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I've stumbled on the Tenlog Hands 2 and I have been looking for information or reviews and this has been the only place that I have found that deals with Tenlog. Is there any place to learn more about them or reviews that you know of? What are your reviews of the printer?

Recently got my Hands 2, very happy with it and I'm learning a whole lot along the way. I was looking for a new printer to upgrade from my Monoprice Select Mini V2, but couldn't justify the cost of $180+ for a printer that just had a bigger build volume, that just didn't seem worth it to me, so I was looking for something more unique. Anyway I ended up deciding on the Hands 2 and I love it.

I'm sure I haven't fully calibrated it yet, but I'm getting closer every day and the journey is half the fun.
I'd absolutely recommend it to anyone looking for a second 3D Printer, but it may be just a little too much to handle for someone entirely new to 3D printing.

If your not familiar with 3D modeling and slicer software, I'd instead recommend the Monoprice Select Mini V2 printers as they come basically fully assembled with very little messing with to get started. This way you don't have to troubleshoot both hardware and software without knowing which is the problem.

However if you ARE familliar with 3D modeling and slicer software than I'd absolutely recommend the Hands 2!

I purchased a Hands 2 not long ago and so far it looks very good. I'm playing around with it.
It's all made out of metal, everything is very solid. Even out of the box the bed was pretty much level and only needed minor adjustments. It is quite heavy for it's size once it is all together.

I did have to reverse the mounting of the spool holders so that they could be spaced far enough apart for standard sized spools. So mount them from the opposite side that the instructions show. The instructions are extremely basic and it took a bit of time to figure out where things needed to go.

My box came with a bunch of small spools of 250g of PLA - 6 I think. One was a shiny blue and the rest were plain white. The shiny blue broke a few times, but from what I can tell this is because the cable to the print head would get tangled up in the filament and break it. I used a loose zip tie to keep the print head cables in the same general area, but loose enough so that they can move freely, but so that they don't flop all over the place and block the filament. It is also possible these spools break more easily because it is a smaller tighter spool(some website forums have suggested this). I have had no break issues with full size spools but I've just started with full sized spools so may be the size or the print cable is out of the way, or just that I'm working with better quality filament, I'm not sure.

I have been using the Cura 4.4 version that is on Tenlog's site. I haven't figured out how to get to Cura 4.5 when I run 4.5 the Tenlog printer isn't there and I haven't figured out how to transfer the printer profile over.

I have found that when I try to print from the second extruder only, the Cura software still tries to warm up Extruder 1, but that seems more like a Cura issue not an issue with the printer.

Like any 3D printer you need to tune it and experiment a bit.

I spent the last few days building an enclosure box for it so I will keep experimenting. I will let you know how it goes.

I also have a Tenlog D3-pro printer and it is very good. I like to print with him.

I have cura version 4.7.1 and I can't transfer the printer parameters here either. Does anyone know how to saver from version 4.4?

Started with an Ender 3 and moved up to the Tenlog H2. Loving the H2. It's a hair smaller than the Ender, but so much more versatile. Direct feed and dual extruder, it has been amazing what I've been able to do. I've even used PLA as supports for my PETG prints, as they don't adhere well together.

As Kriegsteninul mentioned, there's a little tuning to do in order to align the print heads, but it can easily be done in 30 mins and only has to ever be done once. My trick was to print a small 2 layer square (20mmx20mm) with the skirt enabled for 2 lines (each printhead). Print and adjust the x and y values in the printer menu by a small amount and repeat until the skirts are aligned.

As for the ooze, I made some silicone sock holders (posted on thingiverse) which work well for me (others use brushes, etc...), so no problem. I keep the nozzle standby temp the same as the regular temp, as the silicone socks prevent the oozing and I don't waste time reheating the nozzles every layer.

Knowing what I know now, I simply would have started with the H2. Although having both is also helpful.

I see this comment is from back in April. Now that you have had a few months, can I ask you some questions about your hands 2?
I am considering a 2nd printer and came across this one.
How does the leveling work? I have an I3 Mega from Anycubic and it has the standard 4 screws to adjust. I use a version of Marlin to mesh level. Does the hands 2 have an auto-leveling, like BL touch, set up?
What extruder are they using? I like my BMG Clone but want to install at least one Zesty if possible.
Is there a facebook community or some other community out there to help and offer advice?

Still loving the H2. The bed leveling is a 4 wheel corner adjustment (like most printers). Essentially, you can use the 'leveling menu' to move between the 4 corners/piece of paper in order to adjust the first extruder (P1). Once level, you need to adjust P2 with a hex key to get the height to match P1. You can then move P2 between the corners to confirm. The menu also allows for a Z offset for P2. The next adjustment is to adjust the P2 X and Y offsets to ensure the head line up on those axises. I simply print 2 different coloured squares (50x50, 1 layer) and adjust the settings accordingly. I think I've checked the bed leveling a couple of times since I got it, no issues. Due to the dual heads, an ABL wouldn't really work. I have the Ez-ABL on one of my Ender 3s and frankly I don't use it that much, only when I switch from PLA to PETG, just because of the bed temperature difference.

Not sure how to answer the extruder question. It's direct drive and hasn't had any jams to date. The extruder assembly looks the same as the one mounted on my Ender 3.

There are some things out there as far as information, but the community is very small and details are harder to come by than a more popular printer. The USB stick that came with the printer actually has videos and documents which have come in very handy for setup and troubleshooting. The support people are in China, but great/fast. They even sent me 4 filament run-out sensors for free just because I asked (not sure why 4, there's only 2 extruders). For those with experience using another printer (which you do), there should be no issues with this one. I still use their version of Cura which comes with the printer (actually customized for Tenlog) and it works great. You can feed it any single extruder GCode, but it will by default use P1 to print (unless you print in mirror mode). If a slicer allows for multiple extruders, it should work fine (I've yet to try it with Simplify3d).

The firmware look proprietary to Tenlog, but I've never found a need to change it. If I had a complaint about the printer, it would be that it came with a plain pane of glass and a roll of masking tape. I upgraded it to a self-adhesive 220x220 ultrabase (textured glass, no clips) and it prints great.

Not sure I answered your questions properly, but feel free to ask some more (or the same ones in a different way)

Cheers,
Marc

Thank you.
I think if it is the same extruder as the ender 3, it is about a 3:1 gear ratio (I could be mis-remembering on that). I wonder how easy it is to swap for a BMG or zesty..... I will have to ask zesty I think.

One of the biggest issues with my current printer is bed leveling. It seems to be a common issue with the Anycubic I have. I have swapped firmware specifically to use a modded version of marlin so I can mesh level. I currently use a feeler gauge for the distance. I assume the Tenlong has specific distance they want to nozzle from the bed.

Have you upgraded or modded any parts other than the bed? Cooling ducts, hot ends, etc.
I think I have the ultrabase that you upgraded to on my current printer. I want to move to a magnetic sheet of some sort and away form ultrabase if possible. Did you find your ultrabase to be flat out of the box? I have 3 and so far all have some low/high spots.

I appreciate you willingness to answer questions. I am looking to upgrade my printing game.

No problem! Maybe because it's direct drive, I've never had issue with the extruder. I've even used TPU without any problems. It even takes filament that jams my Ender 3.

For leveling on the Tenlog, I'm only using the 'paper method'. I guess I've been fairly lucky that the bed is relatively flat? It also helps that the Tenlog uses dual Z-axis screws and as part of the 'zeroing' process, it takes extra steps to ensure the X-axis gantry is level.

Haven't had a need to upgrade or mod the printer beyond the anti-ooze things I made and a few clips to tidy the wires. I've printed PLA, PETG and TPU without any issues on the essentially stock machine.

Not sure the 'ultrabase' I got was a band name 'ultrabase'. It's a little tougher finding a 220x220 base. I seems to be flat, as I've printed things that took the entire bed without issue. One of the Ender 3's (Pro) came with the magnetic sheet and currently all 3 printers have the textured glass. It adheres extremely well (sometimes too well) and usually releases stuff easily when cool.

Always happy to share my experiences,
Marc

I'm interested in using the hands 2 with slic3r but I'm not sure what all the settings are. I'm assuming I can just transfer it all from Cura. Also I'm not entirely sure how to get the printer into Cura 4.5.

Have you tried using any software other than Cura from the Tenlog site?

Different Tenlog printer but...
I have a Tenlog D3 IDEX - sold branded as the Hictop D3Hero - but that's just branding on the LCD screen.
And I have to say I'm really impressed right out of the box.
This is coming from someone with 2 Ender3pro, a CR10s-5, a Prusa i3 clone

The printer has a great potential.High quality prints out of the box (single head).Dual color ... don't expect good results right away...needs tinkering.Hardware calibration of the heads (PERFECT alignment X and Y) and slicer software wipe wall or ooze shield, standby temp.....it's a learning journey.