heat the bed to 100 by changing the power cables which connects bed with the board and of course changing the main power cables between the board and PSU. The firmware has a limit of 100C(correct me if I am wrong) so it will error anyway if you do not change the firmware.

I have successfully printed ABS on 85C heated bed with using capton tape + ABS juice. No wrapping at all.
Capton tape + ABS juice seems to work the best for me while printing ABS.

To speed up the bed heating, cover it with a cardboard during the heating....but remove before print :-)

One more thing, be careful with the bed as some of us had issue with the cables which burned out of the bed. It might start a fire I am afraid, so check the cable connection to the bed in some time.

Hi all. My name in Jonn.
I have yet to own a sunhokey i3, but I hope to fix that very soon.
Its good to know there are people to go to when trubble arises.

Hope to learn with you!

Hi John... welcome to the group!

Let's learn from each other :)

Hi:) Dmitry from Norway. Just got my Sunhokey - it was fun to build :) Nice to have a group!

Hi Dmitry for the late welcome but hey.... WELCOME to the group :)

hi guys! Gianmaria from Italy! bought the printer in March.
Nice to be here!

Welcome to the group Gianmaria :)

Hi guys, I'm Johan living in france, bought the printer at the start of january, got a lot of mess with some of the rods mounts (obviously cracked when i was scrwing them down) repaired with special dentist resin ( realy strong one ;) ).
I just added an E3D v6 on it, i still have struggle with the extruder but it works ^^ I still have to do a layer fan hose for it ( you will add at least 2 or 3 cm print high ) I will post it when i finished it ( i have to order abs first but i will try with theyr sh*tty PLA ).
And nice to find some people that had the same (bad?) idea to buy this printer :)

Hi Johan... welcome to the group!

Yes I agree, this printer is not perfect but in all honesty I think I made a good decision buying this printer ;)


Hello. My name is Catalin, I am from Romania and i recently got myself a Sunhokey Prusa i3. I managed to find other sunhokey owners on facebook and we made a group, to help each other, as all of our printers needed some tweaks. If any of you are interested on joining, give me a sign. Also, i am happy to find more sunhokey owners:D

I Just made a facebook group for sunhokey owners as well, well more of a page, will you provide the link to yours?


link is to the page I just made!

Sorry for the delay, here is the link to the group.

Welcome to the group Catalin!

Would love to join your FB group.... kindly post the link here.


I posted it now in the reply to kwdaily, sorry for the delay.

Hi Catalin! Can you post the group? Thank you!

hey, my names Justin, bought this printer as my first 3d printer as some others have, and I have had this printer since February without any luck to actually get it to print. As of recently I bought a E3D lite6 since the filament they have provided clogged up the stock extruder. Still having some issue with my printer that hopefully some of you may be able to help me with, and maybe along the way I can help others with the printer. Something I have noticed that is problematic to the print quality is that there is a bow in the heat bed, and this doesn't allow prints to have the flattest first layer possible. There are a few more things that I have noticed with this printer that are frustrating, however I will make a post of those sometime later. Here's my printer http://imgur.com/a/61if4

I have a feeling my AL bed has a bow in it too. Haven't put a straightedge on it yet but it hasn't caused much issue so far because all of my prints have been small. Would be interesting to check cold straightness and hot straightness. I have a piece of borosilicate glass that I could use but think that that would increase my heating times if I use it with the AL bed. Maybe an upgrade down the road.

i've only noticed mine because 1. I tried to print the reasonably large 80x80x10 test print provided by the company and noticed it wasn't coming out right and 2. because when I was leveling the print bed, I noticed that while there was barely friction on the paper on the outside corner, when moving the extruder towards the center of the print bed, the friction would increase, so that was a major giveaway letting me know there was a bow in the bed

Hi Guys. My Name is Tomas and I have bought Sunhokey as my first 3D printer. I have built it in about 5 hours and I have been playing with almost 5 days.

Two things that I have realised:

  1. The alu heated bed does not heat more than 90C, so I am having trouble with ABS printing.
    hat setting are you using for ABS printing ?
  2. I have measured Z AXIS ( have moved it to 10 and then to 110mm), it was not 100mm but abnout 105mm. So I have changed
    the Z step to 394.4, this gives me 100mm.

    define DEFAULT_AXIS_STEPS_PER_UNIT {80.5, 80.5,394.4,80.5}

Anyone with the same issues ?


the 90C max temp is a firmware setting. My error went away when I uploaded new firmware with the max setting at 150, now granted it does take quite a while before the bed will heat up, I have had no issues printing ABS at 100C. Hope this helps.

The max temp firmware setting can be changed, but the heated bead that I have does not want to heat up to more that 90C. Even during printing the temperature goes down to about 85C. So my first upgrade will be the heated bed.

I have more of less this issue. After flashing the firmware Max value to 150, my ALU bed can heat up to about 105-110 but it takes FOREVER. (like 10 minutes). So definitely on the list to replace.

Hi Tomas, it seems like you and I are about the same, I have had my printer since the 1st of May, built it over the following two days and have been printing since about the last five days too.

I also have the Al heat bed and it hits max bed temp error at 90C but have still been able to get the ABS to print.

I've been using the two Sunhokey provided ABS filaments which they sent for free (yellow and blue) and the settings for each one seem to be drastically different.

For the Sunhokey yellow ABS I was printing the first layer/subsequent layers at 235C/230C and heat bed at 85C/80C and it was overcooking and oozing black 'glass' into the prints.

Last night I switched out the filament and tried out the Sunhokey blue ABS and I could not get it to stick to the bed with the same settings and had to switch to 240C/237C and heat bed at 87C/80C and I'm managing to start testing prints at 0.1mm layer height. Sometimes the first layer doesn't stick well with the blue on complex models so I've been using the glue stick to help get the first layer down.

Here's the first two prints I've done, they both have some areas that didn't print well but overall I'm very happy with how the printer is performing so far.


The hot end seems to have a hard time getting up to the 240C temp without an enclosure so I have just wrapped the packaging styrofoam roughly around the back of the machine to help and then use thin acrylic sheet I had spare for the front. The sides are blocked by some dollar store foam board.

There is a lot of vibration in my machine right now, I plan to do the x-carriage stability mod with the long box sliders and also y-axis motor stability mod (there is a lot of wiggle in the acrylic y-axis motor mount piece). I also tightened up the front plate so the y-axis smooth rods would have no slop but now the heating bed carriage is having some rough vibration, so I need to loosen and re-tighten the box sliders on that again.

I haven't validated the stepping calculations on mine so not sure if I've got the same issues, but will report back when I get around to checking them.

Haven't tried ABS or how hot my bed can get but seems some people have issues getting their beds really hot. Sunhokey has changed their heat beds a few times so don't know if they older PCB heat beds they provided reached higher temps (I have AL bed).

All of my steps had to be adjusted. The Z and E steps were really off and were causing a lot of print issues. Used the LCD to make adjustments to tune and wrote it down. Still need to flash the firmware to make the changes permanent.

Hi Guys! My name is KW. Proud owner of my first printer! (Sunhokey) I actually believe I am the only owner of a 3D printer in my town (almost a tiny city haha) in Northeastern Louisiana.

The build was pretty painless, the video leaves a lot to be desired. Also find out the stock firmware on mine was utter crap, So I started from nothing and compiled my own custom Marlin with my own calculated settings. I've had pretty good success in ABS, printing at 220/100C. I was having great luck with PLA until the hot end clogged, and I stripped every set screw in the heater block trying to take it apart. I finally ordered a new hot end, and the PLA that came with the printer is just jam after jam. So back to ABS (the stock roll) and It's doing great.

On another note, I just received my inductive probe for auto leveling. I found that the bed screws that came with it have a round button head, which is strange to me as the holes in the bed are countersunk. So sometime this morning I am going to go get pan head M3 machine screws to replace these. After I put my bed back together I'm going to tackle the Marlin implementation of auto leveling (hopefully!).

It's awesome that there is a group for this, I was reading some of the other posts, a Facebook group or Reddit group would be good for me too. Couldn't hurt, as I've yet to talk to someone who hasn't had to modify their Sunhokey at least a little bit.

Anyway, sorry for the long winded post. but anytime I start talking about my printer, I get excited! :)


Welcome to the group KW!

A facebook group would be nice... fast and easy communication... but its hard to make searchable topics there unlike here... we can easily browse the topic of our concerns.

But if someone create a Sunhokey FB group I will definitely join ;)

I just tried to make a group, but I have to have I'm guessing at least one friend as part of the creation process. So if you look me up (KW Daily) and add me I will create the group and add anyone who wants to be a part of it!

Hi everybody! I'm Ben, over in California. I just got my Sunhokey printer finished putting it together and started printing some stuff, have even got some usable prints so far! Thank you Hiboson for the build videos, even though my kit was a bit different I still watched them all so far!

When I received my kit one of the acrylic pieces had a broken tab and one of the box sliders had a hole that was drilled out but not tapped, so right now I've got it held it with only three screws.

Of course I got the oozing like mentioned here I was just too eager to get printing but hey the darn thing works! I've already printed a couple of the calibration parts from the CD and a couple other things (like Tomas' push-connection fix) and I'm really impressed by the printer so far.

I am looking forward to diving into the firmware and reading through all the posts. I've already gone through them about three or four times, but a lot of things didn't make sense at the time.


I'm having a bit of 'black ooze' that has messed up some of the prints. Am I overcooking the ABS ?

The first 80x80x6 test, the bed was too low on the first layer. I did the bed leveling tips as posted here, but I still had to adjust them a little bit. I printed a double-perimeter for the 10x10x10 test, and then adjusted each corner until the filament was extruding onto the bed smoothly on each pass. It took a few tries but the perimeter is one nice solid 'film' of plastic and the first layer seems to be nice and smooth.

I'm just using the free ABS filament from Sunhokey with bed set to 85/80 and extruder at 230 printing on the yellow tape. I'd like to upgrade to the borosilicate glass and run the bed a bit lower as Tomas has in his tips.

My settings are all the basic settings from the screenshots on the CD, the only thing I've been playing with are the infill settings.

Thanks everyone for all your contributions so far and I look forward to creating and sharing some designs also.

Welcome to the group Ben.

Based from your photo, It's like the filament was too melted (overcooked). Try to lower the temp bit by bit until no more black ooze and the lines of each layer is almost seamless.

My temp setting for ABS filament is 230C for the nozzle and 100C for the bed.
Hope it helps.

Keep printing bro... cheers!

Hello. My name is Robert and I am located in the US. I have had my printer for about 1.5 weeks. I have made some improvements for auto bed leveling, flashing new version of marlin, however I am having a terrible time with the extruder skipping. With either the original or marlin FW I have to turn the heat up to 230-240 for PLA to minimize skipping... Does anyone have any suggestions?

I'm having the same problem with the extruder skipping but I had not much skip using the two free filament spool that came with the printer but since I bought new filament and even if I done the mod http://www.thingiverse.com/thing:800771 and tried to set the temperature over 220 the problem still remain making poor quality prints. I guess the problem is the small internal diameter of the PTFE teflon tube and I ordered a bigger one with the hope to solve the issue. Note that the new filament ordered is of good quality and the size is exactly 1.75 mm so the problem did not come from a wrong filament size or poor quality of the material. If I will not be able to solve the problem with the new PTFE tube than I will change the remote feed system of this printer with a proximity one as most of the others Prusa I3 because I guess that this is the real big issue of this printer.

Sunhokey Prusa I3 Modification for Smooth Filament Flow

Just a suggestion... you may try to set your nozzle temperature to the max temp rating of your filament and then try to set the print speed to the slowest (maybe around 10~15 mm/sec)... This is just to test if the skipping problem still exist on this setting.

If the above method have been tried and still the problem exist then try to check your filament feed rate. Mine is set to 85.5%... that was based from calibration data.

Hope this helps :)

Did you try to trim your pololus? An over or underpowered driver could be your problem!

Hi Robert... welcome to the group.

230~240 C for PLA I believe is too high. Hope you don't experienced burned (overcook) filament.
Anyway, I am not sure if this is a similar problem to mine last time but you may wanna try what I did. Check out and try it. http://www.thingiverse.com/thing:800771

Hope it solved your issue.... cheers!

Keep on printing everyone :)

Sunhokey Prusa I3 Modification for Smooth Filament Flow

I actually just went through the details on your post... I will try as soon as I get home. Did you have any concerns that the temp probe is relaying inaccurate readings? I used an infrared thermometer to see if they were close and ended up being about 30 degrees off. Not sure how accurate the infrared thermometer is though. Getting the auto bed leveling working has improved setup speed before a print and resulted in better quality prints however this extruder jumping is driving me crazy! I also notice a bit of play with the carriage assembly on the rails, have you had to address this? Again I am very new to 3D printing and am striving for as close to perfect as possible!

I believe we have the same experience with the temp difference between infrared thermometer reading vs the set temperature so I just disregarded the data. I just focused on the filament condition during printing and based the final temp setting on the best printing result I got.

Regarding the play on the X-carriage, I made some improvement on that too... here you go http://www.thingiverse.com/thing:813458

Sunhokey Improved Glass bed clamp and X-carriage Stability

Removing as much resistance as projectearth7 has suggested makes a big difference in skipping. I still have issues with skipping when bridging. I have a hobbed drive gear that I haven't installed yet. Hoping that will help as well.

Interested in how you setup your auto bed leveling. Did you use the MKS Gen-2Z that came with the printer?

Hi my name is Rune from Norway. I have had the Standard (not modified) )sunhokey prusa i3 for 2 weeks. And can't get it to work properly. but you guys are helping me a lot with hints and tips.

Hi Rune saw your comment on my video ;) was already here but only just lol, have fun :)

Hi all, I'm Steve Italian living in Thailand (Koh Samui) since 1998. I'm a Sunhokey Prusa i3 owner since last February. My printer never had issues on calibrations. Looking forward to do and share with this group some improvements like dual exruders and bed auto leveling. I just ordered the MKS Gen V 1.1 board that has this feature and also ordered all the other items to upgrade the printer to dual extruders (I paid only $ 100 for everything needed, here we have a very cheap direct channel to buy in China). I Will share here tests and results of this project, stay tuned!

So with mks gen 2z we can't have the autoleveling?

Hmm.. Autoleveling with a resistive/capacitive probe should be doable


My name is daniel, from chile and i have a Sunhokey Prusa i3 since February. i have some problems to fix in my printer and some improvements to do too xD

I hope we can take the best of this printer together

see ya!

Welcome to the group Daniel.

Just posted some improvement for the filament flow you might wanna try.


thanks i will try it 0_<

i have a little question, it's not better made a facebook group to communicate bettween us? is much friendly and richier in resources than this for that

and leave this place to group all the proyects relative a the printer?

i'm not trying to destroy this if something that i said looks like this, please forgive me it's only my rusty english <_>

Reddit would get my vote over Facebook. Facebook is good for communication but it is harder to find older topics which is handy for technical discussions. It would be awesome if we could get a subtopic section of http://forums.reprap.org/ but doubt they would want subtopics for every Prusa i3 variant.

Hiya All, I'll keep it short it's 2am and I got work in the morning oops lol, but yea got me a Sunhokey in december and now finally putting finishing touches on the build now. If you want to see what I've done right or wrong lol (And broken) it's all on my build on my YouTube channel :P www.youtube.com/user/Hiboson ,, righto shamless self promotion done time for bed as got to be up soon lol, Night All :)

Hiboson, your vids are awesome and convinced me to buy my Sunhokey. It's been great so far, my wife says she's a printer widow now :-)
I've pointed a bunch of other people to your vids and they are seriously thinking about a Sunhokey on that basis.
Keep up the good work.

Great vids man... :)

Thanks mate :) I try my best, fail alot, but try lol

Hi, My name is Edoardo, I'm italian and I'm 21 years old. My english is very bad, so if you don't understand, sorry.
I adjusted vref on steeper motor drivers, I put together the 2 z motors in 1 motor driver, so I can put another extruder in the future. I changed the firmwere and it works fine. I use simplify 3d for printing but I can use also slis3r. I want the autobed leveling, I think that it isn't so hard to do it

Welcome to the group Edoardo.

I think auto-bed leveling is easy to do too once I get hold on a copy the original configuration.h (marlin firmware).

Will try it very soon. :)

Hi, my name is Tim. Just finished building my 2015 Sunhokey. Have a few prints completed but I'm having some bed leveling issues and the Y axis is very rough. The bed leveling just needs some play I guess. Discovered one of the rods has a rough patch so will try polishing tonight. Might wash and grease the bearings while I am at it.

It is good the hear what you guys have for settings. Seems that the base settings Sunhokey suggests are too fast and hot (60mm/s and 230 deg C for PLA). Don't know if it is temp related but I have large globs at the start of a new layer.

Welcome to the group Tim.

I guess you're nozzle temp is too high just as you suspected... try to lower it bit by bit till no globs occur.

After polishing the Y-axis rods I had success in smooth travel in that direction.

Started experimenting with lower extrusion temps starting at 200 deg C and was going to work my way down when I noticed I had PLA leaking from the top of the heater block. Removed the block, cleaned the threads, added PTFE tape and hoping that that works.

Then was noticing that I was having feeding issues with the extruder jumping. Turns out that after the filament goes through the extruder that the teeth marks that it leaves on the filament was causing it issues with it moving smoothly through the PTFE tubing. Going to mess with the tension of the extruder but also ordered some 2mm ID tubing (assuming the printer came with 1.8mm ID tubing).

So little issues here and there. Eventually I will get this thing all figured out.

EDIT: The push fitting for the extruder fell apart. :/

EDIT 2: Rigged the fitting to work for now. Hot end is still leaking. Not having good luck. :(

Make sure the heat break is in far enough. Chances are that your tip is bottomed out on the block (mine was and was crying PLA all over the place). You should hit the heat break before the tip bottoms out. I also chased the threads through the block with my tap set. The heat break and the tip must meet to seal, if not PLA will run out all the holes. It comes assembled wrong.

If you have skipping at the extruder motor, you need to take the whole heat end apart and get rid of all the sharp edges. Once I did that, teeth marks don't have anything to grab on the way by (a smooth flow).

@ixd704 I think I'm having a similar issue. Is it possible to see from the outside if the tip is correctly assembled? Can you explain how the hot end should be properly assembled? I've searched around, but can't seem to find much detail how the teflon should be placed correctly.


  • is a good place to start. There are two links on this page for fixing up the hotend so the filament goes through without obstructing.


  • is an instruction sheet for assembly (but it does not show the PTFE in the heat break).

Thanks a lot for the pointers. I know what to do next weekend! :)

hate when that happens. I had to heat up the hotend to 300C then tighten. When it cools down it tightens together.

This is also the standard procedure for genuine e3d hotends.

Cool endstops RJ. Downloaded.
Tomas here. Owner of 2 sunhokeys. 2014 & 2015.

1) I use PLA 1.75 filament from a seller on ebay named 3d-filament-boston. Tolerance +-.02. Great stuff. 23 bucks and its shipped priority mail. Gets home quick. Only seller I buy from. Gone through 10 rolls no problems.

2) Using E3d v6 with 6mm nozzle on one and E3d volcano with 1mm nozzle on the other for fun. Thick lines. Fixing to buy the E3d v6 lite for backup. Tried the ebay ones for 20 bucks. Big difference in quality. E3d all the way. Till the apha comes out.lol

3) Borosilicate glass with 1 piece of 200mm kapton on top at 45C. If I do a long print I raise to 55-60c. 205c first layer 190c rest.
Parts stick like crazy and leave a flawless mirror finish on bottom.

4) Speed 20 mms e3d v6. 18mms e3d volcano but its fast due more filament extruded. Still tweaking settings not looking for supersonic speed.

5) My opto sensor mount with a servo is the best I've tried. Had the arm one but it was to heavy and wasn't always accurate.

6) Download my bowden push connection fitting thingy. Your fitting will wear out and its great to have a backup. Just In case. I sell the pc4-m5's on ebay if you need them. I couldn't find one any where. So I bought a bunch and sell them on ebay.
Not a plug.

7) Adjusting vref on steeper motor drivers was needed. Mine came way to high and burnt up the drivers after a month. I didn't know. I'm new to this.

8) Getting a blunt syringe and squeezing acetone between the acrylic pieces will weld acrylic to acylic together

9) Lubricated with pb blaster white lithium grease. Not wd-40

10) Upgrading to 10mm shaft and bearings soon.

Thanks for your time.

Nice to meet you Tomas... and WOW! those are great infos you've shared.

Would love to try the filament you are using but sadly they don't ship to my country.

SO you were able to modify your Firmware (adding the auto-leveling)? I also wanted to do that but I am clueless how and really worried if I tamper the firmware and did something wrong that will render my printer useless. Hope you can teach us how.

I have never adjusted the vref of my stepper motor... so far I haven't encountered any problem from the default setting even when I printed in 52 hours none stop. What I always change and dial manually is the Esteps since the default is not applicable based from calibration result... I always set my Esteps to 105.9. I cannot save the changes I made and it would be much better if I can upgrade the firmware and fix the Estep value.

I will also post photos of some other improvements I made.

Thank you very much too... cheers!

52 hours holy crap. What did you make? I was scared and confused to mess with any firmware settings at first. I watched the ZennmasterM guide on auto bed levelling. Works with servo and leg. Then I saw this.
Then I went here
Piece of cake

Once I get the original firmware copy, I will try to upgrade my hokey ;)