Faltering (next steps?)

Please Login to Comment

So, I have made one attempt to get the printer working (printing) after achieving successful calibration and other operations (motion control, extruding filament, etc.) I made an attempt to install slicer software and do further configuration on the printer in order to prepare for printing.
I am not sure exactly what need to do from Step 1 to Step N in order to get it printing. The manual is pretty bad and I can't seem to find the information online about which tasks need to be performed to get it printing properly.

I apologize for my lack of experience I am sure this is somehow intuitive for folks who have been working with the technology any length of time. I was thinking I had chosen the wrong printer to begin with and should have built something smaller and more simple then worked up but I wanted the largest print capacity I could afford.

I suppose this is comical to contemplate and I will laugh at myself some day I am sure!

So, I use Linux mainly but have a windows 7 laptop I was using for the printer since it is still on the workbench. What configuration settings need to be changed in the LM before it can actually print. I assume something to do with where the first layer is in relation to the hot end? I guess there are some speed settings too. Do we edit the Monster.ini on the main control board (the filesystem on the microsd card?) I with I didn't have to ask all these questions, I wish the information I need to actually get it printing was in the manual. From looking at everything I've found including youtube I must be a dolt because people just seem to be printing with them without problems.

Thank you in advance for any knowledge about this procedure from end to end that you can share with me. I am sure my printer is working and put together well but I am challenged getting it printing. This is mainly due to being unsure what to do next, I guess.

  1. Task: Obtain slicing software. I chose Slic3r.
  2. Task: Configure printer. I think I have to edit Monster.ini on the main controller but am not sure.
  3. Task: Successful test print (my goal.)

When I bought mine I went through the same thing. I wrote down everything I learned in the following two sections. I haven't updated them lately and I ought to, but they should get you going. Hit me up with any questions you have.

(Detailed Build Guide) https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:2721502
(Detailed Calibration Guide) https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:2722557

Once you've gone through the calibration, you should be able to print some things fairly successfully.
Good Luck!

Tevo Little Monster Delta - Detailed Build Walkthrough
by abst
Tevo Little Monster Delta - Detailed Calibration Walkthrough
by abst

Once calibrated, youy dont have to mess with anything on the machine itself.
The rest is done in the slicer. You will have to find a profile for your slicerr that somebody else has made, and printed with successfully......that would be the easiest way to get going, as there are so many settings in the slicer, and just messing a few up, will give you really bad prints :-)

Join the tevo little monster group on facebook for instant replys.......

I have been under the weather and no energy to look into my new LM since the last time I posted.

I was just hoping to find a checklist or a procedure to take it from calibration success onward to a successful test print.

I can't get it to print anything and the first layer doesn't seem to adhere to the bed. I attempted to use hairspray with no success.
It doesn't seem to help hold the filament on the bed. I am not very sure why it isn't at this point. I am pretty sure the bed temperature was correct from reading various other articles.

It has been several weeks since I've tried anything new though. I hope to get back to it in a few days

I had opened a ticket with Tevo support about 3-weeks ago. They finally responded yesterday to ask me what model printer I had (I included the order number which tells them which printer normally.) I assumed they'd look up my order.

From what I see I have zero hope of help from that direction it seems.

As for FB, I am not a member, I made a conscious privacy decision many years ago to not join. I really wish I could use that resource, but not enough to join.

Does anyone have a simple procedure written yet for the LM to get it finished after you build it to the point where it will print?

Is there some specific software (or even version of same) I should use? Can I grab some profile from one of you for a specific slicer to bootstrap everything?

I would then match the same version you use?

Thank you for your patience. I am a proud owner of a new LM that I can't seem to use, hah! I feel stupid but not afraid of being laughed at when asking for a clue or two.

Honestly I am only now getting to the point where I even care about it again (bad health) but I am very annoyed that I am not yet printing even though I have not been in my office for weeks. I have been thinking about not being able to even run a test print and that is certainly lame!

For those who actually read this, should I buy some sort of beginner printer and use that to get started? Is there a good "starter" approach that has enough simplicity and documentation to allow a neophyte to begin? I normally work for a living and don't have unlimited free time but not sure about the best way forward.

I could get some smaller cartesian(?) printer and follow some "how-to" and maybe if I am lucky be able to actually print so that I can learn everything else I need to.

I got the LM because I wanted to be able to print larger objects and nothing is wrong with it of course, it is just that I don't really know what I am doing, As for your useful information about slicer, I started reading the slicer manual closely again, and I was reading this link "Little Monster calibration and configuration in 5 steps" (see https://tevo-3d-printers.com/viewtopic.php?t=341 .) and was wondering how accurate the procedure is?

I am going to get a small cartesian and see how difficult it is to get that printing something then maybe gain some experience about how things go before I tackle the LM again. I am certain of one thing though, all this is due to my own lack of knowledge,

I appreciate any additional information I am sure anything will be useful to me as I get started. I am embarrassed that I could not get a test print working but when trying to learn by rote I guess that is what happens.

I will not be pushing this project as aggressively as I normally would in the past because I can see I am missing the entire underlying foundation of knowledge and am looking for a useful way to remedy that. If buying a smaller cartesian printer to begin with will help me learn what I am missing that would be great!

Thanks in advance!

ok, so it sounds like you have not set up your Z height. The height from the nozzle tip, to the bed. The calibration run only sets an even distance from the nozzle to the bed all over the build plate distance so there are no high and low spots. But it does not adjust the nozzle height. When it starts to print, there should roughly only be room for a sheet of paper in between the two. On one of the last pages in the tevo manual, it states how to set the Z height......But I never tried it. This is how I set mine up. The Easy Z height way.....
Install Pronterface. http://www.pronterface.com/
Connect the printer. Write G28 in the command line, and it will home.
Place an A4 sheet of paper on the heatbed.
Write G0 Z0 , and it will lower the hotend close to the bed at zerro Z height.
Use the 0.1 down arrows on the Z axes until the (clean ) nozzle touches the paper, and you cant move it.
The back off 0.1mm with the up arrow. You should now be able to move the sheet of paper, if not, press up again until it is free. Then write M306 Z0 to set this height as the new Z zerro height.
Write M500 to save the new setting to the config ovveride, so it remembers it on next power cycle.
Disconnect, close Pronterface.
Done, Print until you run out of fillament :-)
If you think the layer is a bit too squished, then do the same procedure again, and go 0.1mm higher up, and you should be good to go.
I have used this method as it is described on the smoothieware site for all my prints, and have made some great stuff.

I just wanted to say Thank you to everyone. I have been recuperating from an illness and was unprepared for the situation where I had successfully built an LM (at least it calibrates and extrudes) but simply unable to get anything to print. I have been sitting here eyeing the printer for a long time and last week I ordered a very low-end Creality Ender in the hope that I will teach myself all the basic concepts and methodologies and then restart my efforts with the LM at some point as the reasons I needed one are still valid.
It sounds funny to hear all this I guess, since most of you are probably quite expert at what you do, I am also very expert at what I do but being adept at this technology was not the case. I certainly hope that changes as I press reset and start from the beginning much as you all probably did in the past.
I have had some contact in messages here too and I wanted to include those folks (you know whom you are) in my kudos too, I think the people here are really superb. I hope to make contributions here too some day when I have become more competent. Thank you all again.

This is almost a post about how cool the Creality Ender 3 is for a very low-end printer. I put it together quickly, got the slicer working under VMWare (linux) instance of Windows 7 and have been transferring gcode files to the printer via microsd card. It is very slow but mostly reliable if I print with the object lying flat. If I get any height on something eventually it seems to break loose from the bed and is ruined. My idea (so far) seems to be paying off. I am learning the basics, I hope. I can't wait to get the LM printing soon. I have printed several objects on the Ender 3 and am currently printing a Jetson TK1 case for one of my GPU. I have to make 3-more after this one if it goes well. The Ender 3 has been printing the bottom half of the case for 10-hours so far.

Well tonight I configured sl1c3r to work with the Tevo LM. I am currently printing an object and it's working well.

I wanted to say in my earlier post I thought I had help from someone here but they disappeared on me. Today I finally realized the only problem I had was the Z-Axis offset. I was able to resolve this last (minor) issue.

I am also running sl1c3r under vmware image of Windows 7 under Linux and just transferring the gcode via sd card. I wish I could get Cura working with the LM. I hope to work on that soon then I can use Linux native version.

I also bought a second Creality Ender 3 I really love those cheap but fantastic little printers. I have been printing a ton of things like Jetson GPU cases and pegboard tool holders on that low end printer (My workbench is becoming so organized now, heh.)

If anyone needs help getting LM working from someone with my limited experience just let me know. I have only printed a couple of small things on the LM today but that will change soon I have great plans!

I am sure anyone who knows anything would probably agree with me that the LM is not a beginners printer. I was a rank beginner and I was lacking in basic knowledge. My limited experience with the Ender 3 helped me to tackle the LM and get it printing finally.

Oh for anyone who wants to know about Z-Axis offset it seems all you really have to do is set it to 1.7 in your startup gcode in whatever slicer you use and then dial it in from there. It simply worked for me at that value. I did a careful build so was very lucky that everything calibrated so I knew that the LM was functioning well.

After such a long time with so many failures with the LM I Have given up. Now the thing won't power up. I have a bunch of hotend spare parts including several complete hotend (thermistor, heater, tube, block, nozzle, heatbreak) and one complete hot end assembly with everything except BLTouch. I have a ton of extra nozzles. I am going to miss this printer because of the large build capability but I do not miss dealing with Tevo, the lack of support, the lack of spare parts anywhere near North America, the lousy wiring harness to the hotend, the poor documentation and the poor quality control.

I have two Creality Ender 3 printers that once you replace the plastic parts that break seem to be rock solid and crank out print after print but much slower of course and much smaller parts.

Anyway my LM was really solid for about 6-months then the hotend kept clogging. I ended up replacing it with a third party hotend while waiting for parts from China and when those came I immediately installed the replacement hotend and then tried to power up. It won't power up and the voltage meter reads 21.4 (confirmed with a DVM.) This is the last straw for me. I waited over a month for parts and now this. I did all the basic troubleshooting but now nothing will power up and I am going to sell this unit. If you want to buy it contact me. I will not list it anywhere for awhile while I try to examine all my options but if you don't read that I have disposed of it here I still have it. In the image I attach, the extra parts are all in the bag lying on the bed, and the cardboard box is the new complete hotend sans BLTouch assembly from Tevo. Make me an offer and come get it.